iPad 2 Adhesive Strips

Mon problème

Old iPad 2, battery long since dead and won't hold a charge. Otherwise in good shape so I wanted to replace just the battery.

Ma solution

Getting the iPad open was the hardest part, I used a heat gun and ~130 degrees seemed to do the trick. My biggest issues was with the digitizer cable on the left side. I was not very careful, got ahead of the instructions and sliced the ribbon to, umm, ribbons. The rest of the repair was tedious but doable. When the glue is hard use heat as suggested. Replacing the battery and putting everything back was a breeze in comparison. I'm waiting for the new screen/digitizer to complete the repair, but that should be minor at this point.

Mon conseil

Read the whole guide, follow each step, and don't use more pressure to get anything out or heat to get anything loose than needed.

Mon problème

The iPad I worked on I had already fixed the digitizer on once. The second time was the same issue. Broken digitizer. But this time it was bad to the point that I didn't need to go about heating up the glue. It had large holes in it and looked like it was stepped on.

Ma solution

At first... Badly. It took a lot longer to peel all the broken shards out of all the nooks and crannys. Then had to try and clean out the glue and get the smudges off of the LCD. All that work and then I started realizing by the way the LCD was seating in the iPad that the aluminum frame had been bent or warped. I ground down some of the sharp edges so the bezel would lay flat and the screen would be able to fit in. It all fit... Kinda but then when I went to turn it on and test it out the screen just flickered and went out again.

I ended up buying a new bezel (broke the one that was in it at some point. and buying adhesive for it. The bezel I bought from a local store because I wanted to get it done quickly and had to go there for a company device I was having repaired. It came with adhesive already on it and I think that really helped the reinstall.

Back to the nonworking screen. I ended up pulling everything apart and re-seating everything down to the battery. It took a bit longer but it felt like it just wasn't making a connection somewhere. I used some qtips and nail polish remover (diluted acetone) to clean the connections. I usually use this to clean off processors when prepping them for new heat sinks and that seamed to do well. I put all the innards back in and tried to give the frame a slight bend back into a good shape. It didn't really work so I proceeded anyway. I put the bezel in and with the adhesive it worked extremely well. It wasn't trying to jump out of the groove or cling to the LCD cable or anything. I put the LCD back in and used a sterile alcohol wipe to clean off the dust and gunk that had accumulated on it from it being exposed through the shattered digitizer, then dried it and rubbed out any streaks with a glass cleaning cloth.

Reinstalled the digitizer and added more adhesive in the areas that the warp of the frame would be a problem. It stuck pretty well but I had to keep it under a stack of textbooks to really get a good bond.

Mon conseil

It may not seem like much and may seem a little scary but grinding down the sharp edges on the frame from being dropped on concrete or other hard surfaces really helps with utilizing the little bit of space it adds for the digitizer, as well as lowering the possibility of cutting yourself or breaking a shiny new digitizer.

Secondly, removing everything may seem excessive and like a waste of time but if it has excessive amounts of broken glass it's a good idea to do it the first time and make sure you get everything seated and reseated without any shards or dust lodged in the terminals.

Mon problème

Large fissure on from the upper left corner to the lower left corner, and broken glass.

Ma solution

iOpener kit gives you what you need to open up a ipad for presumably most repairs.

The demonstration video works well because the glass itself is intact. If like mine it is in poor condition be prepared to spend a long time scraping off shards.

It's not that the glass is easy to shatter, it's the fact the glue is so strong if you don't loosen it up enough it's only going to get worse.

I only got cut once!

Mon conseil

During the prying off stages i managed to severe both the wifi antenna as well as the right GPS module. The guide here states to be careful around the wifi antenna. It doesn't communicate why though...

The cable conecting both the wifi and the right GPS are glued onto the front panel. In these two areas you want to approach from the edge of the iPad and push inwards pressing up against the inside of the glass. Sliding just outright cuts the cables.

Mon problème

Microphone wasn't working at all. Apple wanted me to buy a new iPad (which is ridiculous).

Ma solution

At "Step 29" I encountered a problem which I was not prepared for. The tiny plastic retaining clip that holds the little ribbon cable to the main circuit board went "PINGGGG!" and popped right off. Due its size and peculiarities, it took me more than an hour to put it back on.

It is shown being pried up here: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Be ever-so-careful when you perform this step!

Other than that, things went very very smoothly. It felt like I was defusing a bomb. Removing the glued-together outer layer was a frightful experience, although it was made MUCH easier thanks to the iOpener.

When I restarted my iPad, the front-facing camera was distorted/malfunctioning, but I just powered the iPad down and re-started it and everything was fine.

Apple wanted me to shell out $250 for another iPad, but I got the job done for about $50 (including postage!)using parts from iFixit.

Mon conseil

IF YOUR RIBBON CABLE CLIP POPPED OFF, THEN READ THIS!

Be careful - oh so very very careful - opening the little retaining clip that holds down the ribbon cable to the main circuit board. If you get it back on, you'll need a magnifying glass, tweezers, nerves of steel, and the patience of a Titan to get it back into place again.

Hint: When re-attaching the retaining clip (if it popped off like it did in my unfortunate case), you must attach it in the "open" position (popped up), and with the ribbon cable NOT plugged into the little retaining socket (be sure you unplugged the ribbon cable).

Then you'll notice that there are *two* little rows of gold pins: An upper row and a lower row. You'll also notice that the little clip has a bunch of tiny holes on it. Those holes must be aligned *carefully* with the upper row of pins (the row furthest from the aluminum body of the iPad). This will not be easy, so d-e-l-i-c-a-t-e-l-y kepp on trying. You may have to do this 20 or 50 times before everything lines up right, unless you have a magnifying glass and the hands of a surgeon.

Once those holes are aligned, try to push the retaining clip onto that upper row of pins. If you are lucky, it will verry gently "snap" with a delicate action back onto the place whence it came.

If it happened the way it happened to me: May god have mercy on your soul. Be patient! It came off, so surely it can go back on. Man-handling this operation may result in bending the pins or causing other problems. If you feel frustrated, take a break for 5 min and psych yourself up to be patient and gentle, then return to work.

Furthermore, you should note that although it is tiny, there is definately a "top" "bottom" "left" and "right" side to this tiny little plastic part. There is another ribbon cable at the bottom right of the inside of your iPad which is identical to this one. That cable is still attached, so don't disturb it. Instead: Look at that one CAREFULLY under magnification, and you will see a little "groove" will be visible atop the securing plastic piece once it is in the "closed/down" position. Keep that in mind and think it through, and you'll be able to see which way to orient the little piece while you struggle to align and re-attach it.

It came off - and unless you break it or bend the pins or something, it WILL go back on. Take heart! I feel your pain!

Mon problème

Pushing the home button had no results unless it was pushed very hard

Ma solution

The new parts ordered were installed without concern. After cleaning off the glue strips, I temporarily installed the digitizer screen and the home button still did not function as expected. Made some measurements and found that the two pins that are on the charge assy were not contacting the home button control board. The two angled screws from the charge harness were removed. A piece of black tape was used under the charge harness to lift it slightly higher. Parts were reinstalled and it then functioned as expected.

Mon conseil

Make sure to totally clean off all old glue strips. Also clean off old glue residue the best you can. This good prep will insure good bonding of the digitizer screen to the ipad housing. Also make sure all smudges are cleaned off the LCD screen and inner digitizer screen before final installation. Good luck.. This procedure is very easy if you just take your time.

Mon problème

I needed to replace the bezel under the glass on my ipad 2. Of course iFixit had exactly the part I needed and all the requisite instructions as well. You guys are marvelous!

Ma solution

Since I was the one who repaired the broken glass before, taking it off again and replacing the bezel was no problem.

Mon conseil

Use a heat gun, not a hair dryer, and watch out for those WiFi antennae.

Mon problème

Battery Not Holding Charge

Ma solution

Tools worked past my expectations. Took my time,FOLLOWED INSTRUCTIONS CLOSELY, and the repair went VERY well.

Mon conseil

IN ALL HONESTY, your shipping charge of 31.00 stinks. I've shipped packages, same size and weight for ALOT LESS. That REALLY TARNISHED an otherwise STELLAR experience, and if its UPS your blaming....use someone else. I would have even waited longer to get the package rather than paying 200 dollars for tools and getting whacked for 31.00 shipping. That ruins the chance for "NEXT TIME"