Introduction

If there is any incorrect information please let me know or if you feel like you want to add to this guide then by all means feel free to do so!

If anything is broken with your mouse then I would recommend getting a new one as the parts are hard to acquire.

If you have decent soldering skills and know how to get the parts you need then feel free to make a guide!

The left and right mouse buttons are Omron switches.

I'm not sure what switch the middle mouse button uses. It looks like a generic surface mounted micro push button switch.

CAUTION!!!

BE CAREFUL.

Be PATIENT and WORK SLOWLY as you disassemble.

There are delicate parts inside the mouse.

There are ribbon cables which tear very easily.

I am not responsible for damage to your device as a result of this guide.

Let's begin! First, flip it over.
  • Let's begin!

  • First, flip it over.

  • Find two Torx screws. Use a T6 Torx driver to unscrew these. I used a small flat head screw driver to unscrew these because I did not have a T6 Torx driver.

T7 torx fits better

acessoigor - Réponse

BE CAREFUL WITH FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER! Alternatively open it bare handed. DO NOT SEPARATE THE TWO HALVES TOO WIDE YET AS THERE ARE DELICATE RIBBON CABLES CONNECTING THE TWO HALVES!
  • BE CAREFUL WITH FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER! Alternatively open it bare handed.

  • DO NOT SEPARATE THE TWO HALVES TOO WIDE YET AS THERE ARE DELICATE RIBBON CABLES CONNECTING THE TWO HALVES!

  • Push down where I am pointing out here. It should come apart fairly easily.

  • To open it bare handed, hold M65 with USB cord running straight downwards and force top surface of M65 upwards with your palm then pull M65's rear edge upwardly with your "hooked" fingers of the same hand.

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BE GENTLE! Wiggle the front of the mouse and gently pull the top half towards the back. SLIGHTLY LIFT THE TOP HALF ABOUT 5mm!
  • BE GENTLE!

  • Wiggle the front of the mouse and gently pull the top half towards the back.

  • SLIGHTLY LIFT THE TOP HALF ABOUT 5mm!

  • There is a ribbon cable and a power cable attached to the top and bottom.

  • SLOWLY! Wiggle the top ribbon cable out of its slot.

  • On the power cable, grip the plug itself and not the wires. Pull the power cable from the bottom.

  • YAY! You got them apart!

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If you wish to go any further, please do so at your own risk. I have not gone further than this. There are two screws that hold the PCB in place. One is longer than the other. The SHORT one goes to where I am pointing. The long screw holds down a grounding wire. Move the wire out of the way as you take out the board. There is a ribbon cable that I am pointing at which you can pull out. There are some multi-colored wires that are plugged into the board. Wiggle it out. Move it to the side when you take the board out.
  • If you wish to go any further, please do so at your own risk. I have not gone further than this.

  • There are two screws that hold the PCB in place. One is longer than the other. The SHORT one goes to where I am pointing. The long screw holds down a grounding wire. Move the wire out of the way as you take out the board.

  • There is a ribbon cable that I am pointing at which you can pull out. There are some multi-colored wires that are plugged into the board. Wiggle it out. Move it to the side when you take the board out.

  • Now lift the PCB out along with the scroll wheel. There should be some more screws which hold the metal to the plastic. Undo those if you want to.

  • The sides come apart. You must take the mainboard out in order to take the sides off. There are two latches for the left side and four on the right side. The left side also has two screws securing it to the rest of the body.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

19 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Brett

Membre depuis le 21/07/2014

681 Réputation

1 tutoriel rédigé

18 commentaires

Dude, thank you so much for posting this. I broke the scroll wheel and I used this to disassemble the body to get it. If you could post a guid in how to actually fix the scroll wheel for anyone else that would be awesome.

Noble Two Six - Réponse

Has anyone tried to disable the scroll wheel clicking? If so, did it work? I need to do this.

Xe Roy - Réponse

Great guide! I only had a little bit of trouble reassembling it. The top part is hard to "click back" into the rest of the body. I finally did it, but couldn't notice what made them snap together.

I'd note something else too: I detached the TOP of the ribbon cable and it was a pain to attach it back, as you have to hold the 'lid' too and holding everything is awkward. What made it easier was to remove the PCB fixed by 2 screws in the 'lid', then attach the ribbon cable and then screw the PCB back into place.

Cheers!

P.S.: Xe Roy, you might have to unscrew the body PCB to lift it from the rest of the body. Else the scroll wheel is stuck and impossible to remove.

brunotvrs - Réponse

It's at the front, in-front of the left and right clicks, 1 latch in-front of each mouse buttons, like the ones on the side panels. Sliding the top part forward in place and then snapping on the back kinda helped.

Boa Drago -

Can't believe that this $70 "premium" gaming mouse uses an el-cheapo tact switch for the middle button. Looks like their casing design meant they couldn't cram another microswitch in there.

No wonder I keep seeing reviews and comments that the middle button click is failing.

Since I use middle-click near constantly, I've switched back to my $9 MS Wheelmouse Optical from 2008... I've had to turn the mouse acceleration up somewhat, it only does 800 dpi. But the middle button is at least a proper microswitch. Say what you like about their software, MS know how to commission good peripherals.

Adrian Wilkins - Réponse

I got one of these mice because I found them available "refurbished" for $39. I really like this mouse a lot for it's tracking, the sniper button, and the premium feel of the button switches - I don't know if the switches are actually long lasting/quality, but, I do know that I like the combination of light touch and tactile click feedback to these buttons.

critofur - Réponse

i think the laser on my m65 has gone. anyone know whether i can simply buy another laser part to replace the old one? thanks.

kam chowdry - Réponse

same for me, i can right click and left click but it wont move or anything

kyce hall -

Thanks for this guide, my wheel was starting to scroll funny. Turns out there was a sizable bundle of cat hair wrapped around the shaft, and also strewn about elsewhere in the casing. A whole can of air and several Q-tips later, and it's as good as new. Well, except for the middle button, but hey, who doesn't have a problem with that on this mouse?

Matthew Sweger - Réponse

I used this to clean my M65 RGB as it had a bunch of gunk near the side buttons and under the scroll wheel. I didn't pay attention to the ribbon cable orientation but seeing as my mouse it not fried I can assume that everything is fine. Great guide, had you not posted this I would never have known how to open this thing.

Ryan Grobe - Réponse

Works great! Thanks dude! I would have never seen that seam in the back for the two halves like that - in step 2!

My mouse wheel was umping the scroll position all over. I opened it with your instruction, force-sprayed some 35% alcohol 65% water into the counter mechanism, used compressed air to remove the excess and dry it, reassembled it, and it works like new!

15 minutes later I’m here thanking you from japan!

tesselator - Réponse

Thank you so much! I had a problem with the sensor not working, and I took it out and cleaned everything!

XtiC - Réponse

I recommend using this screwdriver (https://goo.gl/NAvtzB) or something like it (just search 9 piece mini screwdriver on amazon or something) as I got it for £1 and it available in UK equivalent of “dollar store“ which we call pound shop and £1 is like $1.38 right now it is one of those products you see that many brands use as their own product and it has the right torx screw head in it (at least I think it is as it fits) also use the smallest flat head for prying the plastic off but (using same orientation of mouse in the picture of this guide where he is prying the top) do it to the right SIDE (not to the right of the bottom side) and do it near to the corner it works better for me on the Corsair M65 Pro RGB FPS which has the same body shape as well as buttons in the same places and screws are same as well the difference is that it has a new logo and has RGB lighting inside which shouldn’t be affected at all by following this guide as NON of the lights get in the way unless you tear it apart further

ZAHID SHABIR - Réponse

i have managed to break the outher shell (left mouse button, left side cover and right side cover) where can i buy those parts? it still works because its just the plastic thats broken, thanks in andvance

Kristian A Halle - Réponse

These parts are not available to buy. You could try looking on eBay or 3D print the parts you need.

Brett -

Hi everyone. Thanks for the guide it was easy to clean the mouse. I’ve been experiencing a problem with the right click because it is not working properly (sometimes I can’t scope on several FPS) so does anyone knows where I can find the replacement part ?(I can change it myself with my soldering tools).

Thanks.

Leonardo Forero - Réponse

I found a way to fix the scroll problem (atleast for now,still needs extended testing),if you find a way to elevate the scroll wheel on the side of the middle mouse button with something soft-ish, and so that it still spins and clicks the middle mouse button. it seems to contact properly and then it scrolls normally. i actually just used a small bit of metal wire, bent around the switch. it sacrfifices my middle mouse but what evs

purple lynx - Réponse

I just need help with the left clicking. It just feels out of place and it feels like I have to click on it harder that I used to.

jettangeles - Réponse

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