Introduction

L'ajout d'un second SSD dans votre iMac présente de nombreux avantages : amélioration de la vitesse, espace de stockage supplémentaire et moins de soucis lors de l'installation de nouveaux logiciels. Utilisez ce guide pour en installer un en utilisant un boîtier de disque dur pour baie optique.

Collez une ventouse dans chacun des deux angles supérieurs de la vitre. Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre (comme illustré dans les première et deuxième photographies). Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée (comme illustré dans la troisième photographie).
  • Collez une ventouse dans chacun des deux angles supérieurs de la vitre.

  • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre (comme illustré dans les première et deuxième photographies).

  • Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée (comme illustré dans la troisième photographie).

  • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux.

  • N'utilisez pas les ventouses pour porter l'écran. Si l'une d'entre elles se détache, l'écran risque de tomber.

  • L'emballage d'origine de votre iMac est un endroit sûr pour conserver votre écran. Sinon, vous pouvez aussi étaler une serviette sur une table et poser l'écran dessus.

You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

Nick Caron - Réponse

Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

jtowner - Réponse

Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

Eddie - Réponse

Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

Frank303 - Réponse

I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

Allen Borza -

My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

Awolf - Réponse

Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

Stuart Bloomfield - Réponse

I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

gordonhamachi - Réponse

Soulevez doucement la vitre perpendiculairement à l'écran LCD pour dégager les broches de montage en acier fixées en dessous de la vitre, le long du bord supérieur. Retirez la vitre en l'éloignant du bord inférieur de l'iMac et mettez-la de côté. N'utilisez pas les ventouses pour transporter le panneau en verre - Si l'une ou l'autre des ventouses venait à se détacher, le panneau pourrait tomber et se briser.
  • Soulevez doucement la vitre perpendiculairement à l'écran LCD pour dégager les broches de montage en acier fixées en dessous de la vitre, le long du bord supérieur.

  • Retirez la vitre en l'éloignant du bord inférieur de l'iMac et mettez-la de côté.

  • N'utilisez pas les ventouses pour transporter le panneau en verre - Si l'une ou l'autre des ventouses venait à se détacher, le panneau pourrait tomber et se briser.

  • Après avoir déposé prudemment le panneau en verre, assurez-vous de retirer les ventouses, car la force de succion pourrait à la longue briser le verre.

  • Lors de la réinstallation, veillez à nettoyer soigneusement l'intérieur de la vitre et la face avant de l'écran LCD, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

Lau - Réponse

do you still have this panel?

Alpha Dimension -

Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

ganesh - Réponse

I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

Jay Gillibrand - Réponse

I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

Daniel -

The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

dtsai2 -

I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

shippe - Réponse

I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

Alex Reynolds - Réponse

You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

Roberto Blandino - Réponse

Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

matteoslataper -

I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

Amy C - Réponse

Hi Amy,

To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

Arthur Shi -

Retirez les huit vis Torx T10 par lesquelles l'écran LCD est fixé au boîtier extérieur.
  • Retirez les huit vis Torx T10 par lesquelles l'écran LCD est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

Be careful not to lose these screws when they are unthreaded. Use tweeters to grab them before removing the Torx driver.

Gavin McMorrow - Réponse

To prevent screws close to the magnets to leave your screwdriver, use a straw to encapsulate your screws. This is especially useful when putting them back. See pictures for details: http://cjoint.com/?CLCpN1nmK4M and http://cjoint.com/?CLCpOy6aF9G

Marc66 - Réponse

That was a brilliant idea. After trying for ten minutes without luck, the straw technique helped immensely.

victorpoupet -

Avec précaution, posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface plane. En raison des tolérances étroites, vous devrez utiliser un outil fin recourbé pour soulever l'écran hors du boîtier externe. Nous nous sommes servis d'un trombone plié, comme illustré dans la troisième photographie. Utilisez un outil fin recourbé pour soulever un côté du bord supérieur de l'écran hors de son cadre extérieur en acier.
  • Avec précaution, posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface plane.

  • En raison des tolérances étroites, vous devrez utiliser un outil fin recourbé pour soulever l'écran hors du boîtier externe. Nous nous sommes servis d'un trombone plié, comme illustré dans la troisième photographie.

  • Utilisez un outil fin recourbé pour soulever un côté du bord supérieur de l'écran hors de son cadre extérieur en acier.

  • Après avoir soulevé un côté du bord supérieur de l'écran, maintenez-le hors du cadre tout en soulevant l'autre côté à l'aide d'un outil recourbé.

  • Lorsque vous soulevez le bord supérieur de l'écran hors du boîtier, n'allez pas trop loin, car les deux composants sont toujours reliés par plusieurs câbles-rubans courts.

Be very careful not to hook the Bluetooth antenna cable while you're lifting the display out. It's hiding under the top left corner of the iMac. I managed to snag mine with the paperclip and ended up pulling the antenna cable clean out of the tiny gold connector. Some very precise reconstruction work was required to get the cable seated in the connector again and back up to full signal strength.

Ben Davies - Réponse

My iMac has a couple of bits of mesh tape at the top. I don'r see these mentioned?

andy pugh - Réponse

À l'aide d'une pince, retirez le câble de synchronisation verticale de son emplacement sur la carte de rétro-éclairage, près de l'angle supérieur gauche de l'iMac. Sur certains iMac, vous ne trouverez pas de câble ruban, mais quatre petit fils très fragiles. Lorsque vous vous servez de la pince, faites attention de ne pas déchirer l'un des fils.
  • À l'aide d'une pince, retirez le câble de synchronisation verticale de son emplacement sur la carte de rétro-éclairage, près de l'angle supérieur gauche de l'iMac.

  • Sur certains iMac, vous ne trouverez pas de câble ruban, mais quatre petit fils très fragiles. Lorsque vous vous servez de la pince, faites attention de ne pas déchirer l'un des fils.

I had a friend with me so all I did was disconnect the vertical sync ribbon cable, and I had my friend hold up the LCD for a couple of minutes as I swapped out my HDD with an SSD, thus avoiding steps 6-9 and going straight to step 10.

Gabe - Réponse

Can I purchase this cable separately?

mamedovmarat - Réponse

After removing the display, I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the machine, different loudness for different levels of display brightness. Reading up on it, it seems that the problem is with the vertical sync cable (and this is a well-known issue with Apple with new machines, too). So be careful when reinserting this cable!

Adam Hintz - Réponse

I noticed that the vertical sync cable seems to have been updated since the guide was produced. It now has a more normal plug and socket and 'regular' wires instead of the flat ribbon cable shown here. I used narrow nosed pliers instead of tweezers to unclip it as I was afraid that just pulling on the wires could have broken them.

Eoin - Réponse

WARNING: Take extreme care when removing these wires as mine were not a ribbon cable but individual tiny wires. I removed them cautiously with tweezers OK but when re-inserting, one of the wires came off. Obviously someone had been in here before.

Peter Sinclair - Réponse

Hi Peter, did you manage to get a replacement? Let me know please - Thanks Paul

Paul Randall -

be sure to keep this cable, because it does not come with a new display!

Julian - Réponse

I changed the HD yesterday and when I reinstalled the Display I had the same problem then Peter Sinclair. I started to panic first. But then I reinstalled the Pannel without re-insterting the cable at all and nevertheless my iMac works perfectly since 14 hours now. I'm really confused!

muggooz - Réponse

My vertical sync ribbon cable had two of the four contacts bent back, it may even have been like this originally. I straightened them out as best I could under a magnifying glass, and after reinserting, everything is working OK. Seems this cable is not particularly critical. Also, I used needle nose pliers for this and the other connectors, I can't get enough grip with tweezers.

Andrew Crabb - Réponse

Tweezers didn't work for me due to the angle and lack of grip (they kept slipping and I was concerned about squeezing any harder). I just used my fingers to grab the connector as close to the connection as possible for both removal and insertion and it worked just fine. I have big hands and meaty fingers, so this method should work fine for anyone.

David - Réponse

I have a late 2009 27" Mac and did something similar to Gabe, but being alone, after unplugging the vertical sync cable, I used two wooden chopsticks to hold the screen at about 45° and without disconnecting any more cables I could quite easily access the Superdrive to remove and replace with a 240GB SSD with help from a caddy from TheNatural2020, which required a tiny modification.

All in all it took me about 45 minutes and was much easier than expected. It is working at a negotiated SATA speed of 3 Gbps Some report a speed of only 1.5 Gbps, but from what I had read before purchasing the Crucial M500, going for a 6 Gbps SSD is worse on a late 2009 Mac as it has to default to the basic SATA 1 speed of 1.5 Gbps, while the slower 3 Gbps SATA II drive works at 3 Gbps. The time from the Apple logo till the sign-in screen on startup has gone from 33.5 seconds to 8.5 secs, and my internal hard drive is a 7200rpm

I am VERY satisfied and it was much easier than expected.

Adam Griggs - Réponse

Thanks for this suggestion! I didn't have chopsticks, but was able to use some pens instead. The pens are shorter, but still provided sufficient room for my tools to get to the screws holding the HD. I noticed there are two large, thumb size, indentations in the frame under the LCD that the pens fit into nicely. Since I did the repair by myself, this really sped up the process and I was able to complete the HD swap and memory addition in about 25 minutes. (I had planned 2 hours. Happy, happy, happy!)

barry -

I also did this step and then went straight to step 10. I installed a SSD so I didn't do step 15 either. You can use this to control the fans: http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

Overall, great guide! Thank you.

Sam Im - Réponse

Adam's technique with the chopsticks works great. I didn't even have to disconnect the V-sync cable. Mine wasn't plugged in for some reason. I guess the LCD works without it.

Ashok - Réponse

This was for me the hardest step when reassembling the iMac.

I had to open and close the iMac several times as each time some of the cables was not properly connected: The vertical sync, the display data cable connector, even the Bluetooth antenna was off at some point and I had to re-open every time! Finally I left the vertical sync cable disconnected as with each operation it was in very bad condition and impossible to plug in. I'm amazed at how bad designed is this cable and how easy is to break it! It's nice to know that they improved it, poor technicians.

I'd like to replace it in the future but I really don't know how or if it is available in its more up-to-date version… I didn't feel like dissasembling everything again to see how is it connected.

carolaclavo - Réponse

The portion of this little cable that plugs into the receptor is stiffer than the rest of the cable, but it is very slippery. For me, it was also very tight. Tweezers and fingers just slipped right off of it. Fortunately, I didn't tear the cable. I ended up using needle-nose pliers wrapped with cellophane to get traction. It was also very difficult to reinsert. By raising the display to the maximum level with all the other cables connected, I was able to push it in with my fingers.

Also: if you get any smudges on the display, a lens pen works great to remove them. I used a swiffer to pick up dust.

Michael Morris - Réponse

I opened the case as far as I could without stretching this cable and used my fingers to get it. The end of the ribbon where it connects is stiff, so you can grab it there. There's not connector; the stiff part just slides in and out. Getting it back in is a pain, but if you get the perfect angle it slides back in without much force.

Jay Gillibrand - Réponse

That's what I ran into with my friends iMac as well. it was just (very carefully slid into place. a piece of celotape held it in as we put the pieces together.

Wizbang FL -

Pull the cable AWAY from the connector. Some cables have a plastic connector cap attached to the end. This one does not. The cable just slips out as if pulling a stick of gum out of a package. I used my index finger and thumb, no tweezers needed.

Cameron Moll - Réponse

I also plugged it out with my fingers, got more feeling in them. Put it in the same way. There is no barb or something on the cable, so this should be quite safe when not using too much force. And I also used chopsticks to keep the display up, just like an engine hood.

Oliver Hahn - Réponse

This ribbon had me flumoxed for a while. I had expected to have to remove the terminal from the circuit board. All you need to do it gently pull on the ribbon directly and it will come out of the terminal.

Stuart Bloomfield - Réponse

I followed the above tips and used chop sticks as struts to support the internal screen at an angle, whilst I worked on the hard drive. Allowed me to skip the remaining cable removal steps and go straight to step 10. And I didn’t need an extra set of hands to hold the screen whilst I worked.

Stuart Bloomfield - Réponse

Faites pivoter l'écran hors du boîtier extérieur, suffisamment pour débrancher le câble d'alimentation du rétro-éclairage LED de la carte de rétro-éclairage.
  • Faites pivoter l'écran hors du boîtier extérieur, suffisamment pour débrancher le câble d'alimentation du rétro-éclairage LED de la carte de rétro-éclairage.

Step 7 MAY be better done prior to Step 6. 7's cord comes tight before there is enough lift room to get to Step 6's plug in my opinion.

Gavin McMorrow - Réponse

Maybe it's just me but I couldn't see how to unclip this. It felt like it should just be a case of squeezing both sides and then pulling, but it was so stuck I was concerned about damaging it.

If anyone has a little more detail on this step it'd be useful.

Chris - Réponse

The connector has a simple locking mechanism, essentially a ridge on the top where the thumb is placed in the picture. If you push down gently there the latch raises and you can pull the cable out.

Rob Purcell - Réponse

I found step 6 the most difficult of the whole procedure. The way I unclipped the connector was from the front, with my thumbnail. There's a little ridge over which the cable clicks tight. If you use your thumbnail to lift the connector over that ridge, you can then easily remove the cable. (Maybe iFixit should that advise to the guide, since especially step 6 is a bit too concise imho.)

Daan - Réponse

Agreed with previous comment :You should be very careful after step 5 - it may be necessary to do the step 7 before the step 6 because the connector on the motherboard for the LCD data is very very fragile. I broke it and found that a lot of people broke it as well .

pierre - Réponse

Exercez une pression sur les deux bras du connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le libérer de la prise sur la carte mère.
  • Exercez une pression sur les deux bras du connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le libérer de la prise sur la carte mère.

  • Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran hors de la prise sur la carte mère.

  • Faites très attention lors de la déconnexion du câble, le connecteur du câble et la prise de la carte mère étant très fragiles. Lorsque vous reconnecterez le câble, utilisez le moins de force possible.

I just spent 100€ at the Mac shop to learn this: when reattaching the display data cable be sure you get the ends right. Even if the cable fits perfectly the other way round, the computer won't even start.

Julian - Réponse

NOTE!  The internal video connector on the logic board is quite fragile - proceed with extra care when disconnecting. There are many postings of Mac users who have broken the display connector and are then left with quite a challenging proposition to replace it. Here is the link to one such thread: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.p....

thorjurgen - Réponse

Ditto. It is very fragile. Mine pulled off the motherboard while doing the upgrade (all else went well). Problem occurred because I tried to do the drive swap without removing the display. I had someone hold it up for me. Display is heavy and you can't feel the tug of the cable. Disaster.

The repair is beyond most computer repair folks. Found these guys http://www.dttservice.com/ and they are great. For $195 they fixed it in 24hours.

Dave - Réponse

I ran into a big problem with step 7: my display data cable did not have any sort of plug to connect to the logic board. Instead, the cable seemed to be soldered onto the board or simply run under this small copper-colored band. There was no plastic plug to detach/attach.

I was afraid to pull on the cable and break something, so I simply had a friend hold up the LCD and I replaced the logic board without removing the display. I'm not sure what I would have done if I needed to replace the drive.

Has anyone else run into this issue where the display data cable doesn't have a plug? And are there alternative ways to detach it safely?

fronesis - Réponse

@fronesis - on my iMac it wasn't possible to pull out the connector at first. There was a small rectangular metal clip which locked the connector in place - this had to be pulled up first, and then the connector came out extremely easily.

johnrowell - Réponse

I'm having blackscreen issue and this cable is my main suspect. Here is my post regarding this issue.

Black screen after SSD install (suspect is monitor cables)

Mads - Réponse

you will break your computer if you follow this step during the reassemble!

it’s not possible to reconnect the display with the board because the cable is way to short to maneuver the connector in place and you have almost no sight - you’ll not see what you’re doing! the better approach is disconnect the cable on the display as well (since the connector here is more robust) and insert the connector on the board as a first step without having the display in front of your face..

mike - Réponse

Soulevez l'écran afin de libérer un espace suffisant pour débrancher le câble du capteur thermique LCD de la prise sur la carte mère.
  • Soulevez l'écran afin de libérer un espace suffisant pour débrancher le câble du capteur thermique LCD de la prise sur la carte mère.

  • Si le ventilateur tourne trop vite après la réparation, vérifiez la connection du câble du capteur thermique LCD. La prise du capteur thermique est extrêmement fragile. Soyez très prudents lorsque vous reconnectez le câble.

Be very very careful when you pull out this plug as it is extremely fragile and also reattaching the LCD thermal sensor plug and very very gently ensure that the pins are actually going into the connector before you push the plug in. i damaged the top part of the plastic housing which then made it difficult to insert the plug into the connector. I can't believe how easy it was to damage this connector!! If you don't attach the LCD thermal sensor plug correctly the Mac fans will go crazy at full speed. It took a good 15 minutes to get the pins to finally go into the plug and they can bend easily.

j74656 - Réponse

This was too tight to get with my hands. I used needle nose pliers to grab the plastic connector and it popped right out. I need pliers to get it to snap back in too. The wire itself if very thin so be sure to only grab the connector.

Jay Gillibrand - Réponse

The connection of this cable is moot (and to the main drive too) if you purchase HDD Fan Control Monitor software that uses the SMART tech inside the drives to set the fan speeds. It was rather expensive but worth the $35

Gary Kimes - Réponse

Avec précaution, tirez l'écran vers le bord supérieur de votre iMac et sortez-le du boîtier extérieur.
  • Avec précaution, tirez l'écran vers le bord supérieur de votre iMac et sortez-le du boîtier extérieur.

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Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 par lesquelles le lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier extérieur.
  • Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 par lesquelles le lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

Is it possible to use the DVD drive after installing the SSD, or is there no space left?

Joel - Réponse

Débranchez le connecteur du capteur thermique du lecteur optique de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.
  • Débranchez le connecteur du capteur thermique du lecteur optique de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.

This step is not necessary. I have problems with the pulling out, and found that it's not necessary to out it in this case.

Steve - Réponse

Agreed. Leave it plugged in and peel the buffer tape and temp sensor off the optical drive assembly while it's still in the computer.

John Lavenia -

What problems did you have?

Toni Marmol - Réponse

Don't do that! It's not necessary to pull the sensor cable out. And it cost me an hour to find out that it was this sensor cable and not the LCD sensor cable that made the fans spin at 3000+rpm. The less sensor cables you remove, the easier to find the culprit if you stumble into fan issues.

bhager - Réponse

Insérez un spudger entre le connecteur du lecteur optique et le lecteur optique. Faites tourner le spudger pour séparer doucement le connecteur du lecteur optique de ce dernier, puis débranchez le connecteur du lecteur en vous servant de vos doigts.
  • Insérez un spudger entre le connecteur du lecteur optique et le lecteur optique.

  • Faites tourner le spudger pour séparer doucement le connecteur du lecteur optique de ce dernier, puis débranchez le connecteur du lecteur en vous servant de vos doigts.

Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

Roman Quenin - Réponse

Can the superdrive connector cable (possibly just SATA and SATA power bundled) be used for SSD? I wanted to replace the superdrive completely with an SSD, and thus having in total 2 SSDs and one HDD inside the iMac. Thanks in advance.

Krisna - Réponse

There is another SATA connector on the back side of the logic board for an SSD.

Neal Sofge - Réponse

Soulevez légèrement le côté gauche du lecteur optique et dégagez-le du côté droit du boîtier arrière.
  • Soulevez légèrement le côté gauche du lecteur optique et dégagez-le du côté droit du boîtier arrière.

  • Lors du rassemblement, faites attention aux deux trous dans la plaque frontale du lecteur optique. Il faut que deux petits et courts dispositifs en plastique s'enclenchent correctement dedans.

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Décollez la portion de la bande d'aluminium encadrée en rouge, en laissant le reste collé au support du lecteur optique en plastique noir. Il n'est pas nécessaire de décoller toute la bande adhésive EMI du support du lecteur optique.
  • Décollez la portion de la bande d'aluminium encadrée en rouge, en laissant le reste collé au support du lecteur optique en plastique noir.

    • Il n'est pas nécessaire de décoller toute la bande adhésive EMI du support du lecteur optique.

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Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 de chaque côté du lecteur optique (quatre vis au total). Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 de chaque côté du lecteur optique (quatre vis au total).
  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 de chaque côté du lecteur optique (quatre vis au total).

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Avec la pointe d'un spudger, appuyez sur les petites pattes de fixation du support du lecteur optique pour les dégager des logements prévus à cet effet sur le dessous du lecteur optique. Faites pivoter légèrement le support par rapport au lecteur optique. Tirez sur le support pour le séparer du lecteur en prenant soin de ne pas arracher les pattes de fixation.
  • Avec la pointe d'un spudger, appuyez sur les petites pattes de fixation du support du lecteur optique pour les dégager des logements prévus à cet effet sur le dessous du lecteur optique.

  • Faites pivoter légèrement le support par rapport au lecteur optique.

  • Tirez sur le support pour le séparer du lecteur en prenant soin de ne pas arracher les pattes de fixation.

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À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, décollez le morceau de ruban mousse qui recouvre le capteur thermique du lecteur optique. À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites doucement levier sur le capteur thermique pour le décoller de la bande adhésive par laquelle il est fixé sur le capteur optique.
  • À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, décollez le morceau de ruban mousse qui recouvre le capteur thermique du lecteur optique.

  • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites doucement levier sur le capteur thermique pour le décoller de la bande adhésive par laquelle il est fixé sur le capteur optique.

  • Si un disque ou tout autre objet est coincé dans votre lecteur optique, nous avons un guide pour vous aider à le réparer.

Do I have to reattach the optical drive thermal sensor to the SSD?

Ignatius Lee - Réponse

Yes, just stick it onto the SSD and cover it with the buffer. Better than leaving it loose in the computer, or worse omitting it altogether.

John Lavenia -

looks like you cracked the edge of that sensor :)

Ivan Ivanov - Réponse

Replacing an HDD was easy as PIE compared to this, the replacement Superdrive's holes did not line up the same way the original did. The original was a Sony drive, the replacement was made by H-L. But the shape was the same. By holding the bracket in place with my hand I was able to worm two screws in sideways until the pressure lined it up, then I was able to get the rest of the bracket screws back in. I had to do that while making sure the little tabs in the front of the drive were orientated properly - And not messing up the silver tape much. After that it was all relatively easy. The instructions were spot on and for the exact iMac (11,1) I was working on. The replacement Superdrive works perfectly despite the Brand change, I installed Bootcamp to make sure- It read and installed from my Windows 7 install DVD, NO Problem. I set the monitor screen in place without screwing it all back in just in case I had to open it back up again, not needed. Thank you SO much for your easily understood instructions.

Jonny V - Réponse

I had it easy with replacing dead optic drive in 2011 27" with a 2010 27" optic drive so did not even have to take the optic drive out of its holder. Now I have an internal dvd super drive again. Thank you ifixit.

Michael - Réponse

Retirez les trois vis Phillips n°0 3 mm du boîtier de la baie optique.
  • Retirez les trois vis Phillips n°0 3 mm du boîtier de la baie optique.

Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

Roman Quenin - Réponse

plug in the back of the ssd

Roman Quenin -

I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

However I have NOT confirmed this.

Allen Borza -

If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

EkDor - Réponse

I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

Cristian Pizarro - Réponse

The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

benja.mcg - Réponse

En commençant par le côté gauche, ouvrez doucement le boîtier de la baie optique. Continuez de tirer sur les deux moitiés du boîtier jusqu'à ce qu'elles se séparent. Continuez de tirer sur les deux moitiés du boîtier jusqu'à ce qu'elles se séparent.
  • En commençant par le côté gauche, ouvrez doucement le boîtier de la baie optique.

  • Continuez de tirer sur les deux moitiés du boîtier jusqu'à ce qu'elles se séparent.

This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

Cristian Pizarro - Réponse

Retirez les deux vis Phillips n°0 3,0 mm par lesquelles la façade est fixée sur le boîtier de la baie optique.
  • Retirez les deux vis Phillips n°0 3,0 mm par lesquelles la façade est fixée sur le boîtier de la baie optique.

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Soulevez la façade en plastique noir hors du boîtier de la baie optique. Vous n'aurez plus besoin de la façade ni des deux vis Phillips qui la maintiennent en place. Mettez ces deux pièces de côté si vous souhaitez réinstaller la façade dans le boîtier. Remontez le boîtier de la baie optique sans la façade, en réutilisant les trois vis Phillips 3,0 mm d'origine afin de ne pas l'endommager.
  • Soulevez la façade en plastique noir hors du boîtier de la baie optique.

    • Vous n'aurez plus besoin de la façade ni des deux vis Phillips qui la maintiennent en place. Mettez ces deux pièces de côté si vous souhaitez réinstaller la façade dans le boîtier.

  • Remontez le boîtier de la baie optique sans la façade, en réutilisant les trois vis Phillips 3,0 mm d'origine afin de ne pas l'endommager.

Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

Nic Johnson - Réponse

Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

Jeff Dickson -

So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

Ron Lockhart - Réponse

Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

olafgoy -

My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

Kevo -

Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

Monkeyrebirth -

I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

nickmalmquist -

Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

EkDor - Réponse

I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

Keith Mewis - Réponse

Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

Alex -

Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

Walter Poole -

I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

Marc - Réponse

Libérez la cale en plastique du boîtier de disque dur pour baie optique en appuyant sur l'un des clips présents à chaque extrémité et sortez-la du boîtier. Libérez la cale en plastique du boîtier de disque dur pour baie optique en appuyant sur l'un des clips présents à chaque extrémité et sortez-la du boîtier.
  • Libérez la cale en plastique du boîtier de disque dur pour baie optique en appuyant sur l'un des clips présents à chaque extrémité et sortez-la du boîtier.

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Assurez-vous que les connecteurs du disque dur sont orientés vers le bas avant de placer ce dernier dans le boîtier. Insérez doucement le disque dur dans le boîtier à l'emplacement approprié. Tout en tenant fermement le boîtier en place d'une main, appuyez sur le disque dur avec l'autre main pour le raccorder aux connecteurs du boîtier.
  • Assurez-vous que les connecteurs du disque dur sont orientés vers le bas avant de placer ce dernier dans le boîtier.

  • Insérez doucement le disque dur dans le boîtier à l'emplacement approprié.

  • Tout en tenant fermement le boîtier en place d'une main, appuyez sur le disque dur avec l'autre main pour le raccorder aux connecteurs du boîtier.

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Une fois le disque dur en place, réinsérez la cale en plastique tout en maintenant le disque dur contre le bas du boîtier. Rebranchez les câbles que vous avez retirés du lecteur optique d'origine sur le boîtier de la baie optique.
  • Une fois le disque dur en place, réinsérez la cale en plastique tout en maintenant le disque dur contre le bas du boîtier.

  • Rebranchez les câbles que vous avez retirés du lecteur optique d'origine sur le boîtier de la baie optique.

Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

nickmalmquist - Réponse

Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

Erik Sawaya - Réponse

It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

Graziano Nora - Réponse

Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate  from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

Peter Bull - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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11 commentaires

Not terribly difficult, though I did install an SSD in my son's 20" iMac. Used the OWC data doubler bracket, which, of course, isn't designed for the iMac. I had to bend some metal in order to make it work at a very basic level, but otherwise didn't run into any real roadblocks.

Joseph Bonito - Réponse

I used OWC Data Doubler. Fit no prob.

John Lavenia -

Success, and not as difficult as I thought. Getting the glass out (27") was a bit nervous but it's strong and the suction cups work well. The display itself has a heavy frame around it so also is strong. I used a large soft artist's brush to dust the display and inner glass. I carefully used needle nose pliers on the cables and connectors, couldn't get enough grip with tweezers.

Andrew Crabb - Réponse

I have iMac late 2009 (EMC 2374) and the optical bay fits well into it. I installed Samsung SSD 850 PRO 256 Gb with a documented speed 520/550 (write/read). But unfortunately it seems because of ODD (optical disk drive) link I've got only 250/270. Anyway I'm pretty happy, because I merged SSD with my hybrid HDD 2 Tb (150/150) and now have 2.25 Tb Fusion drive with about x2 speed. My advise - don't buy expensive SSD with high speed if you want to link it through optical bay - the speed will be cut anyway.

evgeniyfedoseev - Réponse

The real matter is the interface that is an old 3GB/s instead of a recent 6GB/s that limit the performance of SSD drive

Simone Richelmy -

Question: would it be faster/better to mount the SSD on the original HD bay? Is that a faster/better SATA interface?

macmai -

I completed this in less than 30 minutes, but I too had problems securing the optical bay enclosure to the SSD caddy. I had to squeeze them together about 1/16th of an inch to get the screws to line up. Other than that, it was easy squeezy lemon peasy.

aegrant - Réponse

Really easy. I would suggest not to disconnect the sensor for the optical drive from the motherboard. Really fiddly to try and reconnect.....and difficult to find where it went! Rather just peel the sensor carefully off the optical drive and then replace it on the solid state drive case with some insulating tape. It has to be connected on my Mac late 2009 otherwise the cooling fan runs all the time.

With the solid state drive in this iMac now flies! Wonderful

Peter Shahinian - Réponse

Yesterday I changed the SuperDrive for a SSD following this guide without any problems. All perfect. Thanks from Spain.

Sweet Moon - Réponse

I just did this successfully, however I had two minor issues and one major issue:

The minor - I put the temperature sensor on the wrong side of the SSD enclosure - no big deal, just check ahead of time which side of the enclosure will be facing you when you put the enclosure back into the mac.

The major - I cracked the display data cable connector on the logic board :| I have a lot of experience with computer DIY, so it's not my first rodeo, and I barely managed to do this successfully. The connector on the logic board for the 30-pin ribbon cable is soldered on poorly, you must NOT apply a lot of pressure! The ribbon cable sits flush with the logic board so there is not much space for work, which will frustrate you, but please be super careful with this. Make sure that you depress the side-tabs of the ribbon cable so that you don't apply excess pressure unnecessarily. Just do it slowly and patiently. If a mate can help you hold the screen you'll have the benefit of using both hands on the cable.

mils - Réponse

What SSD do you recommend to insert in there?

Eliott Hauteclair - Réponse

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