Introduction

Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez le cache charnière de votre MacBook - la pièce arrondie en plastique sous l'écran LCD - s'il est cassé ou tout simplement pas assez brillant à votre goût.

À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites pivoter la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.
  • À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites pivoter la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.

This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.

jonathan55 - Réponse

I found this to be the easiest upgrade I have ever done. New HDD and memory in ten minutes, start to finish. The hardest part was getting the #8 Torx screwdriver. Booted from the OSX disk, formatted the drive, (use the GUID scheme) and we're screaming along.

This is a great guide.

steve52 - Réponse

Brilliant guide from you guys. I tackled a cd drive replacement on my Dad's MacBook a little while ago, but my skills were really tested when I accidentally stood on my laptop - new LCD needed. A visit to Ebay (don't forget duties when importing!), and this LCD Display replacement guide are all I needed. Yes it took a while (2-3 hours), but as long as you remember you need to do everything backwards then it's straightforward. I wouldn't have known where to start without this guide so thanks for creating them.

Laurence

lglew - Réponse

The guide is fantastic and the Airport Extreme Card upgrade took me less than an hour to complete. It wasn't very difficult. Some pointers: read the entire guide before undertaking the project; keep the screws from each step separated in labeled containers; buy a spludger if you don't already have one; keep a tweezer handy for the tiny screws; and take your time separating the keyboard from the computer so as to not crack/break the plastic bezel.

bvancott - Réponse

Quote from jonathan55:

This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.

Nonsense! Even a non-technical person could follow this guide and do the job in 15 minutes. Anyone who's done any work on any kind of computer will be able to do this in 5-10 minutes.

eflyguy - Réponse

Quote from eflyguy:

Nonsense! Even a non-technical person could follow this guide and do the job in 15 minutes. Anyone who's done any work on any kind of computer will be able to do this in 5-10 minutes.

i agree, me and my friend (both) 14, took this underway to clean out the inside of my computer for recreational purposes, piece of cake!

keeganmerom - Réponse

This nontechnical person took about two hours to get the optical drive out and stripped down enough to take it apart and look for fragments of a CD. and then reassemble it. I'm sure other people are faster than me, they usually are, but newbees should set aside the time just in case. Also, jonathan55 is right about those screws, keep track of them and the other in which they come out as there are several different lengths.

adamorth - Réponse

Umm, that's the ORDER in which they came out. Sheesh.

adamorth - Réponse

Great guide. Very easy to follow. I put in a replacement hard drive in less than 30 minutes.

prax5487 - Réponse

Extremely useful guide. Just replaced the topcase/trackpad/keyboard assembly in ~15 minutes. I've had a moderate amount of previous experience with computer repairs, but even so, anyone should be able to do this project successfully.

snharris - Réponse

The replacement takes about 10 minutes from start to finish. The longest part is the OS Backup/Restore...

BTW, you might want to know before you begin: if you have a similar size backup hard drive that you originally have in your computer, you should "Restore" the contents of the original hard drive onto it before starting this manual, using the Disk Utility. (Yes it's called Restore. You restore the original to the backup. lol.)

Your other alternative is to get an external enclosure for your SATA Laptop hard drive that has a Firewire port on it.

After the swap, you connect either the backup drive or the original drive in the external enclosure using Firewire, then boot while pressing the Option key. The backup drive will show up (possibly as the only boot option.) (In fact, now that I think about it, you might not even have to press the Option key, since the external drive should be the only boot option unless there is something in your DVD drive...)

Boot to the backup drive, then "Restore" its contents to the new internal hard drive using the Disk Utility. You should be set with your original OS, settings, etc.

Gyuri Ordody - Réponse

Overall I'd say this was easy if you've taken apart any computer-like device before. Total time was a little less than hour for me, and the most difficult part was getting all of the tiny screws back in; fan installation was a breeze.

paul46 - Réponse

There is a simpler way of installing the operating system than described in the notes. First do a time machine backup to a new external drive. This will force a total back-up and prevent problems of restoring everything as it was. Follow steps 1-8. Instead of quitting disk utility as described in step 9, go back into disk utility menu and on the very last line you will see the option to restore the operating system and all its files via the time machine option. It was a breeze, and I did not have to deal with steps 10-28

newsletter68 - Réponse

Quote from jonathan55:

This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.

I am so grateful for this website! This is the first time I have opened a computer and the instillation is now done, 45 minutes later.

The key, as many others have written is the organization of the screws. It was very helpful for me to print out the individual pictures of the steps to follow. I then laid the screws, as I took them out, on the printed pictures that I placed on a table.

The key is a little mindfulness...relax... and it is fun! Enjoy!

juztino - Réponse

This is a terrific guide. Thank you very much for providing it.

Some of the screws may be different sizes in different 'books. Keeping them separated, or measuring as you remove them, helps. Also, a few of the rubber spacers, etc are not the same in mine as in the photos, and some connectors also differ. I found it helpful to take notes at each Step when they differed from the picture. A guitar pick helps when trying to get the top case free.

RichR - Réponse

Quote from jonathan55:

This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.

Not quite sure what this guy is smoking, but he didn't share with the class. The hard drive replacement takes less than 5 minutes and is absolutely within the ability of anyone over the age of 7.

paul9 - Réponse

I'm not a super techy guy, but this as much easier than I expected it to be. Just make sure you've got the Torx and mini-screw drivers handy.

BillB - Réponse

The instructions were excellent and the job of removing & replacing the hard-drive went like clockwork. A novice could handle this task easily with modest mechanical skills. Someone previously suggested putting aside several hours to do this..... I disagree as I replaced the HD & both RAM chips in approx. 10 minutes & I was pacing myself. As far as hardware is concerned, I found a total of 7 screws to deal with! You don't have to be too anal to keep track of 7 screws especially when 3 of them are captive in the memory cover. Unless you are mechanically inept, go ahead and do this simple job!

RAIB - Réponse

Quote from jonathan55:

This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.

Several HOURS?!? It took me 10 minutes.

Scott - Réponse

I just finished this installation, and it went very smoothly. Your instructions were excellent, as were your step-by-step pictures. I couldn't be happier....I saved alot of money because of IFixit, and really appreciate it!

Amy - Réponse

Muchas Grazias, i did the steps to replug the isight cable. And its working again. Maybe doing all the steps was a bit overdressed for my problem. My only tool was a knife. Now only two parts aren´t reassemled: a little screw and a magnet. Thanks a lot again, the camera is working again!

seb - Réponse

This was an easy installation. I am NOT a tech type, just a mom who wants a better hard drive.

I installed the new hard drive into the MacBook and moved the old hard drive into the new housing in less time than it took my husband to put the baby to bed. Yeah, his bedtime routine with her takes longer than mine, but it's still less than half an hour.

I just cleared off part of the dining room table, put down a towel to keep all the parts from rolling around and followed the step-by-step directions provided here. Sooo easy. Almost too easy.

I look forward to my next MacBook repair, and I will absolutely come back to ifixit.com to get the parts and learn how to do it. I'll be here for support on my iPhone and iPods, too.

momside - Réponse

Just did an LCD replacement on a white old model MacBook. Followed this guide to a the letter. IT WORKS! I'm commenting on my fixed mac now. Excellent guide. Things I would suggest are to read through everything first and keep a note of screws labeling etc. you'll be grateful on the return trip. Also watch the routing of the cables when working on the lcd housing and right hand side of the lower laptop. Not only have I fixed my problem. I've realized that customizing macs and doing your own repairs is relatively straight forward if you follow instructions.

This website really empowers the apple product user. Shop around for parts, ebay is a good place to start. I got my screen for £65 (UK).

Final word take your time and if you are replacing LCD screens expect it to take up to 6 hours.

Also if you are replacing Samsung LCD screen it has a test port (on left back) which most replacements do not. Don't worry about it, it is nothing to do with a Mac.

thanks again ifixit.com!

alex Bayly - Réponse

Quote from jonathan55:

This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.

Best way I've found to keep track of the screws is to use an ice cube tray. Just make sure you don't knock it over by mistake ;P

maccentric - Réponse

thursday: made the order on ifixit.com for ldc, spudger, size 0 screwdriver.

monday: items delivered to my place in NY.

monday night: new LCD installed.

thank you ifixit. parts ordered were perfect LCD crisper than the original one. spudger came in handy. this manual was spot on.

thanks again.

-j

NY, NY.

jose - Réponse

The instructions were more than helpful. Very well written. I just need to be better about following them. It was a easy process, it took me about 20 minutes all together. The only thing I ran across it was putting the keyboard back in place. Make sure it's all line up before you start putting screws back in place.

pdeoliveira - Réponse

Thanks a lot for this guide. It would have been much more difficult without knowing what to do.

When I was done, the LCD backlight flickered somewhat occasionally. The owner said that had not happened before. I cleaned the LCD plug by blowing with a straw into it but the flickering still happened. Dunno if this was related to my work.

darsie - Réponse

Doe's anybody know if its possible to install a second generation logic board with the core 2 duo in the first generation MacBook?

off course I'm looking to upgrade my first gen MacBook 1,1 using the newer generation MacBook logic board, so may be one of you know whether this process is possible...

Thank you :-)

Dudi - Réponse

One note on the fan replacement, or really any MacBook repairs. If you fire your MacBook up and nothing happens but the sleep light is blinking then make sure your memory is seated correctly. I freaked out after installing my new fan but it turns out that all I needed to do was reseat the memory.

jeffbacher - Réponse

THANK YOU for that great guideline! I did it step by step with my iPhone next to the workbench and it went well. One hour to open, one hour to close for me as a complete beginner.

annokluss - Réponse

Jonathon55 was referring to the whole pram replacement. I tore apart an ibook years ago and it had less steps then this and I am quite technically adept. Going to pay for apple store to replace, not going to waste half a day doing.

Bill Conners - Réponse

Thank you for this guide. I appreciate the time you took to photograph this and document it.

Don't take notice of the I did it in 10 minutes brigade, replacing the HDd might take 10 minutes but the other jobs will take longer.

Also those that are dissing the author re screws etc. The screws are different lengths. Take the commentators hint and use an ice cube tray, label it 1, 2, 3, .... and put the screws in there. THe difference if 1-2 mm is enough to have a slightly long screw go through a component and kill it.

Again thanks.

Flugan - Réponse

Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.
  • Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.

Ajouter un commentaire

Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes espacées régulièrement sur la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie.
  • Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes espacées régulièrement sur la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie.

  • Les vis sont intégrées au capot métallique de la mémoire.

  • Lorsque vous remplacez le compartiment de la batterie, utilisez une spatule pour réinsérer la mousse derrière la paroi arrière pour que la batterie puisse être convenablement placée.

I found the Phillips #000 screwdriver better suited to this task. Additionally there is an issue with scredriver clearance in the battery compartment. You need a stubby screwdriver or something short to get a good angle on the screws.

cknausen - Réponse

While many guides here are good, this one is way more complex than needed. You can replace the inverter very easily by prising off the plastic bezel around the display, removing the three screws from the hinge cover, then prising off the hinge cover to expose the inverter. That is all that is needed.

geekraver - Réponse

Reference: "prising off the plastic bezel around the display, removing the three screws from the hinge cover, then prising off the hinge cover to expose the inverter. That is all that is needed."

Unfortunately putting it back an shred the cables to the airport card..

Hugh1234567689 - Réponse

Saisissez le capot mémoire en forme de L, faites-le glisser vers la droite et retirez-le de l'ordinateur.
  • Saisissez le capot mémoire en forme de L, faites-le glisser vers la droite et retirez-le de l'ordinateur.

Ajouter un commentaire

Retirez les 3 vis suivantes :
  • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes :

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 11 mm au milieu du boîtier

    • Deux vis cruciformes #00 de 14,5 mm.

  • Si les vis adhèrent au boîtier, vous pouvez utiliser un tournevis aimanté pour les sortir.

  • La plus courte de ces vis est celle du milieu.

why is this in the guide? there's literally no reason to do this

Anthony B - Réponse

Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie :
  • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie :

    • Deux vis cruciformes #00 3 mm (A1181 a trois vis de 3 mm et une de 4 mm.)

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 4 mm du côté droit.

  • Quand vous revissez ces vis, appuyez doucement sur le boîtier inférieur pour aligner les trous des vis.

When putting the laptop back together, consider doing Step 5 before Step 6. The lower case will then line up on its own.

Otherwise, even pushing on the lower case, these screws are %#$#@$ for putting back in place.

IronStrikes - Réponse

Great advice, IronStrikes. I reversed steps 5 and 6, and the screws went in like a charm.

snharris - Réponse

When I reinstalled, I put the screws in the upper holes, which are for the battery cover. If you don't want to back track, be sure to use the lower screw holes at this step.

akinderman - Réponse

on my version the longer screw was in the middle

oliviermolody - Réponse

On my version the 3 mm screw (smaller of the three screws) was in the middle, which differs from the image.

Brian Boudreau - Réponse

How do you get these screws out? I can't get the screwdriver to be level enough with the screws to twist them at all.

brotato - Réponse

i use iPhone screw driver

resurrected - Réponse

You could also use a small ratcheting bit driver and bit, or an angled ratcheting bit driver. Good bits and a ratchet can sometimes allow you to apply more torque than you could with a screwdriver. Useful if like me you might have “accidentally” overtightened something the last time.

tthorntonuhl - Réponse

Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 6 mm de chaque côté de la paroi droite du compartiment de la batterie (pas celles qui sont les plus proches du connecteur de la batterie).
  • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 6 mm de chaque côté de la paroi droite du compartiment de la batterie (pas celles qui sont les plus proches du connecteur de la batterie).

loner on the left on mine

RichR - Réponse

The screws are 6.3 mm

Jens Himmelreich - Réponse

Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes #00  de 3 mm indiquées de la paroi avant du compartiment de la batterie : En partant de la gauche, retirez les 2e, 4e, 7e et 9e vis.
  • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes #00 de 3 mm indiquées de la paroi avant du compartiment de la batterie : En partant de la gauche, retirez les 2e, 4e, 7e et 9e vis.

Count carefully here. If you don't remove the right ones, you won't be able to separate the keyboard assembly later.

Art Vandelay - Réponse

The srews are 3.3 mm

Jens Himmelreich - Réponse

Retirez les 4 vis suivantes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur :
  • Retirez les 4 vis suivantes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 7 mm à épaulement vers l'extérieur.

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 10,5 mm situées vers l'intérieur.

    • Ne les serrez pas trop fort ; vous risqueriez de tordre le boîtier.

This screws are shouldered on my MB

Zoltan Paszinger - Réponse

Retirez les deux vis cruciformes à épaulement #00 de 5,2 mm du du côté de l'ordinateur où se trouve le lecteur optique.
  • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes à épaulement #00 de 5,2 mm du du côté de l'ordinateur où se trouve le lecteur optique.

  • Il est inutile de retirer les vis similaires présentes de l'autre côté de l'ordinateur.

The screws are 5.4 mm

Jens Himmelreich - Réponse

threads are on the tips

Igor Ratmansky - Réponse

I couldn't tighten the screws again. They kept turning. Dunno if the threads were gone or the screws didn't reach them.

darsie - Réponse

Found it necessary to remove the corner one.

Robert Wiggers - Réponse

En commençant près de l'écran et en vous rapprochant de l'avant de l'ordinateur, soulevez le boîtier supérieur en faisant levier. Il est maintenu par des clips sur le côté au-dessus du lecteur optique. Ceux-ci s'ouvriront sous l'effet d'une ferme pression de levier.
  • En commençant près de l'écran et en vous rapprochant de l'avant de l'ordinateur, soulevez le boîtier supérieur en faisant levier. Il est maintenu par des clips sur le côté au-dessus du lecteur optique. Ceux-ci s'ouvriront sous l'effet d'une ferme pression de levier.

  • Faites attention en soulevant le boîtier supérieur. On se coupe facilement le bout d'un doigt. C'est le sacrifice que les dieux Mac exigent parfois de ceux qui tiennent à exécuter leurs propres réparations.

  • Ne retirez pas complètement le boîtier supérieur, car il est encore relié à la carte mère par la nappe du pavé tactile et du clavier.

  • Si vous avez de mal à ouvrir les clips, faites attention à ne pas séparer le couvercle en plastique du boîtier supérieur de son châssis en métal.

I had a lot of trouble lifting up the right side. I had to use a great deal of force, and I hesitated for quite some time for fear of snapping the casing.

yowsa - Réponse

Danger Will Robinson!! My upper case did NOT want to come out on the right side. I just trusted to cameronmoll and kept lifting straight up. Finally, it came loose, but it wasn't easy. Meanwhile, while I was dealing with the cable -- just had to pull up a black tab hooked to it -- I somehow managed to chip the front, top edge of the upper case -- the edge farthest from the screen -- in two places, one on the right, one on the left. So, watch that edge, it is thin!

adamorth - Réponse

Regarding the right side, there is a series of 3-4 plastic snap in locks on that side along the optical drive, holding the case down in lieu of screws. It takes serious pressure to remove the snapped in pieces (just lift straight up). You should also make sure to line them up when you put the casing back on. Another picture might help show that portion better

dougyfresh - Réponse

My upper case also came off with a little difficulty. There are some plastic tabs that hold the case down (4 of them). They sorta "pinch" onto 4 little bars that are part of the upper case (note, the bars appear to be metal). I worked my upper case to the left a little and it came out easier. One of the these tabs was really tight. Note: if you do this, one or more of the tabs may stay on the upper case, you'll need to move them back in place before putting the upper case back on (pry it off the upper case with a spudger, or very carefully with a flat screwdriver as to not damage it). It will slide back into a slot on the body.

dmorrison - Réponse

Quote from dougyfresh:

Regarding the right side, there is a series of 3-4 plastic snap in locks on that side along the optical drive, holding the case down in lieu of screws. It takes serious pressure to remove the snapped in pieces (just lift straight up). You should also make sure to line them up when you put the casing back on. Another picture might help show that portion better

Nicholas Stubbs - Réponse

Regarding the right side, I found that the 4 clips slide to the left more easily that pull out. However, the front right has a bar which drops into a slots preventing pulling to the left! So ... gently lift the front right (furthest from the screen), pressing just at the front end of the optical slot to bend the faceplate at that point, then gently rock the face plate back and forwards while pulling left, so the that the four clips slide out of their retainers - presto! Remember to bend the faceplate to reassemble.

Nicholas Stubbs - Réponse

Step 11 really needs a better description. I started undoing the tape that holds the case above the optical drive slot to the metal before I read the comments and realized what I needed to do. Once you start to pull the top case up from the front, you'll reveal enough of an opening to get a spudger all the way under the metal portion of the top case next to the first snap. Once you have the spudger in, it's easy to release the snap without worrying about bending the whole topcase. Just repeat for the remaining three snaps. Once I got this technique down, it really didn't feel like I was doing anything that might damage the case.

chaos215bar2 - Réponse

By the way... don't worry if you undo the tape. It will go right back together with a little pressure. I didn't even need to go out and buy some adhesive to fix it.

chaos215bar2 - Réponse

I recently replaced the inverter cable. Now the power button doesn't work anymore.. but the keyboard and trackpad still do work. I already replaced the uppercase cable with no success. Does somebody have an answer to this problem?

milanseegers - Réponse

There are 4 plastic locks on the right side which prevent the keyboard from lifting up. They slide out easily if the keyboard is moved to the left. To move the keyboard to the left you first have to release the left and front side. On the left and front side there are metal strips that are snapped in. They should release when you push the metal strips with a spudger towards the center of the computer. We had much trouble releasing one metal snap as we didn't know how to do it.

When you reinstall the keyboard put the plastic bars in the frame at the right side of the case, then snap in the keyboard on the left and front side and finally snap the keyboard into the plastic snaps to the right. Be careful so they don't fall out before you snap them in.

A metal piece fell out of the computer. It was a shielding of a connector on the left side.

A tiny plastic disc (4 mm diameter) with a hole in the middle also fell out. I had little hope to find out where it belonged and it didn't seem too important, so I left it, but kept it in a minigrip bag. Does anyone know what it's for?

darsie - Réponse

Pull straight up on the section above the optical drive. If you slide this section out, you'll have to slide it back in for reassembly, which is harder than pushing vertically.

unthread - Réponse

There are four plastic clips above the CD slot that may come off or stay attached to the uppercase. On reassembly remove them from the upper case and locate the clips into the slots in the frame inside the lower case before lowering the upper case down into position.

James - Réponse

Be really careful! I broke the connector easily and had to replace it.

It is out of stock on iFixit. I found it there: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MSH3...

poissonjerome - Réponse

Tout en tenant le boîtier supérieur d'une main (par le bas ou le haut), débranchez le connecteur de la nappe orange du pavé tactile et du clavier à l'aide d'une spatule. Veillez à faire levier entre la prise noire et le connecteur blanc. Il se peut que vous deviez faire levier des deux côtés pour l'enlever correctement.
  • Tout en tenant le boîtier supérieur d'une main (par le bas ou le haut), débranchez le connecteur de la nappe orange du pavé tactile et du clavier à l'aide d'une spatule.

  • Veillez à faire levier entre la prise noire et le connecteur blanc. Il se peut que vous deviez faire levier des deux côtés pour l'enlever correctement.

  • Ne faites pas levier en haut ou en bas, mais sur les côtés.

  • Si vous rompez la nappe du boîtier supérieur lors du retrait du boîtier supérieur, sachez que vous pouvez l'acquérir en tant que pièce détachée et que nous proposons un tutoriel pour faciliter son remplacement.

It lifts straight up.

Cameron Moll - Réponse

Quote from cameronmoll:

It lifts straight up.

I'd suggest being careful and perhaps having help with step 12, as I have broken the connector piece at the end of the cable by pulling too hard/fast and having the connector stuck in the board and the ribbon dangling without purpose.

Does anybody know of a good way to repair such a ribbon, or am I stuck buying new upper case units?

o2bnited - Réponse

An extra picture or warning should be added about this... The same as you, I broke the connector. I didn't even use any force, but the pins got off the cable and now I'm forced into buying a new one. Trying to buy one from ebay as we speak. It might have been due to metal fatigue after 7 years, but it got broken none the less.

schederpetel -

The computer serial number and network IDs are on the underside of the top case (visible in the battery compartment.) In order to prevent misidentification in the future (for instance, while on the phone with Apple tech support), I print the info from the old top case on a sticker and affix it over the label on the new top case.

colleenthompson - Réponse

A lot of top case replacements are due to the front edge being broken by the bumpers on the lid of the MacBook. I stick a couple of felt dots on either side of these bumpers to absorb some of the shock when the lid is slapped shut, to prevent damage to the new top case.

colleenthompson - Réponse

I think that one extra picture should be added here. That is to say, the purpose of using the spudger (which I do suggest you should buy so that you don't risk ruining the orange cable), is to unplug a little connection. Basically your are "popping" it open. Had I known this it would have made th4e process feel a little less risky. In any case the mission was successful... Job completed in 45 minutes and my computer has wireless internet once again!!

juztino - Réponse

Be really careful. The cable comes up really easily.

Nick Cox - Réponse

Do NOT use a spudge!!! Just pull in the tab. Spudge Ruins the cable!

Oliver - Réponse

The image is misleading. Don't pry it up from the front, but from the sides. Personally I used a small flathead screwdriver, but sadly - only after ripping apart the soldering on the wire/plug.

Also, be careful to lift the white plastic plug, not the circuitboard/wire attached to it

Magnus Bae - Réponse

I'm repairing the Black version which appears to be slightly different from the picture. There is a flexible black tab on top of the connector. All I had to do was lift up the tab with my finger and pull the connector straight up.

David - Réponse

After reading everyone's comments, I used the narrow spudger and slid it around from the front to the right then the front to the left and it lifted up easily..

shewearsmanyhats - Réponse

Saisissez la languette en plastique blanc attachée au disque dur et tirez-la vers la gauche pour ôter le disque dur de l'ordinateur.
  • Saisissez la languette en plastique blanc attachée au disque dur et tirez-la vers la gauche pour ôter le disque dur de l'ordinateur.

I've done several of these without removing the optical drive, etc, and just gone directly to replacing the hinges from here.

bradleydad - Réponse

Quote from bradleydad:

I've done several of these without removing the optical drive, etc, and just gone directly to replacing the hinges from here.

How did you remove the display portion of the clamshell without dislodging the display cable?

o2bnited - Réponse

Quote from bradleydad:

I've done several of these without removing the optical drive, etc, and just gone directly to replacing the hinges from here.

Agreed! There is no need to remove the optical drive to get the LCD out at this point.You do need to remove the hinge screws and retainers, but just long enough to pop off the plastic cover to expose the inverter. You do need to support the lid assemble a bit while doing this (an extra hand is nice if available) but it only take a second to remove the inverter cover. Then I'd put the hinges partially back together with two screws and proceed with removing the LCD panel from the frame at this point. Saves quite a bit of time and headache not having to remove the optical drive and everything in the remaining steps.

Important thing about this repair is to take your time, moveslowly and be very organized with all your screws and parts. I use a multi-compartment organizer for all my laptop repairs and label each compartment with tape (ie. LCD frame, hinges, Bottom Panel, Inverter cover...) Makes re-assembly easy and no leftover screws in the end!!

GURUmicro - Réponse

Step 13 should be called "Remove Hard Drive", not "Optical Drive". The hard drive is NOT an optical drive.

Dave - Réponse

I have no need to remove the HDD. They probably suggest it so theres no data loss or something but that wont happen if the macbook has been powered off and the power supply is remove for about 2 minute. Like bradley i usually go for the hinges but usually i remove the disk drive or cd or cd rom drive. Then i unscrew all the pieces around the hinges supporting the LCD then go for the hinges. Basically thats how i replace the lcd

Cyrus Cattani - Réponse

Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes du bord avant du lecteur optique.
  • Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes du bord avant du lecteur optique.

  • La vis plus courte (3mm) se trouve du côté des barrettes RAM. L'autre a une longueur de 3,5 mm.

had trouble getting the screw on the right back in, make sure the drive is sufficiently pushed back into the case when inserting the screw

Dave Flynn - Réponse

The left screw is 3.3 mm, the right 3.8 mm

Jens Himmelreich - Réponse

Déconnectez la nappe orange du lecteur optique de la carte mère.
  • Déconnectez la nappe orange du lecteur optique de la carte mère.

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Déconnectez le câble de données de l'écran à présent visible. S'il n'y a pas de languette à tirer sur le connecteur, une spatule (spudger) peut être utile pour le déconnecter.
  • Déconnectez le câble de données de l'écran à présent visible. S'il n'y a pas de languette à tirer sur le connecteur, une spatule (spudger) peut être utile pour le déconnecter.

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Déconnectez la nappe du disque dur à présent visible (elle aussi).
  • Déconnectez la nappe du disque dur à présent visible (elle aussi).

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Décollez la bande adhésive alu entre le ventilateur et le lecteur optique.
  • Décollez la bande adhésive alu entre le ventilateur et le lecteur optique.

  • Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 8,5 mm fixant le câble de données de l'écran au châssis métallique.

The screw is 8.5 mm

Jens Himmelreich - Réponse

Be careful pulling the silver tape, it does tear rather easily

Alan - Réponse

Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran le long du bord du lecteur optique pour faire apparaître une vis cruciforme argentée.
  • Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran le long du bord du lecteur optique pour faire apparaître une vis cruciforme argentée.

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Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 2,8 mm fixant le lecteur optique.
  • Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 2,8 mm fixant le lecteur optique.

  • Il est possible que la nappe Bluetooth recouvre la vis; poussez-la soigneusement de côté avant de dévisser la vis.

  • Ne serrez pas trop cette vis lors du remontage. Vous pourriez cassez le boîtier en plastique.

  • Après avoir dévissé la vis, poussez la languette métallique vers l'arrière, en direction du ventilateur, pour détacher l'avant du lecteur optique.

That screw is covered in cables. You will have to be careful and patient

adamorth - Réponse

The screw is 2.7 mm

Jens Himmelreich - Réponse

While trying to remove the screw with no luck I've though of turning the laptop upside down and use the power of gravity, a small black plastic item fell down and couldn't figure out where is belong (see link)

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/566/353...

Any one have an idea where this belong to ?

Thanks

ahammadi - Réponse

Quote from ahammadi:

While trying to remove the screw with no luck I've though of turning the laptop upside down and use the power of gravity, a small black plastic item fell down and couldn't figure out where is belong (see link) http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/566/353... Any one have an idea where this belong to ? Thanks

IT GOES ON THE RIGHT SIDE TO COVER THE DISPLAY CABLE.BY THE RIGHT HINGE.

BILL - Réponse

Remember that the metal piece on the dvd-drive where the screw should go threw is moveable! Just move it into position with your screw-driver or the pointed end of your spudger.

maltefiala - Réponse

Replacing the optical drive screw was the hardest step of the entire procedure for me. The eyelet for the screw can't be moved into position until the drive is in place, buried under cables, and in friction against the case. Sliding it into position makes a protrusion that has to be lined up with a little notch in the case at the mouth of the optical drive.

If anyone has tips on making this go smoothly, please add; it took me probably ten minutes of gentle wiggling, removing and replacing and trying again.

gement - Réponse

Enlevez la carte de l'antenne Bluetooth, placée à droite du lecteur optique.
  • Enlevez la carte de l'antenne Bluetooth, placée à droite du lecteur optique.

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  • Dégagez la nappe du disque dur le long de l'avant du lecteur optique.

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Soulevez le bord avant du lecteur optique et faites-le glisser vers le haut et hors de l'ordinateur.
  • Soulevez le bord avant du lecteur optique et faites-le glisser vers le haut et hors de l'ordinateur.

When you put the drive back in, there is a sliding bar on the far edge of it (per perspective in photo) that goes into a notch in the computer case. The opposite end of the bar has the hole mount for a screw. So, if you're having trouble lining up that screw hole with the hole in the case, make sure the bar is sliding into place. (It's the drive screw that's covered in cables)

adamorth - Réponse

I couldn't get the optical drive screw hole under the cables (IE: eyelet which is part of the bar) to line up for about 15 minutes... Then I read your comment.

Be careful, if the eyelet doesn't line up, don't try to force the drive into position toward the opening. It's probably because the eyelet, which is not fixed, needs to be slid into position. It slides with the bar on the right side of the drive. Trying to push it in, I bent the bar slightly at the front so it would never line up properly. I gently straightened the bar and because of these instructions, understood how it was supposed to line up and fit - and it slipped right in. As long as you get the bar lined up right, you can gently push the eyelet forward and the bar will go into the slot and everything will line up properly. That is, you gently push the eyelet forward until it lines up with the screw hole.

My Mail -

Also mind the plastic grey clips that are on the "chassis". These clips are referenced in step 11 (the 1st bullet point). My clips fell out. I had no idea what they were at first or where they belonged. When sliding out the optical drive, the clips can fall out into the space that was previously occupied by the optical drive. They are easy to slide back into the "frame" of the computer. There are four of these plastic clips.

davidhoytsimpson - Réponse

Found two gray plastic pieces loose when I got the Drive out, any idea what they are, where they go and if they are important? Great site, very helpful, love you guys.

Dave Clark - Réponse

Dévissez les 3 vis suivantes :
  • Dévissez les 3 vis suivantes :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 3 mm à côté du haut-parleur droit.

    • Une vis cruciforme de 6 mm fixée à travers un trou dans un dispositif en plastique au-dessus du caisson de basse.

  • Veillez à ne pas trop serrer la vis au-dessus du caisson de basse, le plastique pourrait craquer.

there was only the subwoofer screw, other 2 appear to be missing.

zsadler13 - Réponse

Quote from zsadler13:

there was only the subwoofer screw, other 2 appear to be missing.

Stranger things have happened inside MacBooks I have dealt with. Just be glad it isn't the screws holding your desk chair together.

Brady Cabe - Réponse

Quote from zsadler13:

there was only the subwoofer screw, other 2 appear to be missing.

This guide is for the Core Duo MacBook, you may be referring to the screws which exist inside Penryn/Santa Rosa machine.

Brady Cabe - Réponse

I can't seem to get the subwoofer screw out. It's stuck. There were other tough screws but I managed to get them out. For this one, it won't even budge. I'm afraid of stripping the screw completely.

kingn8link - Réponse

Mine has only the middlw screw, no c-channel part, so it's easier!

Neo - Réponse

Retirez le haut-parleur droit de son emplacement et mettez-le de côté.
  • Retirez le haut-parleur droit de son emplacement et mettez-le de côté.

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Avec une spatule, faites délicatement levier pour ouvrir la fente en plastique blanc, glissez le profilé métallique vers la droite et enlevez-le de l'écran.
  • Avec une spatule, faites délicatement levier pour ouvrir la fente en plastique blanc, glissez le profilé métallique vers la droite et enlevez-le de l'écran.

c-channel is missing

zsadler13 - Réponse

Quote from zsadler13:

c-channel is missing

Your computer is missing the c-channel?

Brady Cabe - Réponse

Quote from brady:

Your computer is missing the c-channel?

This guide is for the Core Duo MacBook, you may be referring to the Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook which does not have the c-channel.

Brady Cabe - Réponse

Avec une spatule (spudger), déconnectez soigneusement le câble du microphone de la carte mère. Travaillez d'un côté à l'autre et faites sortir lentement le connecteur de sa prise en le remuant.
  • Avec une spatule (spudger), déconnectez soigneusement le câble du microphone de la carte mère. Travaillez d'un côté à l'autre et faites sortir lentement le connecteur de sa prise en le remuant.

  • En tirant sur ce connecteur verticalement, vous pouvez briser la prise sur la carte mère. Ce connecteur doit être retiré horizontalement en tirant doucement le câble du microphone vers l'écran et en travaillant avec une spatule entre le connecteur et la prise.

VERY IMPORTANT!!!! The plug backs out of its jack along the plane of the logic board, away from the front of the computer, toward the screen. YOU DO NOT PULL IT STRAIGHT UP FROM THE BOARD! The photo is ambiguous, and I ended up ripping away from the logic board the jack the microphone cable plugs into. I doubt I'll be able to solder it back on again, so bye-bye internal mic.

mikacooper - Réponse

penny wise, dollar foolish ... socket came clean off the logic board -- this needs a heavily magnified illustration

flammny - Réponse

Soulevez le câble noir du haut-parleur droit noir d'une main et enlevez le câble du microphone du clip en métal argenté juste au-dessus de la fente de la RAM de droite.
  • Soulevez le câble noir du haut-parleur droit noir d'une main et enlevez le câble du microphone du clip en métal argenté juste au-dessus de la fente de la RAM de droite.

Step 29: In order to deroute this cable, is it necessary to unscrew the screw below the subwoofer?

marcelthemac - Réponse

There is no clip in my MacBook 2009 and the mic cable is black, not silver and is easy to deroute.

Ari Arnold - Réponse

Dégagez le câble argenté du microphone et le câble noir de données de l'écran des onglets fixés en bas du caisson de basse.
  • Dégagez le câble argenté du microphone et le câble noir de données de l'écran des onglets fixés en bas du caisson de basse.

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Dévissez l'unique vis cruciforme de 3 mm, qui fixe la mise à terre du câble de données de l’écran, se trouvant juste au-dessus de la carte Bluetooth .
  • Dévissez l'unique vis cruciforme de 3 mm, qui fixe la mise à terre du câble de données de l’écran, se trouvant juste au-dessus de la carte Bluetooth .

The screw is 3.2 mm

Jens Himmelreich - Réponse

Débranchez les deux câbles d'antenne de la carte Airport et le câble noir de l'inverseur de la carte mère. (Tirez verticalement sur les trois.)
  • Débranchez les deux câbles d'antenne de la carte Airport et le câble noir de l'inverseur de la carte mère. (Tirez verticalement sur les trois.)

(carefully 'lift up' on each antenna cables and on the black inverter cable to to disconnect them from the logic board)

Tony R - Réponse

there is a "sponge" covering the connection.

zsadler13 - Réponse

seems my laptop has 3 antenna cables... a black, blue and grey cabled one. Does this mean I have a 'Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook' and do I need to look at a different guide..?

John098 - Réponse

Quote from John098:

seems my laptop has 3 antenna cables... a black, blue and grey cabled one. Does this mean I have a 'Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook' and do I need to look at a different guide..?

on the back cover there should be in small print that should tell you the model type of ur mac. its right between the two screews and shouldnt be that hard to find unless you somehow scratched it off

yukio - Réponse

%%@^. I ripped out one of the antenna's connectors. Any idea how to fix this?

maltefiala - Réponse

Make sure to pull vertically on the inverter cable to remove it from the motherboard.

Denis DeFlorville - Réponse

The Inverter has a piece form on top.

Neo - Réponse

I had also a third cable but fortunately also replaced it with a correct display, so: no problem! Model: early 2007.

annokluss - Réponse

Retirez les 2 vis suivantes de la charnière de droite :
  • Retirez les 2 vis suivantes de la charnière de droite :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 6 mm sur le côté gauche de la charnière.

    • Une vis cruciforme de 10 mm sur le côté droit de la charnière.

  • Ôtez la charnière droite de l'ordinateur .

There is a 3rd screw on the right hinge mount also.

zsadler13 - Réponse

Quote from zsadler13:

There is a 3rd screw on the right hinge mount also.

This guide is for the Core Duo MacBook, you may be referring to the Penryn/Santa Rosa MacBook which has 3 screws here.

Brady Cabe - Réponse

One more screw here

Neo - Réponse

Maintenez l'écran d'une main tout en retirant les vis de la charnière gauche.
  • Maintenez l'écran d'une main tout en retirant les vis de la charnière gauche.

  • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la charnière gauche :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 6 mm avec un plus petit diamètre à droite.

    • Une vis cruciforme de 6 mm avec un plus grand diamètre au milieu .

    • Une vis cruciforme de 10 mm à gauche.

  • Ôtez la charnière gauche de l'ordinateur.

Take a good look at where all the cables and wires are routed in the next couple steps! You might even want to take a few pictures. They must be routed exactly the same way going back together. Either stuff will not fit, or you'll get intermittent video.

bradleydad - Réponse

Saisissez l'écran complet par les deux côtés, soulevez-le et ôtez-le de l'ordinateur.
  • Saisissez l'écran complet par les deux côtés, soulevez-le et ôtez-le de l'ordinateur.

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Les étapes suivantes sont les mêmes pour le MacBook blanc et le noir.
  • Les étapes suivantes sont les mêmes pour le MacBook blanc et le noir.

  • Avec une fine carte en plastique, détachez les clips fixant le cadre de l'écran et l'ensemble écran. Il y a cinq clips le long du côté gauche du cadre de l'écran.

  • Ne prenez pas une carte irremplaçable en cas de dégât. Les clips sont difficiles à ouvrir et la carte peut se plier et se casser, ce qui la rendrait inutilisable.

When you go to replace the bezel, look at the back side and disconnect any of the little snap-on tabs that may not have stayed in the metal bracket around the LCD. On a white MacBook they were grey, about 4mm x 8mm. They work best if you put them into the metal frame separate from the bezel and then snap the bezel into them.

The best way to remove them seemed to be by placing my thumb over one edge (so they didn’t fly off) and prying with a thin, flat screwdriver flat against the bezel tab.

mike s - Réponse

Hello I've seen a video on Youtube where the guy skipped all the previous steps and got to the inverter without taking the screen off. Seems like it saves a lot of time and potential problems, since I have never done anything like this. Does anyone recommend doing it? I see it's more accessible to just try to get to the inverter without taking the screen off first.

Miquel - Réponse

Continuez à détacher les clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran complet.
  • Continuez à détacher les clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran complet.

  • Faites attention quand vous travaillez près de la caméra iSight.

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Ensuite, détachez les cinq clips fixant le cadre de l'écran sur le côté droit.
  • Ensuite, détachez les cinq clips fixant le cadre de l'écran sur le côté droit.

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Soulevez le cadre de l'écran par le haut et détachez les clips le long du bord inférieur du cadre de l'écran avec votre carte en plastique. Veillez à ce que la carte se trouve entre le châssis en métal autour du panneau LCD et le cadre de l'écran et ne touche pas le panneau LCD même.
  • Soulevez le cadre de l'écran par le haut et détachez les clips le long du bord inférieur du cadre de l'écran avec votre carte en plastique.

  • Veillez à ce que la carte se trouve entre le châssis en métal autour du panneau LCD et le cadre de l'écran et ne touche pas le panneau LCD même.

  • Après avoir détaché tous les clips de retenue, soulevez le cadre de l'écran et ôtez-le de l'ensemble écran.

A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

WillyDavidK - Réponse

This was a very helpful tip. I made the mistake at first when reading your note, thinking that the gray clips were supposed to be on the bezel, not the display, but quickly corrected that.

For anyone confused, the bezel is the thin plastic part surrounded the display, and the display of course houses the LCD.

Another note:

The easiest way to remove the clips from the bezel is from the side and pry up. To reattach them to the display, put one end of the clip in first, and then use tweezers to poke in the other end of the clip.

Quote from WillyDavidK:

A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

MC25 - Réponse

Parfois, lors du retrait du cadre de l'écran, les clips de retenue, qui devraient rester pris dans les fixations de l'écran LCD, partent avec le cadre de l'écran. Suivez cette étape et la suivante pour retransférer les clips sur la fixation de l'écran LCD. Avec une spatule en métal ou un autre outil fin, faites doucement levier pour enlever les clips en plastique gris des attaches moulées dans le cadre de l'écran. Un tournevis plat de 0,8 mm peut être utile pour cette étape.
  • Parfois, lors du retrait du cadre de l'écran, les clips de retenue, qui devraient rester pris dans les fixations de l'écran LCD, partent avec le cadre de l'écran. Suivez cette étape et la suivante pour retransférer les clips sur la fixation de l'écran LCD.

  • Avec une spatule en métal ou un autre outil fin, faites doucement levier pour enlever les clips en plastique gris des attaches moulées dans le cadre de l'écran. Un tournevis plat de 0,8 mm peut être utile pour cette étape.

  • Faites attention car les clips sont en plastique fin et donc fragiles.

I found that an easy way to remove the clips from the bezel is to use a plastic knife (knife as in the utensil). Sliding the knife under one of the clip's long sides and prying upwards worked well for me. Thanks MC25 and WillyDavidK for the tips, they worked great!

Iron Kettle - Réponse

The plastic clips deform easily, making it difficult to reuse them. The tabs on the back of the bezel that fit into the clips also break off easily.

If any of the tabs or clips are omitted, the bezel will not lie flush nor will it hold the cables that run beneath it in place.

Wear gloves while wrangling with the white bezel—like the white topcase, the matte-finish plastic is very porous and quickly gets grubby.

CG Hughes - Réponse

Insérez l'extrémité la plus longue du clip de retenue dans le trou  creusé dans la fixation de l'écran LCD. Avec la spatule en métal, enfoncez l'extrémité plus courte de l'autre côté du clip de retenue dans le trou creusé dans la fixation de l'écran LCD.
  • Insérez l'extrémité la plus longue du clip de retenue dans le trou creusé dans la fixation de l'écran LCD.

  • Avec la spatule en métal, enfoncez l'extrémité plus courte de l'autre côté du clip de retenue dans le trou creusé dans la fixation de l'écran LCD.

  • La deuxième photo montre la fixation de l'écran LCD montée correctement.

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Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes de 4,2 mm fixant le cache charnière.
  • Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes de 4,2 mm fixant le cache charnière.

In this picture you can see that it is a Nikon camera that was used for this guide. :)

GotMac - Réponse

Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran d'une main, enlevez le cache charnière des gonds de la charnière de l'autre.
  • Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran d'une main, enlevez le cache charnière des gonds de la charnière de l'autre.

  • Il peut être utile d'agiter le cache charnière de gauche à droite quand vous le séparez de l'écran.

There are little clips at each end of the clutch cover, and I found it helpful first to lift the clutch cover off the metal rod first, and after that squeeze the cables at each end between the clips, so you can lift the cover off.

Iron Kettle - Réponse

Soulevez le côté droit du cache charnière et guidez le câble de données de l'écran et la nappe iSight à travers le trou dans le cache charnière.
  • Soulevez le côté droit du cache charnière et guidez le câble de données de l'écran et la nappe iSight à travers le trou dans le cache charnière.

  • Ôtez le cache charnière de l'ensemble écran.

  • Lors du remontage, veillez à ne pas coincer la nappe du rétroéclairage (avec le connecteur blanc) quand vous remettez le cache charnière en place. La nappe est composée de deux fils visibles menant à la partie inférieure droite de l'écran LCD. (Certains modèles sont munis de fils rose et blanc qui sont plus longs et se coincent plus facilement.)

Pay attention here. I missed the part about pinching the cable and that's exactly what I did. It helps to pull the video and mic cables tight to fit the clutch cover on. I also had to make sure the pink/white cables were up and out of the way. When I did it correctly, it slid in pretty easily. It would help to really look at how things are arranged when you are taking it apart, too. There's some tabs that interconnect with the plastic sliding things you removed in steps 46-47.

maccentric - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en ordre inverse.

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iRobot

Membre depuis le 24/09/2009

1 Réputation

745 tutoriels rédigés

Excellent guide. Thank you.

I just wish I read it before stripping down my MacBook last night.

At least I know what screws go where when reassembling it with new hinges.

Aidan Killian - Réponse

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