Introduction

Les ventilateurs ont beaucoup de souffle... jusqu'à leur dernier souffle. Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez un ventilateur droit endommagé, cassé ou défectueux.

Dévissez les vis Pentalobe P5 suivantes fixant le boîtier inférieur au MacBook Pro :
  • Dévissez les vis Pentalobe P5 suivantes fixant le boîtier inférieur au MacBook Pro :

    • Huit vis de 3,0 mm

    • Deux vis de 2,3 mm

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero - Réponse

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr -

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart -

Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

Mike -

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell - Réponse

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough -

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori -

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma - Réponse

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori - Réponse

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio - Réponse

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd - Réponse

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia - Réponse

I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

Alvaro Suarez - Réponse

Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

Jose David Valle -

Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

Bert0ld0 -

Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

brian2burnett - Réponse

Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

Walt Goede - Réponse

Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

/JD

Jakob Dahlin - Réponse

Not sure if this has been listed.

PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

erin - Réponse

En commençant par le bord le plus proche de la charnière, ôtez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.
  • En commençant par le bord le plus proche de la charnière, ôtez le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro.

  • Mettez le boitier inférieur de côté.

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835 - Réponse

I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

Tim Peat -

I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

This is a "PC" habit.

On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

crus - Réponse

Hey,

Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

Regards

Jose David Valle -

This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

Andrew Fox -

I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

Thanks for help.

c4rlosv8 - Réponse

There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

Tim Peat -

If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

auntialias - Réponse

Tirez vers l'arrière l'autocollant d'avertissement qui recouvre le connecteur de batterie.
  • Tirez vers l'arrière l'autocollant d'avertissement qui recouvre le connecteur de batterie.

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori - Réponse

Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

g000phy - Réponse

Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

max damage -

Why is this step necessary?

67b5ebab - Réponse

67b5ebab Good question !

Why is this necessary ?

bigb19791979 - Réponse

This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

Hope that helps!!

~the more you know~

Colin Devenney - Réponse

I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

Achilles - Réponse

Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez délicatement le connecteur de batterie vers le haut hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Repliez les câbles de la batterie vers l'arrière et de côté afin que le connecteur de batterie ne touche pas accidentellement la carte mère.
  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez délicatement le connecteur de batterie vers le haut hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Repliez les câbles de la batterie vers l'arrière et de côté afin que le connecteur de batterie ne touche pas accidentellement la carte mère.

I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

Joel Replogle - Réponse

So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

Bert0ld0 -

Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

Jer - Réponse

I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

Thomas Horan - Réponse

Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

James Suojanen - Réponse

Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

Antonino Auteri - Réponse

Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez les trois nappes d'antenne AirPort de leur prise sur la carte AirPort.
  • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez les trois nappes d'antenne AirPort de leur prise sur la carte AirPort.

will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

Oleg Babko - Réponse

Yes, this voids your warranty.

max damage -

If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

Delta - Réponse

These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

Alvin Chua - Réponse

If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

lamajr -

I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

is there a way to replace the antenna?

Fabian Schweinfurth - Réponse

unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

Arn Custodio - Réponse

The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

joey - Réponse

Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

Thomas Kunjappu - Réponse

Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

Jer -

After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

cabcpa - Réponse

Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

travismlive - Réponse

Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

Jer -

@tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

1)The rubber heat sink cover

2 The AirPort/Camera cables

3)The IO board cable

All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

Itai -

These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

ChrisMBP -

travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

Jasper - Réponse

I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

Douglas Johnston - Réponse

Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

Douglas Johnston - Réponse

Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

Radoslaw Przybyl - Réponse

the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

Frederick Rae - Réponse

The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

Sam Jomaa - Réponse

Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

Sam Jomaa - Réponse

tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

Jon Ocampo - Réponse

Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

chuck60 - Réponse

I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

Achilles -

Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

eskoo - Réponse

Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

Walt Goede - Réponse

If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

lamajr - Réponse

Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

Chapman Harrison - Réponse

Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

Chapman Harrison - Réponse

Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
  • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), poussez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à pousser parallèlement à la carte, d'abord d'un côté, puis de l'autre pour faire "sortir" le connecteur de sa prise.

I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

Sergey - Réponse

Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

bhayes9614 -

This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

mayer - Réponse

This tip worked for me.

eskoo -

If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

noahtfu - Réponse

Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

kramerigor - Réponse

the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

micheleroger - Réponse

Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

Jason Amri -

Push on the little wings, from right to left.

Julian Wood - Réponse

This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

Jon Ocampo - Réponse

The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

Ben Moore - Réponse

This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

Ryan Brown - Réponse

It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

Jen Wells - Réponse

The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

Charles Lindauer - Réponse

The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

jerryl - Réponse

Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

Chuck Barton - Réponse

Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) sous le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur sur le ventilateur droit. Faites glisser la spatule tout le long du cache, décollant ainsi la bande adhésive. Soulevez le cache et retournez-le de façon à accéder aux nappes en-dessous.
  • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) sous le cache en caoutchouc du dissipateur de chaleur sur le ventilateur droit.

  • Faites glisser la spatule tout le long du cache, décollant ainsi la bande adhésive.

  • Soulevez le cache et retournez-le de façon à accéder aux nappes en-dessous.

Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

cahcadden - Réponse

Avec vos doigts, enlevez les nappes Airport et caméra du ventilateur. Les nappes sont collées au ventilateur, dégagez-les donc soigneusement pour éviter de les endommager. Retirez avec soin les nappes du guide-câble en plastique.
  • Avec vos doigts, enlevez les nappes Airport et caméra du ventilateur.

    • Les nappes sont collées au ventilateur, dégagez-les donc soigneusement pour éviter de les endommager.

  • Retirez avec soin les nappes du guide-câble en plastique.

It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

PriorityMail - Réponse

Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

Aniket Suryavanshi - Réponse

I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

ChrisMBP - Réponse

Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la carte E/S pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Lors du remontage, reconnectez d'abord cette extrémité car elle ne se plie pas. Procédez de façon similaire pour débrancher le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte E/S. Ôtez la nappe de la carte E/S du MacBook Pro.
  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la carte E/S pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère. Lors du remontage, reconnectez d'abord cette extrémité car elle ne se plie pas.

  • Procédez de façon similaire pour débrancher le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

  • Ôtez la nappe de la carte E/S du MacBook Pro.

Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

peteyx - Réponse

When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

bitmat23 - Réponse

Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant la carte AirPort À la carte mère.
  • Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 2,9 mm fixant la carte AirPort À la carte mère.

Ajouter un commentaire

Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro. Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro.
  • Saisissez les bords fins de la carte AirPort et tirez-la parallèlement à la carte mère pour l'ôter du MacBook Pro.

As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

stvn chng - Réponse

You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

eskoo - Réponse

There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

Tristan Harward - Réponse

Avec la pointe d'une spatule spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit. Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.
  • Avec la pointe d'une spatule spudger), ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur droit.

  • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non sur la prise elle-même.

  • En commençant en haut de la nappe, glissez un outil en plastique sous la nappe du ventilateur droit pour la décoller de la carte mère.

  • Faites attention en décollant la nappe car elle adhère fortement à la carte mère.

I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

Alvin Chua - Réponse

Easier to do while removing fan.

mayer - Réponse

The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

Kitipong Mork - Réponse

ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

Don Steele - Réponse

I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

eskoo - Réponse

Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère :
  • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur droit à la carte mère :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 4,4 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,9 mm à large tête

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,0 mm avec un épaulement de 2 mm

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Soulevez le ventilateur droit et ôtez-le du MacBook Pro.
  • Soulevez le ventilateur droit et ôtez-le du MacBook Pro.

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Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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doesn't look too bad, my right fan is making a terrible sound, I'm debating if I should bring it to apple or if I should just replace it myself

aaronchasemusic - Réponse

pretty easy guide. i replaced the left fan recently, so i decided to do the right as well since it had been making the same grinding noise, albeit not quite as loud. the fans themselves were pretty clean, i’ve typically use a blast of compressed air to dust them out about once a month over the almost 5 years i’ve owned this MBP.

i skipped steps 3-4-5. and using some of the comments as guidance i was able to take a few short cuts and have the fan replaced in about 20 minutes. powered up the MB without the back cover just to make sure the fan would spin, it did, checked to make sure everything worked, internet, BT connection, camera etc, powered down, screwed on the back cover and done.

MacProUser - Réponse

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