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Introduction

Use this guide to replace your AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed as shown, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

  • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

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Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

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Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

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Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.
  • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

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Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

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Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

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Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

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Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

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Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

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While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.
  • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

  • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

Don't forget to place the mac face up on the table. Unlike older models, there is no more flap at the bottom holding the display in place. If you do these steps with the Mac upright, the screen will pop out, hit your table, and shatter :( Don't ask me how I know.

John M - Réponse

So sorry. Thanks for that caution.

Ted Horodynsky - Réponse

John. May I contact outside of this posting for a question please? Thank you. Ted.

Ted Horodynsky - Réponse

Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
  • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

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Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
  • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

  • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

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Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
  • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

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Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame located at the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame located at the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame located at the top left corner of the iMac.
  • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame located at the top left corner of the iMac.

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Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
  • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

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Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

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Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.
  • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

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With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
  • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

  • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

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While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable. Make sure that you pull the cable out from the plastic tab, and not by pulling on the color wires. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable. Make sure that you pull the cable out from the plastic tab, and not by pulling on the color wires.

  • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

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Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

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If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.
  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

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Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

  • Upon reassembly, now is the time to go to the Adhesive Strips Guide after cleaning off all the old adhesive. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544 Adhesive Strips Replacement

After removing the display, I also removed the 3 screws for the processor fan, disconnected the power connector for it and set the fan shroud aside. Disconnecting the remaining cable (similar style to 1 of the cables for the display) that is in the way of the RAM chips is all that's left to do. I was then able to access and quickly remove the two Apple-provided RAM chips, and replace them with 3rd party RAM. Turning the iMac on its side, so that it's in a position where you're physically putting the RAM chips DOWNWARD into their respective slots is the best way to go about uninstalling and reinstalling the chips. Using a narrow but long'ish plastic spudger tool is the best way to defeat the spring-tabs which hold the RAM chips in place. After removing the LCD display, changing the RAM is about a 10 minute process!! And I'd SURE prefer not to remove all the parts and risk damage to the iMac via the standard procedure listed. As per usual, take your time and work gently :-)

Mitch K - Réponse

Teardown the whole machine just to change RAM? While preparing to comment on this procedure I just noticed the comment made by Mitch K above. I ran pretty much the same procedure that he describes this afternoon (steps 1-23, 43-45, and step 55). Then I swapped out the original 2x4GB RAM chips for 2x8GB chips by reaching behind the logic board, releasing the spring retaining clips one chip at a time (starting with the chip further away from the logic board), pivoting the RAM towards the back of the machine, and then carefully sliding it out of the slot. I easily slid in the new chips and then pivoted them to lock them down. No hassle, no time lost. As Mitch K states above, not only is this “shortcut” method much quicker and easier, but it provides less risk of damaging cables, sockets and other delicate components during a total teardown. Why mess with the power supply board just to change RAM? I do not advise to follow the current iFixit.com procedure written by Sam Lionheart, regardless of user skill-level.

MacSandor - Réponse

Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
  • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

  • Pull the connector downwards to remove it from its socket.

I highly recommend doing steps 27 and 28 first and then pull out the cable. It will give you more room on the right side of the cable to work with making this step that much easier.

Eddie de la Rosa - Réponse

Remove the two 10.0 mm T10 screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.
  • Remove the two 10.0 mm T10 screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.

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Pull the top of the right speaker away from the rear enclosure, about half an inch, to expose the antenna cable running down its right side. Pull the top of the right speaker away from the rear enclosure, about half an inch, to expose the antenna cable running down its right side.
  • Pull the top of the right speaker away from the rear enclosure, about half an inch, to expose the antenna cable running down its right side.

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Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable that is routed into the speaker's right side. Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker. Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable that is routed into the speaker's right side.

  • Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.

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Pull the right speaker straight up about an inch, toward the top of the iMac. Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. This may take some force, both hands and rocking the speaker right and left to get it out. Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. This may take some force, both hands and rocking the speaker right and left to get it out.
  • Pull the right speaker straight up about an inch, toward the top of the iMac.

  • Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. This may take some force, both hands and rocking the speaker right and left to get it out.

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Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:
  • Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.

    • One 9 mm T10 Torx screw.

    • One 27 mm T10 Torx screw.

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Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.
  • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

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The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply to avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently "walk" it out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently "walk" it out of its socket.
  • The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply to avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently "walk" it out of its socket.

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Gently push upward on each side of the power supply control cable connector with the tip of a spudger to gently "walk" it out of its socket. Gently push upward on each side of the power supply control cable connector with the tip of a spudger to gently "walk" it out of its socket.
  • Gently push upward on each side of the power supply control cable connector with the tip of a spudger to gently "walk" it out of its socket.

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Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.
  • Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.

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When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Tilt the power supply forward.
  • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Tilt the power supply forward.

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Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure. Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left. Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.
  • Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure.

  • Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.

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Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure. Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.
  • Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.

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Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure. Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board. Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.
  • Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure.

  • Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.

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Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Flip the top of the power supply towards you to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board.
  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Flip the top of the power supply towards you to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board.

  • Squeeze the DC power cable connector tab and pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

what happens if you damage the power socket on the logic board?

Racheal Major - Réponse

The tab is on the bottom of the connector. You can’t see it. Squeeze the bottom of the connector close to the cables to properly release tab. Pulling straight out is important.

Eddie de la Rosa - Réponse

This step might be easier if you do the next step first (step 41) and then come back to this step.

Eddie de la Rosa - Réponse

I loosened the logic board attached to the power supply board. I then could easily remove the 2 power cables.

Gerard Stoffels - Réponse

You may find it helpful to set the iMac down on its back on the table for the next couple of steps. Use the flat end of a spudger to push the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward. While holding on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.
  • You may find it helpful to set the iMac down on its back on the table for the next couple of steps.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward.

  • While holding on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.

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Remove the power supply from the iMac.
  • Remove the power supply from the iMac.

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Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board. Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.
  • Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the three 12.3 mm T10 shoulder screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.
  • Remove the three 12.3 mm T10 shoulder screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.

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Remove the fan from the iMac. Remove the fan from the iMac.
  • Remove the fan from the iMac.

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Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess. The hard drive is attached by two cables, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac. The hard drive is attached by two cables, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac.
  • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

  • The hard drive is attached by two cables, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac.

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Disconnect the SATA power cable. Disconnect the SATA power cable.
  • Disconnect the SATA power cable.

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Unplug the SATA data cable from the hard drive. Unplug the SATA data cable from the hard drive.
  • Unplug the SATA data cable from the hard drive.

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Remove the hard drive from the iMac.
  • Remove the hard drive from the iMac.

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Remove the single 7.2 mm T10 screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.
  • Remove the single 7.2 mm T10 screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.

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Remove the hard drive tray from the rear enclosure.
  • Remove the hard drive tray from the rear enclosure.

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Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently "walk" it out of its socket. Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently "walk" it out of its socket.
  • Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently "walk" it out of its socket.

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De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure. De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure.
  • De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure.

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In a similar fashion as the previous step, de-route the SATA data and power cables up out of the retaining clip. In a similar fashion as the previous step, de-route the SATA data and power cables up out of the retaining clip. In a similar fashion as the previous step, de-route the SATA data and power cables up out of the retaining clip.
  • In a similar fashion as the previous step, de-route the SATA data and power cables up out of the retaining clip.

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Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable connector. Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable connector.

  • Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.

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Use the flat edge of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.

I broke off one of the antenna connectors when I took off the antenna wires, but the new 802.11ac card is working:) I seems the way to take off the wires is lifting it up from the wire side. In hindsight I just wasn´t careful enough.

Runar Vaernes - Réponse

how do I check a working logic board

Navneet Garg - Réponse

Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Push the cable slightly to the right. Push the cable slightly to the right.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Push the cable slightly to the right.

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Remove the following screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:
  • Remove the following screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 6.3 mm T8 screws

    • Two 4.7 mm T8 screws

Weirdly, these screws didn’t work with my T8 driver. Not with T6 or T10.

Every other screw (to this point) has been fine. Hmm.

Jake Lodwick - Réponse

Remove the four 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.
  • Remove the four 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.

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Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.
  • Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure.

  • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac.

  • Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.

  • The I/O boards at the bottom of the logic board will be the greatest challenge. It is recommended to pull gently to avoid any damage.

  • During reassembly of the logic board, pay attention to the position of the I/O connectors. When the board is back in the case, insert a USB or Thunderbolt cable into one of the connectors to align it perfectly.

When inserting the logic board back, pay attention of the position of the I/O connectors. When it is back in place, put a USB / Thunderbolt cable into the connectors to ensure the perfect alignment.

Peter - Réponse

This is fantastic advice. I used a combination of USB and display port plugs to ensure proper alignment and help keep the logic board steady while i screwed it back in. Thank you!!

Andrew -

Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
  • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

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Slightly lift the AirPort/Bluetooth card and pull it straight out its socket. Do not use excessive force to pull the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card away from its socket on the logic board. Doing so may damage the socket. When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling the retaining screws.
  • Slightly lift the AirPort/Bluetooth card and pull it straight out its socket.

  • Do not use excessive force to pull the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card away from its socket on the logic board. Doing so may damage the socket.

  • When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling the retaining screws.

I addition to the two Torx5 screws, My Wi Fi bluetooth card was glued to the main board with a grey porous glue that was easy to peel off once I got the card loose.

Runar Vaernes - Réponse

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

2 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Sam Lionheart

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I successfully upgraded the Wi-Fi Bluetooth card in my late 2012 iMac to 802.11ac following this guide! The new card is now the same as what´s in the new 2013 iMacs, I used the 2013 iMac teardown to find the right part:)

Runar Vaernes - Réponse

Do I need to remove/clean the paste that locks the card before installing a new one? If I use a used one, what kind of paste do I have to use to replace the old one?

Pzucchi - Réponse

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