Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer le câble du bouton de marche incluant le commutateur mécanique de marche, le flash de la caméra et le microphone.

Avant de désassembler votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.
  • Avant de désassembler votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.

  • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer la réparation.

  • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,6 mm situées de part et d'autre du connecteur Lightning.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Réponse

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Réponse

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Réponse

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Réponse

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Réponse

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Réponse

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - Réponse

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - Réponse

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - Réponse

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - Réponse

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - Réponse

Les trois prochaines étapes vous montrent comment utiliser l'iSclack, une pince spécialement conçue pour ouvrir votre iPhone 6 en toute sécurité, et que nous recommandons à tous ceux qui effectuent souvent des réparations. Si vous n'utilisez pas d'iSclack, sautez ces trois étapes et suivez l'autre méthode.
  • Les trois prochaines étapes vous montrent comment utiliser l'iSclack, une pince spécialement conçue pour ouvrir votre iPhone 6 en toute sécurité, et que nous recommandons à tous ceux qui effectuent souvent des réparations. Si vous n'utilisez pas d'iSclack, sautez ces trois étapes et suivez l'autre méthode.

  • Si la jauge de profondeur en plastique est attachée au milieu de l'iSclack, retirez-la, elle n'est pas nécessaire pour les iPhone de grande taille tel que l'iPhone 6.

  • Serrez les poignées pour ouvrir les mâchoires avec les ventouses.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Réponse

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - Réponse

Posez la partie inférieure de votre iPhone entre les deux ventouses. Positionnez la ventouse supérieure contre la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home sans pourtant le couvrir.
  • Posez la partie inférieure de votre iPhone entre les deux ventouses.

    • Positionnez la ventouse supérieure contre la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home sans pourtant le couvrir.

  • Ouvrez les poignées pour fermer les ventouses. Centrez et exercez une pression sur les ventouses.

Ajouter un commentaire

Tenez bien votre iPhone et desserrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière. Le iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir votre iPhone en toute sécurité, c'est à dire, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.
  • Tenez bien votre iPhone et desserrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière.

  • Le iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir votre iPhone en toute sécurité, c'est à dire, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.

  • Décollez les deux ventouses de votre iPhone.

  • Sautez les trois prochaines étapes et passez à l'étape 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Réponse

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Réponse

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Réponse

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - Réponse

Si vous ne disposez pas d'iSclack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever la vitre :
  • Si vous ne disposez pas d'iSclack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever la vitre :

    • Posez une ventouse sur la vitre, juste au dessus du bouton home.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse adhère bien.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Réponse

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Réponse

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

-Tom

tombuy - Réponse

Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.
  • Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et tirez de façon ferme et continue. L'écran tient beaucoup mieux que la plupart des composants.

  • Utilisez un outil en plastique, commencez à pousser le boîtier délicatement vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.

  • Il y a plusieurs clips qui attachent l'écran au boîtier, il vous faudra probablement utiliser et la ventouse et l'outil en plastique pour libérer l'écran.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Réponse

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Réponse

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Réponse

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Réponse

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Réponse

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - Réponse

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Réponse

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

Luke Man - Réponse

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Alan Derrick - Réponse

Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse. Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.
  • Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse.

  • Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.

Ajouter un commentaire

Ouvrez l'iPhone en soulevant la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière. Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran créent une charnière partielle. Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.
  • Ouvrez l'iPhone en soulevant la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière.

    • Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran créent une charnière partielle.

    • Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Réponse

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Réponse

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Réponse

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Réponse

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - Réponse

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - Réponse

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

nigel - Réponse

Ouvrez l'écran à un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier et calez-le contre un support pendant que vous travaillez. A la rigueur, une canette fermée peut vous dépanner. Rajoutez un élastique pour bien maintenir l'écran lorsque vous travaillez. Ceci évite de forcer inutilement sur le nappes.
  • Ouvrez l'écran à un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier et calez-le contre un support pendant que vous travaillez.

    • A la rigueur, une canette fermée peut vous dépanner.

  • Rajoutez un élastique pour bien maintenir l'écran lorsque vous travaillez. Ceci évite de forcer inutilement sur le nappes.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Réponse

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Réponse

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Réponse

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Réponse

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Réponse

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

Sherman Homan - Réponse

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

todd adelman - Réponse

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

brian - Réponse

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

smahar - Réponse

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

Sam Lionheart -

Retirez les vis cruciformes 00 suivantes du cache de connecteur de la batterie :
  • Retirez les vis cruciformes 00 suivantes du cache de connecteur de la batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

    • Une vis de 3,2 mm

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Réponse

ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

Cory Berends -

Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Réponse

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Réponse

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Réponse

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Réponse

Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Réponse

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Réponse

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Réponse

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Réponse

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Réponse

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Réponse

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Réponse

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Réponse

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Réponse

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Réponse

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - Réponse

bv.gjg jhv /jhv

Michael Amara - Réponse

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Tung-wei Lin - Réponse

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

Alastair Lack - Réponse

So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

John Palaganas - Réponse

The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

Jeff Suovanen -

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Eric Craumer - Réponse

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

Jimmy Doi - Réponse

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

Michael Pesenti - Réponse

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

Michael Pesenti - Réponse

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Michael Pesenti - Réponse

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Matt - Réponse

Retirez le cache métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
  • Retirez le cache métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Réponse

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Réponse

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - Réponse

A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur de batterie pour le soulever de son emplacement sur la carte mère.
  • A l'aide d'un outil en plastique, faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur de batterie pour le soulever de son emplacement sur la carte mère.

  • Veillez à ne faire levier que sur le connecteur de batterie et non pas sur sa prise sur la carte mère. Si vous faites levier sur la prise, vous risquez de casser le connecteur entier.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Réponse

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Réponse

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Réponse

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Réponse

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Réponse

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Réponse

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Réponse

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Réponse

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Réponse

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - Réponse

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

Tom Rohrer -

I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

Kevin Harvey -

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

thomasjmaclean - Réponse

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

Sare - Réponse

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

Alex Kosmider - Réponse

Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

Alex Kosmider -

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

lowestseries - Réponse

Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes qui maintiennent le cache  de la nappe d'écran :
  • Retirez les cinq vis cruciformes suivantes qui maintiennent le cache de la nappe d'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 1,7 mm

    • Une vis de 3,1 mm

    • Si ces vis sont placées au mauvais endroit lorsque vous remontez votre appareil, vous risquez de causer des dommages irréversibles à la carte mère de votre iPhone.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Réponse

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Réponse

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Réponse

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Réponse

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Réponse

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Réponse

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Réponse

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Réponse

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Réponse

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Réponse

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Réponse

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Réponse

Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

Sare -

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Réponse

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Réponse

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Réponse

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Réponse

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Réponse

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Réponse

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Réponse

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Réponse

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Réponse

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

jacobdanderson -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Réponse

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Réponse

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Réponse

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Réponse

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Réponse

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Réponse

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Réponse

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Réponse

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Réponse

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Réponse

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - Réponse

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Réponse

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Eric Craumer - Réponse

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

L He - Réponse

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Sherman Homan - Réponse

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

Sare - Réponse

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

Sare - Réponse

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

philbjh - Réponse

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

lowestseries - Réponse

Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.
  • Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.

Ajouter un commentaire

Lors des quatre étapes suivantes, veillez à ne faire levier que sur les nappes des connecteurs, et non pas sur leurs prises sur la carte mère. A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra avant et de la nappe de capteur.
  • Lors des quatre étapes suivantes, veillez à ne faire levier que sur les nappes des connecteurs, et non pas sur leurs prises sur la carte mère.

  • A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez le connecteur de la caméra avant et de la nappe de capteur.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Réponse

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Réponse

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Réponse

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Réponse

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Réponse

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Réponse

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Réponse

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Réponse

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Réponse

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Réponse

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Réponse

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Réponse

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - Réponse

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Pitt Monqui - Réponse

Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe du bouton home.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Réponse

Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran. Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe de gestion de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran.

  • Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe de gestion de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Réponse

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Réponse

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Réponse

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Réponse

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Réponse

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Réponse

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Réponse

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Réponse

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - Réponse

Utilisez l'extrémité plate de la spatule pour déconnecter la nappe de gestion du tactile. Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe de l'écran, n'appuyez pas au milieu du connecteur. Appuyez d'abord sur un des côtés du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Si vous appuyez au milieu, vous risquez de plier le connecteur et d'endommager l'écran.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate de la spatule pour déconnecter la nappe de gestion du tactile.

  • Lorsque vous reconnectez la nappe de l'écran, n'appuyez pas au milieu du connecteur. Appuyez d'abord sur un des côtés du connecteur, puis sur l'autre. Si vous appuyez au milieu, vous risquez de plier le connecteur et d'endommager l'écran.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Réponse

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Réponse

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Réponse

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Réponse

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Réponse

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Réponse

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Réponse

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Réponse

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Réponse

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

Heywoz - Réponse

Détachez l'écran du boitier arrière.
  • Détachez l'écran du boitier arrière.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Réponse

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Réponse

Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

Neos Kosmos - Réponse

Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM. Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.
  • Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le petit trou du tiroir de la carte SIM.

  • Appuyez pour éjecter le tiroir.

  • Une certaine force est nécessaire lors de cette étape.

Why isn’t this the first step in the process? Seems unnecessarily risky to fumble with popping the SIM in and out when you’ve already opened up the phone.

Perrin Haley - Réponse

Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.
  • Retirez le tiroir avec la carte SIM de l'iPhone.

  • Lorsque vous remettez la carte SIM, veillez à ce qu'elle soit dans le bon sens par rapport au tiroir.

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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du connecteur Lightning et pour l'écarter du haut-parleur. Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du connecteur Lightning et pour l'écarter du haut-parleur.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du connecteur Lightning et pour l'écarter du haut-parleur.

How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

Carter Christie - Réponse

Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

paulflicker - Réponse

you did not show the removal of battery bracket.

Richard Anderson - Réponse

Utilisez l'embout pointu d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du module wifi de sa prise sur la carte mère. Utilisez l'embout pointu d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du module wifi de sa prise sur la carte mère.
  • Utilisez l'embout pointu d'une spatule pour déconnecter la nappe du module wifi de sa prise sur la carte mère.

Definitely was a very small snug fitting connector.

ronjon40 - Réponse

ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this

Jordan Leong - Réponse

Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?

Lars Andersson - Réponse

Yes to this. Listen for that satisfying click…

Christa -

I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.

Trent Warner - Réponse

Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.

Alexander Kvasov -

(I had to do this step to replace the antenna flex cable)

I couldn’t pull this connector at all. Tried tip of spudger, flat end of spudger, my nail (which even got a dent in the process ^^) and finally the tweezers (I know, risky) but the little bastard wouldn’t come off…

I managed to pull out the logic board very carefully and twisted it in the least straining way for the cable to access the flex cable on the back.

In the end everything was fine and the repair worked ok.

Switching this step for this repair can be ok if you are extra carefull with twisting the cable

Tug - Réponse

I found this step the most difficult both during disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat end of a spludger and this seemed to work pretty good, but definitely required patience to remove it. In recconnecting, be just as patient!

Bill - Réponse

I found this the most difficult step, both for disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat ended spludger, but it worked ok…just require a lot of patience and careful manipulation. The same amount of patience was required to put the connector back.

Bill - Réponse

Found it easiest to go beneath the cable (on the opposite side from what’s shown on the photos) and leverage from there, using tip of spudger.

Helge Fahrnberger - Réponse

What antenna does this cable attach to? I’m trying to determine if this would be the cellular antenna.

kris - Réponse

If you just need to look under the logic board to check for corrosion you can skip this step and just maneuver the logic board afterwords (I accidentally did this and it worked just fine and I didnt’ have to worry about putting the wire back in.

jacobdanderson - Réponse

Retirez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes du cache supérieur de la nappe :
  • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes suivantes du cache supérieur de la nappe :

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • Une vis de 2,2 mm

I reached till this step to replace the antenna cable using the toolkit I ordered with the cable from ifixit shop. But I could not open the orange marked screw in this step and had to roll back the whole thing as I did not want to destroy the screw by applying force. It seems to me the #000 philips screw driver bit I got is poor quality as I had trouble opening the small red screws as well.

Any recommendation for better quality #000 Phillips screw driver?

Suhaib Khalid - Réponse

Put the phone on a solid surface (table or countertop), hold the screwdriver exactly vertical, press it down hard on the screw head, and turn. That’s all it takes! You’re not going to hurt anything by pressing down firmly. Some screws just require a little more force, and using a different screwdriver won’t change anything.

Jeff Suovanen -

Retirez le cache supérieur de la nappe. Retirez le cache supérieur de la nappe.
  • Retirez le cache supérieur de la nappe.

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Lorsque vous débranchez les connecteurs suivants, essayez de ne soulever que les connecteurs et pas la prise située sur la carte mère. Vous risquez sinon de l'endommager. Utilisez l'embout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe du bouton power. Déconnectez la nappe des boutons de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.
  • Lorsque vous débranchez les connecteurs suivants, essayez de ne soulever que les connecteurs et pas la prise située sur la carte mère. Vous risquez sinon de l'endommager.

  • Utilisez l'embout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe du bouton power.

  • Déconnectez la nappe des boutons de volume de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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Retirez ensuite les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes de l'antenne Wi-Fi :
  • Retirez ensuite les quatre vis cruciformes suivantes de l'antenne Wi-Fi :

    • Une vis de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis de 1,4 mm

    • Deux vis de 2,1 mm

unable to get 1.4mm screw out with included 000 ph driver. Any ideas?

David Craig - Réponse

I´m unable to remove all 4 screws with the tools provided

Renato Caicedo - Réponse

The 1.5 mm screw got stripped. Any ideas?

John Galvin - Réponse

I can’t get the 1.4 and 1.5 screws out even after reading how to unscrew properly. Worried I am stripping screws.

Mareque Ireland - Réponse

Retirez l'antenne WiFi de l'iPhone. Faites attention de ne toucher aucun point de contact métal-métal avec vos doigts nus. Utilisez une pincette ou des gants.  Les empreintes graisseuses de nos doigts peuvent nuire à la connectivité. Si vous touchez un de ces composants, lavez-le avez un nettoyant-dégraissant comme le windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique  avant de remonter l'appareil.
  • Retirez l'antenne WiFi de l'iPhone.

  • Faites attention de ne toucher aucun point de contact métal-métal avec vos doigts nus. Utilisez une pincette ou des gants. Les empreintes graisseuses de nos doigts peuvent nuire à la connectivité. Si vous touchez un de ces composants, lavez-le avez un nettoyant-dégraissant comme le windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique avant de remonter l'appareil.

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Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm de la fixation de mise à la terre.
  • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm de la fixation de mise à la terre.

I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

facebook - Réponse

These two little screws are in pretty tight.

Matt Lobban - Réponse

I could not for the life of me get the screw on the left side out! But with the right hand screw out I was able to proceed and lift the logic board out without removing the bracket.

Kayleigh Steele - Réponse

It’s not really a “grounding” bracket, but rather the RF connection to the combined 2.4GHz WiFi/GPS/BT/Diversity cellular antenna integrated in the top bezel. Thus it’s essential that you get a good electrical connection, otherwise your RF stuff won’t work.

Dormouse - Réponse

I CANNOT get these screws out!

Becky n - Réponse

Retirez la fixation de mise à la terre. Retirez la fixation de mise à la terre.
  • Retirez la fixation de mise à la terre.

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Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes qui retiennent la fixation de la carte mère. Une vis de 2,6 mm
  • Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes qui retiennent la fixation de la carte mère.

    • Une vis de 2,6 mm

    • Une vis de 1,3 mm vissée sur le bord supérieur du châssis de l'iPhone.

Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.

sem schilder - Réponse

I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?

Daniel Villanis -

I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.

Anand Parthasarathy - Réponse

Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.

Anand Parthasarathy -

I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.

Gar Galen - Réponse

I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!

Kelsey Chesnut -

Also unable to remove the horizontal 1.3mm phillips screw, but it was OK as it didn’t prevent me from proceeding with later steps.

Perrin Haley -

Same for me. Couldn’t get it out, left it in - worked perfectly.

And by the way - thanks sooooo much for the comments guys - helped me a lot through this repair!

Wusels -

I’m struggling to remove 2.6 mm screw. The head seems to be very worn. It’s the only screw left, holding the board to the case. I tried to unscrew it at different angles, applying pressure. Nothing is working. Any ideas how to remove it?

Joanna Kastelik - Réponse

Stripped screws are a nightmare and there are no guarantees. If it’s only mildly stripped, you can try going up one size on your screwdriver and using a good amount of downward pressure. But if it starts to strip again, stop before you do any more damage. Try some of the additional techniques in the stripped screw guide. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is not just a mechanical bracket, but the upper cellular antenna tuning connection to the top bezel antenna. Thus it needs a good electrical connection, or your cell coverage will be bad.

Dormouse - Réponse

To elaborate; When reassembling, the 2.6mm screw needs to go in quite tight, since it squeezes a small rise in the “angled logic board bracket” (really a connector between antenna tuner and the top bezel antenna) against a small gold pad on the main logic board.

This electrical connection needs to work, else the dynamic antenna tuning won’t work - which will cause problems in radio band switching (for instance between 3G and 4G, or different 4G bands). A typical indication that you have a problem here is that it can temporarily be “fixed” by squeezing the top of the phone. It’s really a crappy design choice by Apple.

Dormouse -

I also proceeded without removing the 1.3mm screw and continued on with the remaining steps with no problems. Gar Galen (above) was correct - “The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.”

Joey Imperatori - Réponse

Couldn’t get the 1.3mm screw out but it didn’t stop me

Tessa Baker - Réponse

Retirez la patte de fixation de la carte mère. Retirez la patte de fixation de la carte mère.
  • Retirez la patte de fixation de la carte mère.

The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.

Doug Whyte - Réponse

Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.

Anand Parthasarathy - Réponse

I broke the part where the screw connecting it to the logic board goes. The metal part is still okay just the screw won't go in. Will it still work?

Neel Nani - Réponse

Retirez l'unique vis cruciforme de 1,2 mm qui assure la connexion de l'antenne sur la carte mère.
  • Retirez l'unique vis cruciforme de 1,2 mm qui assure la connexion de l'antenne sur la carte mère.

Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

Christian Abreu - Réponse

If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

Jas - Réponse

This screw was missing from my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Kyle Sullivan - Réponse

I was working on a cell reception issue and notice that this screw is missing as well. I had the screen previously repaired by a third party and am not sure if they did a poor job and lost parts, or if it was legit missing in the first place based on Kyle’s comment above.

ttilberg - Réponse

The Screw and Step´s 34 “antenna interconnect cable” are missing in my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Renan Sesti - Réponse

Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'un spudger pour éloigner le câble de l'antenne wi-fi de la carte mère. Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'un spudger pour éloigner le câble de l'antenne wi-fi de la carte mère.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité pointue d'un spudger pour éloigner le câble de l'antenne wi-fi de la carte mère.

Argh — easy to forget on the reassemble and even easier to break! A “do the reverse” of these instructions really isn’t sufficient.

Iain York - Réponse

Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra de sa prise sur la carte mère. Faites attention de ne soulever que le connecteur et non la prise sur laquelle il est branché au risque d'endommager la carte mère. Éloignez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour déconnecter la nappe de la caméra de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Faites attention de ne soulever que le connecteur et non la prise sur laquelle il est branché au risque d'endommager la carte mère.

  • Éloignez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.

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  • Retirez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent la carte mère au boîtier arrière :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 1,9 mm

    • Une vis d'entretoise de 2,3 mm

The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

Matthew Williams - Réponse

I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

paulflicker - Réponse

Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

Angelo Mastrella -

Yes, I too faced issue and the guide should indicate we need a 1.5mm flat head screw driver. Without that, you end up in half disassembled phone with no way to fix further.

IFIXIT, please adjust the instructions and better yet add a small 1.5mm flat head tip to use in the kit.

Anand Parthasarathy - Réponse

Well it does say to use a flathead in the instructions, and it's also in the tools list at the top of the guide. Although if you really want to make it easy, you can use a standoff driver (or just the standoff bit if you already have the driver handle).

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, it mentions in the list. I stand corrected. But when ordering the repair kit with the part for antenna cable replacement, it is not clear we will need this as well. You would assume you have all you need from the kit and that is something I feel either IFIX include the flat head or add a note to require that when ordering.

Anand Parthasarathy -

@gadgetag That's a fair point! I've passed your comments along to our tool development team, and they're already working on an update for the fix kit. Hope the lack of a flathead didn't trip you up too much. Thanks for your feedback!

Jeff Suovanen -

My device didn’t have the standoff screw.

Dan Thorson - Réponse

Mine didn´t either

Renan Sesti -

Never use the pointy end of the spuger to put back the standoff screw in place. It can break off some plastic in the hole since it’s threaded inside and you will have major problem to remove it. If the standoff scew isn’t tight enough when you put it back on, it’s not a big deal since you will put another screw in its center at the end of the rebuild and you will be able to tighten both screws at that point. Just don’t use the spudger to put it back on. That standoff screw is a poor concept.

Mathieu Paquette - Réponse

Just a side note; I understand the list of tools required for this job includes a “Flathead 3/32” or 2.5 mm Screwdriver,” but wanted to mention that a Wera 2.5 mm diver is too thick (0.4 mm) to do a good job of removing the standoff. With a fair amount of pressure I was able to make it work, but as others have pointed out, I would expect a 1.5 mm flathead driver to have a thinner head (0.23 mm from Wera) and be more suited to the task, barring having an actual standoff driver.

Kees Vermeulen - Réponse

Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever légèrement le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère, juste assez pour pouvoir le saisir avec vos doigts. Insérez le spudger au niveau de la protection métallique sous le tiroir de la carte SIM pour éviter d'endommager une puce ou une prise.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever légèrement le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère, juste assez pour pouvoir le saisir avec vos doigts.

    • Insérez le spudger au niveau de la protection métallique sous le tiroir de la carte SIM pour éviter d'endommager une puce ou une prise.

Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

Carter Christie - Réponse

Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

Jeffrey Dennis - Réponse

Soulevez la carte mère en tenant l'extrémité du connecteur de batterie et sortez-la du boîtier arrière. Faites attention de ne pas accrocher un des câbles avec la carte mère. Faites attention de ne pas accrocher un des câbles avec la carte mère.
  • Soulevez la carte mère en tenant l'extrémité du connecteur de batterie et sortez-la du boîtier arrière.

    • Faites attention de ne pas accrocher un des câbles avec la carte mère.

I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?

Dennis Gagomiros - Réponse

If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.

Lars Andersson - Réponse

good tip, to look at it sideways to confirm seating of connectors.

Christa -

5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?

swayanshu panda - Réponse

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially the power button and flash assembly connectors shown on Step 26.

MEHMET YILDIZ - Réponse

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially power button and flash connectors shown in Step 26 are tricky.

MEHMET YILDIZ - Réponse

6 cables to keep above the board when re-inserting: two on top left, one top right, three at the bottom.

Christa - Réponse

Décollez la première patte adhésive de la batterie sur le coin inférieur droit de la batterie.
  • Décollez la première patte adhésive de la batterie sur le coin inférieur droit de la batterie.

  • Utilisez votre doigt ou une pincette arrondie et faites extrêmement attention quand vous travaillez près de la batterie—percer une batterie lithium-ion peut libérer des produits chimiques dangereux et causer un incendie.

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Retirez doucement la patte adhésive de la batterie vers le bas de l'iPhone. N'essayez pas de tirer ni vers la batterie ni vers les composants inférieurs sinon vous pourriez casser la bande adhésive. Continuez à tirer, cela permet à la bande de glisser entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière. Quand vous sentez que la résistance de la bande augmente, arrêtez  de tirer et continuez avec l'étape suivante.
  • Retirez doucement la patte adhésive de la batterie vers le bas de l'iPhone.

    • N'essayez pas de tirer ni vers la batterie ni vers les composants inférieurs sinon vous pourriez casser la bande adhésive.

  • Continuez à tirer, cela permet à la bande de glisser entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière. Quand vous sentez que la résistance de la bande augmente, arrêtez de tirer et continuez avec l'étape suivante.

  • Si les bandes adhésives de la batterie se cassent à n'importe quel moment du retrait, utilisez votre doigt ou une pincette arrondie pour récupérer le reste d'adhésif et continuez à tirer.

    • Si une des bandes adhésives casse sous la batterie pendant cette procédure et ne peut plus être récupérée, enlevez la bande restante et suivez l'Étape 44.

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Quand vous sentez augmenter la résistance de la bande adhésive, faites-la passer délicatement autour du coin inférieur droit de la batterie. Continuez à tirer la patte adhésive vers le haut et loin du bord droit de la batterie, lui permettant de glisser doucement entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière, jusqu'à ce que la bande se détache de l'iPhone. Empêchez la bande adhésive de s'accrocher au connecteur de la batterie sinon elle pourrait se déchirer ou se rompre.
  • Quand vous sentez augmenter la résistance de la bande adhésive, faites-la passer délicatement autour du coin inférieur droit de la batterie.

  • Continuez à tirer la patte adhésive vers le haut et loin du bord droit de la batterie, lui permettant de glisser doucement entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière, jusqu'à ce que la bande se détache de l'iPhone.

  • Empêchez la bande adhésive de s'accrocher au connecteur de la batterie sinon elle pourrait se déchirer ou se rompre.

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Détachez la seconde patte adhésive du coin inférieur gauche de la batterie. Tirez délicatement la patte adhésive de la batterie vers le haut et loin de la batterie, cela va permettre à la bande adhésive de glisser doucement en dehors en passant entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière.
  • Détachez la seconde patte adhésive du coin inférieur gauche de la batterie.

  • Tirez délicatement la patte adhésive de la batterie vers le haut et loin de la batterie, cela va permettre à la bande adhésive de glisser doucement en dehors en passant entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière.

  • Continuez à tirer la patte adhésive jusqu'à ce que vous sentez augmenter la résistance, puis arrêtez.

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Quand vous sentez augmenter la résistance de la bande adhésive, faites-la passer délicatement autour du coin inférieur gauche de la batterie.
  • Quand vous sentez augmenter la résistance de la bande adhésive, faites-la passer délicatement autour du coin inférieur gauche de la batterie.

  • Empêchez la bande adhésive de s'accrocher au coin de la batterie, sinon elle pourrait se déchirer ou se rompre.

  • Continuez à tirer la patte adhésive vers le haut et et en dehors par le coin gauche de la batterie, lui permettant de glisser doucement entre la batterie et le boîtier arrière, jusqu'à ce qu'elle se détache de l'iPhone.

    • Si vous avez enlevé les deux bandes adhésives avec succès, sautez les deux étapes suivantes et continuez à l'Étape 46.

    • Si l'une ou les deux des bandes adhésives s'est cassée en dessous de la batterie et ne peut plus être récupérée, continuez avec l'étape suivante.

im so confused, with the whole battery thing, do you use the same battery? or a new on? because the tabs i saw how u had to pull them off. will the battery will work without the glue tabs?

Kaylie McClain - Réponse

You can absolutely re-use your old battery, particularly if it's in good condition and holds a charge. You should replace the adhesive strips; there's a link to instructions a few steps below. The battery will work without the adhesive strips, but may rattle around inside your phone.

Jeff Suovanen -

Si une des bandes adhésives s'est rompue et que la batterie reste collée au boîtier arrière, préparez un iOpener ou utilisez un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer le boîtier arrière directement derrière la batterie.
  • Si une des bandes adhésives s'est rompue et que la batterie reste collée au boîtier arrière, préparez un iOpener ou utilisez un sèche-cheveux pour chauffer le boîtier arrière directement derrière la batterie.

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Insérez une carte en plastique sous la batterie près des bords de la carte mère.
  • Insérez une carte en plastique sous la batterie près des bords de la carte mère.

  • Faites attention à garder la carte aussi plat que possible pour empêcher la batterie de se plier, cela pourrait l'endommager et faire s'échapper des produits chimiques dangereux.

  • Appuyez la carte sur des points différents si nécessaire pour morceler l'adhésif derrière la batterie.

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Après avoir décollé ou enlevé toutes les bandes adhésives, enlevez la batterie de l'iPhone.
  • Après avoir décollé ou enlevé toutes les bandes adhésives, enlevez la batterie de l'iPhone.

  • En remontant la batterie, référez-vous à ce guide pour remplacer les bandes adhésives de votre batterie.

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Enlevez les adhésifs qui couvrent la vis supérieure à gauche de la caméra arrière. Enlevez les adhésifs qui couvrent la vis supérieure à gauche de la caméra arrière.
  • Enlevez les adhésifs qui couvrent la vis supérieure à gauche de la caméra arrière.

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Enlevez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes de la fixation de la caméra arrière :
  • Enlevez les vis cruciformes #00 suivantes de la fixation de la caméra arrière :

    • une vis 1,5 mm

    • une vis 2,1 mm

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Enlevez la fixation de la caméra arrière. Enlevez la fixation de la caméra arrière.
  • Enlevez la fixation de la caméra arrière.

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Enlevez délicatement le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne du boîtier arrière. Enlevez délicatement le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne du boîtier arrière.
  • Enlevez délicatement le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne du boîtier arrière.

Anyone know what the Antenna Interconnect does? I replaced my rear housing with a clear plastic one I ordered from someone off DHGate, and they didn't have the screw mount for that interconnect, so I wasn't able to re-attach it. I couldn't figure out what it does, and the phone seems to work without putting that screw back in. I'm suspicious that bracket must do SOMETHING, right?

ben - Réponse

Just conjecturing but it has a capacitor on it and must connect a transmitter chip to an antenna. Your phone would work without it but I would expect its range would be reduced.

Doug Whyte - Réponse

Enlevez la caméra arrière de l'iPhone. Enlevez la caméra arrière de l'iPhone.
  • Enlevez la caméra arrière de l'iPhone.

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Enlevez la vis cruciforme #00 qui sécurise la fixation du flash.
  • Enlevez la vis cruciforme #00 qui sécurise la fixation du flash.

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Enlevez la fixation du flash du boîtier arrière. Enlevez la fixation du flash du boîtier arrière.
  • Enlevez la fixation du flash du boîtier arrière.

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Enlevez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 2,2 mm de la fixation du bouton de marche.
  • Enlevez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 2,2 mm de la fixation du bouton de marche.

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Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser délicatement le flash et le microphone en dehors de leurs cavités respectives dans le boîtier arrière. Si vous avez affaire à de l'adhésif fort, utilisez une pincette pour décoller les composants du boîtier arrière. Si vous avez affaire à de l'adhésif fort, utilisez une pincette pour décoller les composants du boîtier arrière.
  • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser délicatement le flash et le microphone en dehors de leurs cavités respectives dans le boîtier arrière.

  • Si vous avez affaire à de l'adhésif fort, utilisez une pincette pour décoller les composants du boîtier arrière.

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En commençant  par l'extrémité du connecteur, détachez du boîtier arrière l'ensemble du câble flash/microphone/bouton de marche. Continuez à décoller le câble, en faisant particulièrement attention aux extrémités étroites des composants du câble. Retirez le câble du flash/microphone/bouton de marche de l'iPhone.
  • En commençant par l'extrémité du connecteur, détachez du boîtier arrière l'ensemble du câble flash/microphone/bouton de marche.

  • Continuez à décoller le câble, en faisant particulièrement attention aux extrémités étroites des composants du câble.

  • Retirez le câble du flash/microphone/bouton de marche de l'iPhone.

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Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.

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Sam Lionheart

Membre depuis le 18/10/2012

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Thanks! This is helpful!

Luke L - Réponse

This helped out a lot, couldn't find a good enough photo on how the power button was put back on its mount.

alexkasper16 - Réponse

Took me 2.5 hours to complete this. Had a hard time getting the factory cable connector off the power button. Used some 3M Double Sided Adhesive tape- 2mm width, Black color to hold the new replacement cable connector in place on the power button. An IFIXIT video showing how to install the connector onto the power switch would be a big help. Had to use a You-Tube video to complete that step. Also, a good reminder to ensure all your connector cables are clear when reinstalling the logic board. You definitely don't want to pinch any of them. Follow the directions carefully and patience is a must! Wasn't that hard for my first time replacing this flex cable.

ronjon40 - Réponse

***PRO TIP*** Order a part that already has the metal bracket attached for a few cents more and save yourself the hassle. I buy all my parts on eBay because of their awesome buyer protection and sellers always want to keep a good rating.

GotMac - Réponse

I think I got a broken cable. Can someone help me with that?

It looks like this: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1...

Is it broken and can I fix it? Or is this normal and what to do?

Katrin Kohler - Réponse

I’ve talked to an expert and he told me, my cable is broken for sure. So frank, thanks for you help, I’ll use it with my new ordered (and hopefully not broken) cable. :)

Katrin Kohler -

Katrin the cable you received looks fine, you just have to pull the OLD Broken cable apart/off of the metal power button assembly. That was the exact part I was stumped on not 30mins ago. Good luck :)

Also this is a very helpful and great guide, thank you!!

frank s - Réponse

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