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Modèle de fin 2011, A1278 / processeur i5 de 2,4 GHz ou i7 de 2,8 GHz.

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High temperature after applying new thermal paste

Hi! After spilling beer in my laptop, I disassembled my whole macbook in order to give the logic board an alcohol bath. With success! The laptop is starting up again.

However I also removed the heatsink and applied new thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5 ).

The problem is that when turning the laptop on, after 1 minute, the fan begins blowing full speed, making loud noise, and immediately feels heated.

Could this issue be that I didn't apply the taste correctly, or something in the software?

-I used isoproyl alcohol to clean the old thermal paste off with a simple microfiber cloth on both the heatsink and cpu.

-I simply dropped a little bit of new paste on the CPU, then spread it out with my finger wrapped in a plastic sandwich bag. It looked like all spread even, however I'm not sure if the amount was right, it was very little. But at least the whole surface was covered. Is that enough? Or does it need to be thicker?

-I didn't put anything on the heatsink.

-I did only use the microfiber cloth. Every now and then there was some dust going on the CPU but every time I brushed it off with the cloth and a big drip of isopropyl.

When I heard the fan go so loud right away, I turned off the computer because I was scared of destroying the CPU when it gets so hot for doing nothing.

Thanks a lot.

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I am having very similar issues - after applying new thermal paste, the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, my temps are consistantly 10 degrees higher on the CPU's (with fans at full speed), and anywhere from 10 to 40 degrees higher with the fan on "automatic".

I don't recall ever seeing my CPU temps hit 190 - but after the thermal paste install, at 190 degrees, I turned the fan to 100% (6,200 rpm) and it has leveled off at about 115. (((As compared to 100 before))).

I didn't think they Kryonaut had a 'break in' period, and I had seen consistent reviews indicating that the Thermal Grizzly was superior to the Arctic Silver 5.

Any feedback on this one? @jimfixer


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It should be very thin but not so thin that it doesn't cover the processor . Sounds like you did everything right, what temps were you running and how long did you run it before shutting it down . Don't worry about cooking your processor the laptop will shut itself down before that happens . There is a break in period for thermal paste. It kinda heats up and melts out a bit before setting into place. Just because your fan ran fast on startup it could be just a momentary condition . Let it run a few minutes and check your cpu temps a safe temp range is from 80 - 175F it will probably grey out at 190 but I have seen a mac at 212 and still running

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This is a complete non sequitur to discuss thermal compounds in the context of liquid damage. EVEN if you were right ... IF it's in fact a " BOTH of you" scenario that both of you? discussing this issue had spills preceding your higher "temperatures/fans" after a spill which was cured by focusing on the thermal compound... and solved it by doing so? Please, if you've spilled crap on your computer and upon it being "fixed" it has high fans... don't look to the thermal paste as.... "The Problem."

To the gentleman who thought this -- (if I understand correctly) "high fans were caused by the thermal paste" -- ?? And holy crap; IF you were magically "right" ...?

For the other 95% of people who'd be wrong to follow this assumption that thermal paste, and not a physical problem -- after your Retina had a draaank? No. It's not the thermal paste... and if it is?? Please just move this to somewhere in a discussion of EXCLUSIVELY thermal paste.

This here is a conflation between solving liquid damage with thermal compound behavior per type of thermal compound and each respective MBP / MBPr / MBA etc.

My condescension is because I find the presumption to be absurdity; a beer spilled on a computer's NOT the problem...? No no -- it's... the THERMAL paste.

Eye Roll.

Eyebrows on the back of my head.

SERIOUSLY!? Fur rills?

If I may suggest to others... and try this again. Operating on the assumption that, if not the author of this post, others of you have given your Mac a drank, here's my approach and also, a silly little pet peeve of mine... in that, we have to restart laptops and option boot about 100x per day collectively; so wasting 20 seconds every time feels like an (avoidable) eternity.

Did you check to see if any of the components with thermal sensors - or the cables which connected components with thermal sensors were damaged?

Obviously, corrosion, shorts, brittle transistors, fuses, ICs... that's just a given.

If you see no, but still hear some -- evil...? (fans)

Running the ASD downloadable on your machine for those who either want to DIY

... or are too cheap to bring it somewhere truly adept and stocked with parts to test and repair liquid damaged machines!. If your computer shut down from liquid - you think you've fixed it... and then turn it on? You might now burn out your display trying to verify this. We have CRACKED displays we give not a sh*t about -- which we would test your unit on to verify if there's a problem that'd kill a display. Sometimes -- we've had displays that kill logic boards! If you're SURE you're SURE that you want to play with your $1000+ unit? Here ya go.

- Turning off your computer (100% OFF off)

- Power it on, but press NOTHING until it's truly on. (See below, "Actually On!")

- hold D as soon as it HAS, truly, turned on.

- Select a network to get Apple's diagnostic image (NOT recovery partition).

- check for any faults.

- Found none?

- Download your model's ASD

- Find installation instructions (usually for a USB drive) and option-boot from it.

- Found none?? - Buy a parts unit, replace the Trackpad, TP Cable, etc.

High fans after liquid spill being blamed immediately on freaking THERMAL COMPOUND??? Kinda wishful thinking.

"Actually On"

Some of you may see clearly -- a white image appear on your display once your computer's turned on. This is perhaps the pre Sierra (or maybe El Cap) style of turning on. Some of your computer's turn on with a screen that's almost as black as the black it is when off. If you look very very closely (especially hard in a bright room or bright lights directly behind your display) you'll see it turn ever so slightly grey; it's just been powered by the backlight. NOW it's on. And now, whether its when it turned white for those of you whom it does -- or turned gray, for those of you which it doesn't! Is when you should start holding down whichever feature you want to invoke to supercede your standard/default power-on process.

Remember -- it may not chime! Chime can be disabled it via terminal, or, if the volume is down/off, NO CHIME. But if it DOES chime, again, this marks when to initiate your default startup command which INTERVENES with your standard startup process!

Pressing anything before your computer's responded to power by either audibly, visibly, or both... will elongate the time it takes for your computer TO power on... after hitting the power button.

I.e., IF YOU HOLD THE OPTION BUTTON (or any actionable button/combination)



It will take noticeably, substantially longer to actually chime/start.


- holding option to option-boot in to a different device than default

- going to single user mode

- Diagnostics

This could be a black screen (updated EFI) turning ever so slightly gray, virtually invisible in a bright room... or, in the 2012/2013 EFI's mode, bright and white or even white and chiming, negating the need to watch carefully. Doesn't matter... all the same thing. WAIT FOR IT TO RESPOND TO POWER... Then... use your action key (key combo) and you won't get the penalty for doing so.





This will save about 30 seconds of 'hunting on a black or white screen' prior to the Apple logo coming up, which indicates having found a viable boot option and using it.



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Are you the blog and thread Police? Move your post? Idiot!


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