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Model A1311 / Late 2009 / 3.06 or 3.33 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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Does this power supply look ok to you?

The power supply in this iMac A1311 EMC 2308 doesn't look healthy to me.

I know the logic board isn't working. I get power when I hit the button but just a black screen. Nothing on external display. Is this normal for the capacitors to look like this?

Block Image

Power supply 1

Block Image

Power supply 2

Update (12/21/2017)

I'm ordering a logic board. I didn't know they had two variations of the same part: one with graphics slot one integrated. I have good luck and got the integrated (listing didn't indicate type) so I'll be getting one with graphics slot soon.

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The tan stuff is potting used to help dampen the ringing. Other than dust from these images it looks OK to me.

par

The low end model had the integrated GPU, the more powerful models have the MXM GPU card. Depending on what you buy it may not have the GPU mounted!

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Solution retenue

You may want to review the onboard diagnostic LED's which is very close to the same location as this system: iMac Intel 24" EMC 2134 and 2211 Diagnostic LED's Jump to Step7. Let us know what LED's are lit.

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I'll use a multimeter later and see what it measures.

I was looking on the logic board for the diagnostics led's. There is nothing on the board like this. They are easy to identify on the picture above and in apple technician manual. There are no visible led's that light up. It doesn't appear to me this board has them?

par

They maybe covered with some black tape and a bit more to the right from where this model has them.

par

Dumb black tape. :) I measured 11.95 volts to pin #4 on board. This corresponds to led #1 being on with power cord connected.

I have to put heat sinks etc back on to turn on later to see how many led's come on.

par

LEDS 1 + 2 are lit. Pin #11 had 11.91 volts with voltmeter. External display didn't work before. Reset PRAM/SMC already. Points to graphics card/logic board according to technician manual.

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The way to test the power supply is to take a multimeter across the DC output, and see what it reads, then compare it to the expected output. If they are within .05 Volts of each other it's fine.

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mcavil sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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