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Hybrid laptop/tablet manufactured by Microsoft. Released November 2017.

Questions au sujet de 16 Voir tout

request teardown of surfacebook 15"

who do i reach to get that?

the sb2 13” is primitive, and as far as i can tell (from showcase images of sb15 with glass frame), 15” has more complex layout

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thats just the base

i dont feel the tablet is worth the risk rn.

tools required:

a double edge razor so squeeze between the base plate and the body

a hairdryer (safer than hot air rework station)

a plastic knife to pry

a t4 screw driver

4-5 hours of work

double edge razor is also really effective at removing leftover double sided tape.

when prying, appropriate heat and patience will make sure that you dont bend the backplate. both batteries are surrounded by double sided tape.

the usb board overlaps the gpu board, and needs to be pulled back, gently, amd then lift around 45 degree, and out. then take the gpu board out.

screws were alot, but no hidden ribbons that you can rip out (but 2 lvds at the top that can be cut if you use anything sharp, hence the plastic knife).

oh, and, theres this one lil screw thats besides the 2 usb ports, its head is small af, and it broke coz i tried to tighten it too tight. so for others, keep that in mind. its right btwn the memcard and usbA port

IF YOU ARE APPLYING LIQUID THERMAL, USE LESS THAN 1ML “ON A COTTON SWAB/Q-TIP" AND USE THE QTIP TO APPLY. “DO NOT APPLY DIRECTLY TO THE GPU DIE" even a tiny 0.5ml drop on swab was enough to cover the die. even lesser was needed to cover the heatsink.

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Wow you actually did it. Great courage and effort

par

i'm contemplating if the tablet portion is worth the risk.

glass is flexible but not as flexible as i'd like

par

is it possible to remove and replace the gpu itself?

par

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You can check this video to tear down https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8n05oYQ...

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Not what he asked.

par

the girl's cute but thats as far as it goes, in terms of that video's helpfulness.

par

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I was trying to find one as well, however nobody on the whole Internet seem to have done this. These are all I can find, from Microsoft showcase events. Source link: https://hothardware.com/reviews/microsof...

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GTX 1060 base board with heatsink and dual fan, with battery bottom plate.

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Upper system board with heatsink, the interesting part is that the system was designed with 2 fans, later it was determined that one would suffice. Note that the fan and board are upside down. Actual layout is electronics face away from the screen and the fan is at the left. The flat plate heat spreader with ram horn style heatsink is interesting. SSD is swappable, the rest is soldered onto the board.

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yup, thats what i was referring to as "showcase images of sb15 with glass frame"

those still aren't accurate as im sure the boards are facing away from the screen. hence, only meant for showcase.

**nvm reread that

excuse my inner millennial.

par

wait, nvm i didnt fully read that but yea, an actual teardown would be lovely..

par

i must admit, these are 2 very descriptive pictures. do you think the heat sink is aluminium or copper/nickel plated? im tempted to use liquid metal but risk is currently outweighing the gain, without knowledge of the heatsink's material

par

Risk definitely outweighs gain. You risk cracking the screen, ruining the antennas, the screen tend to fall off after reassembly because you can't find the right adhesive set to replace. Also the cooling is mostly adequate anyway. Based on the coloring, the heatsink seems to be bare cooper.

par

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post-base teardown

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Actually from my usage I felt the base cooling is mostly adequate. The bottleneck here is power supply and in some occasions, PCIe 3.0 x4 connection.

par

can you use furmark for me at best performance, plugged in and see how far down the gpu throttles after 15-20min?

i never tested it before applying liquid metal :p

par

like what mhz does the gpu clock stablize at with stock paste @tomchai

par

I wasn't able to get to thermal cap, cap reason were either idle or power, what resolution and AA setting are you using for Furmark? What is your room temperature?

par

My setting is 1080P, 8X AA, battery 90% charged, plugged in wall socket and set to best performance. GPU starts at 1500-1400, slowly drops to 1300-1200, don't see further drops but no thermal capping either.

par

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oh, and, theres this one lil screw thats besides the 2 usb ports, its head is small af, and it broke coz i tried to tighten it too tight. so for others, keep that in mind. its right btwn the memcard and usbA port

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tools required:

a double edge razor so squeeze between the base plate and the body

a hairdryer (safer than hot air rework station)

a plastic knife to pry

a t4 screw driver

4-5 hours of work

double edge razor is also really effective at removing leftover double sided tape.

when prying, appropriate heat and patience will make sure that you dont bend the backplate. both batteries are surrounded by double sided tape.

the usb board overlaps the gpu board, and needs to be pulled back, gently, amd then lift around 45 degree, and out. then take the gpu board out.

screws were alot, but no hidden ribbons that you can rip out (but 2 lvds at the top that can be cut if you use anything sharp, hence the plastic knife).

IF YOU ARE APPLYING LIQUID THERMAL, USE LESS THAN 1ML “ON A COTTON SWAB/Q-TIP" AND USE THE QTIP TO APPLY. “DO NOT APPLY DIRECTLY TO THE GPU DIE" even a tiny 0.5ml drop on swab was enough to cover the die. even lesser was needed to cover the heatsink.

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I just opened up one of the keyboard units because a friend spilled coffee in it. A handful of guitar picks worked well for the adhesive around the perimeter - they're very thin and stiff, and I could leave one in the middle of each edge so it wouldn't fall back together. I used the wedge end of an ifixit black spudger (long like a pencil) to separate the long pieces of adhesive alongside the trackpad.

par

So after getting the SB2 open and cleaning it up with isopropyl (the coffee had cream and sugar, just to add to the difficulty) I got it to function completely except for charging the tablet unit through the base - a few wires (the inboard one or two, closest to the center) on each of the connectors appears to have turned into fuses and burned through. It *may* be that the wires are just fused in the connector receptacle, and we may try to bridge them later, but that's a much more difficult job. The main board in the keyboard unit does come out with the fans attached - no need to remove them unless you need to replace one.

par

The pushbutton to separate didn't work at first, and I had to order a new connector harness from ebay for about $40. After replacing that, the separation works again without having to use a safety pin. That connector comes of by removing two screws from the *outside* side of base - you can easily lift the narrow cover strip with a guitar pick. I took the hinge apart before I learned that. A tip when removing the hinge- the caps that have the threads for each stage of the hinge are just pressed on and come off with a little wiggle. They're identical, but the hinge housings are not, so keep them in order.

To reglue the back I masked off the whole back except for where the adhesive goes and sprayed it with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, let that dry for 10 minutes, then pressed into place.

par

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Where could we get the second fan if we wanted to add it? and would it be possible?

My current problem with my Surface book 2 15’ is that it overheats even when browsing if I have it at max performance. So I have been wanting to repaste with a liquid metal or just better thermal paste. Just scared at hard it is to open. But it’s either that or pay $650 for a replacement and I don’t have that kind of money. So if I am able to repaste why not add the second fan for better cooling and the possibility of overclocking a little.

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you can but it isnt worth it. the base is easy to open, and u can do liq. metal on it for gpu performance. for the tablet and the cpu, ive tried adding a 2nd fan and it works (fan from surfacebook 1 and jus splitting the already existing connection). but theres drawbacks to it. first, you will, more likely than not, break the screen, coz i did. 2nd, the splitting of wiring thats soo tiny is time consuming. 3rd, liquid metal to the tablet will make the heat spread out on the screen, so even though the cpu stays cooler than before, the screen gets really warm and the writting on it becomes annoying.

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