LG WM3150HVC Fronload Washer went dead. Please see history.

My machine is actually an LG - I didn’t see that option, so I just used whatever.

Anyhow, I have a WM3150HVC frontload washer that died. No power at all. I have been without a washer for far too long, and the laundromat is eating our finances alive!! Finally, (280 dollars later), I received and installed the correct PCB and poof! Heard that awful pop and the machine shut back down :( My heart sunk!! So, it appears to have a blown fuse in the PCB (just like the original board), and it is now a mere 280 dollar paper weight. 

So, I just ordered a new noise filter hoping that’s the issue (even though the original does not appear to have a bad fuse, per the multimeter)l. I also went ahead and ordered a new pump. We did have some issues with the pump (error codes) during long washes before it died, so we stuck to short washes until the machine went kaput altogether. 

I have checked all the wires all the way down and there does not appear to be any damage. I have not used the multimeter in the lower area because my husband said he wants to do that (something about the meter “exploding in my hands,” that was all I needed to hear), so I will let him do that. All wires up top checked out ok, though. 

Is there anything else I should replace so I don’t short another fuse? We plan to just bypass the original fuse (since it is not a removable fuse, it is fixed in place in the “silicone pool”), replace the noise filter, replace the pump, and replace one button that seemed to have broken on the front panel (it’s plastic…the springy part inside broke, and also curious if this could have caused a short)…and then pray.

I cannot spend another day at the laundromat - I would rather stick a fork in my eye. Can anyone please tell me if I am on the right track, or if there is anything else I am missing??? Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much, Mayer!! I will do that tomorrow before hubby puts new parts on, and then have him double check. The pump is going to require us to have to remove the entire front of the washing machine (ugh), so maybe we can check the wire to the pump easier…it could be bad. I forgot to mention that on long washes, we did have leakage at the bottom where the pump is at, in addition to the error codes. We had no issues on the quick wash, which is what we used mostly. If we tried to do any heavy, long washes, we usually ended up with a small pool of water in the bottom drawer or an error code.

Also, can anyone shed light on why the pump “hose/valve” never had water in it to drain. The only way we could get water to drain from the pump would be by opening the big valve to the pump (if any of this makes sense).

Thanks again for your reply!!

Thank you so much, again, Mayer. We do have a small hole in the boot and will order one of those today. I wonder if the water that’s been leaking caused the problem below.

As my husband was attempting to replace the water pump, he noted above the pump (and slightly to the right, right underneath the opening of the door of the washer) that 2 of the wires looked burnt! This could explain why the fuse to the main board got fried, but not the noise filter, as that fuse is still good.

Also, as he was working on the pump, I purchased and used a fuse holder and managed to bypass the original blown fuse on the old main board and make it work!!

As I was writing this, my husband mentioned “heat or steam thermistor.” We’re going to look into that and do another update.

Can’t thank you enough for all of your help!