Réparez vos affaires Communauté Boutique

Processeur quad-core Intel Core i7 à 2,2 GHz (Turbo Boost jusqu'à 3,4 GHz), 2,5 GHz (Turbo Boost jusqu'à 3,7 GHz), ou 2,8 GHz (Turbo Boost jusqu'à 4,0 GHz) avec 6Mo de cache L3 partagé.

773 questions Voir tout

Options

Replaced DC-in board but charger wont still work?

Hello!

I’m sitting here with my 15” MacBook Pro Retina from mid 2015.

I had a bad cloned charger which started to act weird. It could get overheated and it kinda got burned. My DC-In board output had starting to look burned, black on the outer pins.

I had to kinda “try different angels” when connecting the MagSafe to the MacBook, to get the Green MagSafe LED to appear.

Once or twice the MacBook would shut down from nowhere when I tried to get the MagSafe light charge (appear green light).

After a few days the MacBook wouldn’t charge at all.

I immediately went and bought a new adapter (A ORIGINAL THIS TIME) stupid me…

BUT… When I came home it wouldn’t charge any more.

I ordered a replacement DC-In board.

I just now replaced the DC-In board but the MacBook still wont charge.

Does anyone know what’s the next step is now? Or, if there is something I could try?

I’m REALLY desperate to fix this problem cause I got important work on my computer.

I sooooo thankful if there is anyone out there who got any ideas or tips for me.

(I’ve been googling around a lot too but I’m not the best at this.)

THANK YOU!

And sorry for my english, It’s not my first language!

Répondu ! Afficher la réponse J'ai le même problème

Cette question est-elle utile ?

Oui Non
Indice 0
Ajouter un commentaire

2 Réponses

Filtrer par :
Les plus utiles Les plus récentes Les plus ancien(ne)s
Solution retenue

Options

I’ve hardly seen DC in boards being the problem, they are mostly there as a first barrier against liquid damage I believe, but they don’t do much to prevent overvoltage or overcurrent getting to the board. Usually in such instances what gets damaged is the onewire circuit for protection or it goes to charging/main power line. Not much you can do, it would probably need a component level repair or board replacement.

Cette réponse est-elle utile ?

Oui Non
Indice 1
Ajouter un commentaire

Options

Take out your battery. Disconnect your DC-In and take voltage measurement to make sure that both of your new parts are working correctly. Or, you could just leave the DC-In connected to the unit and take voltage measurements. If you have proper voltage levels coming into the laptops circuit board, then more than likely there is component failure. Do a visual inspection for any obvious damage. Not really familiar with Mac stuff, but some computers can have fuses in the power supply area.

If you see a component on the circuit board labeled "F1" or similar that may indicated the presence of a fuse. Make sure you battery is removed and check for continuity across the fuse's terminal if one is present. A low reading on the continuity or resistance (ohms) settings on your multimeter would possibly indicate that the fuse was OK. A high reading, no change on the multimeter display or infinity symbol would indicate that the fuse has done it's job and gone "open circuit" or put another way, there is no continuity through the device any longer.

This is an outline of the basic checks to be made at the beginning of trying to troubleshoot a device.

Cette réponse est-elle utile ?

Oui Non
Indice 0
Ajouter un commentaire

Ajouter une réponse

Me H sera éternellement reconnaissant.
Nombre de vues :

Dernières 24 heures : 0

7 derniers jours : 1

30 derniers jours : 1

Total : 115