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Model A1347 with 2.4 or 2.66 GHz Core 2 Duo Processor.

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Mac Mini 2010 doesn't boot anymore


I'm trying to repair a mid-2010 Mac Mini (A1347, EMC 2364) for a friend.

There was a power cut while he was using it, and he could no longer power it on.

I first thought about the power supply, but I was able to read 12V with my multimeter.

Is there common hardware issues that I could check (a fuse?) before I try to change the motherboard?


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I know next to nothing about these units but the following seems to suggest there might be a couple more areas you may want to research before attempting any hardware repairs:

Still getting EFI error tones after replacing PRAM battery

This may or may not be of use.

Mac mini Mid 2010 Repair

If considering doing hardware repairs to the unit, you might as well just go ahead and open it to check voltages, fuse presence, a visual inspection for damaged components/traces, cold/cracked solder joints or loose connectors. At least you are one step of most of the participants asking actually own a multimeter! lol :-)

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I own more than a multimeter, I already repaired some devices :)

The repair guide was useful to open it, that's how I was able to check the power supply.

It shows no signs of life (no tones nor LED), and I couldn't find something obvious when I inspected the motherboard.

Is there a document listing fuses and test points?


@misscat Please note that unless you use the Reply function (which for some BS reason is hidden unless you cursor over the message you are replying to) your new information gets added as a comment rather than a direct reply to the participant you are supposedly replying to; if this action is taken, then the participant does not receive any notification(s) that there are any replies. The only reason I am able to reply to you right now is due to me noticing that more info had been added to the topic and not from any direct notification that someone had replied to me. As for schematics, I just usually do a search of Google Images to see if anything turns up; if not I try tracing the voltages/continuity via my multimeter for the most part. Good luck with your repairs. :-)


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