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Model A1181: 1.83, 2, 2.1, 2.13, 2.16, 2.2, or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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Broken temperature sensor on logic board.

Thank you in advance for your help!

I was trying to clean up the inside of my Macbook since the fan was making a strange noise going up to 6000 RPM.

I followed this guide: Link text

but at step 15 I had a problem. I tried to pull up the first temperature sensor from the bottom...I had some struggle until it came out.

Finally it came along but, together with the cable and connector, fell down also the female connector that was attached to the logic board!

It seemed that the male connector was glued onto the female one.

It this a temperature sensor? Do you think I can replace it in some way or I can even let it disconnect?

However the Macbook powers up and on iStat I have both readings for temperatures of CPU and CPU VR (respectively 66 Celsius and 57 Celsius / 150 and 125 Fahrenheit).

Thank you so much!

Matteo

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I also disconnected the temperature sensors from the logic board while performing the same ifixit guide, and yet, like Matteo, my computer appears to be reading the temperature just fine, despite those sensors being disconnected. Very strange.

Since it's been a few years since the original question was posted, I'd be curious to hear what the result was from letting the computer continue to run as usual with those cables disconnected.

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Solution retenue

It sounds like you broke the connector. You will have to solder it back on and hope you did not damage the pads or replace the motherboard.

If you can solder it, give that a try before buying a motherboard. These MacBook boards are not cheap, so it's worth attempting to recover them if you can do it. The downside is these are SMD parts, so it will be tough.

If you do not want to replace the board, use something like SMC Fan Control to do it manually. Motherboards for this model can be found online relatively easily these days, but it's usually the cost of a working MacBook at this point.

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Just take it to an old tech with soldering experience. He'll probably charge you $20

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I agree with mayer. A very experienced electrical engineer friend of mine has repaired these sorts problems on logic boards I've purchased on eBay. Back then I had no soldering experience, but now I can do the same sort of thing. I don't think it would be that big of a deal. Of course, I would try detaching the male and female connectors. If you ever want to go back into the computer, you'll not want to continuously desolder and resolder that connector. lol Not to mention, the person who ends up resoldering the female connector is gonna need it separated to do the job.

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Thank you for your help! This morning I have reopened the case in order to clean the cores and put on some new thermal paste and I have looked more carefully to the temperature sensor we are talking about: it seems that both the connectors are connected to a single temperature sensor. Maybe they are redundant and this is the reason why I can still read CPU's temperature on iStat Menu.

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I have the same problem on my late 2007 White polycarbonate. Of the 2 temperature sensors, the one closest to the display originally had 1 "wall" of its base broken off. It was nerve shaking tedious as all get out trying to get that itty-bitty connector to stay in/on a (now) 3-wall base, and without snapping its itty-bitty cables! Hours, bright lighting, magnifying glass, me + every tiny tool I could muster up ... we all gathered in a room with a white floor & little more... in the likelihood that such a tiny piece would fall out of my hand and plummet to the floor AT LEAST a few times (and it did)!

Over time, wall by wall, the sensor base broke down, and this week, it's now officially non-existent. My poor connector is now homeless! And now, due to a liquid spill (my first ever, forever blemishing my lifelong (17-years of computer use) perfect record!), in addition to a cracked case (my 3rd), and 80% of my screws missing, a mag safe power adapter that's held together AND attached to the port with "white" duct tape (to match of course!), a battery that I no longer keep in its battery bay because it doesnt charge, and Chrome that I can't update due to apparent compatibility issues (I've upgraded from Tiger to to Snow Leopard to Lion 10.75), and MS Office that I bought from the Apple Store when I bought my Macbook with LoJack, but now can no longer use (not compatible with Lion *sigh*), plus the never-ending Flash problems, and Chrome's horrific resource-hogging "Pepper Flash" that I can always count on to get my fan roaring ... and now, after a Pepsi Big Gulp blanketed my keyboard top-to-bottom, left side-to-right side, my KB/trackpad are shot, the power button doesn't work/respond and my speaker is toast!! (I do animated video, ebook, smartphone, gps & kids app narration and was mid-project when the accident occurred). *ugh*

SOOOOOO I figured out that I can i gently touch a wire to the (now) empty base that housed the KB connector! Works like a charm! I saw/heard the fan start up and jumped for joy and I'm using it to type this! I haven't figured out how to power it down yet (will touching the wire also take care of that? Any ideas?)

And yet, despite all this (and more), my 2007 White Polycarbonate Macbook 13.3 A1181 keeps going and going and going! <3 It's obviously female!

A big heartfelt thank you to my L<3ve! I owe you a huge debt of gratitude. You have been my saving grace, my rock, my best friend and, again, I just wanna say "Thanks!" for always being there for me! Stay strong! And even though I see a new Macbook on the horizon, I'll just "use" it. You, on the other hand...you were my first and you will always be my baby! Now quiet down that fan a wee bit huh? Muah! xxoo

~Liz R, So Cal

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My Mag Pull 2 Female connector on my macbook pro 2014 mid year 15'' retina display needs to be replaced. How much for a Ifix it to do it, Its a 20-30 part but I read a lot of people would break another part while opening and messing w everything

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Matteo sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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