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Arctis 7 Steel Series original (2016) edition

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Any idea how to reattach the USB charging port to the main board?

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Should I try soldering the original chargin port back on, get a new one (which, where?), or is there some other solution (like connecting a cable to the main bord and having the charging port ouside of the case?)

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Hey mountain squirrel can you email me and please explain to me how you deatached the PCB I cant do it it is to hard to do my gmail is: troxyman33@gmail.com

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mountain squirrel …. this can be achieved by resoldering the component back in place. can follow this guide here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdhlGrPt...

any guide should do if you dont like this particular video. so long as the original port isnt damaged, you can use it. make sure to be gentle when cleaning your pads with new solder as they are probably damaged and you dont want to rip them off the board. if this occurs or need further assistance, post back here.

if you want to replace the port, youll want a micro female type b. make sure to match how many pins there are.

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how many pins are there?

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so having de-soldered this, the exact port is

micro usb b female

6.4mm (distance between legs)

2 leg

5 LONG pin

FLAT mouth

Good luck finding one!

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Where can i find one who is right!? Have the same problem… need to order one

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Does anyone know what specific code or type of usb port this is? I have bought a pair of these headphones at a market without the port and would like to try and fix them

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usb female type c

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I just bought a adafruit li-oh charger and connected to the battery. Charger is so small so you can attach it direct on the phones :)

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I just finished doing this for my pair. This was my first time soldering something other than wires together, so don't feel too intimidated. In case anyone else finds this through google like I did:

  1. Use a heat gun for about 30 seconds to remove the port. Use a heat shield for all the surrounding components. If you don't have one then you can wrap in aluminum foil.
  2. Use solder wick to remove all the solder on the pads and the 5 pin contacts. Carefully reapply solder to the 5 pin contacts.
  3. You can find replacement ports on Amazon. I do not know exactly which size/type of port you will need since there are so many, however this pack included one that looks almost exactly the same and fits no problem: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B089...
  4. I used 0.4mm solder, add some to the pins on the port before mounting back on the board.
  5. You will want some kind of smaller C clamp to hold it in place, I didn't have one and used a basic clamp that made this significantly more difficult. Make sure the pins are lined up correctly.
  6. After clamping, you should be able to solder the port back onto the board without too many issues. It's a little difficult getting solder onto the pads but if you're patient it will work ok.
  7. Once you have soldered the port on, use the heat gun to melt the solder on the pins and secure the connections.
  8. Test the connection, you may need to add some solder to the pins still. If you do be cautious. It's very easy to put on too much and the solder will connect 2 pins together. If that happens use solder wick to remove and reapply. You should be able to solder them without issues, just don't do too much.
  9. I was worried the places where I soldered onto the board weren't strong enough so I also bought a micro-USB to USB C adapter that I leave plugged into the port. More than likely it's unnecessary but since I'm a newbie I didn't want to risk it.

Hope this helps anyone else that needs to do the repair!

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Hi everyone

I don't have such problem (yet?) With my steelseries devices, but I just want to let you know to be very careful with buying damages steelseries devices, especially those with broken charging port, or cables cut.

Steelseries warranty requires the user to destroy their faulty device to get a replacement(break charging port for wireless devices, or cut cables for wired ones)

In the end you could fix a charging port, and realise this was not the only thing broken.

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The only way to get that back on is using a soldering gun like you mentioned in your question. Try not to get it too hot and try to stay away from the the main board. Getting the main board too hot can rest other things up as well.

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The micro usb port broke and took the solder pads with it. It has this daughterboard for the port and i was able to bypass the whole board, hardwire a cable in and get it charging again. Hope this helps anyone else, as this flimsy charging port seems to be common.

PS: the bastards used torx-security screws with the hollow tip holding plastic case together.

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Mountain Squirrel sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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