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Repair and disassembly guides for Kenmore Microwaves.

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-F6- is on the keypad and nothing works

My Kenmore Microwave model # 665.68681891 just stopped working and has an -F6- code on the keypad. The motor sounds like it is humming and trying to start when I close the door. I flipped the breaker but it didn't help.

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I followed the instructions and had to do several times but it worked. Thanks so much.

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When all else fails (we tried all of the suggestions mentioned) !!%@ the door and kind of slam it! It worked. :)

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Open the door and kind of slam it!

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I had the same exact problem. I disconnected the power for 5 minutes. After reconnecting power, it worked. Don't know if this will happen again but I hear the thermostat is the next likely problem if it is reoccurring.

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My Kenmore had the F-6, I tried several times to use the method above but it didn't work. I tried it the next day and no luck Today, I tried it several times for a couple of days but the F-6 was still there. Today, I tried it twice and nothing happened, the F-6 was still there. I tried it twice more and the last time, the F-6 was gone so I tried a bowl of water, it heated but the turntable wasn't working, so I pushed the turntable button, and alas it worked!

I had been looking at microwave ovens online to buy. Now, I won't have to, I am so happy for those instructions above, because they finally WORKED! Thanks for posting them!

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Rachel Beaver your 665 model number prefix means that it is made by Whirlpool. the Whirlpool error codes list F6 as a failure of the door switches. You could see if it works by gently lifting up and alternately pushing down on the door / handle. I believe the Whirlpool also has a diagnostics mode. You can enter it by:

"1.While pressing the CANCEL keypad:

a) Open the oven door.

b) Unplug the microwave oven for 2-seconds and plug it back in.

c) Release the CANCEL keypad and close the oven door. You will see the following display.

CHART

NOTE: The humidity sensor test results will appear on the display after 8-seconds.If the tests are successful, "OK " will be displayed. If one or more of the tests fail, "ERR " will be displayed.. 2.When a keypad is pressed, a number according to the test chart will be displayed. When no keypad is pressed, a blank "—" is displayed."

The sears manual refers to F6 error as a F6 —Microwave Relay Failure, which would explain why the motor is "humming" The relay is part of the PCB and may require you to get a new PCB. Again, try the diagnostics and see what it tells you. Whatever the cause may be, I strongly recommend that you get a qualified person to repair your microwave. Those things can kill you and are not really a good project for the DIY'er unless experienced with microwaves. Microwaves are very dangerous, they can still shock you even unplugged. Here is a site with great info. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Thank you!! Had to do the cycle 2 times but it worked!

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Tried 5 times but did not work.............=(

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Time to call a repair man. Any idea on cost??

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I didn't have much hope but I tried it 3 times and it worked!

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The -F6- code just displayed on our Kenmore. I did as the instructions above tell and the humming stopped,it went back to displaying the proper time,and I placed a bowl of Mac&Cheese in to test it. It works fine.The "Door Switch relay" is mentioned,I'm wondering is it going bad? Also,the door is slammed shut by the teenager in the house,as is everything else on hinges. Could the slamming of the door be part of the problem?

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Open and close the door a few times, it's a switch relay saying the door isn't closing right.

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Mine had the same code appear after running the oven which had not been used in 3 months. It heated up the food OK but then would not shutoff correctly. Still sounded like something was running after closing the door after removing the food. I opened the door again to stop it and noticed that F6 appeared on the screen and touching the keys on the touch pad would do nothing and with the door closed I could hear something humming, trying to run like the motor. I unplugged the oven and plugged it back in after a short time. Still did the same thing. I unplugged it again for a couple of hours and tried it again and it was OK. I think maybe it was a stuck door switch or relay. not sure but it is fixed. The house had been left for the winter in the low 50's so it was warming up at the time, this may have affected it also. Hope this helps someone like the above write ups helped me

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I also had an issue that started with certain rows of buttons not working. THAT issue was a broken connector for the flat ribbon cable from the touch pad. The original connector is no longer available but the fine people at Mouser electronics was able to give me a part number to a connector that works just as well; just under $10 with shipping. Then I got the F6. A slip of paper behind the control panel pointed a finger at a relay. IF the relay sticks it appears it can cause this issue. I unsoldered, removed, and ohms checked. IF it can stick, then banging it on a hard surface my "unstick" the contacts, which I did. I made sure I had the black and brown wires on the correct relay contacts, after soldering it back in and reinstalling. It now works fine. WHY? Not sure. I have been an electronics tech for over 45 years and some things are still a mystery. If it does it again, I am ordering a new relay.

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Same thing happened to me tonite. First, when the microwave was done heating the food, the noise it makes to signal it was done was odd, and then there was the humming noise, which turned out to be the thing that drives the microwave plate to go around...it was going around still after the heating time was up. I eventually put 11 seconds on the timer and let it cycle (run) those 11 seconds, and then everything was back to normal. I live in an apt. building, so I guess I'll call maint. and see if anyone else has had similar problems. I was glad I'd gotten it to stop, as I doubt I'd have gotten anyone to come and check it out at 3:00 a.m.!

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After it happened a second time, maintenance didn't even try to deal with the problem...just replaced the microwave with a new one.

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I had the F6 code on my Kenmore 665.61601100 microwave. I opened the door and unplugged it. When I plugged it back in I reset the time and it works……….for now

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I had the same problem. Microwave motor starting buzzing when I close the door and F6 error on my Kitchenaid over stove. I unplugged it overnight but it still did not work. I read about slamming the door, which I did several times, (cheaper than making a service call). It eventually worked. No news on how long this will last but keeping fingers crossed. Adding sledge hammer back to my appliance repair bag, just in case I encounter a similar problem in the future.

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Same thing here with a Kitchenaid KHMC1857BSS-1. Humming loud when door is closed. Open door and humming stops. Humming seemed like it was causing the unit to get warm. Hence I Opened door and then unplugged. Sat unplugged for hours. Did not change when plugged back in and tried. Followed the slamming of the door “trick” over and over and then voila it worked. Still a little nervous. What if it starts doing it again when no one is home? For now ok. Do I need to replace the control board? $150 isn’t bad - but finding someone to do it. Anyone else have it come back or replace their PCB ? Please advise.

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I’ve had the same thing happen. See the Interior and ventilation diagram on https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/2... site. The switches #10 ride on a cam #12 and are not lubricated and eventually wear to the point they don't close the switch properly. Slamming sometimes can finish the closure action, but is a short lived solution.

I fixed it before by adjusting the switch position and lubricating the cam surface. There are 3 switches between the upper and lower latches that can do this. The fix has lasted over 5 years on the switches I did. Back at it again though.

Update: I just finished troubleshooting the problem. This time it is a relay that has arc’d closed. Banging them may open them up, but is short lived solution too. There is not an arc suppression cap across the contacts in the design. The relay is in position 4903 and is part number OMIF-S-124LM for those electronically capable. The part is obsolete as of this date, so eBay is your best bet.

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Rachel Beaver sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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