Dash indicators flashing and won't start

I had the rear window problem and tried holding down the button while slamming the door. The rear window made buzzing sound and light started flashing but the window did not go down. I went to start the car again and my dash indicator lights come on as usual when turning the key to accessories and after 10 seconds they start to blink and then all go off except the battery, traction and oil lights. Very weird flashing sequence and alarms. Turning the key all the way nothing happens...like a dead battery but the battery reads 11 volts. Could a main fuse have blown from the rear window switch?

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Normal car battery voltage is around 12.5v, not 11v. You have options; try charging the battery at home, jump start with another car battery with jumper cables, use a portable boost pack or bring the battery to auto store selling car batteries where they're likely to have free battery testing. Examine both battery cable connections for corrosion. A solution of water and baking soda with a toothbrush will dissolve and neutralize dried battery acid.


@notbroken Thanks for the reply, really appreciate it. Since my original post I think I narrowed it down to a weak battery being caused by something draining the system but not totally sure. I took a multimeter and checked all fuses in engine fuse box and inside car and they all look good. Without my negative cable attached my battery is now reading around 10.5 volts...when I attach the cable it reads 7.5 volts and fluctuating between 7.5 and 8 volts. I started removing fuses and with all interior lights and audio and navigation system fuses removed the voltage stopped at around 7.65 and not moving. I am going to jump start it in the morning with a boost pack to see if it will kick over and continue running. If not then I am thinking I have a bad alternator. Not sure what else could load down the battery by 3 volts.


Before assuming something is draining the battery, jump start the engine. If the engine starts and runs, measure battery voltage as good alternators and a tight drive belt should output voltage to around 14.5vdc (above idle). Since you don't know if the battery is old and worn out, the best way to find out is from auto store battery testing, not measuring voltage with a multimeter since multimeters don't load down a battery. Store battery testers always puts a load on a battery where good batteries won't drop voltage below 11 volts. Reputable store testing can tell if a battery is good, marginal or near its end of life. Testing alternators too, in car or bench test.


I'm with F Dryer on this one. My F150 does similar crazy things when the battery is low- even though it still cranks successfully. Things get really wonky with all the new electronics, ECUs, etc when they don't get enough juice!


Check the battery. If it's bad then it'll need replaced because it can cause the electronics to go wonky in weird ways. If it's good then get it charged up. When you know you're battery is good and charged. Put it back in. Check DC amps when you do but make sure you give it some time to let everything settle once power is reconnected. Then Check your amp reading (make sure all lights are off! Including interior!) I can't remember the exact number but it should be less than 0.5 amps (though I'm pretty sure it should actually be lower... 0.05amps?) Anything more than this and you'll need to track down the drain. Easiest way is to start pulling fuses one at a time to see when the amps drop. Last vehicle I did this to was draining batteries overnight. Was something wrong inside the alternator. Replaced it and viola drain gone!


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