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Dyson V15 Detect stops after a few seconds with no indicators

I've had it for nearly 2 years. The problem occurs when I press the trigger—it runs for a few seconds and then stops (with its signature "wooump" sound). It repeats this 2-3 times before eventually working. However, now I can't get it to run for longer than a few seconds, even after several tries.

I’ve changed the filter and cleaned everything I can access. In some forums, I’ve read that it might be an issue with the "main body," (whatever that means) while others suggest it could just be a cracked trigger, which should be an easy fix.

Répondu ! Afficher la réponse J'ai le même problème

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How many of the capacitors are there in the v 15 as I have exactly the same problem have found them on line (upgraded that will do the job ) so just need to know how many to order many thanks Ian

par

I purchased a V15 Detect through Amazon and started having this issue even before the 2yr warranty was over(little over a year). I even registered in the iOS app and everything.

Dyson would not honor the warranty because I bought it through Amazon. Ge this... they recommended I buy a refurbished one instead of me having to pay for a new part for an old vacuum. INSANE!

par

Same thing happened to me. Amazon had me shipping the vacuum cleaner to a third-party repairer and when the third-party repairer declared it unrepairable, I got refunded for the unit and the shipping costs. What a waste!

Worst of all is that when I ran the search for a vacuum cleaner again this same Dyson appeared on top. But this time I new!

I went with the Samsung AI Jet Lite and I’ve got to say I’m much much more satisfied than I ever was with the Dyson. Obviously I miss the super cool dust laser, not other than that the Samsung is much more practical and thoughtful, and the build quality is miles ahead. The thing I liked less on my super premium Dyson was really the squeaky soft plastic everywhere. Oh, and the Samsung it’s less than half of the cost of the Dyson, that was a super plus too.

par

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Also note that I have since been able to fix the old motor. In short, the problem is the capacitors that stabilize the current for the motor windings (470μF, if I remember correctly). These seem to have been so close to spec, that a -10% degradation were enough to ripple the voltage supply to the extent that the controller assumes a battery drop and shuts off. My solution was to add another 3x10μF ceramic caps to the board (there is a bit of space there) and let them take the transient current.

IMHO this was under-engineering in Dyson's part, that they failed to design a sufficient margin for component degradation, cable+connector resistance as well as the battery's impedance. As if that were designed only for brand-new components.

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10 commentaires:

Any chance you can identify the capacitors and steps to replace them?

This problem seems to be an issue for many after reviewing the Dyson Community page.

https://community.dyson.com/general-disc...

Mine is doing the same thing. Turn it on ~10 times and after that it stays on.

par

This man literally is the only one in the WHOLE INTERNET to have figured out the problem. There isn’t a solution to this besides getting a new part from Dyson that will have the same defect eventually. PLEASE MR show us exactly how u did it , so we can do the same. Please I beg u !

par

Adding capacitors does work!! Just added 2-47uF capacitors and issue is fixed. Thank you Panos

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Hi Peter, would you be able to educate us on how to add 2-47uF capacitors? Im not afraid to open it up, just need to know how to add and where to get the capacitors. I havent read anywhere how this is done. Id be ever so grateful to you.

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Hello guys, is there any image of capacitors? I have absolutely no idea what to disassemble to reach what I need. I found some discussions about faulty capacitors here and in Reddit but there are no pictures of faulty parts. When I know what to change or bypass, I can solder, but I'm not that advanced to found those faulty parts.

par

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If the three electrolytic capacitors on the other side of the circuit board are already too worn, the repair using ceramic capacitors will no longer work. In that case, the electrolytic capacitors would need to be replaced with new ones: 270-330µF, 35V, max. 10mm diameter, 12mm high, and minimum 105°C with low ESR.

Best regards, Mario

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Thanks Mario, I replaced the 3 x 270 capacitors with 3 new 330MF, 35 Volts, 10mm dia, 12mm hight and 125°C, Manufacturer Illinois part 337AVG035MGBJ bought from eBay. My Dyson V15 works fine now

par

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Same here. On my case, vacuum would run [normally] after trying these start-stop cycles many times (10+), getting the machine "hot" first. Problem started of light (1-2 stops, then normal) , then got worse (8-10 stops before it would run). Under warranty, got the motor body replaced and now the new motor (against the same battery) works fine.

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Hello, does 3x10uf mean 3 10uf 50v? Where exactly do you add it on the board?

par

@ahmet66662 I have provided some clarity below - although did not work for me due a different issue. Let me know if you need

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I've managed to fix my v15 detect too, thanks for sharing this @panoschristeas!

While I was trying to peel off the glue, I realized that using larger SMD capacitors (10uF 50V X7R SMD 1210 CL32B106KBJNNNE SAMSUNG) between the legs of the original ones might be less intrusive since you don't need to disconnect almost anything. You just need to unscrew the white cap and peel the glue around the legs of the old caps, then solder the SMD capacitors between them as shown in this photo (I realized that a few moments after disconnecting everything and peeling the glue).

Image

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Brilliant fix - I had complicated mine for no reason. Ended up buying the replacement part

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Hi Marek @c0nsi, thanks a lot for your detailed instructions! I followed your steps and my V15 started working on Eco and Medium but not on the Boost mode. Does your vacuum work on Boost after the fix?

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Yes it does, maybe ones that you have degraded even more, try using bigger capacitors

par

Good to hear that @c0nsi! Do you mean to use similar SMD capacitors in parallel but with greater capacitance, e.g. 20 uF or more? Or replace the original ones?

par

I tried to add 22 uF capacitors instead but it didn't work. So I replaced orginal capacitors with Panasonic 270uF 35V EEHAZT1V271B and it worked on boost as well. Then added the recommended 10 uF SMD ones in parallel for durability.

A few videos I found useful:

- Disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeS1R7Zk...

- Disassembly of Motor PCB: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbJPiBa6...

- Soldering tips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgDqgixK...

- Soldering basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jAw41LR...

- Desoldering to remove old capacitors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bG7yW9Fi...

- Reassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWgLBgmA...

I didn't cover PCB in transparent resin, let me know if you've used a specific one. I think it'll help protect the vacuum from overheating on boost.

par

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I think there is a need for a recall on this issue or an extended warranty

It is not logical that so menu units are defected with the same issue and about the same time

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Could the additions mentioned on the boards be the marked areas on the v10 model? Empty on the v12 card.

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So, yes, these are the extra pads! Two are on the flip side of the capacitors (as you show), the other is on the same side as them. If you look at the traces, they are definitely in parallel and close to the big 330μF caps.

Note that you don't need any big cap in parallel, rather a /fast/ one. That is, a 1-10μF ceramic will do a better job than a 22μF electrolytic. Reason is, you want to compensate for the inrush current to the coils, not the energy.

I didn't know about V10 (that it had the extra caps as you show), now that I see that board I could guess that the manufacturer had the capacitors, but removed them in V15.

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@panoschristeas do you have a picture of the fix for reference?

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Unfortunately, I haven't. As you see in the pictures by Joe, the whole thing was potted in protective coating, I spent some time removing enough of it to trace the electronic problem and then replaced it, but hadn't taken any pictures of the bare board. Now it's so difficult to take it apart again.

par

Thank you panos :) Did I understand your writing correctly? What is the 10μF voltage you specified? (16v-50v). I have a Dyson V12. It has a stalling problem. If we install 3 10μFs, will this solve the problem? Is this the same as what you wrote?

par

Did you change the capacitors (270uf 35v) or did you add a 10uf ceramic capacitor?

par

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hi panos. I found a photo online of a Dyson V15. Would installing a 10uf ceramic capacitor in the marked areas solve the problem? What solution is it talking about?

I apologize for my inadequate English translation.

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yes, you are right, these are the 3 positions where you can add capacitors.

I used 10μF because I had them available, it could be that even smaller ones do the job.

par

thank you panos. 10uf voltage (25-50)? Did doing this completely fix the problem?

hangi kılıf smd kullanılmalı 805?

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You need to replace those 3 capasutors, they have internal resistance of 1.3-1.9Om

The new one is something about 0.1-0.3Om

And then add smd capasutors in parallel to them

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In my case I juzt added a 470 uF 35 volt low esr cap across the battery in the handle itself and all is well. This I did to save me dismantling the cleaner body, a very easy fix, not professional at all but it works.

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@evimarn Could you post a picture of the fix? I'm not sure where to fit these caps in the way you describe, but it sounds like an easier / less intrusive fix as the others...

par

Only additional capasutors is not the valud solution.

Resistance of large capasutors will grow

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I have attempted the fix as suggested by @panoschristeas myself! Unfortunately I managed to &&^&@@ it up (probably from overheating the PCB). In any case, sharing my findings with you all:

  • The motor assembly main PCB is located within the main body housing under the LCD screen. For disassembly instructions See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeS1R7Zk...
  • The circuit carries three (3) capacitors of 270 microfarads each, so total capacitance of 810 microfarads. They are through hole capacitors (yes they look like SMDs), and seem to be rated at 31 volts. Not sure about the voltage as the markings are not familiar to me.
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  • I have tried to add 10 microfarad capacitors, but the space was not comfortable enough for me to work with (I am fairly unexperienced with soldering)
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so instead, I replaced just one of the capacitors with 330 microfarad capacitor resulting in total capacitance of 870 microfarads which is not too much more than what @panoschristeas added.

Image

For some reason, when I re-assembled everything back, nothing turned on. I am getting voltage in my capacitors, so it must be something else. Again not sure - I have now bought a replacement motor assembly.

Hope this helps someone and if you do get any questions or feedback let me know, i'll help as much as I can. Thanks

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It is necessary to add 3 capacitors without removing them. What does the board 3X10uf mean? (10 uf 16v-35v-50v ?) How to add to the board?

How to add a 10μF (3x10μF?) ceramic capacitor in parallel to a 270μF 35v capacitor?

10uF 25V 10% x7R 1206 SMD capacitor?

par

@ahmet66662 seeing Panos' reply above, I may have over done it unnecessarily. Adding the 3 10uf smd caps in parallel seems to be enough. Adding them in parallel - > extend the connectors side by side and that would be fine (I stand to be corrected).

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Hello,

I have the same problem with Dyson.

I have been trying to buy capasitors the same as oryginał. But there is problem to buy it in Poland.

Can anybody tell what will happen if i will use

330 microF 35v ?

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5 commentaires:

Using capacitors rated for higher voltage is ok, in principle.

However, on this application, what matters is the temperature rating and the quality of the capacitor: if your vacuum is not working because the previous capacitors have lost 10% of their nominal capacity [*], then you don't want the next caps. to degrade in the same way.

[*] actually, it's the ESR that may matter more than the capacity..

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@tombik38871 did you manage to fix it yourself? I'm also located in Poland and trying to do it myself, but I'm a total novice to the subject.

par

Hi, @paulina83105 , @tombik38871

did you succeed? what was your result?

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@matKBC i actually didn't. Also, i'm user of v12 if this matters. I've managed to change those capacitors with some help (i was also adviced on which to buy) and when i assembled the motor back it didn't start at all. 😅 So i made it worse. 😬 I guess current is not present on the motherboard, but as i mentioned I have literally zero experience, yet i decided to give it a shot. I'm not done with it yet, i'll try to confirm with someone smarter than me if i killed it completely. 🤡

par

@paulina83105 Hi, if you're still trying to fix your v12, I can help. I'm from Gdynia. I recently fixed v15. You can contact me at volturia.pl

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I am trying to find the value of the small cap that is highlihted in green. any assistace plase. Thank you

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That’s a frustrating issue you’re facing with the Dyson V15 Detect stopping after a few seconds with no error lights. One common cause is restricted airflow—if filters or hose passages are blocked, the vacuum’s protection system may shut it off to avoid damage. According to user reports, another deeper issue can be aging or weakened capacitors in the motor assembly, visagesculpture.com causing the system to mistakenly detect a fault and cut power.

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I have the same problem. The question is, if the treatment fails, how much does this chip cost?

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Hi,

So I have the same problem, added 3 ceramic caps (50v 4.7uF) but it didn't worked.
I also tried to disconnect the screen (I've read somwere it fixed the issue).

I'll buy the replacement from Dyson.
Thank you for your help

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Hi all,
The type of these 3 electrolytic capacitors are not common radial aluminium electrolytic ones but aluminium polymer electrolytic with much lower ESR.
Commonly found at Mouser/Farnell/Digikey ...
The exact replacement might be hard to find but 270uf/35Vdc are useable (according to spec sheet) these are slightly larger 10x9.5 (dxl mm) instead of 8x9.

Beware not to heat them too long while soldering.

Thanks to Kaspars for starting this thread.

Grtz

Serge

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Excellent page thanks. I have a V11 to repair with this pulsating issue. I have bought a large batch of failed motors for a little money. PM me (if this page allows it) and I can let you have one for little money – or some more if you want it recapped first. Most are V11 motors but some are other models that I can’t immediately identify. E.g. they have extra connectors that the V11 does not have.

On the V11 motors I got half have varnish style conformal coating and half have silicone. Looks from what seems like date codes that the later ones used silicone. Any other differences people are aware of?

I am advised that the best silicone to use for recoating these is 705 RTV silicone from China. Is runnier than normal silicone. Can’t find any in UK but can get big tubes of much more expensive versions here. Not done the repair yet as waiting for the silicone to arrive.

par

Easiest source of the caps for me is RS, as avoids the £30 minimum order charge of many of the other suppliers, if you collect for their store. Got some Panasonic 330u 35V ones of identical size to the originals. Also got some 10u ceramic caps to solder between the leads as some here seem to advise that that helps. It should cut down on some the very peaky spikes that may degrade the electrolytic. Don't understand why some are talking about using less capacitance on the ceramics.

What is the IC marked U12 that is not coated? Looks like an optical sensor. Is it detecting dust particles and if so what does it do with the info as my screen does not seem to display a dust count.

For removing the motor and caps I recommend ChipQuik solder or other very low melting point solder. Running some of this over the terminals dilutes the high meting point normal solder and so enables removal at lower and less damaging temperatures.

par

Adding the 10u ceramics does reduce the ripple by 66% but introduces some ringing. That seems a pretty radical change which surprises me. Hope its not going to upset the normal operation of the machine.

It's 1.5 Vpp on all speeds without the ceramics with a 350Mhz scope. Seems quite a high value for new caps. Did not measure it on the old caps.

My old caps measured 270u on a Peak meter so no less than the rated value. The new caps were 10 or 20% higher than their nominal. I don’t have a way to measure their ESR.

par

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