Introduction
The LCD in the Apple Thunderbolt Display is the very first part that will have to be taken out no matter what piece inside this device has to be replaced. Because of this, it is essential to know how to carefully remove the LCD from the device. Something that should be noted is that even after screws are removed, don't hastily try pulling the LCD out of its casing because it is still connected to the power and logic board of the display! Once the new screen is in place, make sure that everything is connected like the original LCD was and your device should be as good as new!
Outils
Pièces
Aucune pièce spécifiée.
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Lay down the display with screen side up.
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Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.
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The glass screen to connected to the rest of the display by small magnets. Lift slowly and the screen will come right off.
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Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.
The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.
Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.
You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).
A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around
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Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards.
Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.
Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.
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For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar.
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Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle.
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Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.
What is this connector for?
I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).
I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?
Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable
As other’s have said, this cable is super delicate.
When you replace it, make sure that the small metal handle it firmly reattached to the other side of the port. I thought I’d got it right first time, but had no video signal (thunderbolt detected display, and power was fed to the Macbook Pro).
I had to reinsert this one again, and one in, firmly press the connector home, then latch the handle over the other side. I also gave it a test pull to ensure it was secure. Then all was well!
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
19 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.
10 commentaires
Love your site! Proved very helpful on multiple occasions and your products are fantastic!
Forgive my ignorance...
Is it possible to (1) Are any of the components of Thunderbolt Display upgrade-able? .... (2) There appears to be plenty of real-estate, can a Thunderbolt Display be turned into mac and/or pc? ... (3) Any way to upgrade to USB 3.0/3.1?...
I like tinkering with electronics and don't mind the complexities or if necessary getting parts, just wondering if any of these are possible and if so, can you give a clue as to where I can find more info... Thank You.
Would like to see a continuation of what it takes to replace the Thunderbolt cable that is attached to the back of the display
Does the LCD from an iMac 2009 27” fit into the Thunderbolt Display and make it work?
Actually it’s the same Display but the connectors are different, therefore it’s not that easy.
The Apple Studio Display 27 LCD panel has 2 main flaws that occasionally need fixing The first issue is the LCD panel and backlight are not vacuum sealed, micro dust particles gather between the 3 backlight transparent sheets, then when the air temperature changes is cause the dust to accumulated creating what looks like a water mark/streak. This may not be noticeable too most but if your using it for colour correction this is a major issue. Secondly the connections for powering the LEDS backlight at the bottom corners have a less than satisfactory solder connection causing flickering and turning off, sometimes only on one side, which can be fixed by just running solder along the 90 degree connection.
Fixing one of the two issues requires you to disassemble the panel, not for the faint hearted or not technically skilled.
It is hard to disassemble but impossible to reassemble, must have been assembled by a robot, the plastic frame and get it to click back in place, first time I attempted this i crushed the very thin LED panel.
The half-arse solution to reassembly is to modify the plastic clip as long as you return the silver curved reflector on the plastic frame so that the backlight works at the same brightness.
Tutoriel parfait mais où trouver une dalle LCD de remplacement pour thunderbolt apple 27”
Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.
Josh Miller - Réponse
You can also use a single handle, double cup floor lifting suction cup. Just place it in the centre of the screen near the camera and lift slowly.
Steve A - Réponse