Introduction
Est-ce que votre trackpad Force Touch nécessite un peu plus de force qu'auparavant ? Le Taptic Engine réagit-il ? Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le trackpad de votre MacBook Pro 13" début 2015.
Cette procédure consiste à utiliser un dissolvant pour adhésif afin de retirer la batterie. Ne réutilisez pas la batterie après l'avoir retirée, car cela pourrait être dangereux. Remplacez-la par une batterie neuve.
Le dissolvant pour adhésif iFixit est hautement inflammable. Effectuez cette procédure dans un endroit bien ventilé. Ne fumez pas et ne travaillez pas à proximité d'une flamme.
Pour minimiser les risques de dommages, allumez votre MacBook et laissez la batterie se décharger complètement avant de commencer. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut créer un incendie dangereux et incontrôlable en cas de perforation accidentelle. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez des précautions supplémentaires.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
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Deux vis Pentalobe P5 de 2,3 mm
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Huit vis Pentalobe P5 de 3,0 mm
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Glissez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
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Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers, soulevez et retirez le boîtier inférieur.
To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily
If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!
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I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.
If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.
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A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.
I have done tons of these battery replacements.
You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.
Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…
Dear Sir,
as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.
I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …
I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint
After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?
Is replacing the battery necessary?
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?
Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.
When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.
+1
I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!
Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!
The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.
You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.
After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.
Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?
Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.
surf -
Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?
The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long
You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.Hi All ,
I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .
Thanks
The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.
If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector
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If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-
@sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...
UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!
jiclark -
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Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère.
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Retirez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S.
On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!
Same for me. T6 screws, with a slighly narrow band (no central connector).
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites sortir le connecteur de la carte E/S tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17
This was a great tip - I just moved the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them, which made things easy to deal with. Thank you.
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If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.
I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.
the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.
I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely
This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.
Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.
(Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)
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Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas au cours des étapes suivantes.
If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.
Thank you - this tip saved me a lot of time and hassle.
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Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue de la spatule sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.
I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!
If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.
On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards
Once disconnected, you will see that the speaker socket pins are horizontal. You might think the connector needs to slide into the pins, but it does not. The connecter is reattached by pressing straight down. After the connector is in place, use the flat end of the spudger to make sure the connector is fully seated.
This should NOT be done. Shame on iFixit! Its easy to rip the socket off the board if the connector holding too tight. I had to resolder the socket onto the traces of the board.
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Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit pour la dégager du boîtier supérieur.
I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.
Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!
See this video - https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o
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Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :
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Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm
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Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm
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Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm
Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.
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Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.
When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.
I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!
Hi everyone.
I have a problem with the right speaker of my macbook pro early 2015.
The sound has a strange vibration and it is impossible to hear the audio properly except with headphones.
I disassembled the macbook and extracted the speakers to check their condition but they are both perfect.
I wanted to ask all of you who have replaced speakers what condition you found them in.
Could the vibration be due to the deformation of the case due to the swelling of the battery? Is there another way to tell if the speaker actually needs to be replaced?
Thank you all.
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Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) sous la nappe du haut-parleur gauche au niveau du connecteur et débranchez la nappe de sa prise sur la carte mère.
Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).
Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.
slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB
I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.
I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.
When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?
Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…
Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.
Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.
That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).
For a battery repair with the heat method, as indicated in other comments on prior steps, you may skip this step, just unscrew the speaker and put it away when working on the battery. For this specific left speaker - on the right during the repair - you need to be careful with the protruding bit from the frame when moving the cable. Just guide the cable above or below as needed during the repair, to prevent to damage the cable with this protruding part.
Speakers aren't working now... perhaps because I connected and disconnected then while the battery was still on. Even headphones don't work... Hmm...
Its absolutely true, this is not neccessary. It works greate without removing the speakers
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Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur :
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Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm
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Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm
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Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm
Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.
Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?
Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.
My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?
Hi,
If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?
Where can I replace these screws?
One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw
Did you ever find the replacement screws? If so, where…I need them also!
Once again.
NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED
Muchas gracias amigo, cambié las bocinas sin problema. :)
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Soulevez le coin du haut-parleur gauche. Faites-le glisser pour le dégager de la batterie et le faire sortir du boîtier.
If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?
after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….
Why does this step exist?
Unneeded…
Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).
For a battery repair with the heat method, I needed to remove the speakers, but not the connectors, just unscrew the speaker and put them away when working on the battery
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites sortir le connecteur du pavé tactile tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it
If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.
If you also remove the other end of the mouse cable, remember to lower the lever when you reinsert it.
It is important to be really GENTLE with the trackpad cable.
It is sometimes glued on very strong, and it is easy to damage it internally with no visible outer damage. In my case, I damaged just one line, and at first I didn't realize it.
My TRACKPAD was working fine, but the Force Touch haptic Feedback wasn't working. I tried everything else, but eventually I replaced this ribbon cable with a cheap used one and that fixed it immediately.
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Soulevez la nappe du pavé tactile et décollez-le de la bande adhésive la fixant sur la batterie.
What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.
I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!
If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.
For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:
If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.
Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue du connecteur ZIF.
Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.
I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal
This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.
Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.
All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.
I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?
CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.
If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.
This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!
One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.
The “flip up” tab was hard to see for me but once my 7yo confirmed it was up, I slowly moved the cable into the slot using my fingers (to avoid bending/breaking anything, thanks to comments I read), staying perpendicular. Once it was clearly in, I confirmed it was fully seated with a toothpick (a gentle tool for delicate parts). If worried, take zoomed in pictures straight from above, that way you will know what it should look like when reassembling.
After completing this repair and breaking the zif socket while trying to make sure this cable was re-attached properly. I believe the battery replacement can be done without doing this step. I would just carefully bend the cable out of the way when it came time to prying the portion of the battery out that sits below this cable.
I'm taking my Macbook into Apple to see if they'll replace the touchpad and cable now since I don't feel like messing with this anymore. My screwup may just push me into buying a new M2 Macbook Air... I'm thinking subconsciously my brain tricked me into sabotaging this repair attempt so that I'd just get a new computer, lol.
Same experience as many. I didn't read the comments or the instructions well enough here and forgot to flip up the ZIF connector. Ended up just pulling the ribbon cable out which must have damaged it. After the battery replacement when I reassemble and turned my computer back on, the trackpad and keyboard were unresponsive. I bought a replacement (used) trackpad cable from iFixit, it came a few days later, I popped it in (the correct way!) and my keyboard and trackpad were back to working. So, don't forget the ZIF connector tab!!!!
READ THE COMMENTS ON THIS ONE.
Broke the ZIF connector :-(
Should've seen this step properly and read the comments. I was on the right path but somehow thought needed to plug. out the casing of ZIF connector too and maybe just ripped out the cable wrongly. My bad and now will see what the Mac does without the ZIF connector flipper... or may just buy the new trackpad.Zip connector flip broke - now I only have a connection in rare occasions. Has anyone an easy hack like gluing the thing in place ore something 🥲?
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Faites glisser la nappe du tactile tout droit hors de sa prise ZIF sur la carte de contrôle du pavé tactile.
With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...
See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.
Just to be sure...
I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.
This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?
This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.
Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.
The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.
If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.
I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?
Thank you
I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.
Ghassen -
Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!
Removing this cable took a lot more effort than I thought it should. I removed it horizontally away from the front of the laptop. I was certain to pop up the plastic retaining clip to remove, then push it down to reinstall. For whatever reason I feel like I’m not getting the cable back in all the way. After reassembly my touchpad and keyboard do not work. I’m wondering if I damaged the cable or the small board with the zif socket…
Same. Any idea how to resolve it? Any progress on your part?
Same for me. Trackpad is not working anymore. What a pity…
I had to replace the cable after my keyboard and trackpad would not work after replacing the battery, lucky they are available from iFixit
So during re-assembly, my cable is not going in all the way. I think is causing the haptic feedback on the trackpad to stop working. Does anyone have any solution to this?
Success. I bought a replacement ribbon cable and followed ifixit instructions. The ribbon cable is too long as is stated. I worried that bending the cable would crimp it, causing the same malfunction as the original. What to do? I did bend it a little but the cable still had a bow in it. I decided to place a piece of plastic (guessing about 5 mm thick) under the cable which held the cable nicely to the right length, without crimping. Then taped to the battery. The computer back panel then screwed on with no issue and did not have a bulge such as to cause the computer to rock and layed flat on the bumper feet. The computer worked perfectly. Thank you “ifixit”
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Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 3,7 mm fixant la carte de la batterie au boîtier supérieur.
Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?
Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.
when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.
FYI this was a T4 on my system
When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold
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Pour protéger votre écran, placez une feuille de papier aluminium entre l'écran et le clavier et laissez-la pendant la réparation.
I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).
This should have been Step 1.
I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.
I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.
I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .
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Sinon, si vous suivez la méthode chaude avec iOpener, ignorez les trois étapes suivantes.
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Protégez vos yeux pendant que vous manipulez le dissolvant. (Une paire de lunettes de protection est incluse dans votre kit.)
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Des gants de protection sont également inclus dans le kit. Si vous craignez de vous irriter la peau, enfilez-les.
I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.
I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.
FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves
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Retirez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre flacon de dissolvant.
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Utilisez des ciseaux pour couper la pointe scellée de l'applicateur.
just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.
New kits come with different bottle than picutred. all clear with clear notch to cut on tip.
The kit that I got had a clear bottle with a black top - the cover just unscrews, and the tip underneath already has a hole in it.
The bottle you have to cut spills easily. Used the card to apply. Still a bit messy.
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Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon uniforme sous le bord de la cellule de batterie la plus à droite.
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Attendez 2 à 3 minutes que le dissolvant liquide pénètre sous la cellule, puis passez à l'étape suivante.
I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.
Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)
Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.
I had the same experience as Marc. My battery was also so swollen that I only needed to carefully pry underneath with a spudger from the side away from the trackpad to get it loose. I had several plastic cards on hand that I used “just in case” there was a problem.
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Recouvrez la moitié des cellules de batterie de droite avec l'iOpener chaud.
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Au bout d'une minute, refaites chauffer l'iOpener et déposez-le sur l'autre moitié des cellules de batterie de droite.
I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).
DO NOT OVERHEAT the iOpener. Note that the replacement instructions here seem to imply just reheat and repeat every ~2 minutes. The iOpener packaging ALSO asserts just heat for 30 and go, every time. HOWEVER, on the BACK of the iOpener (never pictured), it explicitly says 30 seconds, then another 30 if and only if necessary and if the iOpener isn't hot to the touch, and then NO FURTHER warming for 10 mins. I'm guessing this is where a lot of the "2 hour" quote comes from, if you're expected to let the iOpener cool for 10 minutes for each of the 6 cells. That said, once I had mine going for 30 + 30 + (didn't read the fine print) 20 + 15, it was plenty hot to do the remainder of the cells in one go.
I also used a hairdryer and when the battery was just below too hot to touch, I was able to pull the battery off without using tools. I started from the outside and moved towards the middle. I just pointed the hairdryer under the ouyside edge of each battery and waited until it got hot to the touch.
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Insérez une carte en plastique entre la cellule de batterie la plus à droite et le boîtier supérieur et coupez l'adhésif entre les deux.
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Si vous suivez la méthode de l'iOpener chaud et que la batterie résiste beaucoup, arrêtez et refaites chauffer avec l'iOpener la zone sur laquelle vous travaillez.
I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.
Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.
With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.
I did not have a iFixIt kit (they were sold out). I used a hot/cold therapy pack instead of an iOpener, but found I didn’t need it. What worked really well for me was to gently work an old credit card in underneath, then slide a long wedge-shaped spudger between the credit card and battery cell and pry gently up. Not to much to avoid bending the cell, but working back and forth between wedging up with the spudger and shifting the credit card further in worked really well.
when using the iOpener, note that a full 60+ seconds of heating (divided over multiple 30 or less second nukes) will get it hot enough to melt the provided cards themselves if left in direct contact. Account for this in where you leave your cards between cells.
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Répétez la procédure pour décoller la cellule adjacente :
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Appliquez une petite quantité de dissolvant liquide sous la cellule de la batterie et attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse.
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Ou bien refaites chauffer la zone avec votre iOpener, si nécessaire.
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Insérez une carte en plastique d'environ 2,5 cm entre la cellule de batterie et le boîtier supérieur, et faites lentement levier pour les décoller de l'adhésif.
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Répétez la procédure ci-dessus pour décoller les deux cellules de gauche du boîtier supérieur.
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N'oubliez pas d'appliquer une petite quantité de dissolvant sur chaque élément de la batterie, puis attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse.
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Utilisez une deuxième carte en plastique pour séparer les deux cellules de gauche et le boîtier supérieur.
The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).
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Insérez la carte en plastique entre la deuxième batterie de gauche et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif qui les colle en semble, et faites levier pour retirer la cellule du boîtier.
Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).
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Laissez la deuxième carte dans le coin entre les deux cellules de gauche.
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Si vous utilisez un iOpener, refaites-le chauffer et posez-le sur les cellules du milieu de la batterie.
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Comme avant, laissez l'iOpener agir dans chaque position pendant une minute environ et refaites-le chauffer entre, pour que chaque moitié des cellules de batterie du milieu soit chauffée.
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Pour les étapes suivante, servez-vous d'une troisième carte ou de la carte utilisée à droite. L'adhésif du coin droit devrait être suffisamment sec/refroidi pour que les cellules puissent être soulevées facilement en cas de besoin.
I grabbed a roll of scotch tape for these steps; once a cell was separated and cool, I could shimmy a good long strip of tape, sticky-side up, under the cell to cover as much of the old adhesive as I could feel and better prevent readhesion.
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Si vous utilisez le dissolvant liquide, appliquez quelques gouttes supplémentaires sous chacune des deux dernières cellules centrales.
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Attendez 2 à 3 minutes que le dissolvant pénètre avant de continuer.
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Repliez délicatement les deux cellules de droite et insérez une carte en plastique sous la cellule au milieu à droite.
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Insérez-y environ la moitié de la carte en plastique pour faire céder l'adhésif collant la cellule au boîtier.
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Laissez la carte en plastique pour empêcher l'adhésif de recoller.
I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.
Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:
Changement du pavé tactile (trackpad) du MacBook Pro 13" Retina début 2015
To prevent re-adhering, I placed a bit of Scotch tape over the original adhesive locations.
You can see it in the photos, but they don't call it out: while the side cells are in their own smooth wells, the center cells are on a raised section to accommodate the trackpad. If you shimmy your cards in and they absolutely hard-stop, be aware you probably need to get the outer cells free enough to lift so your card can clear the bezel.
I used one of my wife's icing spatula's (this one Small Spreader - Shop), and it worked really well on the middle 2 cells since it is long and slightly sharp and thin and pretty sturdy. I just took my time not to damage the cells and I was very happy with the results. Although, my wife was not happy that I made her spatula dirty and fully of adhesive but I just used a little IPA to remove the residue :).
Je n'avais pas le kit iFixit, ni de hot pack. J'ai utilisé de l'alcool dénaturé à 96°. Avec patience, délicatesse et une palette de plastique de 5cm de large, j'y suis arrivée plus facilement que je le pensais.
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Retournez à la cellule au milieu à droite et faites pivoter la carte en plastique qui s'y trouve, afin de retirer complètement la batterie du boîtier supérieur.
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Si ce n'est pas le cas, il faut refaire chauffer l'iOpener, le poser sur les zones collées et continuer à faire céder l'adhésif avec les cartes en plastique.
I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.
I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..
This was a great tip - it helped get the liquid on the difficult middle cells without flooding the screen. I also used floss to cut through the center adhesive strips.
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Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.
While you have the battery off, consider removing the T3 screws that hold the metal plate over the trackpad. That makes it much easier (and less dangerous for the trackpad) to clean the adhesive off. And while you have that off, consider removing the twelve T5 screws holding in the trackpad and cleaning it up a bit around the edges, and the edges of the case. Because that’s a slot, stuff gets in there. I was surprised how dirty mine was. Trackpad instructions here: Changement du pavé tactile (trackpad) du MacBook Pro 13" Retina début 2015
At the last step reassembly there was a 1-2 mm gap between the cover and the body. Upon inspection I found that one of the new battery’s plastic bar had to be gently nudged under the aluminum « post ». At the ends of the plastic U shape, look for tiny flat protrusions, right next to the rubber bumpers, those should go under a recess near the screw posts (one can be seen on the left of the thumb on the image above).
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Retirez la batterie.
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Avec un peu de chance, vous arriverez à enlever toutes les bandes d'adhésif avec vos doigts.
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Sinon, imprégnez-les d'un peu de dissolvant, attendez 2 à 3 minutes et raclez-les à l'aide d'un outil d'ouverture en plastique ou un des autres outils de votre kit. Il s'agit d'un travail un peu pénible qui nécessite de la patience.
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Épongez tous les résidus de dissolvant et laissez votre MacBook Pro sécher à l'air pendant quelques minutes.
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Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.
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Si vous remarquez quelque chose d'inhabituel ou des problèmes après avoir installé votre nouvelle batterie, réinitialisez le contrôleur de gestion du système (SMC) de votre Mac.
Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.
I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.
good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.
Faslane -
Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?
Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.
Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.
yon2maru -
Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?
There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.
yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.
Faslane -
My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.
my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?
thanks
Bob
I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.
My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.
My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.
Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?
It doesn't reset the ago, no.
Faslane -
my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?
thanks
Bob
I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.
jklarr -
Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!
I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.
Tips for alignment:
1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.
2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.
3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.
4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.
I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.
This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery
I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.
In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.
In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.
Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!
Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !
I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!
I can’t say for sure it’s absolutely necessary, but I’m looking inside one right now and, from a practical standpoint, the speakers would make it extremely difficult to work around. It would be much harder to get the glue dissolver under the ends of the battery and to pry underneath them to lift them. Removing the speakers is rather simple, so just do it.
Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?
Thanks!
Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?
To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.
I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.
I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.
Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?
Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).
Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.
Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.
Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.
Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.
MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)
Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.
I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.
Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?
I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?
In the few battery replacements I’ve done, in addition to making sure the battery connector is aligned properly the single screw needs to be aligned to start with. I’ve found that the rubber feet tend to be too high (the 2 in the middle of the computer). I believe it’s more the long tail on the underside of the rubber foot that prevents the bottom case from seating properly. As well the plastic around the other 2 feet (near the front of the computer) need to be flexed somewhat to help with bottom case alignment and seating…
I skipped the steps using the liquid glue solver, and therefore also left out the removal of additional parts, so made it quite “simple” at the end. I was going through steps 1-7, 17&18, 21, and then from 26 onwards to the end. For 26, I used the sun to heat up the old batteries, after it it was quite easy to remove them with a creditcard. Thanks for all the details!
Hat 3 Tage funktioniert 🙄 Nun Startet er nicht mehr
habe gemäß der Anleitung den Akku gewechselt, hat alles super easy geklappt.
Werkzeug und Akku bei ifixit bestellt.
Das MacBook hat danach 3 Tage funktioniert, hat geladen, entladen alles Prima.
Dann lief er bis der Akku Leer war und seit dem startet das Gerät nicht mehr.
Auch ein SMC oder NVRAM Reset helfen nicht.
Das Ladesymbol am Ladekabel leuchtet, aber auch nach einer Nacht immernoch nicht grün.
Wenn ich die besagten Tastenkombinationen drücke, ist beim SMC Reset zu erkennen das die Ladeleuchte danach für ca. 2 Sekunden grün wird.
Hat jemand eine Idee ?
I used alcohol prep pad with 70% alcohol to remove old battery adhesive from the laptop.
If you need to transfer the rubber spacers to the plastic frame of the new battery (because you got a cheap one that didn't come with any), take note that they come in 2 slightly different heights.
The shorter ones go towards the front edge, the higher ones to the center of the MacBook.
You can remove them by pushing them through from the bottom of the old frame with your screwdriver. Getting them into the new battery frame requires some fiddling. Try to push them in from the top while trying to get the wide part through the hole with a toothpick.
Just replaced the battery on my wife's early 2015 13" MacBook Pro that I handed down to her when I bought my M1 MacBook Pro from my doctoral program. I did my entire master's program with the 2015 and it has been a beast. She working on her master's with the machine now and the only thing that has slowed it down has been the battery. I'm grateful that iFixit offers these kits and guides. I was able to replace the battery in no time at all so the 2015 will keep on trucking!
Neither my trackpad, screen or keyboard work after this . I followed all the instructions carefully. My laptop is completely ruined, I would avoid this product at all costs !!!!
Just completed the change of battery on MBPro13 early 2015. Got the kit which was a god send, made everything much more straightforward. Took my time and no problems at all apart from shuffling of speakers and battery. Not sure why I waited over a year to do this! Bloated battery and keyboard solved! Started up great and now calibrating. Thanks!
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Retirez les dix vis T3 de 2,8 mm fixant la plaque de protection du pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.
These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.
You’re right Dustin. fyi grainger has a fine t3 screwdriver for$7
The screws in these two steps have thread locker on them. Blue (removable) Loctite, I believe. You’ll hear a “snap” when you first turn them and that’s the Loctite breaking; following that they’re just like normal screws. You might consider putting a little bit of Blue Loctite on them before putting them back in. Be careful not to put too much though: don’t drip it onto the screw; instead, just squeeze the Loctite tube gently until a drop is sitting on the edge of the tube, then touch the tip of the screw to the drop and let capillary action suck a tiny bit of Loctite into the threads.
Oddly, there were only 8 of these 10 T3 screws in my laptop…
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Retirez les douze vis T5 de 2,4 mm fixant le pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.
To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.
I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.
To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.
I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?
Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?
I’m facing the same problem
I’m confused don’t know what to do now. Screws are hard and won’t turn. Please help!
For anyone else that runs into this problem, you can check out our guide to removing stripped screws for some more options.
I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?
Thank you Adam!
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Soulevez et retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier.
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Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté pour obtenir de l'aide pour le dépannage.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté pour obtenir de l'aide pour le dépannage.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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31 commentaires
Is there a way to get a calibration software somehow ? Is Apple offering paid calibration service and what is the cost?
I just followed this repair guide. NO calibration whatsoever needed. It worked like a charm (like new) once I assembled everything back together.
No software needed
If you do this yourself, Apple will not touch your laptop with a 10-foot pole, you will have voided any existing warranty. They would require you to purchase a new trackpad from them and they will install/calibrate it themselves
I don’t think they sell the control board separate from the trackpad panel - comes soldered together
“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. “ Ah, yes, because now that the adhesive on the battery has been removed it should apparently still work! What a dumb reassembly instruction. You don’t sell the adhesive strips on their own either.
This is a valid point, sir. I recently had to replace the battery and in going through that process realized once the battery was finally freed from the bondage of adhesive that was remarkably overboard for securing a battery in a laptop, there it was… access to the trackpad. All that was stopping me were those 10, I repeat 10! Torx! Screws! that were yet a different size than the majorrity of the torx screws securing other components. I never did venture further as I was ready to be finished, the task at hand had proved to be arduous enough. It does give one a good perspective however this mother &&^&@* is NOT an easy to repair laptop. While the potential exists for many of the components to be replaced, it certainly isn’t a cake walk.
eeM Gee -
Worked like a charm! In my case I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.
My wifes MAC was already out of warranty, and the official authorized service in Slovakia asked 480 € for replacement of the whole trackpad, battery, keyboard and topcase. So I bought the flex from eBay, replaced it myself and fixed it for just 15 €. Really really HUGE THANKS for this repair guide
I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.
Thx for this comment! Laptop fully functional again.
Symptoms I noticed:
- first my touchpad didn’t work during login (1 or 2 times), but did after logging in (keyboard still worked)
- later my touchpad and keyboard didn’t work (“no keyboard connected“ warning), even after logging in with usb keyboard
I just finished! It had a million screws! Ok, so first of all there is NO adjustment needed for the haptic feedback. Works perfect. This is for the LATE 2015 13.3” MacBook Pro retina. I did not use the microwave heat thing nor did I use the adhesive remover liquid. I used a two inch paint spatula and slid it under the battery one at a time extremely slow and carefully lifted each battery from the edge and let the adhesive slowly separate as I i pried it up. The batteries did not tear but the adhesive was not reusable. I used double sided tape when I put them back in. Be prepared and make sure you have all three screw drivers before you begin. One last thing, I had to go back to the store three times because I kept ruining the screw driver heads. These screws are so tiny and in there really good in some places. The screws won’t strip but the screw driver sure will. Push down hard and don’t tighten to hard!
I had to only do apart of this tutorial, which was to replace the trackpad cable, because my keyboard and mouse stopped working the other night. Very simple and this was very helpful. Like many others have found that most replacement cables are a little longer than the originals but I just gently bent the cable along with the contours of the plastic and other pieces that it sat on top of.
Followed the tutorial, worked perfectly. However, now my keyboard stopped working (the trackpad is ok now). Any ideas where I may have gone wrong?
How are we supposed to glue the battery back together? Should we heat it up to activate the adhesive strip, I tried it and it worked only weakly….
Should we use super glue?
As a general rule, you shouldn’t re-use the battery once it has been removed—you want to replace it with a new one. The battery isn’t designed to be removed and can easily get damaged in the process. Reinstalling it afterward puts your MacBook at risk and may be a fire hazard. Remove the battery, remove the old adhesive as instructed, and replace it with a new one. The replacement battery should have new adhesive pre-installed, so there’s no need for any super glue. Good luck!
Does the trackpad replacement requires that the battery also should be replaced? I have a crackling sound under the trackpad. Genius mentioned that the circuitry attached to the trackpad is making sound because of the spill. I would like to know if i should by battery and the trackpad and replace both or just trackpad with all the tools.
Thank you
Are there other tutorials for replacing the force touch trackpad for this model?
The one here is a bit different to the one I have, though both are for the same force touch model macbook pro.
For example;
T5 screws in my trackpad cover plate are different from T3 screws for the cover plate in the above guide.
Here is the replacement part I bought.
Thanks,
Hello all, this is the first time I’m typing anything beyond the basic tests after replacing my trackpad cable. It wouldn’t have seemed obvious to me, but after going to the Apple store to investigate my ‘keyboard not working’ issues, they reported that I might, first, try replacing the trackpad cable. For $80 U.S. they’d order and install the cable for me, <fingers crossed>. I Decided I’d rather do that myself. I ordered the part from fixit for $10 plus $5 shipping (and some stickers too) and put my two specialty screwdrivers, spudger and finesse top the test. Other than skipping from Step 3 to 17, my keyboard worked right after I powered back up. Super happy with fixit. Thanks for making this site, thanks Andrew for making this page, thanks everyone else for commenting. Can we make sure there’s a way to let people who are trying to resolve the KEYBOARD NOT WORKING issue might actually be a try-replacing-the-trackpad-cable SOLUTION?
thanks again, Brandt
I would start off replacing the cable then you’ll likely need a new touchpad if that fails to fix things.
Dan -
Hi, my trackpad isn’t vibrating, do i need to replace only the cable or replace the trackpad with new one?
You need a new touchpad unit
Dan -
Do i need to buy a new battery for this repair?
It would make sense! Your current battery likely needs replacing soon anyways. It depends how difficult it was to take out and if it’s damaged in the process (which you often do).
Dan -
Empecé a seguir este tutorial porque tanto el trackpad como el teclado dejaron de funcionar. Lo seguí paso a paso hasta el punto de quitar las baterías. Al no tener a mano esa herramienta, decidí esperar a que me llegase para continuar.
Antes de cerrarlo, limpié toda la placa y los conectores con una brocha y Alcohol isopropílico. Cuando acabé lo volví a conectar todo y lo cerré de nuevo. Al encender el portátil para ver si todo esta bien, me di cuenta de que tanto el teclado como el Trackpad funcionaban perfectamente. SOLO NECESITABAN UNA BUENA LIMPIEZA.
Gracias por la guía de desmontaje.
I just did this today, my liquid damaged laptop is now working perfectly! I was a bit intimidated by the battery replacement but it really wasn’t so bad. I used 99% alcohol and an old credit card and with a bit of cautious perseverance it all came up. The hardest part was replacing the trackpad cable, it’s too long and has to be bent to fit into the case, I was scared to pinch it into a proper “fold”. My case is a tiny bit poofed out now and I can’t get the remaining 2 screws in. Not sure whether to try again with it or just leave it now. In any case I’m happy that the keyboard and trackpad is functional again!
Can I purchase the trackpad cable by itself?
If you find it, why not?
thanks for the great guide. I was trying to decide between just buying a top case on ebay that had the trackpad still mounted, or following this guide. but as I wanted to put in a new battery also this worked out perfectly….
FIXED my issue with the keyboard and trackpad not working. Started with the computer shutting down and not being responsive for a day. Then it turned into a couple of days in between uses. Both the keyboard and the trackpad were completely unresponsive EXCEPT for the power key. I tried resetting the SMC and PRAM which did nothing. Followed these steps after purchasing the full kit from iFixIt and BOOM!!! All systems go!!! Plus, now my battery is fresh! These instructions were great - made the process very manageable for someone with a very limited tech knowledgeable. The side-by-side pictures were a huge help - you NEVER see that kind of detail and clarity from pictures in instructions. THANK YOU for this!!!
My taptic engine is not working. Should I replace the touchpad or the cable?
No, review Steps 26 & 27 for the trackpad and Step 33 for the keyboard in this guide Remplacement de la carte mère du MacBook Pro 15" Retina mi-2015.
How about posing your Q’s in the Answers forum
Dan -
For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?
Carlos - Réponse
Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.
Fredrik -
I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!
marketing - Réponse
I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!
On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.
Dustin Steward - Réponse
Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.
All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.
All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.
When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.
doubleclutch - Réponse
This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.
Evan Shulman -
A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.
Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.
doubleclutch - Réponse
Hi peeps,
I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.
However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.
Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.
dom
colonel mustard - Réponse
Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws
1. Pack of post it notes
2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note
3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is
ibash - Réponse
Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:
yes > /dev/null
in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.
I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.
And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)
You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.
Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.
Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?
Andre van der Ham - Réponse
Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol
Chat Dawgie - Réponse
Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!
N DesRochers - Réponse
Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.
chaslaw - Réponse
I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop
Pete James - Réponse
It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.
Marv Ruona - Réponse
when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.
Jason Wade - Réponse
Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!
John Foreman - Réponse
I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.
Richard KeslerWest - Réponse
I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?
Honeybee94 - Réponse
DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.
Paul Lebow - Réponse