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Introduction

Est-ce que votre trackpad Force Touch nécessite un peu plus de force qu'auparavant ? Le Taptic Engine réagit-il  ? Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le trackpad de votre MacBook Pro 13" début 2015.

Cette procédure consiste à utiliser un dissolvant pour adhésif afin de retirer la batterie. Ne réutilisez pas la batterie après l'avoir retirée, car cela pourrait être dangereux. Remplacez-la par une batterie neuve.

Le dissolvant pour adhésif iFixit est hautement inflammable. Effectuez cette procédure dans un endroit bien ventilé. Ne fumez pas et ne travaillez pas à proximité d'une flamme.

Pour minimiser les risques de dommages, allumez votre MacBook et laissez la batterie se décharger complètement avant de commencer. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut créer un incendie dangereux et incontrôlable en cas de perforation accidentelle. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez des précautions supplémentaires.

  1. Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
    • Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis Pentalobe P5 de 2,3 mm

    • Huit vis Pentalobe P5 de 3,0 mm

    • Tout au long de cette réparation, prenez note de l'emplacement de chaque vis, et assurez-vous qu'elle retrouvera sa place initiale pour éviter d'endommager votre appareil.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Réponse

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Réponse

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Réponse

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Réponse

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Réponse

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Réponse

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Réponse

  2. Glissez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
    • Glissez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.

    • Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers, soulevez et retirez le boîtier inférieur.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Réponse

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Réponse

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Réponse

  3. Le boîtier inférieur est attaché au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu. Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.
    • Le boîtier inférieur est attaché au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu.

    • Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Réponse

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

  4. Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.
    • Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Réponse

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Réponse

  5. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Réponse

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Réponse

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Réponse

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Réponse

  6. Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.
    • Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Réponse

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Réponse

  7. Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère. Retirez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S.
    • Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère.

    • Retirez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - Réponse

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman - Réponse

  8. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites sortir le connecteur de la carte E/S tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Veillez à faire seulement levier sur la nappe de la carte E/S et non sur la prise elle-même, vous risqueriez d'endommager la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites sortir le connecteur de la carte E/S tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Veillez à faire seulement levier sur la nappe de la carte E/S et non sur la prise elle-même, vous risqueriez d'endommager la carte mère.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - Réponse

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - Réponse

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - Réponse

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker - Réponse

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    jerrylaufer -

  9. Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas au cours des étapes suivantes. Pour éviter d'endommager la nappe, pliez-la seulement au niveau du coude à l'extrémité de la nappe la plus proche de la carte E/S.
    • Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas au cours des étapes suivantes.

    • Pour éviter d'endommager la nappe, pliez-la seulement au niveau du coude à l'extrémité de la nappe la plus proche de la carte E/S.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

  10. Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue de la spatule sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère. Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue de la spatule sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue de la spatule sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - Réponse

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - Réponse

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland - Réponse

  11. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit pour la dégager du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit pour la dégager du boîtier supérieur. Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit pour la dégager du boîtier supérieur.
    • Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit pour la dégager du boîtier supérieur.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - Réponse

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - Réponse

  12. Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :
    • Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

  13. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier. Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.
    • Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - Réponse

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - Réponse

  14. Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) sous la nappe du haut-parleur gauche au niveau du connecteur et débranchez la nappe de sa prise sur la carte mère. Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) sous la nappe du haut-parleur gauche au niveau du connecteur et débranchez la nappe de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Insérez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) sous la nappe du haut-parleur gauche au niveau du connecteur et débranchez la nappe de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Réponse

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Réponse

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Réponse

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - Réponse

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - Réponse

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - Réponse

  15. Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur :
    • Dévissez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut parleur gauche au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Réponse

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - Réponse

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - Réponse

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - Réponse

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - Réponse

  16. Soulevez le coin du haut-parleur gauche. Faites-le glisser pour le dégager de la batterie et le faire sortir du boîtier. Veillez à ne pas accrocher la nappe du haut-parleur au trou de vis sur le bord du boîtier. Veillez à ne pas accrocher la nappe du haut-parleur au trou de vis sur le bord du boîtier.
    • Soulevez le coin du haut-parleur gauche. Faites-le glisser pour le dégager de la batterie et le faire sortir du boîtier.

    • Veillez à ne pas accrocher la nappe du haut-parleur au trou de vis sur le bord du boîtier.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - Réponse

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - Réponse

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - Réponse

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - Réponse

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - Réponse

  17. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites sortir le connecteur du pavé tactile tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites sortir le connecteur du pavé tactile tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites sortir le connecteur du pavé tactile tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - Réponse

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

  18. Soulevez la nappe du pavé tactile et décollez-le de la bande adhésive la fixant sur la batterie. Faites attention à ne pas endommager la nappe. Si elle ne se décolle pas facilement, appliquez un peu de chaleur à l'aide d'un iOpener, d'un pistolet à air chaud ou d'un sèche-cheveux pour ramollir l'adhésif, puis essayez à nouveau.
    • Soulevez la nappe du pavé tactile et décollez-le de la bande adhésive la fixant sur la batterie.

    • Faites attention à ne pas endommager la nappe. Si elle ne se décolle pas facilement, appliquez un peu de chaleur à l'aide d'un iOpener, d'un pistolet à air chaud ou d'un sèche-cheveux pour ramollir l'adhésif, puis essayez à nouveau.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - Réponse

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - Réponse

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish - Réponse

  19. Si nécessaire, décollez toute bande adhésive recouvrant le connecteur de la nappe du pavé tactile. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue du connecteur ZIF. Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue du connecteur ZIF.
    • Si nécessaire, décollez toute bande adhésive recouvrant le connecteur de la nappe du pavé tactile.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue du connecteur ZIF.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - Réponse

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - Réponse

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - Réponse

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - Réponse

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - Réponse

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - Réponse

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - Réponse

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu - Réponse

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman - Réponse

  20. Faites glisser la nappe du tactile tout droit hors de sa prise ZIF sur la carte de contrôle du pavé tactile. Faites glisser la nappe du tactile tout droit hors de sa prise ZIF sur la carte de contrôle du pavé tactile.
    • Faites glisser la nappe du tactile tout droit hors de sa prise ZIF sur la carte de contrôle du pavé tactile.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - Réponse

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - Réponse

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - Réponse

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - Réponse

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - Réponse

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - Réponse

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - Réponse

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea - Réponse

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste - Réponse

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

  21. Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 3,7 mm fixant la carte de la batterie au boîtier supérieur.
    • Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 3,7 mm fixant la carte de la batterie au boîtier supérieur.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - Réponse

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert - Réponse

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan - Réponse

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker - Réponse

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 - Réponse

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin - Réponse

  22. Le dissolvant liquide d'adhésif fourni dans votre kit de remplacement de batterie iFixit peut affecter le revêtement antireflet de l'écran de votre MacBook Pro.
    • Le dissolvant liquide d'adhésif fourni dans votre kit de remplacement de batterie iFixit peut affecter le revêtement antireflet de l'écran de votre MacBook Pro.

    • Pour protéger votre écran, placez une feuille de papier aluminium entre l'écran et le clavier et laissez-la pendant la réparation.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - Réponse

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley - Réponse

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot - Réponse

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker - Réponse

  23. Si vous disposez d'un kit de batterie iFixit avec un dissolvant liquide pour adhésif, il est temps de l'inaugurer. Sinon, si vous suivez la méthode chaude avec iOpener, ignorez les trois étapes suivantes.
    • Si vous disposez d'un kit de batterie iFixit avec un dissolvant liquide pour adhésif, il est temps de l'inaugurer.

    • Sinon, si vous suivez la méthode chaude avec iOpener, ignorez les trois étapes suivantes.

    • Le dissolvant pour adhésif iFixit contient de l'acétone, une substance légèrement irritante pour la peau et les yeux.

    • Protégez vos yeux pendant que vous manipulez le dissolvant. (Une paire de lunettes de protection est incluse dans votre kit.)

    • Ne portez pas de lentilles sans mettre de lunettes de protection.

    • Des gants de protection sont également inclus dans le kit. Si vous craignez de vous irriter la peau, enfilez-les.

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman - Réponse

  24. Retirez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre flacon de dissolvant. Tournez pour desserrer ou retirer le bouchon applicateur du flacon avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Ceci descellera le flacon et permettra à la pression de s'égaliser avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Si vous sautez cette étape, le dissolvant peut gicler de façon inattendue quand vous coupez la pointe.
    • Retirez le bouchon en caoutchouc noir de votre flacon de dissolvant.

    • Tournez pour desserrer ou retirer le bouchon applicateur du flacon avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur.

    • Ceci descellera le flacon et permettra à la pression de s'égaliser avant de couper l'embout de l'applicateur. Si vous sautez cette étape, le dissolvant peut gicler de façon inattendue quand vous coupez la pointe.

    • Utilisez des ciseaux pour couper la pointe scellée de l'applicateur.

    • Si vous coupez près de la pointe étroite, vous aurez un meilleur contrôle pour appliquer le dissolvant en petites quantités.

    • Tournez et fermez le bouchon du flacon en toute sécurité avant de continuer.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - Réponse

  25. Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon uniforme sous le bord de la cellule de batterie la plus à droite.
    • Appliquez quelques gouttes de dissolvant de façon uniforme sous le bord de la cellule de batterie la plus à droite.

    • Vous n'avez pas besoin d'en utiliser beaucoup. La petite bouteille contient plus du double de la quantité de dissolvant nécessaire pour décoller toutes les cellules de la batterie.

    • Attendez 2 à 3 minutes que le dissolvant liquide pénètre sous la cellule, puis passez à l'étape suivante.

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan - Réponse

  26. Si vous n'avez pas de dissolvant liquide, utilisez un iOpener chaud pour chauffer et ramollir l'adhésif fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur, puis faites délicatement levier à cet endroit. Recouvrez la moitié des cellules de batterie de droite avec l'iOpener chaud.
    • Si vous n'avez pas de dissolvant liquide, utilisez un iOpener chaud pour chauffer et ramollir l'adhésif fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur, puis faites délicatement levier à cet endroit.

    • Recouvrez la moitié des cellules de batterie de droite avec l'iOpener chaud.

    • Au bout d'une minute, refaites chauffer l'iOpener et déposez-le sur l'autre moitié des cellules de batterie de droite.

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen - Réponse

  27. Insérez une carte en plastique entre la cellule de batterie la plus à droite et le boîtier supérieur et coupez l'adhésif entre les deux. Lors de cette procédure, veillez à n'endommager aucune des cellules de batterie avec vos outils. Une batterie lithium-ion endommagée peut laisser échapper des substances chimiques dangereuses et/ou prendre feu. Utilisez seulement des outils en plastique. Si vous suivez la méthode de l'iOpener chaud et que la batterie résiste beaucoup, arrêtez et refaites chauffer avec l'iOpener la zone sur laquelle vous travaillez.
    • Insérez une carte en plastique entre la cellule de batterie la plus à droite et le boîtier supérieur et coupez l'adhésif entre les deux.

    • Lors de cette procédure, veillez à n'endommager aucune des cellules de batterie avec vos outils. Une batterie lithium-ion endommagée peut laisser échapper des substances chimiques dangereuses et/ou prendre feu. Utilisez seulement des outils en plastique.

    • Si vous suivez la méthode de l'iOpener chaud et que la batterie résiste beaucoup, arrêtez et refaites chauffer avec l'iOpener la zone sur laquelle vous travaillez.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - Réponse

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - Réponse

  28. Répétez la procédure pour décoller la cellule adjacente : Appliquez une petite quantité de dissolvant liquide sous la cellule de la batterie et attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse. Ou bien refaites chauffer la zone avec votre iOpener, si nécessaire.
    • Répétez la procédure pour décoller la cellule adjacente :

    • Appliquez une petite quantité de dissolvant liquide sous la cellule de la batterie et attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse.

    • Ou bien refaites chauffer la zone avec votre iOpener, si nécessaire.

    • Insérez une carte en plastique d'environ 2,5 cm entre la cellule de batterie et le boîtier supérieur, et faites lentement levier pour les décoller de l'adhésif.

  29. Laissez pour l'instant votre carte en plastique sous les deux cellules de batterie de droite pour les empêcher de recoller au boîtier supérieur. Si vous utilisez un iOpener, refaites-le chauffer et reposez-le, cette fois sur les cellules de batterie de gauche. Laissez à nouveau l'iOpener agir dans chaque position pendant une minute environ et refaites-le chauffer entre, pour que chaque moitié des cellules de batterie de gauche soit chauffée.
    • Laissez pour l'instant votre carte en plastique sous les deux cellules de batterie de droite pour les empêcher de recoller au boîtier supérieur.

    • Si vous utilisez un iOpener, refaites-le chauffer et reposez-le, cette fois sur les cellules de batterie de gauche.

    • Laissez à nouveau l'iOpener agir dans chaque position pendant une minute environ et refaites-le chauffer entre, pour que chaque moitié des cellules de batterie de gauche soit chauffée.

  30. Répétez la procédure ci-dessus pour décoller les deux cellules de gauche du boîtier supérieur. N'oubliez pas d'appliquer une petite quantité de dissolvant sur chaque élément de la batterie, puis attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse. Utilisez une deuxième carte en plastique pour séparer les deux cellules de gauche et le boîtier supérieur.
    • Répétez la procédure ci-dessus pour décoller les deux cellules de gauche du boîtier supérieur.

    • N'oubliez pas d'appliquer une petite quantité de dissolvant sur chaque élément de la batterie, puis attendez 2 à 3 minutes qu'il pénètre et que l'adhésif ramollisse.

    • Utilisez une deuxième carte en plastique pour séparer les deux cellules de gauche et le boîtier supérieur.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Réponse

  31. Continuez la procédure avec la cellule adjacente : Insérez la carte en plastique entre la deuxième batterie de gauche et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif qui les colle en semble, et faites levier pour retirer la cellule du boîtier. Insérez la carte en plastique entre la deuxième batterie de gauche et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif qui les colle en semble, et faites levier pour retirer la cellule du boîtier.
    • Continuez la procédure avec la cellule adjacente :

    • Insérez la carte en plastique entre la deuxième batterie de gauche et le boîtier supérieur pour faire céder l'adhésif qui les colle en semble, et faites levier pour retirer la cellule du boîtier.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Réponse

  32. Laissez la deuxième carte dans le coin entre les deux cellules de gauche. Si vous utilisez un iOpener, refaites-le chauffer et posez-le sur les cellules du milieu de la batterie. Comme avant, laissez l'iOpener agir dans chaque position pendant une minute environ et refaites-le chauffer entre, pour que chaque moitié des cellules de batterie du milieu soit chauffée.
    • Laissez la deuxième carte dans le coin entre les deux cellules de gauche.

    • Si vous utilisez un iOpener, refaites-le chauffer et posez-le sur les cellules du milieu de la batterie.

    • Comme avant, laissez l'iOpener agir dans chaque position pendant une minute environ et refaites-le chauffer entre, pour que chaque moitié des cellules de batterie du milieu soit chauffée.

    • Pour les étapes suivante, servez-vous d'une troisième carte ou de la carte utilisée à droite. L'adhésif du coin droit devrait être suffisamment sec/refroidi pour que les cellules puissent être soulevées facilement en cas de besoin.

  33. Si vous utilisez le dissolvant liquide, appliquez quelques gouttes supplémentaires sous chacune des deux dernières cellules centrales. Il peut être utile de surélever un côté de votre MacBook Pro de quelques centimètres afin que le dissolvant coule dans la bonne direction, sous les cellules de batterie. Prenez un livre stable ou un bloc de mousse pour soutenir votre Mac pendant que vous travaillez. Attendez 2 à 3 minutes que le dissolvant pénètre avant de continuer.
    • Si vous utilisez le dissolvant liquide, appliquez quelques gouttes supplémentaires sous chacune des deux dernières cellules centrales.

    • Il peut être utile de surélever un côté de votre MacBook Pro de quelques centimètres afin que le dissolvant coule dans la bonne direction, sous les cellules de batterie. Prenez un livre stable ou un bloc de mousse pour soutenir votre Mac pendant que vous travaillez.

    • Attendez 2 à 3 minutes que le dissolvant pénètre avant de continuer.

    • Repliez délicatement les deux cellules de droite et insérez une carte en plastique sous la cellule au milieu à droite.

    • Insérez-y environ la moitié de la carte en plastique pour faire céder l'adhésif collant la cellule au boîtier.

    • Veillez à éviter la carte de contrôle du pavé tactile. Travaillez plus en direction de la carte mère, là où se trouve l'adhésif.

    • Laissez la carte en plastique pour empêcher l'adhésif de recoller.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - Réponse

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    Changement du pavé tactile (trackpad) du MacBook Pro 13" Retina début 2015

    ibash - Réponse

  34. Répétez la procédure pour la dernière des cellules. Repliez les cellules extérieures, insérez la moitié de la carte en plastique sous la batterie au milieu à gauche et évitez la carte du pavé tactile. Repliez les cellules extérieures, insérez la moitié de la carte en plastique sous la batterie au milieu à gauche et évitez la carte du pavé tactile.
    • Répétez la procédure pour la dernière des cellules.

    • Repliez les cellules extérieures, insérez la moitié de la carte en plastique sous la batterie au milieu à gauche et évitez la carte du pavé tactile.

  35. Retournez à la cellule au milieu à droite et faites pivoter la carte en plastique qui s'y trouve, afin de retirer complètement la batterie du boîtier supérieur. Maintenant tout l'adhésif fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur devrait être séparé et la batterie se retirer sans problèmes.
    • Retournez à la cellule au milieu à droite et faites pivoter la carte en plastique qui s'y trouve, afin de retirer complètement la batterie du boîtier supérieur.

    • Maintenant tout l'adhésif fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur devrait être séparé et la batterie se retirer sans problèmes.

    • Si ce n'est pas le cas, il faut refaire chauffer l'iOpener, le poser sur les zones collées et continuer à faire céder l'adhésif avec les cartes en plastique.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - Réponse

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - Réponse

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - Réponse

  36. Retirez la batterie. Avant d'installer votre nouvelle batterie, ôtez tous les résidus de colle du boîtier du MacBook Pro.
    • Retirez la batterie.

    • Avant d'installer votre nouvelle batterie, ôtez tous les résidus de colle du boîtier du MacBook Pro.

    • Avec un peu de chance, vous arriverez à enlever toutes les bandes d'adhésif avec vos doigts.

    • Sinon, imprégnez-les d'un peu de dissolvant, attendez 2 à 3 minutes et raclez-les à l'aide d'un outil d'ouverture en plastique ou un des autres outils de votre kit. Il s'agit d'un travail un peu pénible qui nécessite de la patience.

    • Épongez tous les résidus de dissolvant et laissez votre MacBook Pro sécher à l'air pendant quelques minutes.

    • La batterie de rechange incluse dans votre kit iFixit est déjà munie de bandes adhésives. Vérifiez bien l'emplacement de la batterie, puis enlevez le film recouvrant l'adhésif et mettez chaque cellule à sa place en enfonçant bien. En cas de films/doublures supplémentaires, absents sur votre batterie d'origine, retirez-les en dernier.

    • Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    • Si vous remarquez quelque chose d'inhabituel ou des problèmes après avoir installé votre nouvelle batterie, réinitialisez le contrôleur de gestion du système (SMC) de votre Mac.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - Réponse

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - Réponse

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - Réponse

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - Réponse

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - Réponse

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - Réponse

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - Réponse

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - Réponse

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - Réponse

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - Réponse

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - Réponse

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - Réponse

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - Réponse

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - Réponse

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - Réponse

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - Réponse

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - Réponse

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - Réponse

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo - Réponse

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read - Réponse

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm - Réponse

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman - Réponse

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will - Réponse

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers - Réponse

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin - Réponse

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin - Réponse

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach - Réponse

  37. Retirez les dix vis T3 de 2,8 mm fixant la plaque de protection du pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.
    • Retirez les dix vis T3 de 2,8 mm fixant la plaque de protection du pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    You’re right Dustin. fyi grainger has a fine t3 screwdriver for$7

    demingcomp - Réponse

  38. Retirez la plaque de protection du pavé tactile.
    • Retirez la plaque de protection du pavé tactile.

  39. Retirez les douze vis T5 de 2,4 mm fixant le pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.
    • Retirez les douze vis T5 de 2,4 mm fixant le pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - Réponse

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Réponse

    I’m facing the same problem

    I’m confused don’t know what to do now. Screws are hard and won’t turn. Please help!

    Raphael Nii Laate Lartey -

    For anyone else that runs into this problem, you can check out our guide to removing stripped screws for some more options.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Réponse

  40. Soulevez et retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier. Soulevez et retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier. Soulevez et retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier.
    • Soulevez et retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier.

    Screws set with Locktite, may require a little more torque to remove.

    Michael Dittl - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

Apportez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.

La réparation ne s'est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez notre communauté pour obtenir de l'aide pour le dépannage.

57 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Membre depuis le 17/10/2009

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26 commentaires

Is there a way to get a calibration software somehow ? Is Apple offering paid calibration service and what is the cost?

Windcatcher - Réponse

I just followed this repair guide. NO calibration whatsoever needed. It worked like a charm (like new) once I assembled everything back together.

No software needed

David Chin -

If you do this yourself, Apple will not touch your laptop with a 10-foot pole, you will have voided any existing warranty. They would require you to purchase a new trackpad from them and they will install/calibrate it themselves

MacAmbulance - Réponse

Can you only replace the control board of the trackpad ?

Gilliano - Réponse

I don’t think they sell the control board separate from the trackpad panel - comes soldered together

David Chin -

“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. “ Ah, yes, because now that the adhesive on the battery has been removed it should apparently still work! What a dumb reassembly instruction. You don’t sell the adhesive strips on their own either.

Michael Rasmussen - Réponse

This is a valid point, sir. I recently had to replace the battery and in going through that process realized once the battery was finally freed from the bondage of adhesive that was remarkably overboard for securing a battery in a laptop, there it was… access to the trackpad. All that was stopping me were those 10, I repeat 10! Torx! Screws! that were yet a different size than the majorrity of the torx screws securing other components. I never did venture further as I was ready to be finished, the task at hand had proved to be arduous enough. It does give one a good perspective however this mother &&^&@* is NOT an easy to repair laptop. While the potential exists for many of the components to be replaced, it certainly isn’t a cake walk.

eeM Gee -

Worked like a charm! In my case I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

My wifes MAC was already out of warranty, and the official authorized service in Slovakia asked 480 € for replacement of the whole trackpad, battery, keyboard and topcase. So I bought the flex from eBay, replaced it myself and fixed it for just 15 €. Really really HUGE THANKS for this repair guide

Brachaci Brachacovsky - Réponse

I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

Thx for this comment! Laptop fully functional again.

Symptoms I noticed:

- first my touchpad didn’t work during login (1 or 2 times), but did after logging in (keyboard still worked)

- later my touchpad and keyboard didn’t work (“no keyboard connected“ warning), even after logging in with usb keyboard

Tjen Wellens -

I just finished! It had a million screws! Ok, so first of all there is NO adjustment needed for the haptic feedback. Works perfect. This is for the LATE 2015 13.3” MacBook Pro retina. I did not use the microwave heat thing nor did I use the adhesive remover liquid. I used a two inch paint spatula and slid it under the battery one at a time extremely slow and carefully lifted each battery from the edge and let the adhesive slowly separate as I i pried it up. The batteries did not tear but the adhesive was not reusable. I used double sided tape when I put them back in. Be prepared and make sure you have all three screw drivers before you begin. One last thing, I had to go back to the store three times because I kept ruining the screw driver heads. These screws are so tiny and in there really good in some places. The screws won’t strip but the screw driver sure will. Push down hard and don’t tighten to hard!

Erik - Réponse

I had to only do apart of this tutorial, which was to replace the trackpad cable, because my keyboard and mouse stopped working the other night. Very simple and this was very helpful. Like many others have found that most replacement cables are a little longer than the originals but I just gently bent the cable along with the contours of the plastic and other pieces that it sat on top of.

Bradley Clampitt - Réponse

Followed the tutorial, worked perfectly. However, now my keyboard stopped working (the trackpad is ok now). Any ideas where I may have gone wrong?

Bert Van Wassenhove - Réponse

How are we supposed to glue the battery back together? Should we heat it up to activate the adhesive strip, I tried it and it worked only weakly….

Should we use super glue?

benjamin parpillon - Réponse

As a general rule, you shouldn’t re-use the battery once it has been removed—you want to replace it with a new one. The battery isn’t designed to be removed and can easily get damaged in the process. Reinstalling it afterward puts your MacBook at risk and may be a fire hazard. Remove the battery, remove the old adhesive as instructed, and replace it with a new one. The replacement battery should have new adhesive pre-installed, so there’s no need for any super glue. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Does the trackpad replacement requires that the battery also should be replaced? I have a crackling sound under the trackpad. Genius mentioned that the circuitry attached to the trackpad is making sound because of the spill. I would like to know if i should by battery and the trackpad and replace both or just trackpad with all the tools.

Thank you

Kartik Shah - Réponse

Are there other tutorials for replacing the force touch trackpad for this model?

The one here is a bit different to the one I have, though both are for the same force touch model macbook pro.

For example;

T5 screws in my trackpad cover plate are different from T3 screws for the cover plate in the above guide.

Here is the replacement part I bought.

Thanks,

Monsieur Bond - Réponse

Hello all, this is the first time I’m typing anything beyond the basic tests after replacing my trackpad cable. It wouldn’t have seemed obvious to me, but after going to the Apple store to investigate my ‘keyboard not working’ issues, they reported that I might, first, try replacing the trackpad cable. For $80 U.S. they’d order and install the cable for me, <fingers crossed>. I Decided I’d rather do that myself. I ordered the part from fixit for $10 plus $5 shipping (and some stickers too) and put my two specialty screwdrivers, spudger and finesse top the test. Other than skipping from Step 3 to 17, my keyboard worked right after I powered back up. Super happy with fixit. Thanks for making this site, thanks Andrew for making this page, thanks everyone else for commenting. Can we make sure there’s a way to let people who are trying to resolve the KEYBOARD NOT WORKING issue might actually be a try-replacing-the-trackpad-cable SOLUTION?

thanks again, Brandt

Brandt Sennhenn - Réponse

I would start off replacing the cable then you’ll likely need a new touchpad if that fails to fix things.

Dan -

Hi, my trackpad isn’t vibrating, do i need to replace only the cable or replace the trackpad with new one?

anakin skywalker - Réponse

You need a new touchpad unit

Dan -

Do i need to buy a new battery for this repair?

Benjamin H - Réponse

It would make sense! Your current battery likely needs replacing soon anyways. It depends how difficult it was to take out and if it’s damaged in the process (which you often do).

Dan -

Empecé a seguir este tutorial porque tanto el trackpad como el teclado dejaron de funcionar. Lo seguí paso a paso hasta el punto de quitar las baterías. Al no tener a mano esa herramienta, decidí esperar a que me llegase para continuar.

Antes de cerrarlo, limpié toda la placa y los conectores con una brocha y Alcohol isopropílico. Cuando acabé lo volví a conectar todo y lo cerré de nuevo. Al encender el portátil para ver si todo esta bien, me di cuenta de que tanto el teclado como el Trackpad funcionaban perfectamente. SOLO NECESITABAN UNA BUENA LIMPIEZA.

Gracias por la guía de desmontaje.

Naomi Díaz - Réponse

I just did this today, my liquid damaged laptop is now working perfectly! I was a bit intimidated by the battery replacement but it really wasn’t so bad. I used 99% alcohol and an old credit card and with a bit of cautious perseverance it all came up. The hardest part was replacing the trackpad cable, it’s too long and has to be bent to fit into the case, I was scared to pinch it into a proper “fold”. My case is a tiny bit poofed out now and I can’t get the remaining 2 screws in. Not sure whether to try again with it or just leave it now. In any case I’m happy that the keyboard and trackpad is functional again!

Georgina Hardcastle - Réponse

Can I purchase the trackpad cable by itself?

Faliere Dieujuste - Réponse

If you find it, why not?

Daniele Carminati -

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