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Introduction

I've had my MX Master for more than 3 years, which is plenty of time to accumulate dust and dog fur. There was enough dust inside the mouse to create friction on the scroll wheel, slowing it down, so I decided to clean it. I also wanted to know if I could upgrade the micro USB port to USB-C. (spoiler alert: no)

Pièces

Aucune pièce spécifiée.

  1. That's a lot of gunk!
    • That's a lot of gunk!

  2. The mouse has four feet on the bottom, but only the two long ones need to be removed. I used the Jimmy from the Pro Tech Toolkit. I didn't have new feet on hand, so I had to reuse the original ones. This is why there's no step for cleaning the adhesive off and putting new feet on.
    • The mouse has four feet on the bottom, but only the two long ones need to be removed. I used the Jimmy from the Pro Tech Toolkit.

    • I didn't have new feet on hand, so I had to reuse the original ones. This is why there's no step for cleaning the adhesive off and putting new feet on.

    It makes sense to remove them with heat. That way there is a possibility to return them back to the mouse.

    Stjepan - Réponse

  3. Rev up those screwdrivers! The first wave consists of four PH1 and two T5 screws on the bottom. Once those are taken care of, the mouse should be easy to pop open. Once those are taken care of, the mouse should be easy to pop open.
    • Rev up those screwdrivers! The first wave consists of four PH1 and two T5 screws on the bottom.

    • Once those are taken care of, the mouse should be easy to pop open.

  4. When opening the mouse take into account the position of the clamps so you won't pop more than you want. When opening the mouse take into account the position of the clamps so you won't pop more than you want.
    • When opening the mouse take into account the position of the clamps so you won't pop more than you want.

    Totally unclear how exactly to open it….

    Service Tool - Réponse

  5. Pop the connector open with whatever tool you find works best, unless you're like me and accidentally pulled the cable out of the connector in the previous step.
    • Pop the connector open with whatever tool you find works best, unless you're like me and accidentally pulled the cable out of the connector in the previous step.

    Well, THAT BROKE. Any advice on how to keep it in without the connector?

    Andrei Pierre - Réponse

    Which part broke?

    Skylar - Réponse

    How do I re-attach the ribbon cable?

    Peter Szabo - Réponse

  6. This is the part where I realize I need better lighting. Set the top half aside for now. Removal of the battery consists of three PH1 screws and one connector that really doesn't want to come loose. Set the top half aside for now. Removal of the battery consists of three PH1 screws and one connector that really doesn't want to come loose.
    • This is the part where I realize I need better lighting.

    • Set the top half aside for now. Removal of the battery consists of three PH1 screws and one connector that really doesn't want to come loose.

  7. Time for a bit change! The PCB housing the switches for left and right clicks comes off with four P0 screws and another ZIF connector. The scroll wheel assembly is held in with two P0 screws at the front. There's also a connector for the motor hiding under the ribbon cable for the PCB you just removed. These screws aren't visible in this step, but can be seen in the previous one. I'm terrible at taking pictures.
    • Time for a bit change! The PCB housing the switches for left and right clicks comes off with four P0 screws and another ZIF connector.

    • The scroll wheel assembly is held in with two P0 screws at the front. There's also a connector for the motor hiding under the ribbon cable for the PCB you just removed.

    • These screws aren't visible in this step, but can be seen in the previous one. I'm terrible at taking pictures.

    • You can see some of the debris causing my scrolling issues in the last photo.

  8. Three more P0 screws hold this one in place. Be careful to put the little doohickey on the red wire back in place (I can't remember the name)
    • Three more P0 screws hold this one in place.

    • Be careful to put the little doohickey on the red wire back in place (I can't remember the name)

    • We can see the micro USB connector on the underside. Unfortunately, I can't upgrade it to USB-C with the equipment I have.

    • I have the equipment to clean it though! A can of compressed air was all I needed.

  9. I couldn't get the wheel out of the assembly, but I was able to   spin it with some compressed air. I didn't get it on video, but a big chunk of dust came flying out. I apologize in advance for filming in portrait mode. Also, I failed to get a shot of the debris inside the wheel. That spring on the bottom in the first picture will probably fall off. Make sure to keep track of it.
    • I couldn't get the wheel out of the assembly, but I was able to spin it with some compressed air. I didn't get it on video, but a big chunk of dust came flying out.

    • I apologize in advance for filming in portrait mode. Also, I failed to get a shot of the debris inside the wheel.

    • That spring on the bottom in the first picture will probably fall off. Make sure to keep track of it.

    • I took the assembly apart in an effort to get the wheel out - no dice. I don't know where this oddly shaped spring goes, possibly on this peg, but I left it out and it doesn't seem to be important.

    I had jam stuck in the casing of the wheel, but the pins of the wheel are firm in place and you can’t remove it from that transparent casing. So I removed the trigger that activates the ratcheting feature. You have to remove the screw that is in the casing. That holds the trigger in place. Then disconnect the spring from the center of the case and slide out the trigger. Then I brought a galss of hot water and dipped the casing and wheel inside and with an end of a zip tie (that is very thin and at the same time very firm and also will not scratch the metal part of the wheel) I esealy removed the dust and jam that was jamming the spin of my wheel and used a tissue to dry the assembaly as I cleaned. Be careful not to get the motor wet though. You can remove the motor and just dip the whole thing in. I also poped out the pin halfway from one side of the wheel by pulling the casing apart a little to make easier access. Be careful not break the casing with too much pressure as that will be it for your MX Master!

    hamidreza saleh - Réponse

    I was able to remove the wheel with a butter knife, I forced out the pin on the side opposite the ratchet jammed my finger in a way to stop it slipping, then pried the knife in the other side and levered the other side away. It made a bit of a scary noise but nothing broke. I got it bck in my sitting the wheel holder on a flat surface, pushed down, and pried the plastic apart on the ratchet side with the knife, and it popped in all at once. As a warning though, the friction of the scroll wheel appears to have increased, it no longer scrolls for forever, but just a few seconds when given a hard flick. I was only game enough to try getting the wheel out cos I recently got the MX Master 3 cos the tracking stopped working on my MX Master (It worked again as soon as I opened it though)

    Ethan Corney - Réponse

    I can confirm that what Ethan said works. Basically you need to push the left side of the wheel (side without the blades) out first and then stick the knife in on the other side and turn a little bit.

    Jonathan Tsoi -

  10. You can follow steps 5-8 in reverse in order to put the bottom back together. The top just needs a bit of compressed air, no disassembly required.
    • You can follow steps 5-8 in reverse in order to put the bottom back together.

    • The top just needs a bit of compressed air, no disassembly required.

    • You can press the buttons down to gain easier access to the debris.

  11. After following steps 1-4 in reverse, your mouse is clean again! And probably cleaner than mine.
    • After following steps 1-4 in reverse, your mouse is clean again! And probably cleaner than mine.

Conclusion

Insert conclusion here?

17 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Skylar

Membre depuis le 22/01/2015

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1 tutoriel rédigé

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Donut Membre de l'équipe Donut

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I followed your guide and I found a problem when I put everything together again. Now I turn on the mouse and it’s broken. The battery leds just blink and it doesn’t respond to pressing the channel selection or connect buttons, it just doesn’t work or sincronizes with the dongle, just shows the battery leds blinking. Anyone has any suggestion? Many thanks.

Juan Suarez - Réponse

I have the same problem (all three LED’s blink green and no response to pressing channel selection or connect buttons) that Juan Suarez describes.

I would also be happy for any suggestions on how to fix the issue.

Max -

And? Did you find a way to fix it?

Nicholas Blair -

Unfortunately I did not.

Max -

Have you tried reseating the ribbon cables?

Skylar -

I would recommend applying heat to the feet before removing them. I damaged one. Used heat and the second one came off and went back on perfectly.

charlie - Réponse

This is something I recommend as well since I now do not have the feet back. I removed them with a scalpel and the adhesive is now missing. I think it makes sense to apply heat (hair heater) and just remove them and put back on.

Stjepan -

My scroll wheel stopped responding to input. After cleaning out all the lint from the scroll wheel I still has issues. I cleaned off the boards and wiped down the mouse wheel sensor and ir emitter. Tested it out and it’s working again.

David Johnson - Réponse

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