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Vidéo d'introduction

Cette vue éclatée n'est pas un tutoriel de réparation. Pour réparer votre Nintendo Switch, utilisez notre manuel de réparation.

  1. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch, Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 1, image 1 de 2 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch, Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Merry Switchmas à tous ! Voici ce que la nouvelle console de jeux hybride portable/de salon de Nintendo inclut côté hardware:

    • Un processeur Tegra NVIDIA sur mesure

    • Un écran LCD tactile multipoint avec une résolution1280 × 720 (capable d'un rendu 1920 × 1080 sur un écran externe via HDMI)

    • 32 Go de stockage interne (jusqu'à 2 To de stockage supplémentaire via carte microSDHC ou microSDXC)

    • Wi-Fi 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac, Bluetooth 4.1, port de charge USB Type-C, et une prise casque 3,5 mm sur la console - plus trois ports USB standards sur la station d'accueil Switch Dock.

    • Des haut-parleurs stéréo

    • Une batterie lithium-ion rechargeable capable de 2,5 à 6,5 heures de jeu.

    • Des Joy-Cons détachables et sans fil

  2. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 2, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 2, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 2, image 3 de 3
    • Les démontages sont vraiment difficiles, alors nos amis de chez Creative Electron pensaient pouvoir nous faire gagner du temps en faisant une radio de la boîte entière.

    • Encore plus excités par ces radios, nous n'avons plus qu'une envie : faire un tour approfondi de l'hardware. Une fois la console sortie de sa boîte, nous faisons une autre radio juste pour le plaisir.

    • Est-ce une batterie costaude que nous apercevons ?

    • Il est temps d'éteindre les rayons X et de sortir les outils.

    propaganda? where?

    Daniel Arens - Réponse

    They spy, we spy but we won't tapp that...

    Mike Atkins - Réponse

    A beefy battery? Where? *Laugh track*

    Jackson Peter Conway - Réponse

  3. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 3, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 3, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 3, image 3 de 3
    • Avant de nous lancer, nous regardons ce que la Nintendo Switch nous propose : la console en elle-même, deux Joy-Con, une station d'accueil et le support Joy-Con.

    • Avec les Joy-Con attachés, la Switch mesure environ 239 mm de largeur, 102 mm de hauteur et seulement 13,9 mm de profondeur.

    • Malgré le plus en fonctionnalité, la console ne pèse que 398 grammes – alors que le Wii U GamePad en fait 500.

  4. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 4, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 4, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 4, image 3 de 3
    • Commençons le démontage !

    • La première chose que nous remarquons c'est le logo de Domino bizarre numéro de modèle - HAC-OO1.

    • En vitesse, les ports incluent :

    • Un lecteur MicroSD situé sous le support (qui est étonnament rigide)

    • USB-C (pour la station d'accueil)

    • Une prise casque standard de 3,5 mm

    • Un port carte jeu propriétaire Nintendo

    • Le ventilateur évacue l'air par le haut de l'appareil, et d'après les rapports initiaux, la Switch a une utilisation élevée de ce dispositif de refroidissement lorsqu'elle branchée sur la station d'accueil et que la résolution est poussée à 1080p.

    Any chance the USB-C port supports Thunderbolt 3? I've been holding out hope it does and Nintendo will sell a "Pro Dock" that has an eGPU for better performance while docked.

    Toby Turner - Réponse

    You could do that with USB 3.1..

    SpyderCanopus - Réponse

    3.5mm headphone jack. You didn't mention anything about TRRS. Does that mean that there is no audio / microphone in?

    Nicholas Wagner - Réponse

  5. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 5, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 5, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 5, image 3 de 3
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Mako Driver Kit - 64 Precision Bits
    $39.95
    J'achète
    • C'est décevant de découvrir que l'entée de Hyrule la Switch est gardée par des vis tri-point, mais nous avons besoin de seulement 1/64ème de notre force musculaire pour les défaire.

    • Les vis tri-point, c'est la version Nintendo du panneau "Interdiction d'entrer", mais une fois ce cap passé, la coque arrière s'enlève facilement, il n'y a ni clips ni adhésif.

    • Notre premier coup d'œil ne révèle pas grand chose. Juste une plaque métallique.

    • Par contre, une fois enlevé, le lecteur microSD est facilement remplaçable. Bonne nouvelle pour le stockage futur !

    Whats the model of SD card reader will it read UHS 3 SD cards??

    peacepipe_au - Réponse

    2mm Tri-Wing screws.

    Aaron Taylor - Réponse

    OK, This is extremely misleading. Good thing I’m a repair tech. There are also about 5 more phillips screws around that need to be removed before the back will come off. One by the SD card reader, one on each side in the center, 2 on the bottom and one on the top

    Jonathan White - Réponse

    Hi Jonathan, this is just a teardown, and as such we skip some disassembly steps to get to the more interesting stuff quicker. It’s not meant to be used as a repair guide. We do have more more in-depth guides here that can be referenced for repairs.

    Adam O'Camb - Réponse

    For some reason my screws were different in my switch I was trying to repair. I ordered the screwdriver that came with 2 bits and the se card reader but the bits wouldn’t fit the screws.

    caleb payne - Réponse

    There are more screws than this guide will say.

    1x middle of each joy-con rail (2 total).

    2x bottom near the charge port

    1x top near the audio jack

    1x just under the microSD flap

    each is a small Phillips head.

    Misunderstood Wookiee - Réponse

    Hi! Sorry for the confusion with screws! This is a teardown! There is a warning at the top but it might have been missed: “This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo Switch, use our service manual.”

    Chris Cline - Réponse

    The platic thread of one of the screws broke while screwing it out.. I used to push the screw a little bit to prevent over-turning the head while unscrewing - it broke while pushing. Maybe it was a bad assembly, but its worth mentioning that it can possibly break inside.. and you have to deal with a loose screw after then. (Any Ideas?)

    Varco - Réponse

    How can you to a teardown guide, without showing witch screws to remove, i thought you ifixit guys knew your stuf and were indebth, will find another guide screw this

    Mathias rønne - Réponse

    Yeah I'm attempting something that requires complete disassembly, it would be nice to have a generic guide for that that includes all the steps rather than having to look up how to remove each individual component. I thought the teardown would be the obvious place for that, but apparently this is just, what, for entertainment purposes? Idk, I think it's definitely possible to show all the interesting internals while giving a detailed step-by-step guide for total disassembly, especially for guys like me who mainly just need to know where the screws are.

    Joshua Coffey - Réponse

  6. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Et maintenant le moment tant attendu ... la découverte de l'intérieur. Enfin ça arrive !

    • Ca ... a l'air d'un ordinateur ! La batterie, le caloduc, la pâte thermique, le ventilateur, tout y est.

    • Clairement, les priorités de la Switch sont la batterie et le refroidissement.

    • Vu l'apparence de la goutte violette, cette plaque métallique représente plus qu'un support structural. C'est également un dissipateur thermique qui canalise la chaleur du caloduc vers le boîtier arrière.

    • Ceci devrait diffuser la chaleur, et éviter des points chauds qui pourraient faire fondre le plastique ou bruler vos doigts.

    If we were to remove the back plate, what should we use to replace the purple compound used to transfer heat. Should we use typical CPU/GPU thermal paste such as Arctic Silver or is it even necessary to replace the compound?

    Ambyli - Réponse

    i don’t think it would hurt to do so, but i am no expert.

    Grockle88 _ - Réponse

    I would like to replace the purple glob with a copper shim, any guesses to the distance between the heat sink and aluminum shield?

    Alan Li - Réponse

    is the battery a single or multi-cell unit?

    joseph.s.schaefer - Réponse

  7. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 7, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 7, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • La sécurité d'abord - nous nous occupons du connecteur de la batterie avant de décoller ce truc de son adhésif.

    • La plupart des consoles ont un bloc d'alimentation, mais la portabilité de la Switch exige une alimentation sans fil. Et en général, ceci implique une durée de vie limitée.

    • Contrairement à la 3DS, la batterie de la Switch n'est pas censée être remplaçable par l'utilisateur. Au lieu de cela, Nintendo "prévoit" de proposer un service de remplacement payant.

    • La Switch comporte une batterie 16 Wh - plus puissante que la batterie remplaçable de 5,6 Wh du Wii U GamePad. Mais d'un autre côté, cette batterie doit alimenter une console entière et non seulement un écran.

    How is this battery not "User replaceable"?

    Bally - Réponse

    It is user replaceable, but it was meant to cause replacement difficulty, which discourages inexperienced repairers.

    Russell Repair Co. -

    It means is not that easy, you have to tear it down almost completely in order to replace it.

    Ricardo Briceño - Réponse

    The lack of a user replaceable battery in this thing is BY FAR the lamest thing about it IMO... Though unfortunatly to be fair Vita's the same way. SO crazy lame.

    Also sort of weird it has a cooling fan. I wasn't expecting that. Maybe it's off when undocked and running slower?

    wolfpup3 - Réponse

    whats the weight of the switch battery in grams? and what type of battery cell is it?

    justin thorpe - Réponse

    @Ricardo - I’m no fan of having to tear it down a bit to replace the battery, but this is by no means having to “tear it down almost completely in order to replace it.” I mean dude, steps 1-5 of this tear down consist of looking at the device, identifying the ports, and removing a few screws. After the screws you just lift the metal shield and unplug your battery. Not exactly rocket science. Step 5 even says, “but once you're past them the back cover lifts off easily—no clips or adhesive” so this couldn’t possibly get any easier. In fact after I remove those tri-point screws, I’ll just replace them with normal screws for future ease.

    Army Turtle - Réponse

    Can this battery be charged by power bank ? (5V 1-2A?) any recomendations how to “mobile-charge” this console ?

    Rodryk Pawłowski - Réponse

    Yes, it can be done. With a 20000 mAh power bank the portable console can last at least 10 hours while enjoying a game like MHXX.

    Irrawa -

    Hello, my battery connector is broken. Anybody knows where can I buy a new one?

    Thanks,

    joan

    Joan - Réponse

    No glue breaker.?

    Jean Ordehi - Réponse

  8. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 8, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 8, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 8, image 3 de 3
    • Une fois la batterie vaincue, nous nous tournons vers la prochaine priorité au niveau hardware : le système de refroidissement.

    • Le caloduc est maintenu par de simples vis cruciformes, donc une nouvelle application de pâte thermique devrait être très facile.

    • Nous visons le ventilateur, mais on dirait qu'on ne peux que le nettoyer d'ici - il est bloqué sous la carte E/S.

    • Nous retirons donc le lecteur de carte jeu, ainsi que la prise casque attachée.

    • Et non, nous n'avons léché aucune cartouche.

    • Contrôleur écran tactile STMicroelectronics FingerTip, du côté opposé du lecteur de carte de jeu

    Is the 3.5 mm jack a TRS or TRRS?

    Erin Lewis - Réponse

    Is the chassis metal? It looks metalic through the screw holes.

    alan mail - Réponse

    Yes. It is metallic.

    Diego Salerno - Réponse

    @elrinley I’m sure you’ve figured this out by now, but according to Nintendo the jack is a 4-pole headphone/mic jack.

    https://www.nintendo.com/switch/tech-spe...

    I was looking for the same information and ended up here! :)

    ckoerner - Réponse

  9. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 9, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 9, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 9, image 3 de 3
    • Une fois la carte E/S enlevée, nous pouvons nous concentrer sur le ventilateur.

    • Ce ventilateur de Delta electronics est fixé par trois vis avec des supports anti-vibrations en caoutchouc , et il est conçu pour une tension de 5V et 0,33 A.

    • Un ventilateur peut être l'arrêt de mort pour la durée de vie d'une batterie dans tout appareil portable, donc il y a un sens aux rumeurs disant qu'il y aurait un underclocking considérable du SOC lorsqu'on n'est pas branché sur la station d'accueil.

    • La Switch économise de l'énergie non seulement en utilisant moins de pixels, mais aussi en réduisant l'usage du ventilateur.

    I have a switch that won't power up but clicks for a few seconds when the new battery is replaced. Is it the fan taking the power so it can boot up or is it the fan is broken and prevents it from starting up?

    Kirsty Cobbold - Réponse

  10. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 10, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 10, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 10, image 3 de 3
    • C'est une carte mère bien connectée. Pour la libérer, nous enlevons le numériseur, le rétro-éclairage, les connecteurs du haut-parleur, deux antennes et les deux glissières pour les Joy-Con. Puis, nous retirons six vis cruciformes.

    • Mais bon, c'est d'une modularité impressionnante ! Même les modules de stockage eMMC ont droit à un circuit imprimé indépendant.

    • Nintendo a fait une tablette de 6,2" avec un stockage flash amovible, alors ne dites pas que c'est impossible !

    • La carte de stockage comporte une simple circuit intégré Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL 32 Go eMMC NAND Flash

    • Malheureusement, la modularité s'arrête au port USB-C. Le remplacement de ce composant fréquemment utilisé nécessite de bonnes connaissances en matière de soudure.

    What does "Side-A" of the HAC-EMMC daughter board containing the single Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL 32 GB eMMC NAND Flash IC look like?

    Jonathan Stanley - Réponse

    The USB port is soldered to the board conatining the most important hardware? I'd almost call this a form of planned obsolescence

    Nicola Pfister - Réponse

    my usb c port just gave up on me and nintendo say it's not covered under the warranty. … the switch has hardly left the dock! nintendo say 175 pounds to replace the port! looks like i need to find another option! like learn to solder!

    steve -

    Is the flash soldered on to the PCB? If so, I wonder how hard it is to remove and swap with a bigger eMMC flash drive from Toshiba.

    Jerome Santander - Réponse

    Looks like a Toshiba does make a 512Gb NAND flash model. Now the only question is can you switch between two flashes before bootup with this.

    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e...

    b0n3z - Réponse

    I just succesfully  soldered a new usb C port to the switch but it's pretty hard to do.

    First of all, I used a hot air soldering workstation. Replaced all the (presumably) leadfree solder with normal leaded solder for better flexibility and a lower melting point. The difficult part is to make both rows of connections connect. This can be achieved by heating the board on the other side while somehow keeping pressure on the usbport and making sure the plastic components of the usbport don't melt. Quite a challenge!

    What did the trick, for me at least, was to cut out a metal strip from a soda can, folded over and cut to the exact same width as to cover the plastic and serve as a heatshield. Also I used no-clean solderflux.

    dan.kusters - Réponse

    Nice. Thanks for sharing your experience.

    Lisandro Duran -

    I also replaced the USb C port with a hot air soldering station. The most difficult part was to clean the 4 holes on the pbc that anchor the port. They must be completely cleaned from any soldering residual because you need to be able to freely push the port down against the pbc once the 24 ports pads are heated and with the solder melted.

    Diego Salerno - Réponse

    I can feel you! I’m still trying to get all the solder out of the 4 holes. I begin to believe that I’m just to stupid to achieve it.

    Nintendoc -

    Just to share some experience: I got a (heavily) used Switch that worked fine in handheld mode, but would cut off TV output always after a few minutes or even seconds when docked. The dock is fine, as is the USB-C connector. So I disassembled the whole thing and found the USB multiplexer (PI3USB30532) on the back side of the mainboard (see step 12) to be improperly soldered. One row of pins was slightly lifted off from the PCB, most likely giving a bad contact on some differential pairs. This obviously was a manufacturing problem but may have gone unnoticed in the factory tests. I then added some solder to the pins and now the Switch works flawlessly, also when docked.

    phip - Réponse

  11. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Un petit rassemblement de Mii CI colonisent l'avant de la carte mère :

    • NVIDIA ODNX02-A2 (vraisemblablement un SoC basé sur le Tegra X1)

    • Samsung K4F6E304HB-MGCH 2 GoLPDDR4 DRAM (x2 pour un total de 4 GB)

    • Broadcom/Cypress BCM4356 802.11ac 2×2 + Bluetooth 4.1 SoC

    • Un régulateur buck trois phases Maxim Integrated MAX77621AEWI+T (x2)

    • Contrôleur USB-C BM92T36 Rohm

    • Chargeur de batterie à cellule unique BQ24193 Texas Instruments (éventuellement)

    • Capteur de température local/à distance TMP451 Texas Instruments

    Is that an LCI near the USB-C connector?

    Positive Intent - Réponse

    There’s the connectivity issue! The series elements in the T-networks feeding the RF connectors are unpopulated, meaning the antennas aren’t connected. This is probably causing a 20dB-40dB hit in RF performance and decreasing battery life. If this is a production unit, Nintendo has a recall on their hands; software can’t fix that.

    john horne - Réponse

    To be fair, there is a chance those series components have a tiny net tie across them, shorting them out. I can't tell from these photos. This would be cheaper than a jumper resistor, even at $0.001 each. They avoided slikscreen which does indicate they might be trying to aggressively keep PCB costs down. I wish I could get a closer look.

    john horne -

    What kind of adapter would you choose to replace the battery interface adapter? JST EH5P ST90 or something else?

    Hans Müller - Réponse

    Has anyone found the original manufacturer and partnumber of the USB-Port?

    I did find a part that looks similar, but not perfectly the same: Amphenol-MCP 101-C4740-02432

    Benedikt M. - Réponse

    Where do you get MAX77621AEWI+T ? Nobody has them in stock.

    chayney shuck - Réponse

    Im surprised this didnt lose reparability points for the soldered rather than replaceable usb port.

    Kiernan - Réponse

    Is the ram upgradable or directly soldered? If upgradable, would it require software, or do you think it is plug & play?

    azileangel4u - Réponse

    Unfortunately the RAM’s directly soldered.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I know that there are 2 different motherboards so i was wondering, on the newer motherboard the section with the Maxim Integrated MAX77621AEWI+T three phase buck regulator, that is in-between the temp sensor and bluetooth, mine does not have any of those components right there. any way to update the pictures for people who are currently looking so they know. It also looks like the buck regulator has changed also

    Davin Atkins - Réponse

    sorry the motherboard in it is HAD-CPU-01

    Davin Atkins -

  12. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Et sur le dos de la carte mère :

    • Commutateur de matrice semi-conducteur Pericom PI3USB30532

    • Codec audio Realtek ALC5639

    • Maxim Integrated MAX77620AEWJ+T PMIC (circuit intégré de gestion d'énergie)

    • B1633 GCBRG HAC STD T1001216 (probablement un MCU sécurisé Nintendo)

    • Accéléromètre/gyroscope 3 axes LSM6DS3H STMicroelectronics (probablement)

    • Jauge de charge de la batterie MAX17050 Maxim Integrated

    • Capteur de lumière ambiante BH1603FVC Rohm

    How come the accelerometer and gyroscope was never labeled for both the main system or the controllers? I didn’t even know the main system had them until a researched out Super Mario Party did it’s adjacent screens trick. Then I checked Nintendo’s own website which states that it has one.

    obiwankenobi23 - Réponse

    Modern accel + gyro ICs are tiny and often use cryptic package markings that can take a fair bit of work for us to identify. We’d love to research and label them all, but we don’t always have the time. They’re definitely in there though!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  13. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 13, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 13, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 13, image 3 de 3
    • Les haut-parleurs stéréo sont légèrement collés au boîtier arrière, mais ne résistent pas longtemps.

    • Ces haut-parleurs font tout pour restituer les basses fréquences. Les membranes plus larges vont déplacer plus d'air, et un bass-reflex à l'arrière permet la création de basses retentissantes. Toutefois, des rapports initiaux confirment toujours "une préférence pour les aigus".

    • Des vis cruciformes fixent la glissière pour Joy-Con de chaque côté de la console.

    • Chaque glissière dispose d'un set de contacts à broche qui s'imbriquent avec les contacts des Joy-Con pour faire passer le courant, ainsi que de touches vers la carte mère via une nappe.

    Do you know similar speakers which can be used as replacement?

    Jube - Réponse

    Im not sure, but they look the same as the New 3ds ones

    tbolado -

    I was able to successfully replace mine with a New 3DS speaker

    Mptp - Réponse

    My left speaker just blew!! how does the 3DS speaker hold up ?

    Scott Jones - Réponse

  14. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    iOpener
    $12.99
    J'achète
    • Contrairement à beaucoup d'appareils modernes avec un écran tactile, le numériseur sur la Switch n'est pas fusionné avec l'écran, vous pouvez donc remplacer les deux composants indépendamment. Merci, Nintendo, d'avoir gardé la réparabilité à l'esprit !

    • Le numériseur est attaché grâce à une bande adhésive double-face qui fait tout le tour du périmètre de l'écran. Avec un peu de chaleur et en fouillant, nous réussissons à retirer le numériseur.

    • Mais dans notre enthousiasme, notre démonteur hâtif a déchiré la nappe de données du numériseur. Soyez prévenus, ce livre s'ouvre longitudinalement.

    Is the digitizer glass or plastic??

    Paul Reynolds - Réponse

    ^^ I'd like to know this as well.

    Lucas Luxton - Réponse

    It feels like and flexes like plastic.

    dave - Réponse

    It is plastic.

    Evan Noronha - Réponse

    It's perma-fused to the plastic, I take it? If so I'm rather disappointed. I'm not fond of screen protectors and would much rather someone put out a replacement instead.

    Erin Lewis - Réponse

    So the Screen is technically replaceable? Would it be possible to put a new screen on?

    Mitchell Laurence - Réponse

    It technically can but be aware the process is quite extensive and technical so in other words if you need a replacement screen, either pay a professional, not some dude off CL who says he can to do it or watch a lot of how-to videos and USE the right tools. I work at a business that fixes cellphones professionally so believe me when I say it can be done but very, very meticulous and technical.

    Josh McCard -

  15. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Et la cerise sur le gâteau ? L'écran LCD s'enlève facilement !

    • L'augmentation de la portabilité d'un appareil, augmente en général aussi la possibilité de le laisser tomber. Bravo, Nintendo, pour rendre un appareil plus facilement cassable également plus réparable.

    • Avec ça la console est terminé - mais nous n'avons pas encore fini.

    • Alors, où est-ce nous avons mis ces manettes ...

    hello , is it IPS or TN or VA LCD ?

    ttt ttt - Réponse

    IPS by Japan Display Inc. But what is the LCD model #?

    Girl Usocrzy - Réponse

    hello there i was wondering what type of connecter does screen have

    sir spudly - Réponse

  16. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 16, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 16, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 16, image 3 de 3
    • Nintendo fournit un codage de couleur pour nous rappeler que ces Joy-Con, en apparence semblables, abritent en fait du hardware différent.

    • Un contenu différent égale un numéro de modèle différent: La manette bleu neon porte l'inscription HAC-015, la manette rouge neon HAC-016.

    • Le néon78263 n'est pas votre truc? Si vous êtes bon à coller des autocollants, vous pouvez masquer ses vraies couleurs78263 avec un revêtement.

    • Les Joy-Con ne sont pas étanches, et Nintendo recommande78263 même de ne pas les utiliser près de votre aquarium.78263

    • ... ou d'un ordinateur portable, d'une imprimante sans fil, des enceintes sans fil, d'une smart watch, d'un téléphone sans fil - en gros, vaut mieux les utiliser dans une cave.

    Any idea on the type of plastic for the Joy-Con shells? ABS, nylon, something else (if so, what)?

    Jonathan Stanley - Réponse

    If you didn't already notice- the step 17 photos of the inside of the shells seem to indicate it's polycarbonate + ABS

    David Eltzroth -

    I sort of wish I'd been able to get the model that includes the red/blue controllers LOL

    wolfpup3 - Réponse

    I broke my Joy Con a while back and the 2L button is missing. Would you happen to know where I can get a replacement part for that?

    Clinton Wong - Réponse

    3D printer: www.thingiverse.com Search “Nintendo Switch Joycon”

    Army Turtle -

  17. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 17, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 17, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 17, image 3 de 3
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Spudger
    $2.99
    J'achète
    • Nous ne sommes pas des généticiens, mais malgré cela, nous sortons le scalpel spudger pour comparer ces jumeaux fraternels.

    • Chaque manette dispose d'une batterie lithium-io de 1,9 Wh, de Bluetooth, d'un accéléromètre/gyroscope, et d'un moteur haptique "HD Rumble".

    • Le remplacement de la batterie n'est certainement pas aussi simple que dans les télécommandes Wii d'origine, mais c'est faisable.

    • Nintendo prétend que les manettes Joy-Con disposent d'une autonomie d'environ 20 heures de jeu, mais il faut en tout 3,5 heures pour les recharger.

    • Si ça ne suffit pas, le support de charge Joy-Con rajoute un boost de batterie, ainsi qu'une prise en main plus ergonomique.

    Might want to clarify that the Joy-Con charging grip does not have a battery so there is no boost from the grip itself. You have to plug the grip into a power source (through USB) to get the joy-cons to charge at all when they are attached to the charging grip. Otherwise the grip acts exactly like the included non-charging grip.

    Brice Gilbert - Réponse

    Oh goody...more sealed proprietary batteries. LAME.

    wolfpup3 - Réponse

    The right joycon has a little black card slotted next to the battery. Anyone know what that is?

    Phrik Graves - Réponse

    • Nous avions entendu des rumeurs concernant des problèmes de durabilité du mécanisme de glissière, regardons ça de plus près.

    • La glissière elle-même, située sur le bord de la console Switch, est en métal et semble être assez solide.

    • Son pendant sur le côté Joy-Con est en plastique, ce qui est (probablement) exactement ce que l'on veut - tout défaut se trouvera vraisemblablement dans la manette détachable, qui devrait être moins chère à réparer ou à remplacer si nécessaire.

    This piece of plastic in joy-con can be exchanged for example metal? It should be better than plastic

    Robert - Réponse

    Where would I find the metal replacement ?

    Chris Cruz - Réponse

    For replacement, search google for Alloy Buckle Lock

    Niklas Hansen - Réponse

  18. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 19, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 19, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 19, image 3 de 3
    • Avec les coques enlevées, nous pouvons examiner de plus près ce qui se trouve à l'intérieur. Nous vous proposons Rouge vs Bleu.

    • Nous ne sommes pas superficiels - ce qui est important, c'est ce qu'il y a à l'intérieur. La Joy-Con rouge mène le jeu avec du hardware IR et une antenne NFC.

    • Le hardware IR est composé d'une caméra IR et quatre LED IR. Nintendo maintient que la caméra peut détecter des formes de main différentes, la distance, et, dans le futur, sera également capable d'un enregistrement video. En ce qui concerne les LED, nous parions qu'elles jettent leur lumière infrarouge sur des objets à proximité pour faciliter leur identification.

    • Mais savez-vous ce dont elles disposent toutes les deux ? Deux vis cruciformes pour fixer le joystick, et deux vis cruciformes pour la carte. Voilà.

    • Bleu, tu es là pour nous, les réparateurs, en cas de besoin.

    • En bas de chaque manette se trouve un moteur HD Rumble costaud pesant 5,5 grammes.

    I had to send my Left Joy-Con for a repair on day one because the L button was acting erratically. I first noticed it when I tried to write my credit card number. I had made a mistake and tried to go back using tbe L button. When I pressed the button, my text cursor moved all the way to the left even though the button was in normal position (seemingly unpressed).

    I wonder what caused this. Fun fact: Pressing the plastic piece between ZL and L button activated the sensor for L button.

    Does the iFixit team has any idea what caused my problem? Thanks!

    Philippe Morin - Réponse

    Any component info on the Joystick? Manufacturer ROM etc?

    Eamonn Clerkin - Réponse

    the left Joy-Con Joystick and the right Joy-Con Joystick are the same?

    4646dudu - Réponse

    does some one know what could be the problem, after replacing the joy stick everythink works fine except that the switch doesn’t detect the joy con attached to it but if i conect it to it, it stills charge the joy con

    Rodrigo Barba - Réponse

    Left joy-con zif connector has lifted from the motherboard everything is intact and connected to the connection ribbon how do you reattach the actual white piece to the motherboard???

    Zeshi - Réponse

  19. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 20, image 1 de 2 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 20, image 2 de 2
    • Nous exposons les cartes des manettes à la recherche de plus de silicium. Voici la carte de la manette rouge, riche en composants, dans toute sa gloire (la carte de la manette bleu a une forme légèrement différente, mais dispose de la plupart des mêmes composants) :

    • Émetteur-récepteur Bluetooth 4.1/2.4 GHz BCM20734 Broadcom

    • Contrôleur NFC ST21NFCB STMicroelectronics

    • Flash 4 Mb CMOS Macronix International MX25U4033E

    • Microcontrôleur STMicroelectronics STM32P411 32 bits

    • Accéléromètre/gyroscope 3 axes LSM6DS3H STMicroelectronics (probablement)

    • Chargeur de batterie linéaire avec gestion du chemin d'alimentation BQ24072 Texas Instruments

    • Amplificateur audio BD27400GUL Rohm

    The chip in the center of the board is probably a Bosch BMI160 (6-DOF Inertial sensor)

    Luko - Réponse

    Would love to see photos of both controller PCBs. Only one side is shown.

    Jeff Keyzer - Réponse

    I would also like to have both joy-con because I had to send the Left one for a repair because I had troubles with the L button.

    Philippe Morin - Réponse

    Is that white quad next to home button LED?

    Damian Wielk - Réponse

    Does anyone know whether the joycons use this chip in Classic/EDR mode, or in Smart/LE mode?

    fury - Réponse

    How can I buy this whole piece?

    Fantasia Ford - Réponse

    What is the chip between Red & Orange?

    INKI CHAE - Réponse

  20. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 21, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 21, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 21, image 3 de 3
    • Mise à jour du démontage : Juste pour nous assurer de recevoir notre dose d'ingrédients secrets, nous retirons le couvercle du moteur à retour haptique, un actionneur linéaire résonant (LRA) qui fait fonctionner le HD Rumble de la Switch.

    • Ces LRA ressemblent beaucoup à ceux que nous avons retirés des manettes Oculus Touch, du HTC Vive, et du Steam Controller.

    • Nous avons mis une seconde pour ouvrir le moteur haptique du Oculus Touch, et l'intérieur semble être identique à celui-ci.

    • L'intérieur de ce moteur à vibrations semble être plutôt standard. C'est essentiellement une bobine acoustique installée dans un ensemble de masse mobile, encadrée par deux aimants puissants.

    • Par contre, il est intéressant de constater que ce LRA semble vibrer le long de son axe court, alors que la plupart des moteurs à retour haptique que nous avons vus vibrent le long de leur axe long.

    What, no slow mo video?

    kyletallent - Réponse

    If it is like this haptic module, it appears to be able to oscillate in 2 axes: http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Act...

    Aziz Nawrozie - Réponse

    pretty sure it is the Alps dual axis haptic. It only needs two wires because the magnets are polarized diagonally.

    Max Chen - Réponse

    it occilates in two directions at different frequencies. Only needs two wires because the magnets are magnetized diagonally (half the face is North and half is South.)

    Max Chen - Réponse

  21. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 22, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 22, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 22, image 3 de 3
    • Avant de forcer l'entrée dans la maison de la Switch, nous avons demandé à nos amis de Créative Electron de faire un peu de reco. Nous ne voulions pas tomber dans un traquenard.

    • Soyons honnêtes : Cette radiographie est plus cool que nos trouvailles. En fait, la station d'accueil consiste en une carte dans une boîte avec quelques ports, y compris :

    • Deux ports USB 2.0

    • Un port adaptateur AC

    • Un port HDMI

    • Un port USB 3.0

    • D'après Nintendo, le port USB arrière n'aura qu'un support USB 2.0 lors de la sortie. Une mise à jour future apportera un support USB 3.0.

    thanks for info on this.

    does this dock board have power regulator/protection/fuse/whateveryoumaycallit that protects the switch in case the official charger goes haywire?

    MyPerk Tv - Réponse

    How much ampere are the USB ports ??

    iltenerone - Réponse

    What is the FFC connected to?

    Adam Cove - Réponse

  22. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 23, image 1 de 2 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 23, image 2 de 2
    • Les puces côté station d'accueil :

    • Flash 512 Kb CMOS Macronix International MX25L512E

    • Flash 2 Mb CMOS Macronix International MX25V2006E

    • Convertisseur Mobility DisplayPort (MyDP) vers HDMI Megachips STDP2550

    • Contrôleur d'alimentation BM92T17 USB-C Rohm

    • Microcontrôleur 32 bits STM32P048 STMicroelectronics

    • Contrôleur hub USB 3.0 VL210 VIA Labs

    • Contrôleur d'alimentation BM92T55 USB-C Rohm

    Got some issues with the coloring of your little rectangles. M92T55 is pink on the photo, and the M92T17 is dark blue.

    LDM - Réponse

    What's the dimension of the motherboard?

    Zero - Réponse

    I would love it if someone could provide a drawing of the motherboard with dimensions in inches. For 3d printing purposes.

    Rcmaniac Ten -

    can get a name/model of the ribbon cable from the board that finishes as usb-c?

    rusenikolovski - Réponse

    I need the same information. Have you figured it out yet?

    The Real JaeLinx -

    I need another ribbon cable. What type would be a good replacement

    The Real JaeLinx - Réponse

    M92T17 is an ROHM chip.

    Blue - Réponse

    What’s the part on the dock pcb that holds the ribbon cable (zif connector )

    Hooligan - 69 - Réponse

    I’ve got no HDMI out from my dock to my TV. There’s no visible damage anywhere so I’m thinking of putting a new HDMI port onto it. Any other suggestions before I do that? I’ve done all the regular troubleshooting.

    modtang - Réponse

  23. Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 24, image 1 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 24, image 2 de 3 Démontage de la Nintendo Switch: étape 24, image 3 de 3
    • Il est temps de vous présenter quelques-unes de nos meilleures vues éclatées ! Voici les entrailles de la Nintendo Switch délicatement exposées.

    • Merci encore à nos héros chez Creative Electron avec leur super vision !

    • Maintenant nous allons remonter ce truc le plus vite possible - c'est l'heure de jouer.

  24. Dernières pensées
    • A part le numériseur, les composants sont fixés grâce à des vis et non de l'adhésif.
    • La plupart des composants, y compris les sticks analogiques, le lecteur de cartouche de jeu, et la prise casque, sont modulaires et peuvent être remplacés.
    • Les batteries, bien que collées dans leurs emplacements, sont modulaires et peuvent être remplacées par l'utilisateur final.
    • Le numériseur et l'écran ne sont pas fusionnés, réduisant ainsi les frais de réparation tout en augmentant la complexité.
    • Des vis tri-point propriétaires empêchent les utilisateurs d'ouvrir la Switch.
    • Le remplacement d'un écran ou d'un numériseur nécessite le retrait d'un adhésif à forte adhérence à l'aide de chaleur et d'outils.
    Indice de réparabilité
    8
    Indice de réparabilité de 8 sur 10
    (10 étant le plus facile à réparer)

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Evan Noronha

Membre depuis le 02/05/15

223 412 Réputation

168 tutoriels rédigés

135 commentaires

So there's 4GB RAM?

Christopher Meyer - Réponse

Yes it has 4GB of RAM in the form of 2x 16Gb (or 2 gigabyte each) Samsung LPDDR4 RAM chips.

acaaew -

Does the HD Rumble operate the same way Apple's Taptic Engine works?

Dimitri Bouniol - Réponse

Probably not. The Taptic Engine is a linear oscillator, but the Switch probably uses a 3-D oscillator: That means the weight can move freely in all three directions.

Ethan Zuo -

Single pair of wires means single axis of movement.

Lemming -

two wires true, but magnets are magnetized diagonally and the W shape of the spring arms gives different spring rate in X and Y. Powered, the coil moved diagonally to the corner. Once let go, it occilates in different frequencies in X and Y.

Max Chen -

surprised to learn there's 4GB of RAM

Kai - Réponse

Well it's double the RAM in the Wii U. Four times as much if you count the 1 GB used by the Wii U OS when not playing games.

Ethan Zuo -

But also let's not compare Apples and Oranges, ARM architecture needs much less RAM than x86 to perform well, you can't simply compare ARM, PowerPC and x86 with 4GB of RAM and think they will all have the same performance.

theSUBVERSIVE -

<<<But also let's not compare Apples and Oranges, ARM architecture needs much less RAM than x86 to perform well>>>

No it doesn't. That's just...not correct at all.

And yeah, Switch has 2x the RAM as Wii U, though who knows how much will be accessible by games. Obviously all consoles reserve some RAM, but for some reason the Wii U reserved half of it (though that still left more than 2x the RAM versus 360 and PS3, which is maybe why they didn't care that they were reserving so much).

wolfpup3 -

Does the micro sd slot support UHS II (ie. has support for two rows of pins inside)? No one seems to care about this info in the teardowns lol

rosta.pospisil - Réponse

I care a lot myself too. I would even like to know what spec version of the SD Association it supports. Does it only comply to version 3.01 (UHS-1) or could it comply to the new 5.1 version or even 6.0?

Philippe Morin -

Thank god i'm not the only one that cares about this. The difference between UHS-I and II could mean half of game load times from the microSD.

Ashler -

I too would like to know this. [and on all devices.]

Josh -

Looking at the photos, It does not have the extra pins, it only has 8 legs, common for a plain SD card reader.

Toby Webb -

Game load times always seem to be CPU bottlenecked on consoles anyway.

alexatkin -

Please deconstruct the rumble motor

Vince - Réponse

Possibly the most interesting part of the design.

fastm3driver -

Do we know the thermal envelope of the cpu/gpu? I'm wondering if it's on the verge of needing a fan. If so, a die shrink version might not need the fan anymore freeing up a lot of space for a bigger battery.

fastm3driver -

Added! Check out step 21.

Evan Noronha -

I agree with Vince, I'd love to see what's inside that rumble pack. I'm betting on the same thing apple has with their taptic, but with a slightly heavier weight.

Ryan Mitchell - Réponse

I really want to know what's inside the hd rumble motor! Sounds more complex than Apple's one...

Mr. Doge - Réponse

Modular eMMC? I smell bigger storage variant from Nintendo.. Anytime Soon..

Yosia Sulistian - Réponse

Makes me wonder if we could clone the drive onto a larger drive.

vegetaban -

Like the wiiU they know it's kinda a small amount but most people won't care at launch. I bet they even double it by xmas. Or make a more expensive version with the charging dock, 64 memory, and a Zelda or mario included. It will seem like a deal!

fastm3driver -

Guys any info on the antenna in the main body of the console or joycons for the broadcom chips? I cant see much of a BT antenna in the joycons at all from the pics. Unless theyre PCB etched?

Patrick Frost - Réponse

The BT antenna in the blue joycon is pcb etched, just on the outside of the joystick. I don’t see it on the red joycon pcb at all, though.

sigoshi -

Can we get an x-ray of the HD rumble motor? Would be interesting to see how it works and whether it's a similar mechanism to the Taptic Engine.

Jason - Réponse

Jason, I'm assuming that you are wanting a video of the LRA in action as a static X-ray of the device would look pretty much like what the teardown looks like only with less color. There's an awful lot of metal there and it's just going to look like a dark block.

Actually, if you look at the X-ray of the system with attached controllers, you can easily make out the dark blocks that are the LRAs.

ritslvids -

Would it be theoretically possible to deliver HDMI over USB-C when you are not docked? I'm thinking when you visit a friend and you don't want to bring the dock etc. to play on a big screen.

Marc Schiller - Réponse

You can disassemble the dock and bring the internal board along

Cuong Phan -

Let the time work. I think there will be cables to get the HDMI out of the USB C. In the past, for every console there was a lot of non Nintendo accessories from third-party. Why should it be other this time?

TheLOD2010 -

There are many YouTube vids trying out different USB-C 2 HDMI docs, but AFAIK there is noone which works until now.

I tested it myself with the Microsoft Display Dock for its latest Lumias, but it did not work. Hopefully there will be a solution soon as I use my switch docked at two different locations and do not want to pack the dock everytime.

alex.saternus -

Megachips STDP2550 Mobility DisplayPort (MyDP) to HDMI Converter, part of the dock. You need a MyDP to HDMI converter, as the Switch puts out DP and not HDMI.

Xander Zoolander -

Theres no Nintendo word write on the board why this is not a Nintendo console?

Ricardo CB Pereira - Réponse

This is a Nintendo Console.

Reid Fleishman -

Does anyone know what the voltage range of the AC adapter is? Is it 100-240 V AC considering the Switch is now a region free console?

Sagat - Réponse

It's USB-C on the console and the dock. Any USB-C charger should provide a charge - so if you had an international charger that supports USB-C you should be good. One of the photos shows 15V / 2.6A input on the dock and the same on the tablet itself.

The x-ray they show at the top shows the US-style prongs on the charger and those are sold supporting US voltage only with a built-in USB-C cable (i.e. the cable can't be unplugged and used on a different adapter)

Jimmy -

The charger that came with my US Switch is rated 100-240. Finally I can throw my transformer away.

Tim Hurley -

Region free powersupply's are very common these days. They are cheap. Under 75W they are more cheaper, because in the EU you will need PFC over 75W. Active PFC is expensive, so a non region free supply will be get more benefit to the manufacturer @75W+.

So the charger of the Switch and every Phone are under 75W and can be build simply with an PSU driver chip and only a few more components. For every Voltage.

TheLOD2010 -

Although it is true that 100-240V power supplies are very common, previous Nintendo portables have been something of an outlier in this regard. The charger with my 3DSXL was 120 only, and that was 2012, years after 100-240 was standard elsewhere.

Tim Hurley -

I wonder if the Bluetooth transceiver different in both joy con, as there are connection problems in the left one but not in the right one.

PKMGO Ajimu - Réponse

no cartridges teardown

yenmax - Réponse

Well it would be pretty boring. It's just a 16 GB storage chip on a fiberglass board with gold-plated contacts.

Ethan Zuo -

Wow, 16GB cartridges? That's pretty awesome! I loved back in the day when Nintendo Power would list cartridge sizes, just because I'm curious about stuff like that...wish I knew how big a given 3DS/DS/Vita game I'm playing was.

wolfpup3 -

Lick the cartridge!

Ethan Zuo - Réponse

Please!!!!!!!

Ethan Zuo -

There's definitely 4GB of RAM inside of the Switch...two 2GB chips of LPDDR4.

Brent Murphree - Réponse

Max bandwidth of the 3.0 port for the console? Could be very telling when/if Nintendo launches a dock with an upgraded GPU in it that could (possibly) run in SLI with the SoC GPU.

Shankovich - Réponse

It would had been better if it was USB type-C 3.1 with Thunderbolt 3.0 for that purpose. Thunderbolt 3.0 is 8x faster than USB 3.0 and to act like a SLI eGPU, 5Gbps isn't enough for a considerable boost, if it was Thunderbolt 3.0 it would be much more future proof. Since it's just USB 3.0, I'm not sure if Nintendo is really thinking about an eGPU, which is a pity. But I hope someone with more knowledge could say what could Nintendo actually achieve with USB 3.0 regarding an extra graphics boost, I wonder if that would be enough for 4K in the future, but it doens't look like it.

theSUBVERSIVE -

Even TB 3 ends in PCIe 3.0 4x. This is to slow fore 4K gaming too. The actual 4K Graphics needs PCIe 3.0 8x as minimum to run with more than 24 fps.

It is no eGPU in existence that can bring a low power system 4K gaming. For the Switch die CPU will be the next limiting part.

TheLOD2010 -

You'll never get any form of functional dual GPU solution through USB - both bandwidth and latency are far too bad for that to be even remotely functional. Not going to happen.

And for those of you talking about Thunderbolt 3: TB3 is an Intel-developed tech. There's zero evidence of it even being considered for implementation outside of X86 systems. Heck, it doesn't even work on AMD-based systems, and those are X86! TB3 on ARM will never happen.

Trond Aasland -

Thunderbolt is an Intel proprietary external PCIe port. Nvidia would need to develop their own proprietary external PCIe solution.

The Switch would also need extra hardware for this, mainly a couple more ICs.

But it could work since USB type C allows an extra set of data lanes to be used at a non-USB port, this is how the Switch outputs a MyDP signal (which the dock has a MyDP-HDMI converter). But currently, the Switch doesn't have supporting hardware for an external/hybrid gpu setup.

Xander Zoolander -

I don't know what its wrong with the guys befor me, but it's definitly USB 3.1 Standart with an USB-C Port.

USB-C is a standart for the port/plug, and can be provided with USB 2.0 to 3.1.

Only USB 3.1 Standart provides the feature of sending video signals over the cable, and the technical Standart USB 3.1 must be shipped with an C-Port/plug.

That make TB3 only 4 times faster, in cost of an proprietary plug and protocol.

Nintendo isn't so uneconomy and so the choice was USB, cause everybody got USB-devices.

Gordon Kracht -

Sounds like a really bad idea to be honest.

Karl Fahrman -

How do the joycons charge from the console, where are the connectors for power transfer?

Tony - Réponse

Step 17 picture 3 -> metal contacts with flatflex cable tu the joycon pcb.

TheLOD2010 -

Also step 13, third picture, is the Switch's side of it. The contacts are on the underside of the rail.

Xander Zoolander -

Is digitizer is made of glass or plastic?

Maciej Jerominek - Réponse

It is made of plastic.

Evan Noronha -

So the cooling setup goes SoC - thermal paste - copper shim - thermal paste - cold plate - thermal paste -back plate. Granted the cold plate and heatpipe is the main deal, not the backplate.

You could argue that's similar to a CPU integrated heat spreader, but those are more form fitting and sometimes soldered for better heat dissipation. Cooling setup seems like a not great design, especially as DF clocked the vent area at 52 degrees Celsius. From a mobile SoC.

tipoo - Réponse

It's actually;

SoC > thermal paste > the shield/cover around the SoC and nearby components > copper shim > thermal paste > pad >mounting bracket and copper pipe, with what looks to be a layer of material between the bracket and heatpipe; also can't tell if the bracket is brazed to the sides of the heat pipe, or if it's under the heat pipe > thermal paste > backplate.

Also keep in mind that the SoC has an internal heat spreader, with is either soldered or pasted to the chip itself. So there's even more interfaces.

The 'pad' on the heat pipe can be seen on Gamer Nexus' video here: https://youtu.be/obz5tE1mdV0?t=10m46s

I also wonder what effects that shield/cover on the SoC is going to have on the DRAM it covers when it heats up.

So there's 10+ parts on top of the silicon including the IHS and it's solder/paste, 9 if the mounting bracket is brazed to the sides of the heat pipe, 10 if the heat pipe is on top of the bracket. Keep in mind that a standard computer only has 4-5 layers on top of the silicon.

Xander Zoolander -

I think seeing the inside of a game cart would be interesting, see if the pinout is different from SD.

tipoo - Réponse

Thanks your well-detailed analysis it's possible to complete wikipedia semantic info about objects components and get this:

https://tools.wmflabs.org/reasonator/?&q... (look at "has part" section)

P.D.: more info https://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/WikiObje...

Qupro - Réponse

I'm guessing the screen cover is made of plastic and not glass?

guitrasher - Réponse

Yes, the screen cover is made from plastic.

Reid Fleishman -

What about the cartridges? Can you open one?

Philippe Morin - Réponse

hello ,

is the screen IPS or VA or TN ?

ttt ttt - Réponse

Came here to ask this as well. Display is TN or IPS?

Dirty Potter -

Definitely not TN, the viewing angles are great. But, idk if it's VA or IPS.

markjkuebel -

What are the screw dimensions? It would be nice to have a set of spare screws sitting around to replace them if they break/strip whilst opening the Switch in future.

Thomas Plummer - Réponse

Your teardown doesn't seem to include flavors of any of the components... Was this an oversight, or are you planning to update this information in the future?

erixtyminutes - Réponse

Could you guys nail down the die size for us?

tipoo - Réponse

Now let's hope that Nintendo will start replacing all the systems that shipped with dead pixels instead of telling us it's normal.

http://www.techspot.com/news/68401-ninte...

marcpgreen - Réponse

Nintendo Switch Dock Set (with a separate Switch Dock, AC adapter and HDMI cable) will cost $89.99. After seeing this video, Nintendo is really screwing over the consumer with a price like that.

marcpgreen - Réponse

No they're not, at least not versus what anyone else is charging. These types of adapters are expensive, and it's an active adapter.

Maybe they should be much cheaper, but Microsoft, Apple, etc. charge similar.

wolfpup3 -

Can you give a close up and any part number on the usb port on the switch. I would love to know if that is an off the shelf part that I could get from digikey if need be. It appears to be a midmount design that I am familiar with(Molex I think), but I cant get a clear shot of it from your pictures

Tyler Daughtry - Réponse

You can click on any of our photos and delete the .huge from the end of the URL to view it in full/original resolution (which is usually 30+ megapixels). Here's the shot of the USB port on the Switch Console motherboard. Hope it helps you find what you are looking for!

Jeff Suovanen -

Kinda want to try swapping thermal paste with some Arctic Silver or something to see if it improves dissipation at all. Not sure that would aid performance but might be worth a go. Not really sure how I'd measure any impact though... Can't exactly monitor the Chip temp.

Russell Applin - Réponse

Or perhaps with Coolaboratory liquid ultra. Check it out! It smokes Arctic Silver in the tests.

Haven Games -

I was wondering if it was possible to take apart the front of the dock and get rid of the rail that could scratch the screen. Seems like it should still be functional after completely removing it.

tophoos - Réponse

Then you risk the Switch falling over as its vertical rather than at an angle. So you get a scratched screen AND potentially destroy the USB-C connector, the most difficult part to replace.

alexatkin -

It looks like different Switches use different eMMC chips.

Yours had a Toshiba THGBMHG8C2LBAIL.

Gamer Nexus' Switch had a Samsung KLMBG2JENB-B041; seen here https://youtu.be/obz5tE1mdV0?t=9m40s

Samsung's is .2mm thicker at 1mm thick.

I'd like to see someone do a swap with a larger sized chip.

Xander Zoolander - Réponse

Update: according to a forum, the devkit switch has a 64GB chip, and people have already done mods to read and write the chip outside of the switch.

The only problem that might arise is the Samsung chip has 2bit MLC (Toshiba doesn't give that spec) on their 32GB chip in the Gamers Nexus' Switch, their largest 2bit MLC chip is 128GB, they offer a 256GB chip but that has a 3bit MLC.

There's hope for storage mods, and there's hopes for a larger storage switch.

Xander Zoolander -

Hi, the stick on Joy-Con are analog or not ? When i tried to use in x360ce it look like a d-pad ?

blaplace - Réponse

What model and screen type is the LCD? Why bother pulling it without giving us the part number or identifying marks?

Bitvar - Réponse

Can anyone find out what size the player number LEDs are that are on the joycons?

Kyle Ferguson - Réponse

As always, a great tear down iFixit! Thanks for keeping the world in the know!

Wagon Fixin - Réponse

Are the analogue sticks interchangeable? Would a stick in a spare right joycon work in a left joycon that needs a replacement stick?

Benjamin - Réponse

Was the left Joy-Con's 4-button mechanism (circuit board & chassis) the same as the right Joy-Con's? I'm planning on modding a Joy-Con with a replacement (Sega Saturn) D-Pad, so I'd love to see more detail about the D buttons, for example, popping off the rubber buttons on the Joy-Con board and see what's underneath (something you could potentially solder to?). Thanks.

Haven Games - Réponse

So how can I tell I will be buying a switch with the fix version of controllers that no longer loses connectivity?

Marlon Alucard - Réponse

Any similar speakers for replacement?

Jube - Réponse

Really need to find a replacement speaker as well. My right speaker started popping then now no sound comes out unless i put pressure on the membrane. Basically its broken now.

Mptp -

Update: My right speaker started popping and then just stopped working. I sucessfully replaced it with a New 3DS speaker

Mptp -

Is there anywhere I might be able to buy replacement parts for the switch?

Nathan Alan hansen - Réponse

suupppppppppp

diego - Réponse

suppppppppppppp

diego -

The ZL button of my left joy-con is not responding. Does anybody knows if this is something that can be fix? Or i gonna need a replacement?

marcoscrispim - Réponse

What do you use for doing X-Rays ?

Aditya Agarwal - Réponse

My right joy-con can be used on console, but it can't be charging........Orz

I tried to change left joy-con's battery to right, but either....

Have any idea can fix it?

pmanyeh - Réponse

Is there a place to order replacement parts? My Joystick is jacked up and needs replaced.

Brian Johnson - Réponse

+1

I'm just looking for the L + XL buttons ribbon cable. Where can we get replacement parts?

Rockus Ultimus - Réponse

So where excactly do you find a mate on the Joy-Con side plastic?

Dexter - Réponse

Very Cool! I want to see the graphics card next time!

Ultimate Gamer - Réponse

When does the replacement parts comes out?

xFELYNEx xFx - Réponse

Hey there, I've managed to have something jam the USB-C port and it's mushed the end of the black pin connector. How feasible is it to bring the system to a local repair shop and have them replace the port for me? Am I out of luck and will have to send it in to Nintendo for repairs?

carlos.chai - Réponse

If I tore a ribbon cable in a joy on, any ideas on where to source a replacement?

Clark Sessions - Réponse

Was it a ribbon from inside your JoyCon?

zacharywd -

Patrick Frost and John Horne were asking question about the antenna or antennas. SamitSakar wrote an article on the users complaining about the weakness of WIFI. If the wiring is incorrect which Patrick Frost alluded to then how does it get resolved. Is there only one antenna or more. For example iphone has 9 antenna. Slide 11, Researching the Broadcom/Cypress BCM4356 features “Single-stream and dual-stream IEEE 802.11ac solution with data rates up to 433.3 and 866.7 Mb/s” Hence it’s not the chip but the antenna configuration. Perhaps there should be more. Any input? All ears?

hebrwn - Réponse

Hello our son has inserted a Micro USB into the USB-C socket. Now the pins are bent and the Device cannot be loaded. Does anyone know where I can get a Nintendo USB 3.1 Type C jack to replace it or an alternative jack?

marijankruljac - Réponse

I’m looking for a replacement flatflex cable for the Left Joycon. It’s the cable that goes inside the switch. If anyone can help me locate one that would be awesome.

zacharywd - Réponse

Can anyone direct me to a place where I can find replacement MicroSD card boards?

Jake Wharton - Réponse

Can someone help me? On step 19 , there’s a flex cable coming out of the joycon where the LED is , mine is malfunctioning it doesn’t work properly , if I open the joycon and stretch the cable the led lights works normally , but when I fold it to close the joycon it stops working, I think the cable somehow is broken inside I dont know…but anyway , is there a place that I can buy only this part so I can replace it? I don’t even know the name of this cable ;(

floyd - Réponse

Any clues on the model of the IR camera? I’m interested to know how sensitive it is, the Labo shows some interesting stuff, but it makes me wonder if it’s got a high enough resolution to read QR codes made up of reflective material.

Richard Hodgson - Réponse

Does anybody know if I can replace the c-stick sensors? I dont know if im using the correct word here, but mines pretty much messed up, i have two sets of joycons and only right ones broke twice, and I might be able to fix them by exchanging it.

TehVilly - Réponse

Hey, this might be a silly question, but should I wear any safety equipment when taking apart the joy-Con? To protect the controller, not myself. Obviously disconnect the battery, but will static electricity do anything? Should I be aware of anything else? Thanks!

Isaac - Réponse

Hi I strip one of the screw of bad that even super glue did’t work. To remove the glue is use a drill (1mm) drill bit and hand turn to scrape the glue out. Anyother idea? Will epoxy work?

jonathan ambrose - Réponse

Where can I buy all of these parts featured in the video?

Matt Seibert - Réponse

How many Connector Pins are on/what kind of connector is on the Swich LCD Flex Cable

Alex Sparks - Réponse

What is screwdriver used to take off the screws on the bottom and on the joycon rail on the switch?

Branden D - Réponse

I wouldn’t knock it for the tri-wing screws. They use Philips plenty once you get in. they are meant to act as a deterrent to mildly curious children who can get their hands on a small Phillips a little too easily “speaking as a former kiddo that broke a toy or two in this way…”. i’d say good job Nintendo overall and would give a slightly higher repair-ability score. maybe an 8.5.

Alan Warrick - Réponse

my switch dont charging i have replace the chip M92T36 but nothing help

the switch dont starting

any Idea?

berlin.suratthani.imbiss - Réponse

I was wondering if the microswitch for the R button (not zr) was modular and if it required soldering to fix.

Peter P - Réponse

The upper shell (where the digitizer mounts) looks as if it can come off with about 8 more or so screws? I'm looking to replace this part due to cracking as well as replacing the digitizer and a few internal parts as well. Any tips?

kragithzedrok - Réponse

Beefy Battery? Yeah right

Jackson Peter Conway - Réponse

Could you provide instructions on how to open up the analog stick module without breaking it? Joystick drifting seems to be a recurrent problem with joycons and since they’re still pretty expensive, it would be a good plus to be able to repair or at least clean them at home.

Xnerdz - Réponse

Lacks sizes for the screws and generally leaves details out.

Zachary Hudson - Réponse

Hi Zachary, be sure you check the header at the top of this teardown! “This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo Switch, use our service manual.” We use teardowns as an entertaining, educational look inside a device not a step-by-step guide! Thanks for stopping by!

Sam Goldheart -

If the joycons started to always move forward and not let you jump in games what would need tobe fixed? just the buttons or like the whole board and for the stick wouldnt it just be the stick?

Miles Pridgeon - Réponse

Hey Miles! That sounds an awful lot like the dreaded Joy-Con drift that’s been plaguing switch owners lately. The good news is, if you head over to http://support.nintendo.com, they’ll probably be able to get them fixed up for free! If you don’t want to ship them out to Nintendo, we can sell you the joystick by itself. I’m working on the replacement guide right now, it should be ready next week. Swapping out the joystick yourself only takes about half an hour, and should fix the issues you’re having.

Taylor Dixon -

Howdy, just wanted to tell people be very very careful when removing the joycon battery clip. Those things are super cheap and flimsy. I broke one, even being gentle. After some different approaches and a digital microscope I still haven’t figured out a safe reliable way to repair one. If I ever do I’ll post it.

RebTech - Réponse

While switching out the left joy-con it was dropped the zif connector lifted from the motherboard completely intact still attached to the ribbon cable how do I reattach the connector to the motherboard?

Zeshi - Réponse

Thanks a lot for this guide !

maxim.gilot - Réponse

Danke für dieses kleine, aber ausführliche Tutorial

Robin Gründing - Réponse

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