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The Cuisinart I'm working on is the model DCC-3200. The model DCC-2600 is very similar except for the diameter of the hose, the clamps and the length of one of the hoses.
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This model has phillips screws. The DCC-2600 has torque head. Remove the 4 screws from the bottom.
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The DCC-3200 has one long hose and one short hose located deep in the "well" of the coffee maker. This one hose will be a challenge to remove because it's difficult to get needle nose pliers down in there. The DCC-2600 has two long hoses with more room down in the "well" to grasp the ears of the clamp.
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Notice that the hose that comes from the filler reservoir has a bulge in it. That is the check valve. We need to remove it and install it into the new hose. I cut the hose open and took note of the direction of the valve. The small end will face up. This allows the water to flow down into the heating element and prevents it from flowing back up
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The DCC-3200 has a one-piece check valve, the 2600 is two pieces. Don't lose that ball!!! The "IFIXIT" screwdriver handle is PERFECT for pushing the valve into the new hose. Double check the direction. I used some WD-40 to help the valve slide in better. We'll clean the coffee maker when we're done.
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The aluminum fittings need to be cleaned very well to allow the new hose to seal. Here you can see some of the old hose under the fitting. Get it ALL out.
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Loosen the heating element if needed to allow room to slide the new hoses on. The stubs on the coffee maker are made of plastic and slide on well. The aluminum stubs need a bit of WD-40. I replaced some of the "thermal paste" to help with heat transfer. You can see the thermal fuse. If your coffee maker will not turn on or heat replace fuse.
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I'm trying a new clear high temperature hose for this fix. The reddish hose last about 2 years with heavy use. You can see the check valve and hose clips. That bottom hose was a challenge but that was the one that was leaking. I find that the hose coming OUT of the heating element and going into the top of the coffee maker leaked most often.
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I did a web search for "coffee maker hose" and "high temperature hose". You can find this type of hose by the foot at the most noted web retailers. They come in several inside and outside diameters. This hose is made of silicone and will stretch a bit. You want it tight on the fittings. I'll update with the exact hose type later.
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Once you've replaced both hoses, all that's left is to re-attach the heating element and replace the bottom cover. I ran a solution of 50% water and 50% vinegar thru the coffee maker to clean out the WD-40 and any bits of hose that may have fallen off. I then follow up with clean water.
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It’s a good idea to do this repair in a place where you may have to leave it for a few days. The first time I did it, I had no idea what was leaking. Once I found out it was the hoses, I ordered several sizes in different lengths. It took a few days to get the hose.
It’s a good idea to do this repair in a place where you may have to leave it for a few days. The first time I did it, I had no idea what was leaking. Once I found out it was the hoses, I ordered several sizes in different lengths. It took a few days to get the hose.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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9 commentaires
High Temp Silicone Tubing - 3/8 in. seems to be a good fit for this repair. Remember, whatever hose you use make sure it is “high temp” AND “food grade”. The hose needs to fit TIGHT on the fittings. If you can slide it on and off with very little effort, it’s too loose!! Don’t count on the clamps to seal the tube to the fitting. Think of how difficult it is to get the old hose off. It’s on tight for good reason. There is very little to no pressure on these hoses but they need to be liquid tight. Make sure you push the hose onto the fitting as far as it will go. The more tubing that is in contact with the fitting, the better it will seal.
The DCC-3200 had a larger inside diameter hose then that of the DCC-2600.
I used “Food Grade Silicone Tube 3/8 inch Electrical Water Heat Resistant Hose for Wine Making ID 10mm OD 14mm” from Amazon and it was a perfect fit for my DCC-3200. 1 meter of tubing was $9.59 and I now am going to look for units in thrift stores to repair.
I also made two access ports in the rear of my unit to reach the hard to reach connections. To reach the short tube clamps I used a Dremel type grinder with a saw blade to cut a 1 1/2” x 1/2” hole which exposed the two clamps. The short tube came out in small pieces but with a small tape measure and the access port I determined that a replacement of 1 7/8” was exactly the right length.
The long tube was frozen to the connection from the tank, so I drilled a 1/2” hole adjacent to that connection and used a thin screwdriver to break the hose loose. I could have replaced the rectangular piece with J-B Weld but the holes are not visible when the maker is in use so, I left them in case I have to do this repair again
Thanks for the information on the hose size. I need to do this again. I'll cut the holes to make it easier to get to the clamps. Thanks again.
Great idea with the access holes. In the future I’ll use the “red” high temp hoses. The clear tubing sprung a leak after a few months. I MAY have pinched it while installing but either way it was a pain to remove from the heating element. I agree that the “Home Brewing” companies have a good selection of hose.
With these types of coffee makers, 80% of the time the thermal fuse is bad and 20% is leaking hose(s).
I received one of these in 2018 as a gift. The shorter of the two hoses split after one year of use, and the exact same problem happened two more years in a row with the replacement hose I used. The best matching hose I found is from goodmans.net and is tagged "Univen High Temp FDA Food Grade Red Silicone Tubing 8mm ID X 12mm OD Per Foot". That hose is even red. An alternative hose to use is one made for distilling. These hoses are usually clear.
Replacing the small hose was very frustrating, and I ended up removing much of the rear plastic shell to more easily access the top-end where the hose connects to the water tank. It is now 2022, and I'm finally retiring this coffee maker because while the electronics are in great shape, the plastic connector between the hose and the water tank has worn down to a nub and no longer provides a good seal. I baby-sat this issue for a few months due to seeing only minor leakage (a few drips while brewing), but it got much worse this month.
As of 10/20/2022 Univen High Temp Food Grade Red Silicone Tubing 8mm ID X 12mm OD is unavailable from Amazon.
I have a DCC-1200 & had to shorten the short hose (inverted length from the 3200) w/the check valve once already for a leak, but it started again. So I removed the hose & inspected. Not hard to get the hose from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DM4VPZR8?ref...), & decided to "operate" & remove the check valve this time. Bad news - check valve is cracking/getting brittle; but I thought no problem, plenty of those on Amazon - even if its a two-hose setup with a barbed hose in between.
Has anyone come a cross the kPa ("opening/cracked pressure") min to open the valve? Everything I am reading on industry standard for "Gravity Feed" is 0.5 kPa. Is this low enough to open the valve from the reservoir in these coffee makers or is it too low to effectively keep the water from going backwards? Specifically trying these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CY1Y6HXW?ref... b/c it specifically states "Hose barb check valve’s Opening pressure: 0.5 Kpa" - Thanks all...
I did buy a "BUNN" check valve. It has the barbs. I have not had a chance to use it yet.
