Introduction
Únete a nosotros para vivir el sueño del viajero en el tiempo: la visión profunda, lúcida, Orwellian de esperanza, miedo y nostalgia, que es 1984. Solo A tiempo para su 30 aniversario, pusimos manos a la obra en un original '84: la Macintosh 128K. Y, lo has adivinado, lo estamos derribando como si fuera el Muro de Berlín.
La explosión de hoy del pasado se presenta con una ayuda increíble de Cult of Mac y The Vintage Mac Museum. Cult of Mac nos hará notar que no se dañó ningún Macinti de época en la elaboración de esta guía. Nuestro 128K ya había pasado más allá del velo antes de su noble sacrificio.
Enciende los condensadores de flujo y encuentra nuestro Facebook, sigue nuestro oportuno Tweets y obten una dosis de nostalgia de nuestro filtro Instagram.
¿Quieres algunos fondos de pantalla dulces de Mac 128K? ¡Consigue algunos!
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Ce dont vous avez besoin
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La Mac original se vendió por $ 2,495, que es de $ 5,594.11 en dólares de hoy. Entonces, ¿qué obtuviste por toda esa moneda?
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Procesador Motorola 68000 de 8 MHz
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DRAM 128 KB
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Pantalla CRT en blanco y negro de 9 "que funciona a 512 x 342 (72 ppp)
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400 KB de almacenamiento total a través de una unidad de disquete de 3,5 pulgadas de un solo lado
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Ratón de un solo botón y teclado robusto
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Antes de abrir esta cápsula de tiempo (no, no estas cápsulas de tiempo), tomemos un momento para ver hasta dónde hemos llegado en tres décadas.
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Ah, y el iPhone original tenía una pantalla de 480 × 320 píxeles a 163 ppp.
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Mientras Apple trabaja para popularizar Thunderbolt, una interfaz IO de 20 Gb / s, reflexionemos sobre el puerto serial de alta velocidad, con velocidades deportivas que se miden en miles de bps, en lugar de miles de millones.
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Pero bueno, al menos el enchufe de CA es el mismo.
Not true -- the serial port was RS-422, supporting much faster speeds
You're typing: "The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog"
Hey, you forgot to include discharging the high voltage cap!
What? No case cracker or CRT discharge tool? Those were essential tools for cracking open a classic Mac back in the day. Especially the discharge tool, used to prevent you from finding out why they call the black box at the end of the anode lead to the CRT a 'flyback' transformer.
That power supply board wasn't the same design as the first 128k Mac boards. the first design had a tin shield on the entire inside edge of the power supply board to keep the board from flexing. The first design flyback transformers were about 1/2 the size as the one in the picture. I have soldered probably 1000 Mac 128,512 and Plus power supply boards after replacing the flyback transformer and all of the caps as the ones Apple used were not long life rated and failed frequently in the early macs
The RS-422 chip had support for two ports, and would also drive RS-232 (which is unbalanced, whereas RS-422 is balanced). But Apple "stole" one of the control signals, making it a bit hard to work with standard modems of the day. You needed a hacked cable that worked around the issue (the missing one was RTS/CTS, I think).
And what was the missing signal used for? Why, that was where the mouse signal went - one port had the X-axis, the other one had the Y-axis. These were hardware interrupts so mouse tracking was very good.
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Treinta años de progreso producen algunos cambios impresionantes en los periféricos de entrada. Los teclados y ratones ahora son inalámbricos, más delgados y están compuestos principalmente de metal resistente, no amarillo.
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Y ahora tenemos teclas de flecha! En la forma típica de Apple, abandonaron las flechas de la Mac original para obligar a las personas a usar el mouse, unaccesorio nuevo y extraño en ese momento.
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Aquí hay una comparación lado a lado de un periférico de comando de voz con un solo botón y un dispositivo de entrada inalámbrico basado en magia, capaz de gestos.
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De acuerdo, técnicamente esa caja es un Apple Mouse II, número de modelo M0100. Utiliza un conector serie D-subminiatura (DE-9 para ser exactos). El huevo de Spacey es un Magic Mouse.
The yellow is because of UV rays reacting with bromide-based flame retardants added to the plastic. Until 87, Macs and peripherals were a putty color.
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Ahora que es un número de modelo: Macintosh Modelo M0001. (Apple incorporó solo un poco de espacio para futuros modelos).
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Estas primeras etiquetas son noticias tristes: incluso en los días más jóvenes y salvajes de Apple, no querían que la gente atendiera sus propios dispositivos.
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Esa etiqueta de la FCC significa negocio: si vas a jugar con tu Mac, corres el riesgo de interferencias de radio locales. (Suponemos que Pandora no era una alternativa viable en 1984.)
Made in USA, now those were the days!
During POST it would sit there with a totally gray screen.....
But the mouse cursor still worked beautifully.
No driver...no OS loaded...the mouse just worked.
I just bought one with the same problem. I intend to come back and tell you how I fixed it.
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No hace ninguna diferencia en nuestro kit de herramientas Pro Tech cuando se fabricó esta Mac, ya que contiene todas las herramientas que necesita para las reparaciones de ayer, hoy y mañana.
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Nuestra extensión flexible adquiere los tornillos T15 profundamente empotrados en la caja.
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Fiel a la forma, Apple escondió un tornillo; Esta vez, está debajo de la puerta de la batería del reloj. No hay problema para nosotros, está fuera y estamos metiéndonos en la historia.
By the time the Mac Plus came out with user-replaceable SIMMs, vendors like TechWorks were bundling the a cheap Torx T15 wrench with your RAM. Also, anybody remember Larry Pina's Macintosh Repair & Upgrade Secrets? Man, I had to resolder plenty of cold solder joints on analog boards. Such a great feeling getting those machines running again.
A couple of things I remember: If you went to Home Depot, you could find a clamp with a thin plate ends that would fit in the groove around the back case, and all you had to do was squeeze the clamp (i.e. open the clamp) and glide it around the groove until the case popped open. Much easier than trying to use a spudger (or, like many of us, marring the case with a screwdriver). On the analog board, the 4 pin molex plug was the frequent overheating spot. It drove the high voltage into the CRT and the heat would melt the solder and subsequent cooling would cause a cold solder joint, which meant your video would go in and out, and whacking it on the side sometimes restored it.
One point to remember when disassembling a compact Mac: If you've installed the "Reset/programmer's buttons" over the vents at the bottom side back corner, you should pop them out before removing the case back. Otherwise, they'd tend to snag on the motherboard back plate. The buttons provided a way to reset the Mac without having to turn it off. There was also a NMI (non-maskable interrupt) button that could be useful for programmers (like a hardware ctrl-C to break into a hung program).
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Entregamos y abrimos la bóveda; Sólo estamos un poco decepcionados por la falta deefectos cool de sonido neumáticos .
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La máquina entera se desliza fuera de la caja posterior, revelando la fuente de alimentación, la pantalla CRT, la unidad de disquete de 3,5 pulgadas y, escondida debajo de todo, la placa lógica.
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Moldeadas en el interior de la carcasa de plástico posterior hay runas de tecnología que superan los autógrafos de Steven Jobs, Woz, Bill Atkinson, Andy Hertzfeld, Bruce Horn, Jef Raskin y el resto del equipo histórico.
We included an upholstered desk chair in our teardown/upgrade tools for classic Macs: at least the first time you cracked the case of one. Take out the screws, hold the Mac screen down over the chair, and shake. You could also buy a special Mac cracking tool that looked like a cross between a pair of pliers and a door hinge.
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Ahora que estamos en terreno de servicio autorizado solo para personal, encontramos algunos potenciómetros de calibración para ajustar la pantalla.
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Todo el plomo (Pb) en el vidrio CRT es un poco más digno de broma, pero todavía no es muy divertido.
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Presente, conozca su pasado, cara a cara. Y si ambos están aquí en 30 años, tal vez se encuentren con el futuro.
Be very careful when taking the case off (and in every step) not to touch the back point of the CRT tube. Many techs have cracked this (you’ll hear the telltale, sad hiss of air escaping if you do).
(Note—I am not a domain admin—the profile is for another website)
I have shocked the crap out of myself by trying to adjust these pots with a metal wrench. Do not do this. Find something plastic.
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Entre el CRT y los condensadores, desconectar esta fuente de alimentación es como desarmar una bomba.
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Apple hizo todo lo posible para mantener a los usuarios promedio fuera de la Macintosh, usando tornillos Torx en el exterior. Pero una vez que estás dentro, es una mezcla divertida de tipos de tornillos, incluidos Phillips y de cabeza plana.
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Es hora de sacar nuestro rollo favorito de controladores de manija fija, el juego de destornilladores Pro Tech.
Hey!!! You have to discharge the CRT! 1,500 Volts!!!. This is a big deal!
Also, after discharging the CRT, you want to pull the CRT socket cable (That white disc) off of the CRT because if you bump it, you'll snap off a bit of glass on the end of the CRT and that will be all for that CRT.
I can attest to this. I snapped that bit of glass off a Mac Plus while the customer was waiting for a RAM upgradge. Doh.
Just to add to this, the CRT will carry a voltage charge for up to three days after being unplugged. We used to have a tool that plugged into an A/C wall socket grounding hole (the round third hole, not the slotted ones). At the other end of the wire of the was a handle with a long needle. You slid the needle unto the black suction cup on the CRT in the pic above—that would discharge the CRT. After that we took the suction cup off.
Most. techs in my old shop would talk about getting “thrown across the room” by forgetting this and touching the CRT tip. I was lucky never to have done this.
(Note—I am not a domain admin—the profile is for another website)
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Al ritmo de Misión Imposible, eliminamos la fuente de alimentación de forma rápida y segura. No hay escritores técnicos electrocutados ... hoy.
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Esta fuente de alimentación de 60 vatios es el número de parte de Apple 630-0102.
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Nuestra comparación iMac presenta una fuente de alimentación de 186 vatios, que se ajusta a una placa de circuito considerablemente más pequeña que la de los 128K.
The board on the right is more than just the power supply: it's called the "Analog Board" and includes a fair amount of the video circuitry (don't remember if there's any audio stuff on there)
That's not just the power supply -- it's the high voltage, deflection, and video drive circuitry for the CRT.
(...and audio amp, and speaker...)
The good news is that if you could take a battery from one of Apple's newer laptops (say, perhaps the last Macbook with a user-replaceable battery), wire it to the Macintosh, and get as much battery life as the laptop. Or perhaps much more since you couldn't actually use the old computer for much.
It's probably a good place to point out that the 128, 512, and Plus all shipped with no fans. All part of Steve Job's obsession with silent machines no matter how it harmed the hardware. There were many ways available to get Fans into the case. Kensington had a device that slid into the handle that was both power supply and case fan. Some of the various interior upgrade cards came with little internal case fans.
I sure hope you discharged that CRT before you pulled the anode connection! Given that picture tubes are pretty much a thing of the past nowadays, it might behoove you to include a few words about chicken sticks and dealing with 20- 30kVDC.
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Y el premio al avance tecnológico más notable se otorga a: Pantallas de Mac. Este enorme CRT antiguo está muy lejos de los gráficos que ofrecen las pantallas Retina ultrafinas de hoy.
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Abultados, pesados y llenos de plomo, estas pistolas de electrones de la vieja escuela en tubos de vacío y sus bobinas de desviación causaron furor en los años 80. ¡Totalmente tubular!
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Incluso hace 30 años, a Apple le gustaban los envases ordenados. Con solo un poco de persuasión, la placa lógica se desliza fuera de su bandeja.
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No hay enfriamiento activo en este papá Mac. El Motorola 68000 tiene un poco de espacio para respirar, pero nada más.
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Este procesador, comúnmente llamado 68k, es un chip sorprendentemente popular. Además de Macintosh, también se puede encontrar en Sega Genesis, Commodore Amiga, Atari ST e incluso en la calculadora gráfica TI-89.
Don't forget, the m68k was in the first Palm PDAs! (For roughly a good decade, too!)
Been awhile since I checked the specs, but I'm pretty sure my TI-89 has more RAM and power than this Mac!
You wrote, "Even 30 years ago, Apple had a thing for tidy packaging." While that's true, Apple's tidy packaging dates back at least to the Apple II. It had a compact (for its day) switching power supply, the motherboard layout was super clean (the Apple I mobo also had a neat layout), and don't forget the sleek plastic case.
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IC notables en la placa lógica Mac 128K:
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Microprocesador Motorola MC68000G8
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Fairchild Semiconductor 74LS393 Video Counter
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Micron 4264 64 kb RAM (64 kb x 16 chips = 1024 kb, o 128 KB)
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Simtek C19728 y C19729 32 KB ROM (32 KB x 2 IC = 64 KB)
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Simtek 344-0041-A "Integrated Woz Machine" Controlador de disco
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Controlador de comunicaciones serie Zilog Z8530PS
In fact, hobbyists and renegade repair shops would field-upgrade 128K machines to 512K by piggybacking additional RAM atop the existing chips.
Yup! A friend of mine (a former Cray field tech!) did that to my 128, giving me a cheap double-your-RAM upgrade!
Those chips are Synertek, not Simtek.
I had a floor model which I believe was first week's production. In Jan 1985, a RAM upgrade cost ~$750 but by December, that had fallen to $75--if you wanted to solder it in yourself. I got mine from MacMemory--and I got a long Torx screwdriver from them also. I snipped off the old ram and sucked out the old solder. I had the option of soldering in chip holders or soldering the RAM in directly, and I chose to do it directly--it had to be fast and precise because the circuit board was four layers thick and you couldn't overheat the chips. You have no idea what a wonderful feeling it was when I turned it on, a smiley face appeared and it went dong!
What the article doesn't say is who the secret of upgradablity of the MAC motherboard was for (who they had to keep it secret from), Steve Jobs. He forbade them from making the motherboard upgradable. They had the last laugh though. The row of platethroughs next to the processor can have a small board soldered into it with one IC on it. A 74S158 if I remember. You could then unsolder the 64K chips and put in 256k chips. I remember doing this to a hackintosh I made way back in 1986.
This lack of upgradablity/reparablity pervaded almost everything Jobs built. I think he was offended by the idea that anyone would want expand (this would mean they were not adequate) or alter his perfect creations.
Re: Mac 512K upgrades. At the time I worked for a semiconductor manufacturer so getting the necessary 74S157 and 16 ea 256Kx1 DRAMs was fairly easy. Finding the correct Torx driver was the bigger challenge.
Friends would bring their 128K Macs over and in two hours had a 512K Mac ... and I had $200 in my pocket. Big money back in 1984!
I didn't own a mac 128 but I did have a couple of Macintosh Plus machines. When I opened one up, I was driven to ask why it was called "Plus" rather than "Minus." Because it was minus a disk controller, minus video hardware, minus anything but the simplest audio hardware, minus any kind of expansion bus other than SCSI. All this "hardware" was actually emlulated in software at boot time by the CPU.
While this is quite a tribute to the abilities of the 68000 processor, the task of creating and maintaining all this phantom hardware meant there wasn't much left for actually doing work.
I had to wonder why this machine cost so much when it had so little inside it. This, together with the intentional lack of upgradeability, epitomises the Jobs world view which influenced everything Apple did, even up to today. The amazing thing to me is that so many people seem to be ok with this.
Not marked as "notable", but very important are the 6 HAL (Hardcoded Array Logic) chips, at D1, D2, D3, E1, E2 and E14. IIRC it was the first time these chips were used in a desktop computer; they were responsible for coordinating all the CPU, RAM, ROM and peripheral timing and decoding, and for potential cloners they were harder to reverse-engineer than standard TTLs.
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¿Qué tenemos aquí? ¿Una imprenta de Sony…? ¿Cepilladora? ¿Turbo Encabulator?
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Sabemos que adivinaste bien; es un disquete de 3.5 pulgadas que lleva nuevamente a la nueva tecnología, dejando las antiguas unidades de 5.25 pulgadas en el pasado.
And a box of 10 of these retailed for $50, if you could even find them in the early days.
They were extremely expensive. Fortunately, HP were using the same drives in some of their systems. I was able to persuade a friend who worked at HP the buy a case of floppy disks (10 boxes, each box containing 10 floppies) at the employee discount price of only $290.
John -
You can actually see that the opening in the front of the metal frame, through which the little 3.5" drive pokes, is designed for the full width 5.25" Twiggy floppy mechanism. Strangely this extra wide opening in the frame survived several original Mac redesigns, and was present in the SE series, and the Classic series of compact Macs for almost 10 years.
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CLICK CLACK CLICKITY CLACKITY
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Otros dicen ESCUCHEN MI TECLADO BIEN RUIDOSO.
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En cualquier caso, la primera persona que adivine lo que estamos escribiendo en el video ganará un premio: una útil herramienta de extracción de batería de bolsillo.
You got it! Congrats, vwlou89, we'll get your prize out to you ASAP :D
The Quick Brown Fox Jumps Over the Lazy Dog
Jackdaws love my big sphinx of quartz!
Thank you for the video and Audio. Music to my ears!
Does anyone have an extra keyboard cable or could you lend me yours, so I can scan it and make a 3D copy of the jacks. I need to get my old Mac up and running again (@vassko)
I have a good supply of brand new Mac 128K-Plus keyboard cables. But they are Platinum in color, for the later version of the Plus model.
You can crimp your own; just crimp one of the standard RJ9 connectors upside down from the other, producing a "straight through" cable.
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Quitar algunos tornillos nos permite echar un vistazo dentro del teclado.
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La unión profana de teléfono y computadora nunca fue vista otra vez.
The keyboard key-switches were not that hard. Apple Service taught key switch replacement as part of Apple //e certification.
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¡Ahora para un poco de disección del ratón! No se preocupe, esto será mucho más humano que lo que sucedió en laclase de biología de la escuela secundaria.
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Lanzamos la bola del ojo con un giro rápido.
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Abierto, encontramos muchas vísceras de plástico, dos codificadores en cuadratura y algunas resistencias. Sorprendentemente, eso es todo lo que encontramos.
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Macintosh 128K Puntaje de reparabilidad 7 de 10 (10 es el más fácil de reparar).
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Una vez dentro, es sencillo y sencillo reemplazar cualquiera de los componentes principales: unidad de disquete, fuente de alimentación, placa lógica o pantalla CRT.
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Sin adhesivo en ninguna parte.
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Batería de reloj reemplazable por el usuario.
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Capacidad de actualización limitada: la memoria RAM está soldada a la placa lógica y no se puede reemplazar, y no hay una ranura / puerto para agregar una unidad interna. Sin embargo, puede expandir el almacenamiento a través de una unidad de disquete externa opcional.
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El estuche es bastante difícil de abrir, con tornillos profundamente empotrados y un ajuste apretado del panel.
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Hay un alto voltaje peligroso tanto en la fuente de alimentación como en el CRT que hacen que la reparación sea potencialmente peligrosa.
A third party offered a hard drive that mounted internally, using a clip atop the CPU.
You're thinking of the SCSI interface upgrade. It clipped over the CPU and a ribbon cable was snaked out through the battery door. As far as installing an internal drive, you had to remember that it would be a while before 3.5" HDs would even be available, and that they were initially the same height as 5.25" 1/2-height drives (full height being about 3.25").
cityzen -
Ah, the Hyperdrive: http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=hyperdri...
I was thinking of something like the Dove MacSnap: http://www.vintagemacworld.com/macsnap.h...
The Hyperdrive was pretty rare & expensive, whereas upgrade kits like the MacSnap eventually became cheap & common.
cityzen -
ding ding ding Dave got it right. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Com...
The RAM 'could' be replaced. I know, because I can remember upgrading my 128k machine to 512k on my kitchen table. I wouldn't recommend anyone try it because it's a lot of chips to unsolder.
Back in those days I made a good bit of money upgrading and repairing these old Macs. The RAM upgrade was unsoldering the old RAM, replacing with 256K x 1 chips, and there was a little circuit board that soldered into the 7 solder flow through holes located at one end of the 68000 CPU (next to the resistor pack).
I still have a good bit of Mac 128K parts and pieces in storage.
I am looking for advice on a Mac 128k I bought a few months back it turned on then. Now the power is on lights can be seen through the floppy slot but the monitor doesn’t come on not even static. Any ideas anyone work on the units?
Seriously, iFixit? Complaining about the non-user upgradeable RAM? Who would ever need more than 128k of RAM??
But you could upgrade the memory. I did it on mine!! Going from memory:
1) order 16 DIP dynamic RAM memory chips (4164, with 64 kilobits each) for a few hundred bucks total.
2) Carefully bend up the /RAS pin (or maybe it was the /CAS pin) of each DIP
3) Piggyback the DIPS onto the existing memory chips, and solder the other 15 pins on each one.
4) Solder a wire daisy-chaining the bent /RAS pins on all 16 of the new 4164s.
5) I forget whether you had to dead-bug a 74xx TTL onto the board, or if the appropriate chip-select was already in the circuitry, but somehow you got the right signal to go to the daisy-chained RAS line.
And that's all there is to it.
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12 commentaires
I can remember upgrading a Mac - kinda scary since new it cost me like $3,000! All went well and I did a couple of more for friends.
The Lisa was much easier to work with - the stuff just slide out like a tray. Had one that had been converted by Sun Computer in UT. I was the envy of all my friends with that machine - 'big' screen!
The RAM 'could' be replaced. I know, because I can remember upgrading my 128k machine to 512k on my kitchen table. I wouldn't recommend anyone try it because it's a lot of chips to unsolder.
http://tieudunghay.com/threads/xu-huong-...
a e s t h e t i c
Can iFixit do another Take-Apart that is a little newer?
I'm opening my mac, same model. Is there any risk of getting electrocuted with the monitor or any other part if the computer has been turned on recently?
possibly. You always want to make sure that you discharge all the caps including the CRT. NOTE: A CRT can carry a charge even when the display or system is turned off and can build up a secondary charge after the power is removed. Because of dangerously high voltages it is important that you do not touch any of the following parts inside the product housing until after the display is disconnected from its power source and properly discharged.
.05 joules is not "dangerously high". Old wives' tale.
I had one of these in middle school, bought it from the neighbor for $25 including the original box and Apple printer. Wish I still had it, as I could have bought a new MacBook Pro for what they go for on eBay with the original box and manuals!
Tidbit - Mine had a 1MB RAM expansion board in it, it piggybacked in on top of the existing chips with some funky clip that fit over the top of a couple of the chips. Not sure how it worked but the guy I bought it from said that expansion board cost almost as much as the computer did back in 1985 when he bought it!
This is amazing | Este post es genial
Ok
My Mac+ floppy goes in but does not click or latch. What is wrong. The rest of my Mac is fired up and asks me to load a disc, but I cant.
Please give any suggestions
Thanks
Mark in TN
On my “classic” MAC the disk drive is broken - won’t accept a diskette -(I will make nomenclature/jargon mistakes)
I took the MAC and accessories to a touted repair shop - no joy! Couldn’t get the case open. He sent it elsewhere, same result.
What to do? Where to go? I’m thinking the T15 screw heads are stripped, and drilling is the only answer? My great granddaughter wants to know what happened to the computer. I put it away until I can get it working again.
Any course of action, please. thanks, Mike Klein, Alexandria Va.
The mac could support more than 2 colors (grey for example)
Lucas Hoekstra (Lucas9810) - Réponse