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You need to be able to see the latch and screws to disassemble.
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The bottom cover will then slide towards the bottom of the picture, and can be removed.
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One of the latches is spring-loaded, and will need to be held in the unlocked position.
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The HDD is held in by four Philips screws, while the RAM module has two spring-loaded arms.
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The RAM's spring-loaded arms just need to be pushed away from the RAM module, and the module will then pop up and can be slid out.
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The two red circles indicate where antennas plugged in. They simply pop upwards.
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The card is then held in by a single screw.
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There is also a screw in the bottom right corner, which isn't pictured.
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The two screws are spring-loaded and won't come all the way out. They just need to be loose.
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There is a gap next to the unit's fan (circled in red) large enough for a screwdriver to pop the keyboard loose. Simply push down.
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You might have more success if you open the unit and stand it on it's side prior to popping the keyboard loose.
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You should pull the top edge loose, and slide the keyboard upward.
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The cable on the left can be removed from either the keyboard or the systemboard.
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Ribbon cables are held onto their connectors by a small plastic locking latch. Those latches lift up, and the cable slides out.
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There is one on the left, and one on the right. Both are partially pictured, but were cut from the image during cropping.
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These are Philips-head, and have been circled in red.
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If you're repairing a user-damaged machine, this would be a great place to look for spill damage.
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You'll notice that the top of this unit has spill damage to the systemboard, speakers, and top cover.
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I recommend pulling the tape and plastic protectors (circled at the bottom) off and setting them someplace safe. The tape isn't easy to replace if damaged or folded.
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The plug in the top left is actually for the speakers, not the wireless card, but is wedging the wireless cables into their plastic guide.
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The fan is also held by a screw in the bottom right. This was partially cut off in the image.
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The ribbon cable doesn't need to fully be removed. Only the left side is needed to get the systemboard out.
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If there is any resistance you should double-check that all cables and screws have been removed or disconnected.
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The cable on the bottom left goes to a thumbprint scanner, while the cables on the right belong to the unit's SC Reader.
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The power board in the top left is also removable, but normally doesn't need replacement, and the two hinges can be loosened to pull the LCD assembly off of this top cover.
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13 commentaires
Hi, thank you for this guide !
I successfully managed in disassembling my Elitebook 840 and change the fan.
-However-, when reassembling it, I was surprised to see that my touchpad doesn't work anymore (but the mouse nipple works perfectly). I don't really understand because I didn't disconnect anything except the keyboard (that is not connected on the same ribbon cables, so...).
I tried to reinitialize it from the Windows panel, but no luck.
Do you have an idea of what could be wrong ?
Thank you,
Ken.
Hi Ken,
Sorry I missed this!
Is the little orange light lit in the top-right of your touchpad? If so, double-tap on it and the touchpad should re-enable.
If the light isn't lit, that touchpad connects to the board under the battery (right side). You should double-check those cables, and then double-check where that board connects to the systemboard under your keyboard. My bet is that something is loose along that path.
Good luck!
Nic
Great guide.
Unfortunately due to my the speed my keyboard popped-off I broke the thin white cable in step 9. I seem to have lost backlit functionality from my keyboard but everything else is working okay. I'm assuming that's what that ribbon does but I could be incorrect. Any idea what that cable does exactly?
Hi Shaun,
I know this is about 9 months too late, but I'm sorry to hear that the cable ripped. They are definitely pretty fragile.
Aside from the backlight, the functionality of the track point might be impacted. I wouldn't expect any other issues, though, so at least the damage is limited in scale.
Good luck on your next project!
Best,
Nic
I wish you had done the screen as well in your tear down, just so people know how easy the screen is to take off. I replaced my screen with a higher resolution a few months ago and it took me all of 15 minutes to do most of that time was just taking off the bezel but once that is off it's only 4 screws and unplugging the connection ribbon. Once you place the new screen and hooked up there is 4 holders so you can turn your computer on before screwing the screen on just to make sure the part is in good working condition.
