Ce tutoriel a des changements plus récents. Passer à la dernière version non vérifiée.
Introduction
Voici une manette DualShock 4 dont les deux joysticks analogiques étaient sujets à la dérive. Un simple remplacement des joysticks a résolu le problème.
Le joystick est soudé à la carte mère de la manette. Il vous faudra un fer à souder pour réaliser cette réparation.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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À l'aide d'un tournevis Phillips #00, retirez les quatre vis de 6,0 mm qui maintiennent en place le capot arrière de la manette.
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Commencez par la poignée gauche :
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Serrez la poignée gauche de la manette pour créer une ouverture.
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Insérez un outil en plastique dans l'ouverture et faites-le glisser jusqu'au joystick.
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Appuyez sur l'outil en plastique afin d'ouvrir la coque.
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Répétez ces étapes pour la poignée droite.
Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.
Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).
I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)
Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!
couldn't have posted pics for me? :D
Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.
Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.
You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2
When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.
If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.
Simon -
if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.
So what I seem to see a lot of sources fail to mention with this model (and promptly break without noticing) are the two plastic tabs attached to the front shell on either side of the headphone jack ; in order to properly pry that section open, all you need to do is lightly push those plastic tabs in, and the section should open up easily. That seems to be one of the main things that prevent people from prying the shell open.
The updated models have the tabs as well, but aren’t as stubborn considering the bars between the shoulder buttons on those are inside as opposed to being a part of the shell.
Hope this helps, and feel free to discuss, especially if you’re more familiar with the issue than me.
Thank you so much for mentioning exactly where the internal tabs are located, I couldn't for the life of me get into the controller otherwise.
I found using two thin plastic guitar picks, the kind that bend more freely, worked very well to shimmy into place on either side of the headphone jack and pop the tabs to get the device to open.
I did break a small piece from one of the teeth on the back half of the shell that inserts into the tabs, but I believe this was accidentally done before I came across your comment and was prying with a spudger willy-nilly.
Gently wiggling the front half of the shell containing the main portion of the electronics allowed me to release the triggers and open the controller the rest of the way.Very helpful, Rifter. Thank you.
I found this shell assembly surprisingly difficult to separate if you don’t want to break the hook/tabs (and I’m a mechanic, fwiw). There are two pairs of hooks, and none of them are near the “share” and “options” buttons as Step 3 suggests. Like Rifter mentioned, one pair is on either side of the headphone interface. The other is along the sides, right up near the L and R paddles.
With whatever tool you’re using (bike-tire levers work for me), pry it under the outside base of one of the handles (not inside), lever the tool downward a bit (controller is right-side-up), and slide it forward toward the L/R paddle. That downward rotation should help ease the tab off the hook. For the headphone tabs, pushing inward on the two top-half joystick mounds will help ease those off of the hooks, but you have to push pretty hard.
If you get them apart, you’ll then be able to gently wriggle the circuit ribbon connector off of the top-half pc board (don’t use a tool - you’ll break it).
Why is this guide about unlatching the plastic clips before forcing the halves apart, completely separate and just linked here? I missed it and now 3/4 of my plastic clips are broken. It should not be a separate guide, it should be in the main guide, it's only a couple pictures!
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Pour ouvrir la manette, insérez un outil en plastique et appuyez dessus au niveau des boutons suivants :
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Le bouton Share
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Le bouton Options
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Séparez les deux parties de la coque de la manette. N'oubliez pas que ces deux ensembles sont encore maintenus par les nappes de connexion des cartes électroniques!
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2 ressorts de gâchette
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1 extension en plastique du bouton Reset
You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.
SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?
I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?
Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.
tcbrekke -
I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)
My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.
The5HD -
When reassembling: If, like me, your R2/L2 buttons stayed with the bottom of the controller when you took it apart, it will be impossible to reassemble and get the tiny springs back in place.
To remedy, remove the buttons, and attach them, with the springs correctly placed, to the top of the controller. There are two tiny grooves, one on the button, and one on the controller top, into which the spring fits.
Jeff, we owe you a six pack for this comment.
Thank You!! The spring came out and I looked for a way to reinsert it. So I led a thread through its opening (so it couldn´t jump away), and compressed it with pliers. So it was easy to put it in.
VauWeh -
Jeff, you've been a wonderfully helpful Human. Thanks for the ingenious tip.
Kris W -
Thanks man i was struggling there
Something is stopping me from opening it cause it cut both by splitting tools
Mine was also really really resistant to being pried open. In the end, i did my best to loosen the entire gap at least once, then inserted along the middle bottom and used more force than i would have been comfortable with. The plastic on the edges is slightly shot now and it’s not as smooth a grip-feeling anymore, but it came apart fine and I didn’t break anything important. There is just a lot of surface for a friction fit like this and the joysticks keep pulling it back down, which in combination makes it really resilliant. In my case it also was exuberated by a minor soda spill along the right handle which ‘glued’ it together, and i imagine that can also happen just with use and ‘hand cheese’, especially on the outer edges. There is a lot of surface area to stick together there.
The ribbon cable can be removed without having to pull too much https://youtu.be/y40RUDSPeiA?si=9Y3gNB1w...
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Détachez la nappe de la carte mère, qui relie les deux côtés de la manette, en la tirant vers le haut avec vos doigts.
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Une fois les deux moitiés séparées, mettez la partie supérieure de la manette de côté.
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Retirez la vis cruciforme #00 6 mm qui se trouve derrière le boîtier de la batterie.
Hello. I got a new graffiti controller (without hardware) and i wanted to switch my parts in the graffiti one. I have a PS4 Controller. Not a slim. But it seems like my motherboard screw is on the other side.. its on the right side of the motherboard and my graffiti is on the left.. what controller do i need to fix this?
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Détachez délicatement la nappe du pavé tactile connectée à la carte mère à l'aide d'une pincette émoussée. Cette nappe est maintenue par un clapet qui s'ouvre pour déconnecter ou raccorder la nappe. Pour reconnecter la nappe durant le remontage, vous devez retirer délicatement le support plastique de la carte mère et ouvrir le clapet.
Be very careful when you detach the touchpad ribbon. You could disconnect the other end that is inside the touchpad. In fact I would recommend you use a plastic spudger to release the clips on the sides of the battery holder, and then lift the latch to the ZIF socket of the touchpad. If your touchpad is not working upon reassembly, then the other end of the ribbon cable my have came loose in the touchpad. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the back of the touchpad, and lift the brown latch of the ZIF socket and reinsert.
thanks for the advice
TMC -
currently doing this and have found the desoldering part the most difficult. i purchased a 40w solder on sale and attempted to remove with flux and wick to no avail. a buddy of mine tried with his station and no dice. at this point im thinking the contacts are lead? any advice?
So the springs are annoying couldn't see were you talk about these as it's very fiddly to do the last step of putting it back together. Not just a reverse of taking it apart!
I concur. The springs are the worst part of this job. It would be nice if someone edited this to add some tricks for reassembly.
You just have to put the r2/l2 buttons on the top side. There's a space around that white rubber thing where you can just snap them in. So that you have all the shoulder buttons together before putting the 2 parts back together.
Tilt your controller and trigger so the triggers are pointing to the ground it stops the spring popping out so much place spring inside the trigger and clip on thats how i do it anyway :) the touchpad is my problem area replaced my stick covers and now it just doesnt work at all :(
Thank you for this recommendation. Made disassembly SO much smoother.
What I did for the Springs was place the spring on the button. Turned the button to where the spring is up on top then attached the button to the controller this helps keep the spring in place as you reattach it that is really the only trick that I found to it.
“The touchpad ribbon is connected to the motherboard by a connector that flips to tighten and loosen” —> Just fixed a controller I bought in 2017. There was definitely no flip connector there, the ribbon simply went in. I guesss the internals changed. So beware: don’t mess with the female connector on the motherboard if there’s no obvious flip switch.
Thank you. I just broke a piece of the plastic because it will not flip. I could not figure it out and was wondering if the version in these demonstrations was different than mine. Thank you for addressing this.
never had spring problem
Just want to say big thanks to ifixit for mentioning the flap. It worked like a charm. I searched high and low on all the usual forums, Reddit, Youtube, you name it. Who knew it was as simple as flipping the flap and no one even thought of mentioning it until I found this website.
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Retirez soigneusement l'ensemble de la carte mère de la coque avant.
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Les vibreurs sont attachés de façon lâche à l'ensemble carte mère. Prenez-les en main aux extrémités pour les séparer facilement.
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Le démontage réussi de la manette résulte en les trois parties suivantes, respectivement :
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L'ensemble carte mère
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La coque avant
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La coque arrière
One day my R2 trigger refused to work all in a sudden. The second day it spread to my square button. I dissembled the controller to this step and found some liquid between the green motherboard and the black plastic holding it. I should not have bought a second-hand especially for a launch version. Anyways I cleaned it up and it still didn't work. I then went to ebay and bought a new motherboard. Basically it is a piece of delicate plastic like PCB. It is held in place by 3 plastic columns and 3 gaps for sliding underneath both triggers and the touch pad. Sorry for no pictures but a careful removal of the old one would give you the best illustration of how to put the new one back. First remove the rubber pads of the triggers, which allows you to slide in the PCB. Then there are another 2 small plastic columns at the back of the gap near the touch pad. There is no need to detach the rotors. A pair of tweezers would help greatly. My controller now works perfectly like new and thanks to the author.
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Utilisez une "Troisième main" ou un outil similaire pour maintenir le circuit imprimé stable pour le travail de soudure.
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Ce sont les connexions qui devront être dessoudées. Puisque le circuit est à l'envers, la gauche deviendra la droite.
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Utilisez de la tresse à dessouder et du flux pour faire fondre et retirer la soudure
Bessere Alternative zu Entlötlitze und Flussmittel wäre ein Entlötsauger. Gibt es für um die 7 Euro bei Conrad oder ähnlich. Saugt das Lötzinn gleich weg und vermeidet eine Sauerei auf der Platine. So wie im nächsten Schritt... Sieht nachher viel sauberer aus!
De cuánto de temperatura 🌡️? Por favor quiero saber gracias
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Une fois tous les contacts dessoudés, l'ancien joystick peut être retiré. Cela peut demander un peu de pratique car toutes les soudures devront être retirées. Tout en faisant fondre la soudure à l'aide de la tresse à dessouder, tirer un peu sur le joystick peut aider à le retirer plus facilement.
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Assurez-vous que les contacts du joystick de remplacement soient identiques à l'original.
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Vérifiez que tous les trous soient débarrassés de l'ancienne soudure. Des aiguilles hypodermiques ainsi que de très petits forets peuvent être utilisés pour nettoyer les trous. La substance d'aspect fondu sur le circuit imprimé est le flux utilisé pour le dessoudage.
Hi Im haveing alot of trouble finding a reputable place to buy a replacement analog stick. Can anyone suggest a good place(that ships U.S) that sells a replacement of good quality?
Yeeeeeeeeeeahhh…I’m going to recommend you don’t use needles or bits to clear the holes. Just use high-quality solder-wick and flux to clear the holes— with an appropriate soldering tip. I see the OP used flux paste (judging from the prep) and used a brush to spread it. I’d highly recommend liquid flux; Amtech NC-559 flux — it’s the best I’ve ever used. Do the job correctly, and you’ll have no issues. PS — Try to use minimal heat when doing the job, as well. It’s probably just the way his flux paste burned, but it looks like he may have applied heat far longer than needed for those joints, but it could just be the flux burning. Also, clean the area with ~95% isopropyl alcohol (or higher) so it isn’t disgustingly sticky when that flux dries.
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Insérez le nouveau joystick dans le circuit imprimé. Assurez-vous qu'il est correctement positionné et que tous les contacts sont alignés avec les trous du circuit imprimé.
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Soudez tous les contacts au circuit imprimé.
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Voici le circuit imprimé après la réparation. Il ne reste plus qu'à nettoyer les résidus de flux avec de l'alcool isopropylique.
What kind of solder is good for this
Is this actually possible with a soldering iron?
It sure is. I used a regular run of the mill soldering iron. Nothing fancy…..are you having trouble with soldering it?
i did this and the analog will either not work at all or move all the way to one side on screen.
Hi, nice guide. I am having problems with ps4 controller. I am not able to desolder them. I work alot with xbox controllers and other stuff and i do not have Any kind of problems, but with ps4 controllers i am not able to desolder them with desoldering pistol, wick, adding solder and using my tools to desolder. I don't know what the problem is.
This is a double sided/soldered board. You need a a heat-gun and a lot of heat reflecting protection. I did it by carefully braking the joystick components apart and tackling each soldered joint once in isolation. Not easy.
There are many analog sticks out there. How do I know if the one I'm buying is compatible with my Dual Shock 4? Do you guys have a link to where I can buy the correct sticks for my controller which is model 2?
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.
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37 commentaires
Where can i buy the left stick ?
Swammieslippyslappy, there is no lead in the device, if so the solder would release much easier. Lead Solder goes to liquid at 180-190 Celsius vs lead free at 212-226 Celsius. I would suggest buying a desoldering iron (cheap ones are fine $10-$20 they have the bulb attached for one handed operation) as using a solder wick becomes rather tedious with the smaller parts.
Very helpful guide!! I've never soldered/desoldered anything before so this was a little difficult for me. I ran into a few problems along the way: my inital soldering iron was 30W and it wasn't melting the solder, so I had to buy a 40W iron and that one did the trick. I also had a rough time using the desoldering wick (the solder didn't seem to suck up into the wick) so I ended up using a combination of a desoldering pump and the wick. I eventually got the piece out and the rest was easy! Thanks again and if anybody needs help with this project feel free to message me and I'll do the best I can to help.
Hi SergeantCorbett,
I don't know if your offer still applies but I'm a soldering virgin and would appreciate any nuggets of wisdom you may have for me!
Thanks a lot
Jake
I managed to carry out the stick replacement. Desoldering was definitely the most difficult part.
Whilst I was struggling with the desoldering I accidentally leant my iron on the ribbon connector to the right and managed to melt it. I can not put the ribbon in the connector now.
The joypad works fine but it wont charge now because I can not reconnect the ribbon.
If anyone can give any advice of the pin layout of the connector so I can get it to charge, I would be really grateful. Or if anyone knows where I can source a replacement mainboard I would consider that as an option.
Hi tony,
Replacebase.co.uk do them
Cheers Jake
i did all this. had to use a solder pump and a soldering iron to remove the solder, coulding do it with just wick. put everything back together and everything is working now, except my L1 button? I just changed the Left analog. not sure what i did to futz up the L1. been searching the internets and have yet to find what to look for on this.
Some times the actual flex board is old and u have to buy a new one look at the board where the traces go to and conect with the casual pcb board the lil squares might be waisted and if they are u have to but. A new
Are you sure the controller will work after that? I'm going to be replacing that thing on my dads 2 controllers and That part of the motherboard that had to be desoldered looks super boiled, burnt and 100% broken. Whoever answers this you need to be 110% sure that the controller will still work after that
I should work . The reason it looks burnt is because they probably didn't use water soluble flux. So without the proper solvent chemicals, it left a gross brown residue. It's not actually burnt, just has a gross layer of flux that hasn't be cleaned off.
I had a feeling that this is what I was gonna have to do haha. Thanks for confirming that it would work!
Hi i have 1 problem. .. i changed my left stick, he's working but when i playing games automatically character walking to the left side... what is the problem i bought sticks from aliexpress and i got 2 sticks, so i tryed both of them... and still same problem.
What generation controller do u have the one with the light on the touch pad or the older
the problem is that you cant really change sticks on DS4.
every stick is different..thats why after placing the sticks in factory, sony is calibrate each stick by programming and you cant acces to it.
in NS switch for example nintendo let you recalibrate stick.
so changing sticks on PS4 or xbox one is hit and miss
I bought 2 sticks from ebay(seller: oo_875, ). the seller is related with the first comment ebay seller(you can find that clue from their review comment).
they are selling MALFUNCTION products. I think It is a same problem that Marius mentioned (the previous comment writer).
and I think a 40w soldering tool is not enough for desoldering that(took so long)
So, I failed.
Be careful on buying stuff and good luck to you.
I had a problem with unmelting solder before. Fixed by sanding and tining the soldering iron.
@dengo all the work was done with an inexpensive 30W soldering iron.
Actually 30w soldering iron is not enough buy a 60w one that will be better also u can buy the low melting solder so that u can desolder it way
Could the heat of the soldering iron damage the joysticks?
Laser Bean only if you burn the components or traces…….
did everything properly but when i connect my right analog stick drifts up and stays there
Hello, thanks for very helpfull guide.
I have two controllers, both with same issue - broken left stick. Is it possible to take the RIGHT stick from older controller and use it for LEFT stick position on controller? Is there any difference between left and right stick?
Thanks a lot for an answer.
Karel
Better yet practice removing them on controllers you do not use or need anymore, before the controller you actually want. The left and right sticks are the same, however the pin configuration may be diff on the board. In other words soldered in backward from the left.
My god, just replace it. Unless you have alot of experience in soldering and removing solder. Do not attempt unless its for practice. I did a mic replacement jack(headphone) and practiced on 2 with proper equipment. A large magnifying glass will go a long way as well. Soldering is an art much like welding, practice, understand what your getting into or simply trade the old one in for 30 and get a new one.
Bonjour j'ai bien fait toute les étapes mais une fois remonter le joystick ne fonctionne pas du tout pouvez vous m'aidez svp merci bonne journée email : lucas-boccaccini@hotmail.fr
Where can you buy original joysticks, most of the ebay ones don’t work properly as there is a huge deadzone at the edges of the sticks
Hi, i cant desolder ps4 analogue sticks, solder doesn't melt with flux, wick, add a bit of solder too and it doesn't melt. Why? I can fix xbox controllers easily with the same solder iron.. Can anyone help me understand why this is happening?
Ps:i can solder the rumble motors with no problem.
Original solder is lead-free which is harder to melt than ordinary lead solder. Some people add some lead-based solder to the joints and mix it with the present non-lead solder, it makes it easier to melt. Also some spots require a higher temperature as the temperature 'escapes' quickly, for example: onto the analog stick metal cover.
Pawel C. -
I recommend using a heat gun, solder sucker, or a real desoldering gun. Using a only wick to desolder was pretty impossible for my controller since the entire hole, both sides, were filled with non-leaded solder. So I got a solder sucker and even then ended up prying out the stick since there was still a little solder left on the other side. And in the end, the replacement stick that I got off of ebay has very bad response, nothing like the OEM.
Yo lo realice y me queda apuntando para la izquierda. Nada más que podrá ser ya lo cambie 2 veces y sigue igual
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Yo usé un Phillips #000, ya que el #00 quedaba grande y podía dañar el tornillo.
Adolfo Gomez Toledo - Réponse
A plain #0 works way better for me
Jennica Tapia - Réponse
I agree with Jennica, it's a #0 screw
Peeter - Réponse
to re-torque these PH00 screw... i found 19Ncm to be about the max. (since 27Ncm was too much)
Dreamcat 4 - Réponse