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Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Enlevez le cache piles en maintenant la languette de verrouillage appuyée tout en soulevant le cache.
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Utilisez une spatule (spudger), une pincette ou un ongle pour déverrouiller la nappe LCD en soulevant les loquets gris sur les côtés (vers le haut du circuit imprimé).
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Une fois que le port de la nappe de l'écran LCD a été ouvert, la nappe devrait être très facile à débrancher et peut être retirée avec les doigts ou une pincette sans avoir à forcer.
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Cut the plastic from the shell, aligned with red markers.
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Use a cutter to cut the big pieces of plastic.
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Use the cutter again to cut some plastic from the shell. This is required for the LCD to fit properly.
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Use a knife or a flathead screwdriver to flatten it. Make it as flat as possible and take all the plastic away.
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Do this for all sides which you have cut before.
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Inspect if everything is cut and if everything is flat. If it looks good, then proceed!
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Don't worry about the front. Most of the times the front is still good, the cutting at the back side won't be visible when everything is in. But please check before you proceed.
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Test if the screen sits flush.
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Place a new lens in the shell.
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It should look like the 2nd picture. It should be attached with the tape that's already on the lens. Make sure that the lens is clean and not damaged!
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Now take the plastic foil from the screen.
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Put the screen in the shell.
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Place the buttons in the shell.
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Place the start/select rubber in the shell.
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Put the rubbers in.
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You can also place the L/R buttons in already, but it won't be a problem to do this later if you want.
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Fold the LCD cable in a "Z" form. The cable is too long, this needs to be done, otherwise it won't fit.
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Now it's a good time to take the adapter with you!
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Plug the LCD cable in the ZIF socket as displayed in the 2nd picture.
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Fold the LCD cable in the "Z" form again and place the adapter on the screen as displayed in the 3rd picture.
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Usually there is tape on the bracket, but if not, just place some anti-electrical tape to secure it.
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Don't forget to fold the cable in the "Z" form.
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Place the motherboard in. WHEN the motherboard is at place, then proceed.
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Put the screws back in, highlighted in red.
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Some models have a third screw.
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The 2nd picture shows when everything is in place with the screws in.
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Open the ZIF connector again and put the cable back in.
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Close the ZIF connector with the LCD ribbon cable in. Make sure the red cable from the adapter is at it's place as shown in the 2nd picture.
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The 3rd picture shows how it needs to be.
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This is the pin you need! It's the LEFT leg of DA1 !
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Put tape on the other IC's. Just to prevent bridges and just to be sure that you have the correct pin.
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Route the cable as shown in picture 1.
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The 2nd picture shows when it's all good and finished.
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Now place the bumpers and the L/R buttons (if not done earlier). Don't forget to place the on/off button back too!
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Place the backplate back and put the screws back in.
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That's it! If everything is done it should work now. Have fun gaming!
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Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
4 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
11 commentaires
How would I add a way to control the brightness? is it as simple as soldering in an extra chip and wire?
Hi!
No, you can’t control the brightness with this mod. But I will try to create the IPS mod guide soon (hopefully next week)! With the IPS screen mod, you can control the brightness. But… you need to solder 3 wires. One on the TP2, and the other 2 cables for R and L buttons. You need to hold select, and press R and L to increase and decrease the brightness.
The IPS screen is a different screen with a special adapter. I’ll try to create the guide soon.
Perhaps it’s possible with another adapter for controlling the brightness on the AGS-101, but I don’t have this kind of adapter.
Hi there again!
Just finished the IPS mod guide!
Link: Game Boy Advance IPS Backlight mod
If you have questions/need help, please let me know.
Good luck!!
Do the ips v2 mod and the ags 101 mod require the same amount of plastic cutting?
Hi! No. The IPS v2 mod takes less amount plastic cutting. But it’s different (for the plastic that needs a cut) regarding the AGS-101 mod.