How to Install a Gusset to Enlarge a Sleeve

Introduction

If your shirt, dress, or other garment is too tight around your upper arm, use this guide to install a gusset to enlarge that area of the garment. This allows for a better fit and greater freedom of movement, and can help prolong the life of your garment.

Steps 5 and 6 require you to sew using a straight stitch and a zig-zag stitch respectively. If you do not already know how to make these stitches, the following guides can show you the basic method for each:

This guide will demonstrate the method using a sewing machine, but this repair can also be completed with a handheld needle and thread following the same steps.

Before using this guide, make sure your garment has been cleaned and pressed/ironed, as this will provide the best results during your repair.

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Étape 1 Sleeve

How to Install a Gusset to Enlarge a Sleeve, Sleeve: étape 1, image 1 de 3

How to Install a Gusset to Enlarge a Sleeve, Sleeve: étape 1, image 2 de 3

How to Install a Gusset to Enlarge a Sleeve, Sleeve: étape 1, image 3 de 3

Use tailor's chalk to mark 4 inches from the seam joining the sleeve to the bodice on the center sleeve seam.
Use tailor's chalk to mark 4 inches from the seam joining the sleeve to the bodice on the bodice seam.

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Étape 2

Use a seam ripper to remove the center sleeve and bodice seams up to the chalk marks.
Be sure to avoid splitting the horizontal seam joining the sleeve itself to the bodice.
Turn your garment inside out so the seams are facing towards you.

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Étape 3

How to Install a Gusset to Enlarge a Sleeve: étape 3, image 3 de 3

Create a pattern by drawing a diamond that is 4 inches by 3 inches on a piece of paper.
Add an additional half inch to each side for seam allowance.
Cut out your pattern using scissors.
On a piece of similarly-colored fabric, pin your pattern using sewing pins to hold it still on the fabric.
Using fabric scissors, cut out a diamond-shaped piece of fabric following the pattern you created. This is your gusset.

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Étape 4

How to Install a Gusset to Enlarge a Sleeve: étape 4, image 3 de 3

Line up your gusset against the hole in your garment.
The longer sides of the diamond should be pointing towards the cuff of the sleeve and the bodice.
Pin your gusset to the garment along the edges of the hole you created earlier.
You should pin them together with the edges of the gusset and hole overlapping by about half an inch for seam allowance.

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Étape 5

Using a sewing machine or needle and thread, take a quarter-inch stich on one edge of the diamond with a straight stitch.
Be sure to remove the pins ahead of your stitch as you move down the edge to avoid damage to your sewing machine.
Repeat this step for each of the remaining edges of the diamond.
Use sewing scissors to trim excess fabric along the edges past your stitch.

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Étape 6

Use a zig-zag stitch to seal the rough edges of the diamond using a sewing machine or needle and thread.
Turn your garment inside out again, so the seams are on the inside of the garment.
Inspect the gusset to make sure there are no gaps in your seam.