How to fix iTunes error 9 in an Apple iPhone 6s

Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, on either side of the Lightning connector.

Apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.

Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

During reassembly, the camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body. The hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip.

These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place.

During reassembly, reverse order for getting the screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left.

Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

One 2.9 mm screw

One 2.2 mm screw

Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

Three 1.2 mm screws

One 2.8 mm screw

Remove the display cable bracket.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the display assembly.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the following two Phillips screws over the rear camera bracket:

One 1.6 mm screw

One 2.0 mm screw

Remove the camera bracket.

Insert a spudger to the side of the camera, between the rear case and the camera module.

Gently pry up on the camera to nudge it out from its housing.

Remove the camera.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

Press to eject the tray.

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.

Remove the upper component cable connector bracket.

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the top left Wi-Fi antenna:

Two 1.5mm screws

One 2.3 mm screw

One 1.9 mm screw

One 2.0 mm screw

Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board.

Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the NFC bracket to the logic board.

Remove the NFC bracket.

Remove the following two Phillips screws:

One 2.5 mm screw at the top of the logic board

One 1.4 mm screw set into the upper edge of the rear case

Remove the plastic clip.

Remove the final three screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

One 2.5 mm hex nut

One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

Insert an opening pick below the lower edge of the logic board, between the board and the loudspeaker.

Use the opening pick to gently lift the logic board out of its housing.

Remove the logic board.

Remove the protective cover from the logic board.

Remove the black sticker from the logic board.

Place a heat shield over the other parts of the motherboard to avoid overheating.

Heat the affected area with a heat gun to reflow the solder.

Re-solder a new tristar chip onto the logic board.

Apply a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to the areas where flux was applied.