Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer une alimentation défaillante. Pour remplacer l'alimentation, il est nécessaire de retirer l'ensemble carte mère.

  1. Placez vos pouces dans les deux creux du capot inférieur.
    • Placez vos pouces dans les deux creux du capot inférieur.

    • Faites pivoter le capot inférieur dans le sens contraire des aiguilles d'une montre jusqu'à ce que le petit point blanc peint sur le capot soit aligné sur le repère correspondant du boîtier extérieur.

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  2. Inclinez le mini afin de séparer le capot inférieur du boîtier extérieur.
    • Inclinez le mini afin de séparer le capot inférieur du boîtier extérieur.

    • Retirez le capot inférieur et mettez-le de côté.

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    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 11,3 mm par lesquelles le ventilateur est fixé à la carte mère près de la plaque d'antenne.

    There are actually 3 T6 screws securing the fan. The third screw is out of the screenshot, just below the RAM.

    inferno10 - Réponse

    Nope, that third screw is actually just a post that the rubber grommet attached to the fan body slips over. Step 4 shows how the fan comes off of it. When you go to remove the fan, you simply remove the two screws closest to the antenna plate and then lift the fan off this post. The screw you are talking about is removed in Step 14 and does not need to be removed until this point.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    Successful install completed, but I had some trouble getting the fan reinstalled. When I removed the fan from the "Step 14" post, the rubber piece stayed on the post. When attempting to reinstall the fan, it was impossible to get the loop to go back over that rubber piece. So, I had to remove the post (again), and with the help of the spudger and some patience, worked it through. Then installed the fan using the 2 screws and the post. I think it may have saved some time and trouble if I just removed all 3 in the first place, leaving the post in the fan.

    meag -

    On mine I needed to remove the 26 mm T6 Torx standoff during this step rather than step 12

    philipashlock - Réponse

    on my mid-2011 mac mini, that 3rd T6 post/screw had to be removed to get the fan out. It goes right through a hole in the fan housing. No way the grommet is slipping over anything without wreaking major havoc.

    Derek Shaw - Réponse

    On my mid-2010 mac mini, also removed the 26 mm T6 Torx standoff during this step instead of step 12. Having completed the steps, it appears my hard drive is from mid 2011, so maybe the production line for mine had changed.

    jstraath - Réponse

    • Soulevez la patte de fixation du ventilateur la plus proche de la RAM de son support dans le boîtier extérieur.

    Whats a standoff? Is that a screw?

    brzmn - Réponse

    A standoff is like a screw extender. It screws into a screw-hole, and its head has a screw hole on it. When you attach something to a standoff, it makes that something stand off the original screw-hole surface.

    cityzen -

    Pulling on the ear didn't do anything, so I removed the whole screw at this step. The screw stayed fixed on the fan and I didn't have to remove it at the step where you remove the logic board screws.

    Probably I didn't want to use too much force .. but it worked

    Alexander Kogler - Réponse

    This is the approach I used. no way was the "ear" pulling over the head of the standoff without breaking something. The standoff simply unscrewed from whatever is under the logic board and stayed with the fan assembly. WAY safe

    Derek Shaw -

    Loosen the fan standoff from the motherboard using a T6 driver.

    bobcloninger - Réponse

    When I pulled the fan ear off the standoff the rubber grommet stayed on the standoff. That's fine, but it makes it difficult to put the fan ear back on during reassembly. So I just pulled the rubber grommet off the standoff and put it into the hole in the fan ear. Then I was able to push the fan ear onto the standoff with out trouble during reassembly.

    dhein - Réponse

    It seems easiest to just remove this screw now. It comes out in Step 12 anyway. This way you don't have to mess with the rubber grommet.

    moecastleton - Réponse

    • Soulevez le ventilateur hors du mini afin de libérer un espace suffisant pour accéder à son connecteur.

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Retirez le ventilateur.

    I was a bit too rough in unclipping the fan and broke off the connector on the board?

    Is my only option to replace the board?

    Anthony DeFreitas - Réponse

    • Retirez la vis Torx T6 3,5 mm par laquelle le capot est fixé au dissipateur thermique.

    This is a screw into the head of another screw below it that holds the main board. When I took out the fan, the top screw AND the longer 26 mm screw came out together so when I was putting my mini back together I thought for a moment I had lost a screw.

    info - Réponse

    Mine is stuck together too, but with a twist. They are not coming off. It starts to "jump" in the end, probably because the cover is pushing inwards the metal case. Any suggestion?

    douglaslondrina - Réponse

    In my Mac mini there is no cowling. Maybe a previous owner didn’t put it back?

    Doeke Zanstra - Réponse

    • Soulevez le capot par l'extrémité la plus proche de la plaque d'antenne.

    • Faites pivoter le capot en suivant la courbe de l'ouverture du boîtier et sortez-le du mini.

    This is wrong step. If you need remove this out, it would be better to pull out logic board, and remember to remove cables attached on it before pull out.

    Lin Adison - Réponse

    • Retirez les vis suivantes par lesquelles la plaque d'antenne est fixée au mini :

      • Deux vis Torx T8 6,6 mm.

      • Deux vis Torx T8 5 mm ou Hex 2 mm (les deux fonctionnent)

    The red circled screws are T9 in my Mac mini (not T8).

    Sven Harmstorf - Réponse

    ditto here - the 6.6 mm screws that anchor to the HD (now SSD) are T9

    Derek Shaw -

    I have tried several times but I have been unable to get all four holes to line up when replacing the antenna plate. I can get the two closer to the center of the mini just fine but no matter how I align the plate, one of the screws closer to the edge of the mini will be so far out of alignment that I cannot get the screw to go in. I had to leave one screw uninstalled. The plate is not distorted in any way. It is installed the same way it was before I removed, as far as I can tell. I am baffled! Has anyone been through this?

    GalvanicMacPro - Réponse

    Galvanic, it pops in.

    bkbkbk -

    I had a really hard time with this. I was able to resolve it though: secure the other three screws first. Then I pushed my precision screwdriver into the hole and levered the wayward tab into position: it wedged in with an audible snap sound! Then I was able to fasten the final screw.

    Aaron Vegh -

    I have trouble with this step every time I repair one of these minis. Aaron, your tip worked perfectly for me, thanks. -Anne

    DA IT Department -

    The antenna plate assembly is a tongue and groove type. The plate has a "groove" and the rim of the outer case is the "lip". You have to slide it in and align the parts ant it fits perfectly .

    jvilella -

    To solve this, just pick on the plate on the semi circle side and with the tool "open" just slighter the space where the semicircle have to fit

    Pedro -

    Had the same problem - the reason was the replacement drive I used - it is thinner than the original one. So I could not get the far side of the drive correctly into the holes for the notches mounted on the drive; that is - the drive was always a little bit too far to the center of the mac case. Everything works fine until you try to install all four screws.

    I found a simple solution: I attached some adhesive tape temporarily to the drive cover. By pulling on the tape while pushing the drive in its space the notches slipped into their holes. After this installing the antenna was no problem any more.

    Erwin Sommerauer -

    I had a similar problem with getting the antenna cover to fit back into place. I tried putting 3 screws back in and levering the 4th, but it did not work in my case. Finally, with three screws in place,, I carefully placed a thin pair of forceps into one of the holes in the cover and levered the entire cover upwards. That worked for me.

    Don - Réponse

    Pulling up on the cover worked for me too. I found that the best place to pull up on the cover is at about "true north" in the picture ... near the black dot used to indicate lid-is-closed. I did it before installing any screws and all four screws went in fine.

    Fred Cat -

    As others have noted, the hardest part of the whole process is getting the holes lined up in reassembly. I ended up stripping one of the short screws, but it fits well enough to engage the slots in the circular plastic cover. If you leave a short screw out, I don't know how the bottom cover would fit securely. I would carefully note how the antenna cover fits while you remove it. The longer screws go into the actual hard drive, so I think alignment of the hard drive is part of the problem.

    Steve Dollar - Réponse

    I had same problem..! U tried EVERTHING, and what worked PERFECT for me, and with very little effort is what "x10target" described here (scroll about half way down): Difficulty in re-installing Antenna Plate

    Mikey Marvel - Réponse

    To replace the antenna plate, you need to patiently align the sides of the antenna and slide it in. I had similar problems as described above but, instead of using force, I resorted to patience. The plate's fit is very snug, just a little bit off the straight line and it won't sit properly. And when it sits, it really sits tight, you don't even need to hold it in place while screwing the screws back in.

    Eric Schneider - Réponse

    In the “arch” of the plate is sort of a tongue & groove that fits over & under the lip of the body. I used Kelly Forceps to coax everything back together.

    tom - Réponse

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    • Soulevez légèrement la plaque d'antenne par le côté le plus proche de la RAM.

    • Avec précaution, tirez sur la plaque d'antenne pour la libérer de la monture circulaire du boîtier arrière.

    • Ne la retirez pas pour l'instant. Elle est toujours reliée à la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.

    When I tried to do step 9 and disconnect these connectors, I found that not only the cable/connector but the receptacle tore off the logic board -- momentary panic! This happened to both connectors.

    Left on the logic board were two tiny fragile gold pins (per connector). Fortunately they were pretty straight, and upon re-assembly, I was able to gently slot the receptacles back into the tiny pins. Upon reassembly, everything's working fine (no crazy fan noise) so I guess I got lucky...maybe VERY lucky. :)

    Thanks iFixIt for a fantastic guide. I've got a replacement drive in there and it's definitely going to extend the life of my Mini for another season.

    David Das - Réponse

    • À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur d'antenne pour le débrancher de la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.

    I broke the connector on the bluetooth board when trying to remove the antenna when I tried to replace the hard drive. Currently, the exact replacement bluetooth board 607-6509A is very hard to find or otherwise, expensive. Instead, I was able to use a cheap replacement that can be found on eBay: Apple Macbook Unibody A1342 Airport Bluetooth Module 607-6771A. There is a black plastic sheath at the back of the 607-6771A. Just cut out the part that cover the 2 holes, you are good to go.

    millicurie77 - Réponse

    Good info, thanks

    maccentric -

    Hmmm just broke the port as well; it is tricky and sticky even after the port came off …

    Choat - Réponse

    Thanks for the info; my port just broke here as well :( It is sticky and port connector is so fragile!

    Choat - Réponse

    it’s so painful ! almost all the time is spend to try to put this ridiculous connector. my last mini mac is a server, and use ethernet not the wifi so i gave up after 1 hour .

    admin - Réponse

    It would be nice if there was a close up pic of the different connectors. Then, one would know how the connectors attach. In this case, this connector is kinda like an old “F” plug. Used Kelly Forceps to pull straight up. Came off and went back on. No sweat.

    tom - Réponse

    • Retirez la plaque d'antenne du mini.

    When you replace the antenna plate, it can be tricky. The curved edge of it actually slots both over and under the edge of the case. If it doesn’t seem to fit properly, the edges of the cut perforations may be slightly squashed. Tweak them with a small screwdriver and it will suddenly seat properly.

    Ben G - Réponse

    • Retirez les trois vis suivantes :

      • Une vis Torx T8 5 mm ou Hex 2 mm (les deux fonctionneront).

      • Une vis Torx T6 16,2 mm.

      • Un standoff Torx T6 26 mm.

    In my case, the yellow circled standoff already came out with the previously removed fan.

    Sven Harmstorf - Réponse

    My standoff screw was really tight and my T6 stripped the screw. :( But, because it's effectively just used as a post to stabilise the fan, I ended up using some surgical clamps, grabbing the standoff where the rubber grommet sits, and gently twisted the screw loose. No major damage because that part of the screw isn't really used! Just be careful and gently twist (patience is KEY) to loosen.

    alc217 - Réponse

    • Avec précaution, tirez les fils des deux capteurs thermiques du disque dur vers le haut pour débrancher leurs connecteurs de leurs prises respectives sur la carte mère.

    The thermal sensor is VERY delicate, hold the connector down with a spudger and lift the cable with some tweezers. Long list of people online who have accidentally removed the connector from the logic board because the solder is insufficient.

    anthonypshaw - Réponse

    I second the comment about using something, say a small screwdriver, to carefully put some pressure on the connector whilst then prying the cable up.

    Simon Martin - Réponse

    Excellent advice - thanks. I used a small set of tweezers to gently lift up enough cable to hold onto, and then to hold the sockets onto the logic board whilst I pulled! Success!

    Mike Haines - Réponse

    Note: the clips lift straight up, although after they are removed, it appears that tiny "prongs" are in the remaining socket. What look like tiny prongs are just horizontal wires. To replace, push the clips straight down. I used metal picks (like fine bent ice picks - available at Harbor Freight) to get under the edge of the plastic clip and lift up. I pulled gently on the wires with tweezers as I pried up the clips, but I would not count on pulling alone to get the job done.

    Steve Dollar - Réponse

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur les connecteurs du disque dur et du lecteur optique pour les débrancher de leurs prises sur la carte mère.

    The removal of the SATA connectors for the hard drive and the optical drive should probably be separated into two steps. It's easy to miss the second one and pull a SATA connector off.

    Not confirming that I did it, but I am looking for someone to solder a SATA connector back on. ;)

    jrmn - Réponse

    • Pour débrancher le capteur thermique du lecteur optique, pincez ses câbles entre votre pouce et un spudger, puis faites levier avec le spudger pour soulever le connecteur et le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    These sensors are too fragile in some cases. In my case both the hard drive and optical sensor cables tore off despite all my best efforts. The plastic holding down the cables appears to be too fragile or brittle and simply tears as the cables are pulled away.

    nirv - Réponse

    Pulling the socket off the board seems to be a common problem. I am going to investigate making a tool to hold down the socket while prying up on the plug.

    For the time being I am using an app that controls the fan speed by sampling other sensors, such as the CPU heat sink.

    papa Hajek - Réponse

    There are two problems with these connectors. First off they're made of very thin plastic so break easily (something addressed in later Mac mini's). Second the socket melts to the connector making it impossible to lift it.

    If you do break it the metal tabs of the socket should we easily resoldered. Some practice beforehand, a fine tip solder iron, some leaded solder and your away.

    Brent - Réponse

    En mi caso perdi el sensor de la unidad optica y ahora el ventilador se mantiene acelerado y no se si para que vuelva a su velocidad normal habré de conseguir el sensor optico. (cuando hice las pruebas con el equipo abierto, mientras probaba otra unidad optica no me daba esa falla).

    Monserrat Bojorges Flores - Réponse

    • À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, soulevez le connecteur du capteur infrarouge pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

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    • Pour retirer la carte mère, vous devez insérer deux tiges cylindriques dans les orifices repérés en rouge. Attention ! Si vous insérez des instruments dans des orifices de la carte mère autres que ceux repérés en rouge, vous risquez de détruire la carte mère.

    • Insérez les tiges de l'outil dans les deux orifices repérés en rouge. Assurez-vous qu'elles sont en contact avec le boîtier extérieur au-dessous de la carte mère avant de continuer.

    • Avec précaution, tirez l'outil vers la carte d'E/S. L'ensemble carte mère et carte d'E/S doit glisser légèrement hors du boîtier extérieur.

    • Avec précaution, tirez l'outil vers la carte d'E/S. L'ensemble carte mère et carte d'E/S doit glisser légèrement hors du boîtier extérieur.

    • Arrêtez le mouvement de levier lorsque la carte d'E/S est clairement séparée du boîtier extérieur. Retirez l'outil de retrait de la carte mère du Mac mini.

    I had a couple of 3/32" drill bits in my tool chest. Worked perfectly (2.38 mm)

    Derek Shaw - Réponse

    • Poussez simultanément les deux clips en plastique aux extrémités gauche et droite de la carte d'E/S vers le milieu de la carte et tirez la carte hors du boîtier extérieur.

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    • Tirez l'ensemble carte d'E/S/carte mère hors du boîtier extérieur suffisamment pour accéder au connecteur d'alimentation.

    • À l'aide d'une pince, débranchez le câble d'alimentation de la carte mère.

    • Tirez le connecteur du câble d'alimentation vers l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

    Tweezers aren't strong enough. Use some small needle-nose pliers. Hold the I/O board and it pull away.

    Tyrone Steele - Réponse

    • Faites doucement glisser l'ensemble de la carte mère hors du mini, en faisant attention aux câbles qui peuvent se coincer.

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    • Retirez la vis Torx T6 7,9 mm par laquelle l'alimentation et le lecteur optique sont fixés au boîtier extérieur.

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    • Tirez la patte de fixation en métal argenté qui maintient le support de la prise d'entrée CA (AC-In) sur le côté du boîtier extérieur et sortez-la du mini.

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    • Faites pivoter le connecteur d'entrée CA de 90 degrés dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre.

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    • Faites glisser l'alimentation hors du mini, en faisant attention aux câbles qui peuvent se coincer.

    I had to wiggle the power cable to help remove the power supply.

    Simon Martin - Réponse

    The plastic tab with the 7.9 mm T6 Torx screw which secures the power supply has an internal lip which may get caught on the part underneath. Lift the tab to slide out the power supply.

    Ben Patterson - Réponse

    Thanks, Ben, for highlighting the little lip underneath the plastic tab! I was starting to get frustrated with the power supply!

    alc217 - Réponse

    When re-installing the power supply, double check the position of the plug before inserting back into the chassis. Keep in mind that you need to hold the plug in that earlier (90 deg counter clockwise) position as you slot it in, otherwise you'll have a heck of a time twisting the plug back properly.

    alc217 - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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