Introduction

L'ajout d'un second disque dur dans votre iMac présente de nombreux avantages : amélioration de la vitesse, espace de stockage supplémentaire et moins de soucis lors de l'installation de nouveaux logiciels. Utilisez ce guide pour en installer un en utilisant notre boîtier de disque dur pour baie optique.

  1. Desserrez les deux vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée à votre iMac.
    • Desserrez les deux vis Phillips par lesquelles la trappe d'accès est fixée à votre iMac.

    • Les deux vis restent captives dans la trappe d'accès.

    • Retirez la trappe d'accès.

    • Avant de commencer la réparation, débranchez l'ordinateur et appuyez sur le bouton d'alimentation environ 20-30 secondes pour décharger les composants internes.

    Swapping in a new CPU and an SSD took me about 10 hours. I did take a dinner break and spent another hour rooting around in my garage to find my thermal paste. Still, this procedure can take a long time.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

    Only a french translation proposal. We use to say “démontage” instead of “installation'“ in that specific case. ;-) (Dismantling)

    francis barbier - Réponse

  2. Retirez les vis suivantes le long du bord inférieur de votre iMac :
    • Retirez les vis suivantes le long du bord inférieur de votre iMac :

      • Trois vis Torx T8 6 mm

      • Une vis Torx T8 8 mm (côté droit de l'emplacement de la RAM sur le 2015)

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    • Réorientez votre iMac de manière à ce qu'il soit debout sur son support.

    • Insérez une carte plastique dans l'angle de la zone de ventilation, dans la partie supérieure du boîtier arrière.

    • Poussez la carte vers le haut de l'iMac pour déverrouiller le loquet du cadre avant.

    • Sortez le cadre avant du boîtier arrière.

    • Répétez l'opération pour l'autre côté du cadre avant.

    • Vous devrez peut-être appliquer plusieurs couches de ruban adhésif par-dessus la carte pour déverrouiller les loquets.

    • Si vous ne parvenez pas à déverrouiller l'écran avant, essayez de soulever légèrement le bord inférieur du cadre avant hors du boîtier arrière (la procédure est décrite en détail dans les étapes suivantes) et répétez l'opération de déverrouillage des loquets.

    I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

    ReneBruce - Réponse

    the photo of latch is no longer there at Photobucket

    rmshreffler -

    When you put this back together, make sure you place the bevel latches UNDER/INSIDE the case frame.

    robino - Réponse

    Citation de ReneBruce :

    I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

    Thanks, your picture helped me.

    robino - Réponse

    Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.

    Charlie - Réponse

    Good tip. I sort of did this out of desperation before reading this. Seem to work to get it apart. I'll have to see about getting it back together.

    David Sutherland -

    On the 24 inch model, there are no latches. Instead the front bezel has four tabs which slot into the rear case. It's very easy to remove.

    manfred - Réponse

    Wow, I really got stuck on the bezel. I tried a credit card, even a flexible metal scraper, nope nothing budged. I finally got going with help from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzuBW3mu7... which the guy has the machine lying on its back, then you can carefully bend the front bezel up until you see the latches, and I got the scraper in front of the screen and un-did the latches that way. Onto the next step!

    sleestack - Réponse

    Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.

    Matt Falcon - Réponse

    Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

    Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

    Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

    Zaphod - Réponse

    This was perfect! I wish the original instructions mentioned the magnets.

    I used magnets I pilfered from an old hard drive.

    veganmo -

    This is definitely the hardest part of this repair. I ended up doing what Charlie did and got it off after a lot of frustration.

    aseisman - Réponse

    The iMacs I've taken apart open simply with a magnet. I made a video to show exactly how the latch works inside. You do need a strong magnet like the hard drive internal magnet suggestion however they can be found in many places, just look for 'rare earth' or 'neodymium' and you'll find one. probably .3" cube would be big enough.

    http://youtu.be/yvq035edr-I

    there is the video that shows how the latch works. of course you may need TWO magnets to do both latches at the same time.

    awr - Réponse

    Save yourself some headache and get a magnet for this. I used these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PWMVSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Sometimes just one will do the job, other times I've had to use all 4 together.

    Much easier than trying to use a card.

    maccentric -

    sleestack is right on. The youtube vid is excellent for sliding the case right off without spudges and cards, etc. The vid's still there as of today, 9/30/2014. And the guy's foil removal is right on target, too. Very simple to replace the battery. I use this old 2006 computer with an old version of the PC program for Jobclock and only for that with Parallels 6 running the PC app. Don't want to upgrade or change anything at this point, going to milk it a couple more years. Got a nice big i5 for everything else. Oh, happy day.

    infoghost - Réponse

    Apple designed the latch to be released with a Magnet. That's it. That is the tool to be used.

    Avoid frustration, hassles, wasted time: simply buy a "neodimio" Magnet.

    Actually yes – IMHO It would have preferred iFixtit had mentioned a MAGNET to release the front Bezel, the credit card in an awkward and misleading (and not so smart) method.

    I hope iFixit will change Step 3.

    Giacomo Santerini - Réponse

    Be very careful here. One of the sides did not release using the plastic card. I tried to push it a bit but it would not give. It did work using 2 cards. What I did not realized until the very end, when I turned the imac back on, is that I broke the display. Thanks a lot ifixit. I get the hard drive back to work now but with a damaged display. And I can't even buy a replacement one from you.

    patmainville - Réponse

    Yes the screens in these machines are easy to break. I've opened these sorts of machines at least a 40 times. You do need to be very careful with the display. The won't take any pressure from a wayward thumb or finger etc. I have broken one once, trying to get a latch to give. You have to be very conscious not to out any fingers in the display at all.

    BUT, how you think this is anyone's but your own fault is beyond me. iFixit has no blame to take here.

    Please everyone, read through all instructions carefully and learn from others'.

    And to this poster, go buy one of these machines from eBay or find in one in hard rubbish to repair yours. These white iMacs are almost 10 years old now. And are scrap in most people's minds.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    • Posez l'iMac à l'envers sur une surface plane.

    • Pour soulever le cadre avant hors de l'iMac, effectuez les opérations suivantes simultanément :

      • À l'aide de vos pouces, enfoncez les clips de fixation de la RAM et maintenez l'iMac vers le bas.

      • À l'aide de vos index, soulevez le bord supérieur du cadre avant, situé au dessus des emplacements de la RAM.

      • Soulevez le cadre avant avec vos deux index.

    • Après avoir dégagé les clips de fixation de la RAM, soulevez le bord inférieur du cadre avant suffisamment pour libérer le bas du boîtier arrière.

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    • Soulevez le cadre avant hors du boîtier arrière et faites-le pivoter vers le haut en veillant à ne pas arracher les câbles de la caméra et du microphone qui sont toujours reliés à son bord supérieur.

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    • Si nécessaire, retirez le morceau de bande adhésive qui recouvre le connecteur du câble du microphone.

    • Le connecteur du microphone est situé sous le bord supérieur de l'iMac (face intérieure).

    i posted a note on the next page about disconnecting the microphone and camera cable. may help. reed it before disconnect.

    sebalancea - Réponse

    • Débranchez le câble du microphone.

    • Débranchez le câble vidéo en retirant le connecteur de la prise sur le support vidéo.

    • Le connecteur et la prise du câble vidéo sont fragiles et peuvent se plier facilement. Manipulez-les délicatement.

    there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

    sebalancea - Réponse

    Citation de sebalancea :

    there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

    I didn't even use the wall, I just carefully pivoted the frame backwards and laid it on the table without disconnecting the wires

    Bob - Réponse

    Be careful. My microphone and camera cables looked a little bit different from this. My camera cable connector did NOT plug directly into the camera board (and I almost tried pulling the cable out of the board), but rather there was a cable to cable connector that was stuffed behind the monitor. I had to skip this step until the monitor was out. I have an early 2006 20" iMac.

    avcaruso - Réponse

    My Mac had a different camera board and it didn't appear that the cables could be detached. Leaving them in place and propping up the back of the case worked for me.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

    I agree, no need to disconnect. I used a bunch of books (heavy books), to keep the monitor frame upright.

    osfanatic - Réponse

    • Décollez le blindage EMI inférieur du boîtier arrière.

    • Il suffit de le décoller sur trois côtés. Gardez-le attaché à l'écran.

    • Si vous déchirez le blindage EMI, recouvrez la déchirure à l'aide d'un morceau de ruban d'aluminium.

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    • Collez le blindage EMI sur la face avant de l'écran afin qu'il ne vous gêne pas.

    I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

    Bob - Réponse

    Citation de Bob :

    I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

    I agree, and tape doesn't stick to the screen (I tried and the tape came loose before I was done)

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 5 mm par lesquelles le câble de données de l'écran est fixé à la carte mère.

    • Tirez sur la languette d'extraction noire du connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le débrancher de la carte mère.

    This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

    Bob - Réponse

    Citation de Bob :

    This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

    Good idea, I just replaced this. $5 @ radioshack.

    sleestack - Réponse

    I found that disconnecting the display cable at the LCD end was easier. There are 2 v small clips either side of the ribbon cable, squeeze together and the cable disconnects from the panel.

    KazR - Réponse

    on this step I just forgot (there always something to forget!!) to connect back display data cable connector to the logic board, after I replaced the hard drive. Don't worry nothing happens. Hwen I switched on the iMac and it was just functioning alright and normal but I wasn't able see anything other than a black screen :)

    If you got a black screen but a normal white light on the right bottom corner, think abot the connector !

    joleisa - Réponse

    • Décollez le ruban adhésif EMI des deux bords verticaux de l'écran.

    • Lors du remontage, il est utile d'utiliser plusieurs petite bandes de ruban adhésif pour maintenir le blindage EMI sur les bords gauche et droite de l'écran de manière à ce qu'il ne vous gêne pas lorsque vous enfoncez l'écran dans le boîtier arrière de l'iMac.

    This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

    mindzeebeez - Réponse

    Citation de mindzeebeez :

    This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

    I found that using the plastic card to remove the cover worked well in lifting the EM tape from the screen. Also step 10 & 11 appear to be reversed since you can't get to the screws until you have lifted up the display (this can only occur once you have dealt with the EM shield)

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    Peeling back the tape was very time consuming. I bet the pros just cut it and patch with new metallic tape. This step was the worst.

    gordonhamachi - Réponse

    • Laissez le blindage EMI inférieur suspendu à l'écran.

    • Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 7,5 mm par lesquelles l'écran est fixé au boîtier arrière.

    • Les vis étant cruciformes, un tournevis fin magnétique facilitera leur retrait. La plupart des embouts de tournevis sont trop courts pour pouvoir atteindre ces vis.

    This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

    jrmn - Réponse

    Citation de jrmn :

    This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

    This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

    Daniel - Réponse

    Citation de Daniel :

    This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

    My mistake, it's actually a T-10, but the T-9 was the only one I could get to work due to the limited angle.

    Daniel - Réponse

    I believe this is where the $4.95 looong T-10 screwdriver shown in the recommended tools would have come in handy. We managed to make the driver from the 54 bit set work by holding the bit driver with a vice grip, which made it possible to get down in there. The various holders that came with the set were just a hair too thick.

    Justina Hayden -

    These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

    mindzeebeez - Réponse

    Citation de mindzeebeez :

    These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

    Try sticking the screw onto the driver with a tiny piece of blu-tac. Worked for me.

    Bob - Réponse

    I found it easiest to lie the computer on its back and rest all four screws in the display. Then all you have to do is lower the display slowly and evenly. The tricky part with this method is to make sure the EMI shield doesn't catch on the screws on the way down.

    Andrew - Réponse

    If your Torx screwdriver isn't magnetized, rub the tip 8-10 times on the magnet inside the white plastic cover (the one that holds the remote to the side of the monitor). Prestro... your Torx screwdriver is now magnetized!

    John Way - Réponse

    I used a strong wall magnet to magnetize my screwdriver. It worked perfectly! Your tip was very helpful and pointed me to an answer that worked for me.

    osfanatic -

    The lower left screw of the display can be sometimes reached directly from the corner rather through the hole.

    Bob - Réponse

    • Soulevez le bas de l'écran et faites-le pivoter vers le dessus de l'iMac.

    • Ne le soulevez pas trop, car les câbles inverter sont encore connectés.

    If you remove the inverter wires after dealing with the EM shield you can flip the display without detaching the LCD data cable. Use the foot of the iMac (with a towel to protect the display) to hold the display while you work inside.

    Wizbang FL - Réponse

    • Débranchez les deux câbles inverter de la carte inverter.

    • Ces connecteurs sont maintenus fermement dans leurs prises. Servez-vous de vos ongles ou de la pointe d'un spudger pour pousser les clips de chaque côté des connecteurs afin de les déloger de leurs prises. Une pince hémostatique peut également s'avérer très utile.

    The 17" model is nearly identical until this point. You will not have to disconnect on the 17" model for either Step 15 or Step 16.

    robino - Réponse

    Watch out when reconnecting the inverter cables - the little pins on the inverter board are very easily bent indeed when the plug isn’t put back totally straight. I happened to bend one on the lower edge, resulting in the display being only dimly lit in the lower half and requiring me to open the machine once more. Since I only flipped up the display unit (as in some of the comments on step 16) I could skip step 15 and never touched the inverter cables on the top edge of the inverter board.

    Hartmut Vodermaier - Réponse

    • Débranchez les deux câbles inverter sur le dessus de l'inverter en utilisant la méthode décrite à l'étape précédente.

    I would mark the top of the large inverter cable connectors somehow, with a marker or pencil. My connectors had writing on the bottom, not the top as pictured, and I bent the pins trying to reinsert it incorrectly since the top and bottom look similar. Nearly all the other connectors have an obvious top and bottom.

    Marko - Réponse

    Take pictures with iPhone of all tricky connectors and refer to them on reassembly:-)

    lamajr - Réponse

    • Faites pivoter l'écran jusqu'à ce qu'il soit presque perpendiculaire au boîtier arrière et soulevez-le pour retirer le blindage EMI collé sur le dessus.

    You don't need to peel off the display from the top. Just lean it toward a wall etc. in a perpendicular angle. If you don't move the mac while you perform the following steps, it won't flip or fall down. You can also save step 15 this way, as the wires are long enough to stay connected.

    Martin - Réponse

    Why peel it off? I just left it there in the perpendicular position leaning against the wall. Didn't annoy me at all when I changed the hard drive.

    alex, Jul 02 2012

    alexanderfaussner - Réponse

    I've seen a few people comment having found their Airport dead after hard drive swap. It's really easy to rip off the wire from Airport antenna (up there nearby the mic and camera, to the left from them). The wire goes through the holes of upside EMI shielding and raising the display too high while trying to peel the shielding off can yank the wire so it gets loose from the soldering.

    Tee - Réponse

    It looks like I'm late to the party but here goes anyway... I have Ubuntu Kylin installed on my iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and I want to use the iMac's display for my Linux install on that unit AND be able to switch the video going to the screen from my iMac to what's displayed on my Mac Mini. I think what I'm asking is how can I split the display so I can switch the video input to the video card from one machine to another.

    Frederick C - Réponse

    You do not have to disassemble the logic board! At this point, you have to disassemble the hard disk, unscrew the 4 screws and the big power connector. The second small cable, without disassembling the motherboard, is enough to make it pass sideways, pulling away with a bit of force on plastic and the beat sink. The small sponge gasket must be removed and then rested. 3 minutes in total from this point!

    gentissi - Réponse

    • Déconnectez le câble du capteur thermique du lecteur optique en débranchant son connecteur de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez le connecteur parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

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    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 3,6 mm par lesquelles le connecteur du câble-ruban du lecteur optique est fixé à la carte mère.

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    • À l'aide d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur du câble-ruban du lecteur optique pour le débrancher de la carte mère.

    • Il est plus facile de retirer le connecteur en exerçant un effet de levier en haut ou en bas du connecteur.

    • Repliez le câble-ruban du lecteur optique en arrière par rapport à la carte mère.

    • Faites attention lorsque vous déplacez le câble-ruban du lecteur optique : il est fragile et peut se déchirer facilement.

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    • Les ingénieurs d'Apple n'ont pas de grandes connaissances en matière de déflexion et de rigidité des matériaux ; par conséquent, ce lecteur optique est particulièrement difficile à retirer parce que le support est trop flexible. Les étapes suivantes exigent de la patience et une certaine force.

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'interstice entre le connecteur optique et son support jusqu'à ce qu'il soit en contact avec le châssis.

    • Saisissez le spudger le plus près possible de la surface du lecteur optique, puis appuyez sur le loquet de déverrouillage avec le pouce tout en tirant vers vous.

    • La forme cunéiforme du spudger pourrait le faire glisser hors de l'interstice dans votre direction. Veillez à enfoncer le spudger vers le boîtier arrière tout en appuyant sur le loquet de déverrouillage.

    Just take out the rear screw by the latch near the logic board, then concentrate on releasing the latch on the other side by the method shown in the pic,when you have relased that side of the drive hold the drive up enough so that you can release lower latch with a long bladed thin screwdriver by going under the drive and pushing downwards on the latch leg to release it and pulling up gently on the drive,works like a charm !

    Supadupa - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 6 mm placées sur le côté du lecteur optique.

    • Nous vous recommandons de poser l'iMac à plat sur une table avant de retirer ces vis pour qu'elles ne tombent pas derrière la carte mère.

    It seems that you can wait to remove these two screws until step 29, since you release the optical drive from the chassis with the plastic

    fabiendaguerre - Réponse

    Agreed, no need to do this step with the drive in the computer since you're taking it out. Reduces the chance of dropping a screw inside and having to remove it.

    maccentric -

    • Accédez à l'arrière du châssis et, à l'aide d'un doigt, déclipsez le loquet du lecteur optique du châssis.

    The pictures and description on this step need help. What it's trying to tell you is to undo the clip like the one in step 20, this time do the side near the fan.

    maccentric - Réponse

    • Sortez le lecteur optique du boîtier arrière en veillant à ne pas arracher les deux broches en plastique moulées dans le boîtier arrière, près de l'extrémité du lecteur optique.

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    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 par lesquelles le câble du lecteur optique est fixé au lecteur.

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    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger dans l'interstice entre le connecteur du câble du lecteur optique et le lecteur optique.

    • Faites tourner le spudger pour séparer le connecteur du lecteur optique.

    • Répétez l'opération des deux côtés du connecteur.

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    • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du lecteur optique de celui-ci.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, retirez le petit morceau de mousse EMI collé en dessous du lecteur optique.

    • N'oubliez pas de le réutiliser pour le nouveau lecteur.

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    • Retirez la longue bande de mousse EMI du dessous du lecteur optique.

    • N'oubliez pas de la réinstaller sur le nouveau lecteur.

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    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 placées sur le côté du lecteur optique.

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    • Avec la pointe d'un spudger, appuyez sur les deux pattes du support du lecteur optique pour les dégager des logements prévus à cet effet sur le dessus du lecteur optique.

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    • Avec la pointe d'un spudger, appuyez sur la patte du support du lecteur optique pour la dégager du logement prévu à cet effet sur le côté du lecteur optique.

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    • Avec la pointe d'un spudger, appuyez sur les pattes du support du lecteur optique pour les dégager des logements prévus à cet effet sur le dessus du lecteur optique.

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    • Tirez sur le support du lecteur optique jusqu'à son extrémité pour le séparer du lecteur.

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    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le capteur thermique pour le décoller de la bande adhésive par laquelle il est maintenu sur le lecteur optique.

    • N'oubliez pas de la réinstaller sur le nouveau lecteur.

    • Si un disque ou un autre objet est coincé dans votre lecteur optique, nous avons un guide pour le réparer.

    For the thermal sensor, look at the comments about the hard drive replacement (there's also a thermal sensor on it) :Thermal sensors comments

    by Wizbang FL Feb 28 @ 7:08 PM

    When removing the sensor be careful to get underneath the adhesive (IE: keep as much adhesive on the sensor) It allowed me to just stick the sensor to the new hard drive (clean the new drive area with alcohol and allow to dry to promote adhesion) Don't get the sensor dirty

    fabiendaguerre - Réponse

    • Retirez les trois vis Phillips n°0 3 mm du boîtier de la baie optique.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin - Réponse

    plug in the back of the ssd

    Roman Quenin -

    I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    However I have NOT confirmed this.

    Allen Borza -

    If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

    EkDor - Réponse

    I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

    Cristian Pizarro - Réponse

    The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

    benja.mcg - Réponse

    • En commençant par le côté gauche, ouvrez doucement le boîtier de la baie optique.

    • Continuez de tirer sur les deux moitiés du boîtier jusqu'à ce qu'elles se séparent.

    This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

    Cristian Pizarro - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips n°0 3,0 mm par lesquelles la façade est fixée sur le boîtier de la baie optique.

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    • Soulevez la façade en plastique noir hors du boîtier de la baie optique.

      • Vous n'aurez plus besoin de la façade ni des deux vis Phillips qui la maintiennent en place. Mettez ces deux pièces de côté si vous souhaitez réinstaller la façade dans le boîtier.

    • Remontez le boîtier de la baie optique sans la façade, en réutilisant les trois vis Phillips 3,0 mm d'origine afin de ne pas l'endommager.

    Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

    Nic Johnson - Réponse

    Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

    Jeff Dickson -

    So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

    For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

    Ron Lockhart - Réponse

    Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

    olafgoy -

    My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

    Kevo -

    Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

    Monkeyrebirth -

    I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

    nickmalmquist -

    Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

    EkDor - Réponse

    I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

    Keith Mewis - Réponse

    Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

    Alex -

    Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

    Walter Poole -

    I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

    The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

    Marc - Réponse

    • Libérez la cale en plastique du boîtier de disque dur pour baie optique en appuyant sur l'un des clips présents à chaque extrémité et sortez-la du boîtier.

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    • Assurez-vous que les connecteurs du disque dur sont orientés vers le bas avant de placer ce dernier dans le boîtier.

    • Insérez doucement le disque dur dans le boîtier à l'emplacement approprié.

    • Tout en tenant fermement le boîtier en place d'une main, appuyez sur le disque dur avec l'autre main pour le raccorder aux connecteurs du boîtier.

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    • Une fois le disque dur en place, réinsérez la cale en plastique tout en maintenant le disque dur contre le bas du boîtier.

    • Rebranchez les câbles que vous avez retirés du lecteur optique d'origine sur le boîtier de la baie optique.

    Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

    Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

    nickmalmquist - Réponse

    Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

    Erik Sawaya - Réponse

    It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

    The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

    Graziano Nora - Réponse

    Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate  from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

    Peter Bull - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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