Introduction
Ce tutoriel vous montrera comment démonter de manière sécurisée une souris Logitech G02 Hero pour se préparer à remplacer des composants internes de la souris, en vue d'une réparation ou d'un reconditionnement.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Pour qu'il ne nous gêne pas, enroulez le câble USB dans le scratch intégré.
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Retirez le couvercle des poids du dessous de la souris en le soulevant près du pied de la souris.
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Avec un pistolet à air chaud (réglé sur "faible"), chauffez les trois pieds de la souris pendant quelques secondes chacune.
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Faites glisser un médiator sous les pieds et l'adhésif qui se trouve dessous.
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Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes qui maintiennent ensemble les deux parties de la souris.
the top screw is actually more to the right and wrongly marked in the picture
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Avec le bout plat d'une spatule en plastique, soulevez délicatement les deux côtés du verrou qui maintient la nappe.
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Retirez la carte secondaire en la tirant directement pour accéder au connecteur de la nappe.
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Avec la même technique que pour le connecteur de la nappe du capteur Hero, ouvrez le verrou de la nappe.
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Retirez la nappe avec la carte secondaire.
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L'assemblage de la roulette est maintenu par une barre de maintien, qu'il faudra retirer.
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Avec le bout pointu de votre spatule en plastique, poussez la barre de maintien depuis le côté droit.
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Une fois que c'est fait, vous pouvez retirer la barre de maintien.
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Retirez l'assemblage de la roulette de la souris.
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Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes près du devant de la souris.
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Retirez la vis cruciforme près de la prise de la nappe du capteur Hero.
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Le support de l'assemblage de la roulette peut maintenant être retiré.
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Avec le bout plat d'une spatule en plastique, déconnectez la prise du câble USB de la carte mère en poussant l'extrémité mâle de la prise.
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Une fois qu'il y a un trou suffisamment large, le bout pointu de la spatule peut être utilisé pour déconnecter complètement la prise.
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Retirez la carte principale de la coque inférieure de la souris.
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Une fois la carte mère retirée, on peut voir le capteur Hero.
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Retirez les deux vis cruciformes qui maintiennent la carte du capteur Hero.
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Avec des pincettes, retirez soigneusement les deux entretoises en nylon.
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Retirez la carte du capteur Hero.
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Commencez par retirer la pièce en plastique transparent au-dessus du dispositif anti-tension.
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Une fois cette pièce enlevée, le câble peut être retiré de la coque inférieure au niveau dispositif anti-tension.
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Tous les composants internes
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Vis cruciformes
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Ressorts de la roulette
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Entretoises en nylon du capteur Hero
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Nappes pour carte secondaire et carte du capteur Hero
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Assemblage de la roulette
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Support et barre de maintien de l'assemblage de la roulette
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Remplacez les pièces nécessaires puis suivez ces instruction dans l'ordre inverse.
Remplacez les pièces nécessaires puis suivez ces instruction dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
49 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
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30 commentaires
What’s that button near at the spring on top. Is that a middle mouse button? (yellow button thing at the middle at the top)
You are correct, that is the middle mouse button
spslizer -
What’s a good replacement switch for the 2 main left/right buttons? They say OMRON 3159C21 D2FC-F-K
That’s a good switch to replace them with
Me personally, I like to pull the switches off of other mice, like those rebranded Logitech ones that are bundled with some computers
The G502 is easy enough to pull apart and put back together that I don't mind replacing the switches on occasion
spslizer -
Oh shoot, you have to do soldering to replace switches? Those black boxes? Yikes, may be something I dont want to mess with if so. If I can just figure out how to clean them I will try that, but if I have to replace them with soldering, I am doomed lol
@spslizer sorry I wasn’t clearer before: the switches that are on the primary/secondary buttons are the OMRON D2FC-F-K and the primary switch has failed. I’m replacing them both with Kailh GM 8.0 switches since they seemed to have a good reputation.
I definitely need to study desoldering more though, I am having a lot of trouble removing the bad switches!!
I find that the easiest way to desolder them is to heat up the existing solder, add more new solder, then use a desolder vacuum pump as close as you can to the pin while your iron is still there. If there's still a small residual amount “tacking” it on, heat up the pad around the hole and then wiggle the switch around
It helps to have a helping hands station and a pair of tweezers or hemostats to hold the switch, as the switch and pads will get hot
spslizer -
Hi! I was just wondering if you knew the dimensions of the screw! I lost one when I took it apart and now my right click is a little bit wonky. Thanks!
Hi Sophie. I unfortunately cannot find the shell and screws of one of these mice.
I would recommend trying one of the shell screws from one of the bottom holes and put it in the hole under the right click or the front hole, depending on which is missing
The microswitch may also be on its way out; a “bounce” click when you click and hold is a good indication of this
spslizer -
Disregard the first part of my comment. I have the measurements from the shell screws
On mine they are M2x10.25mm screws. The head looks to be about 3.25mm wide
spslizer -
Can you plz let me know the dimensions of yellow button (middle click button)? Thanks.
From my measurements with a non-digital caliper, it is approximately 9.5mm square, with a height of approximately 1mm
If measuring from the outside where the component is indented for the contacts, it is about 8.5mm. The button looks almost like a very stubby “+” symbol. I hope this information helps!
spslizer -
It's 4 x 4 x 0.8mm. I had to replace the middle click button of my Proteus Spectrum (also a G502 model, much earlier than the hero)
Gracias! pude cambiar los botones de mouse sin problema
Super Anleitung! Habe mit der Anleitung meine Maus schnell zerlegen und die neuen Ersatzteile einbauen können.
Die Ersatzteile habe ich von:
My left mouse button stopped functioning properly and I saw a solution for anotheer mouse that said open it up, get to the button sensor (not sure the exact name, and clean off some build up, like is it oxidation? I need to look it up again. But basically, it affects the sensor so that the button wont accept to be held down. You press the button down but it acts like a normal button click.
So now I need to find the sensor and clean it, or replace it. Because the mouse is useless without a good left mouse button.
I see the housing for the sensor (i assume those black boxes under each button. I just need to safely open it up and clean inside.
You are correct, the rectagular boxes are the microswitches. It doesn't surprise me that oxidation or even just dust and skin oils could lead to these buttons not working. I've always just replaced the microswitches entirely if they fail or go on the fritz; assuming the the microswitch can be opened up, cleaned, and put it back together, then I don't see why not give it a try
spslizer -
It wont let me reply to you directly for some reason even though I can anybody else, but I am trying to figure out how to open the box up now.
That said, I dont mind changing it out, except I need to know how to safely remove the box. They dont have instructions on that part. Hopefully I can find a video about this online for a mouse with a similar set up.
Thank you for the disassembly walk-through. I just replaced the right mouse button with an OMRON D2FC-F-7N and it is a little more firm and makes a little more click. I also had some D2FC-F-K on order but I was impatient.
Hello, do I need to buy new rubber feet for the mouse or is it possible to reuse the ones I removed? How should i place them back? I don't wanna glue them down because maybe I will need to open it again in the future.
You should buy new feet/skates just in case. It's easy to mess up the removal. I heated them up and still destroyed one. The bigger rubber skate at the front separated from the glue and was no longer reusable. The rest came off pretty easily.
Thanks for the guide. I had the mouse 1 actuator on two of these mice become dodgy for the mouse 1 hold. Was fine for single clicks.
Used isopropyl alcohol and an air blaster to clean the case properly and all is good. It's amazing how little dirt it takes to impede the click, can really feel the difference
My first Logitech mouse that I bought in the early 2000s lasted almost a decade. I'm on my fourth Hero, thanks to this guide I no longer have to repurchase these mice. I can just fix them now myself but I sure do wish they made them quality like how they did before.
The guide doesn't say how to remove the wheel from the cradle. It's a bit of a PITA but I managed it with the tweezers.
To remove the wheel from the cradle, you have to remove a small screw underneath, pull the cradle off, then pull the retaining pin for the metal bit that sticks inside the wheel away from the transparent plastic assembly that contains the wheel. To get the wheel out, what I did was push the tweezers in as if to grab the wheel itself. You have to push them in pretty deep. The tips of the tweezers should be positioned underneath the middle section of the wheel where the wheel clips in. The tweezers thickness will spread the plastic, then you just pull the wheel out.
It was pretty hard for me as an amateur. There's a risk that the plastic could break, but I managed to get it out safely.
I took a photo for reference when I started assembling it back.
https://i.imgur.com/louqoU9.jpg
Note that the metal pin can be pulled out entirely. Be careful not to lose it though. I only pulled mine enough to get it out of the wheel. It's not necessary to remove it completely.
For me personally (the latching of) the scroll wheel feels a bit awkward (too right or too loose, I am not sure?) Sometimes when scrolling with too light touch on the wheel it scrolls forward but then pops back a notch when letting go and other times when I only want to scroll one line it scrolls more than one line too easy. Looking at the pictures (spring loaded metal bar pressing against notches on the inside of the wheel) it seems there is no easy fix for this? Anyone who has had this mouse open, do you think it would be possible to change the tension of the spring to make the scroll-latching more/less resistive? Or maybe even reshape (deepen/steepen?) the notches on the inside of the wheel.... Can't really tell from the pictures what the best options would be - or buy different mouse :)
I just want to be able to clean out all the gunk and grease making my mouse buttons stick.
In the future, I'll make it a point to pass on the pretty, ergonomic design that makes this unnecessarily complicated in favor of a design that makes it a quick and simple process.
Believe it or not, for some of us, function > form.
True talent is delivering on both.
This is a great first half of the disassembly, but does not seem to cover any of the shell/button disassembly. See https://imgur.com/gallery/Et5fIJk for photos and instructions on that. Feel free to add the photos to this post.
