Introduction
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour changer votre batterie MacBook Air 11" début 2015.
Remarque : S'il y a un film plastique fin sur votre batterie de remplacement, n'essayez pas de le retirer. Il est collé et protège la batterie lorsqu'elle se trouve à l'intérieur du MacBook.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes :
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Deux vis pentalobes 8 mm 5-points
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Huit vis pentalobes 2.5 mm 5-points
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour faire levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur de la batterie afin de le déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Repliez légèrement la nappe de la batterie pour l'éloigner de la carte mère pour éviter que le connecteur ne se rabatte accidentellement et n'entre en contact avec sa prise.
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Retirez les cinq vis suivantes fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur :
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deux vis Torx T5 de 5,2 mm
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une vis Torx T5 de 6 mm
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deux vis Torx de 2,6 mm
Be carful with the torque when reassembling, these screws seem able to go a little too far and crack through the plastic of the battery.
To elaborate on Daniel’s comment, particularly the middle 6mm screw seems to have a lot of range and can be over-tightened. I stopped and backed it off a little when it appeared to be deforming the cell to the left.
After replacing the battery (IF108-063-2) I found the trackpad click pressure to be noticeably higher. The plastic frame on the replacement bowed out some just above the logos below the center cells, pressing on the trackpad once the lower case was reattached. I used some gentle heat from a hot air gun (I used about 150º C) to soften the plastic and bend it back down. This reduced the pressure on the trackpad.
I'm having the same issue. I got the -2 instead of -1 battery also for some reason. iFixit is this advised??
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Soulevez la batterie par les bords près de la carte mère puis retirez la du boîtier supérieur.
The instructions that come with the BRTONG replacement battery state the following:
1) Discharge it to 2% (quite specific) and then charge to 100% at the first cycle after purchasing
2) Do not discharge the battery pack to 0% as that will damage the battery pack and shorten its life (this does not specify WHEN not to do it. Only during the first cycle?)
This is very different from the ifixit instructions above , but ifixit could be referring just to the calibration, which could be done AFTER the first cycle, and the manufacturer could be referring just to the first cycle, and not to the calibration. I am not sure what to do. But I guess I will follow the manufacturer instructions during the first (and second, to be safe) cycles, and THEN follow the ifixit instructions for calibration.
Discharging the battery all the way to zero does shorten the battery life slightly, but it’s necessary for a proper calibration. Without calibration, the 2% reading is kind of meaningless, since the system can’t get an accurate % reading until after calibration (that’s the whole point of calibration). I’d follow the iFixit instructions (which are also Apple’s instructions) and ignore whatever that battery vendor sent you. You can find more background on calibration here.
What do I do with the old battery?
Good question! Please take the old battery to an e-waste facility.
Does it matter what OS is running on the computer during battery calibration? (my laptop is dual boot Linux and MacOS)
I’m putting in the new battery on a MacBook Air 11’ 2015 and the new battery has a black foam piece on top of the connector that seems to be glued on. Do I remove that?
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
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25 commentaires
No muss. No fuss. Thanks
How many hours can I expect iFixit’s replacement battery to last? [for the 2015 MacBook Air 11”]
Hello. I bought your replacement battery and replacing was easy but I had to do it a second time because the new battery seems thicker and affected the trackpad operation. I’ve tried a second time and it looks like the trackpad is lifting on the right hand side and it doesn’t click properly. Any idea whether this is something I can sort out?
Thanks
@carlyleroad It should not be any thicker and should not affect trackpad operation at all if installed correctly. Double check to make sure you ordered the right part for your specific model. If you think you received a defective part, contact iFixit customer support and they can help sort things out. Good luck!
Hi I had the same issue. I first thought the battery was the problem but you can easly adjust the trackpad with the screw below the trackpad. Here are the pictures - it is the screw in step 10 (https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/MacBook+...) I played a little bit around how much to tighten / loosen it but in the end it is now working perfectly!
Installation went great, but even though I did not adjust anything related to my trackpad it now is slightly popped up and rattles and makes a tapping noise when I touch it (prior to installing the new battery there was no movement or sound). What can I do to fix this?
Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
Hi I had the same issue. I first thought the battery was the problem but you can easly adjust the trackpad with the screw below the trackpad. Here are the pictures - it is the screw in step 10 (https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/MacBook+...) I played a little bit around how much to tighten / loosen it but in the end it is now working perfectly!
David, that’s exactly what happened to me. It’s because the iFixit replacement is too thick so it pushes the mousepad up. I ended up having to junk the iFixit battery and buy a different one from Amazon. After that, all was normal again. I think iFixit have a bad supplier but as there are only a few sold then the issue isn’t being resolved. Andrew A (see previous review)
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for bringing this issue up! I will investigate into this issue.
Fortunately, it looks like this situation is a rare exception rather than widespread occurrence. If you encounter something like this in the future with any of your iFixit purchases, please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
Hi I had the same issue. I first thought the battery was the problem but you can easly adjust the trackpad with the screw below the trackpad. Here are the pictures - it is the screw in step 10 (https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/MacBook+...) I played a little bit around how much to tighten / loosen it but in the end it is now working perfectly!
I feel like there should be some clarity about the thin plastic film you are not to remove. Is it if it just on the battery blocks, or the thin film that covers the whole battery that is easily removable?
Impressive good manual! No issues, no experience…no problem — and: It works! ✌?Thank you!
After installing and calibrating the computer don’t turn on, any ideas?
Very straightforward.
A good clear guide with helpful photos.
I am considering this as my daughters 2015 MacBook Air 11 inch is only lasting close to 4 hours. I know using chrome uses more battery as well but it is what she has to uses for her classes. She mainly takes notes while being in the class online. Her battery is still showing condition as normal and 766 cycle count. What can I expect the battery life to be after replacing the battery?
There isn’t a “table” for time duration, but the battery needs to be replaced. I think that the time could double
Do you REALLY need another RAVING review! Clearly not but I need to write one: Can't thank you enough, but since the ultimate vote is with our dollars, I immediately ordered a new battery from your store. You have saved me hundreds of dollars over the years and taken the mystery out of de-worming these apples! Sainthood awaits thee.
This battery initially seemed promising, but I've encountered a significant issue. After just a few weeks of use, it randomly shuts down despite showing a high charge level. It's incredibly frustrating and disruptive to my work. I was so happy with it at first, but now it's become unreliable. Hoping the company can look into this and perhaps offer a solution.
Hey Adam, have you reset your PRAM and SMC?
https://eshop.macsales.com/blog/80731-ho...
Macs can sometimes trick themselves into thinking all manner of things.
Andrew
When you say:
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.
Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?
Nerdily yours,
Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)
larryleveen - Réponse
The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).
Michael Welham -
I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.
Allen - Réponse
The magnetic mat is
GERARD SZAREK -
Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.
Frank O'Carroll - Réponse
A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.
Michael Mee - Réponse
Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!
Lilljedahl -
I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.
It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.
I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?
AMG - Réponse
The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)
Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.
Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372
Hope this helps! -Dan
danielwen -
I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?
Robert Hermans - Réponse
Hi Robert!
Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!
Arthur Shi -
Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy
vensilver - Réponse
Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.
Arthur Shi -
The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.
Rachel Slatkin - Réponse