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Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011

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  1. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011, Boîtier inférieur: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Avant de commencer, éteignez votre MacBook. Fermez l'écran et posez-le à l'envers sur une surface souple.

    • Utilisez un tournevis P5 Pentalobe pour retirer les dix vis qui fixent le boîtier inférieur, dont les dimensions sont les suivantes :

    • Deux vis de 9 mm

    • Huit vis de 2,6 mm

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Réponse

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Réponse

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Réponse

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Réponse

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Réponse

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Réponse

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Réponse

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Réponse

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Réponse

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Réponse

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Réponse

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Réponse

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Réponse

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Réponse

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Réponse

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Réponse

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Réponse

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Réponse

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Réponse

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Réponse

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Réponse

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Réponse

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Réponse

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Réponse

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Réponse

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - Réponse

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen - Réponse

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella - Réponse

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh - Réponse

  2. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.

    • Enlevez la partie inférieure et mettez-la de côté.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Réponse

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Réponse

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Réponse

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke - Réponse

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Réponse

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Réponse

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - Réponse

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson - Réponse

  3. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011, Connecteur de batterie: étape 3, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011, Connecteur de batterie: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • Afin d'éviter un choc ou une décharge accidentelle, prenez la précaution de déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère.

    • Saisissez la languette en plastique transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie, et tirez-la vers l'avant du MacBook Air pour déconnecter la batterie de la carte mère.

    • Veillez à tirer le connecteur verticalement vers la batterie, et non pas vers le haut. Vous risqueriez d'endommager la prise sur la carte mère.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Réponse

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - Réponse

    I don’t see my socket on logic board, how can I fix it

    QUYNH PHAM - Réponse

  4. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011, Nappe de la carte E/S (I/O Board): étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Réponse

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 - Réponse

    This is ridiculous.

    From this point, skip ahead to step 18. There is no need to perform steps five through 17.

    AnnoniMoose - Réponse

    I am glad I saw your comment. This saved me a lot of time and allowed me to miss many points of failure. thanks.

    norsk4sure -

  5. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Décollez soigneusement la nappe de la carte E/S du haut du ventilateur.

  6. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 6, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    • Le connecteur suivant a une prise particulièrement profonde. Faites attention en le déconnectant.

    • Pendant que vous soulevez doucement la nappe de la carte E/S en prenant prise près de la connexion à la carte mère, faites levier avec la pointe d'une spatule sur les côtés du connecteur pour l'aider à "sortir" de sa prise.

    • Retirez la nappe de la carte E/S.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Réponse

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Réponse

  7. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011, Ventilateur: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez soigneusement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Réponse

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Réponse

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Réponse

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Réponse

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Réponse

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended - Réponse

    after putting the cable back in the fan is very loud, can someone help?

    Ramon majem - Réponse

    Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap plastic bounced when I was reassembling the I/O board ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. Same connector, be careful. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!

    Berkin Birol - Réponse

    Quick note, when u install the new fan, i inserted the ribbon cable back in the zif socket first with a pair of tweezers then screw the fan back in.

    robdroby - Réponse

    I see comments suggesting not to remove the ribbon cable. This would work. Simply flip the fan like the page of a book, from right to left, thereby getting it out of the way while you remove the i/o board. Flip it from left to right when you reinstall. This approach would save some frustration, as it is a challenge to reinsert that tiny ribbon into position.

    If you do remove the ribbon, reinsert it before repositioning the fan. That will give you more play as to fiddle with the ribbon.

    Mark - Réponse

  8. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 8, image 1 de 1
    • Décollez le joint en caoutchouc de la bande adhésive sur le haut du ventilateur.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Réponse

    Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer

    Erin Kaspar-Frett - Réponse

    Should I put some adhesive back when reasembling?

    Marco - Réponse

  9. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm à courte tête

    When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.

    Curtis Kline - Réponse

    I just replaced the the i/o board and it went fine, but I think I broke the screw holder on the top left side of the fan, and now can get the screw out - the computer still runs - i was wonder can I get a way with that one screw not holding it down?

    ilarkin1 - Réponse

    Same here. The screw socket was broken for the 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw. Is there a way to re-solder the socket? Or support the fan. It’s making a horrible noise now :(

    Jason - Réponse

  10. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Ôtez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur en débranchant soigneusement la nappe du ventilateur de sa prise.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Réponse

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Réponse

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Réponse

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Réponse

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Réponse

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Réponse

    So I did the replacement according to this guide, with a replacement fan purchased from iFixit, and the fan would not spin even under heavy load! I took out the fan, and noticed that there was quite a lot of resistance when I spun the blades manually. It turns out, the fan was slightly squashed flat near the vent so that the resulting friction prevented the blades from spinning free. I un-squashed the fan, re-installed it, and the fan is spinning! The moral of the story is to make sure the blades can spin free when installing a new fan.

    Hiroshi - Réponse

    On reassembly, I found it hard to reinsert this ribbon cable, so did step 11 again. I disconnected the I/O board, connected the fan and snapped the retainer down on the ribbon cable, then undid step 11 (ie. I connected the I/O board again). As others have said, a brilliant step-by-step guide, and slloeing comments is a great idea too.

    Jim Henderson - Réponse

    nice! Congrats!

    Luis -

  11. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011, Carte E/S (I/O Board): étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Déconnectez la carte E/S en débranchant la nappe d'alimentation de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère, vers le côté droit de l'Air.

  12. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Tirez sur la nappe de la caméra parallèlement à la surface de la carte E/S, vers le coin de l'Air pour le débrancher de sa prise, en vous aidant de la pointe d'une spatule pour pousser le connecteur hors de sa prise.

    • Ne tirez pas la nappe vers le haut pendant que vous la débranchez. La prise risque de casser et de se détacher de la carte mère.

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - Réponse

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - Réponse

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

  13. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 13, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 13, image 2 de 2
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du haut-parleur gauche pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    • Faites levier sous les fils.

    • Enlevez la nappe du haut-parleur gauche de son dispositif d'attache sur la carte E/S.

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - Réponse

    I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

    also generally before trying anything scary double click the picture & zoom in so you can see better what you’re dealing with. Or even get your phone magnifier to zoom in on to your tricky parts.

    nijafe - Réponse

  14. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du microphone gauche pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    • Faites levier sous les fils.

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - Réponse

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

    Lorenzo

    Lorenzo Cangiano - Réponse

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - Réponse

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - Réponse

    I find it very helpful that you give directions on where to pry, and how to address each connection. I’m always hesitant for fear of snapping something off, so I appreciate this detail. Thanks.

    Adam Goldstein - Réponse

    I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

    nijafe - Réponse

  15. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm fixant la carte E/S au boîtier supérieur.

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - Réponse

    I have done this repair without the steps laid out above. The I/O board does not need to come out. Just be careful when de-routing the wires attached to the display and you should be fine. I was able to skip steps 11-21 and go straight to step 22 without issue.

    Kevin Ginther - Réponse

  16. Remplacement de la carte E/S du MacBook Air 13" mi-2011: étape 16, image 1 de 1
    • Soulevez délicatement la carte E/S par son côté le plus proche de la carte mère et ôtez-la du boitier supérieur.

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - Réponse

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - Réponse

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23 commentaires

just replaced i/o board,quick and easy,great guide

railroads12345 - Réponse

My I/O board USB socket was dead with a bent pin. Replaced it following this guide, everything went perfectly, and I've got working USB again.

Diagnosis procedure: shine a flashlight into your suspect USB socket. If you can see a pin against the back of the socket, there's your problem.

ephraim - Réponse

so easy ,tks ifixit

jbejarano79 - Réponse

Step 15: had I read all the comments, I would have avoided breaking the microphone connector (thank you Lorenzo Cangiano all the same!). But the guide should have a red exclamation point warning about not prying on the front of this connector when it doesn't respond easily to prying under the cables. It is not obvious that one should not be able to pry on all sides, and the guide only has an "Information" note for this.

jsheats - Réponse

Just followed this guide to replace a burnt out/corroded power socket. I bought the part from this site. Now the power is fixed, but the USB socket does not seem to mount anything, as in it doesn't work. I have not tested the headphone port. An interesting observation: the first time I turned my macbook back on using battery power it said battery not available. I turned it off and on again and this resolved the issue.

Does anyone have any ideas about the USB port not working? Have I bought a faulty I/O board from IFixit?

Emmanuel Malikides - Réponse

Today repaired my MacBook Air mid 2011. The charger and USB is working fine but my MacBook Air says their is no audio hardware. So I have no audio input or output from my MacBook Air it self anymore. Even if I plug in my airpods nothing happens. Airplay and bluetooth audio works fine.

I checked the installation of the I/O board and it is installed in the right way. After that I did a Safe mode boot, PRAM reset, SMC reset, a new OS instal and a complete disk repair. Nothing seems to help. So, the only left possibility is a hardware failure of the I/O board?

isellis - Réponse

Did you buy the board from ifixit? I have the same issue regarding audio (no audio device found), in addition to the usb port not working.

Emmanuel Malikides - Réponse

Hello guys! My MBAir doesn't charge anymore. I replaced the charger and it only lasted a while before stopping again to charge.

I want to replace the MagSafe module, buying it from the site, but I need to be sure that the other components (USB and mic) ar going to work fine.

Can anyone who bought the same part from here confirm anything is going to be fine? I read some comments that didn't convince me.

Waiting for your feedbacks, thank you very much for any help.

Alfredo De Santis - Réponse

If any one could tell me If this part "I/O Board" is new or in used condtion ???

irfan yousaf - Réponse

Used. There is no "new" part to sell in any site. Maybe just Apple has new parts to sell (for a expensive price, of course).

Alexandre Formagio - Réponse

I had the same "no audio" (mic) issue with an IO board (purchased from ifixit also, p/n 5000826, IF 188-069-1), I took my MB to apple service and they installed an original IO board and got audio back.

pboix - Réponse

The guide is 100% ok, just it seem that there was some "issue" with the IO board, since I am abroad it was easier for me to find another solution locally since I needed to solve the issue and was not able to wait for the whole process of claim a warranty on the board.

pboix - Réponse

Worked perfect! glad to have my computer back and running. I ordered the i/o board part along with the basic repair kit from iFixIt, and both the part and kit were great quality. Thanks!

jad - Réponse

Can anyone confirm if the one from 2013 A1466 (usb3.0) will work in A1369 2011?? They look identical

Christopher Lord - Réponse

Everything seemed t go well. The camera and USB port are fine. But on re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

Anyone know what this means?

Daniel Thomas - Réponse

Replacing this part resurrected my 2011 13” MacBook Air. However, no internal speakers when finished. Headphones, USB, and magsafe all work, just no internal speakers. Go the part from iFixit. Glad my machine is usable again, but very disappointed that I can’t hear any audio.

Phillip Coffman - Réponse

is this guide good for macair 11 inch early 2014 and 2015??

isabel - Réponse

just replaced i/o board, quick and easy, great guide!!

Wendell Kurtz - Réponse

It was much easier than expected. It’s actually my 14-year-old son who did most of the repair. We are happy to have been able to extend the life of our Mac Book Air. We thank IFIXIT for giving us the tools to fight against the planned obsolescence of our products.

Olivier Lardiere - Réponse

Thank you iFixit and Andrew… I repaired my Macbook air following your instructions that were very clear.

eddyriachy - Réponse

Is this the guide that I should follow to replace the MagSafe 1 port? The MagSafe port isn’t swappable right? It’s soldered in the Logic board right?

Steve - Réponse

Hi and thank you so much. While you may only get recompense of 1/millionth of a cent for my visit know you kept a 2011 MBA functional and out of recycling. btw - great laptop, I have done several full time contracts using it, at one point many years ago I worked out it had done 10,000 hours.

Shane - Réponse

Thank you, Andrew! You really saved my bacon. My 9 year old MBA was in perfect working order save the charging port. Replacing the i/o board has me up and running again, and within my budget, as I cannot afford to replace my laptop. Your instructions and photos are spot on. I would suggest that it is unnecessary to detach the fan ribbon cable—just flip the fan to the left while removing and installing the i/o board. Doing so would save having to struggle to get that tiny ribbon back into its slot.

Mark - Réponse

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