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MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: étape 1, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: étape 1, image 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - Réponse

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias - Réponse

  2. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 2, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 2, image 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to help pull the cable out of its socket.

  3. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 - Réponse

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka - Réponse

    Read my comment about using tweezers for the left speaker cable connector. But for some reason, the right connector was a little more tight and took more effort than the left speaker cable connector.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Réponse

  4. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 4, image 1 de 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 4, image 2 de 3 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 4, image 3 de 3
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - Réponse

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

    You should place the tip of the spudger on top of the connector and push out. At first I had the tip of the spudger on the bottom and tried to push up and that was incorrect.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Réponse

  5. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 5, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 5, image 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - Réponse

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - Réponse

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - Réponse

  6. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

  7. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  8. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 8, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - Réponse

  9. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - Réponse

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - Réponse

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - Réponse

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - Réponse

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - Réponse

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Réponse

  10. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Réponse

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Réponse

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - Réponse

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull - Réponse

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh - Réponse

    Mine were T8 and my T8 bit worked fine.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Réponse

  11. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - Réponse

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka - Réponse

  12. MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Logic Board Replacement: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - Réponse

    Removal of logic board and all the steps leading up to it I found unnecessary. They may be good for some but I really didn't need to dismantle the laptop as much as this guide shows to get the display off. Just my opinion, of course.

    Kevin Ginther - Réponse

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Un commentaire

Excellent guide, thank you very much.

Logic board removed from my daughter’s Air, cooked for 8m at 200C, cooled, reinstalled, and now works again.

I was able to remove and replace the 5th heatsink retaining screw without moving the antenna retainer.

Cheers, Aidan

Aidan Killian - Réponse

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