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Introduction

No sound out of the left side of your MacBook Air? Use this guide to replace the left speaker.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Réponse

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Réponse

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Réponse

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Réponse

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Réponse

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Réponse

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Réponse

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Réponse

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Réponse

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Réponse

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Réponse

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Réponse

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Réponse

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Réponse

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Réponse

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Réponse

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Réponse

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Réponse

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Réponse

  2. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board. Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.
    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

    The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

    The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

    I was installing battery model: A1406

    A1406 has the following connector:

    Top:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    Bottom:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    It came out fairly easy, luckily!

    (And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

    This was a great guide!

    wil - Réponse

    I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

    Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement) show a connector like the one in your photos.

    shamino -

    The 13 inch's tab is a bit more difficult to reinstall than uninstall. Delicate care is needed.

    Andrew Ruble - Réponse

    I agree with Andrew and Joes. I also found that the trickiest part was to pull the tap back when reinstalling the new battery. A special hint at this point in the guide would be nice.

    Alexander Kluge -

    This is the tricky part if there is one. Just pull back towards the battery and not up.

    Joe Wasser - Réponse

    hello there, My macbook air does not recognize a battery connected, anymore.

    It looks like I damaged the connectors while trying to connect the battery back, although it does not look damaged. I must say, I tried a little force to squeeze the connector in the middle instead of the edge. May have damaged the connector ?

    Once, after this, the MBA recognized my battery when pressed the connectors edge to the pins on the board. However, this did not last long and my MBA does not recognize the battery anymore. Any solutions on how I can fix this ? Please help.

    Samy Palaniappan - Réponse

    Had the same issue where my Macbook did not recognize the battery on the first try. I opened it back up and re-seated the connector and that fixed the problem. That particular connector does not seem to have a positive engagement. It does not appear to seat all the way down. It’s charging now and I hope it will remain stable and connected as I travel.

    Paul Tornatta - Réponse

    When we were putting the new battery in, it was easier to fit the tab back on and then fit the battery in place. I had someone helping me and they held the new battery up whilst I pushed the tab in. It was quite tight, and I ended up easing it in with the tip of a screwdriver on each edge in turn.

    Shimbo - Réponse

    The plastic pull tab broke off with the tiny tug I gave it (Mid-2011 Air). I just unscrewed the battery and carefully pulled out the connector when I had the extra room.

    Sam Kernot - Réponse

    for my 11inch mac air [mid 2011] the connecter is connected vertically and not horizontally - so you need to pull up, not back. thanks to Will for the links to the illustrations that made that clear. Getting the connecter to release was the hardest part of the job - otherwise, it was just removing screws.

    Jim Kemper - Réponse

    I had same as above you have to be very sure on your screen size as the battery disconnect looks a little different and I used the 11 inch steps on the link provided which worked perfectly! thanks

    Jim Lukens - Réponse

    Successful battery change on Macbook Air 13 mid-2012.

    After screwing in the new battery, I couldn't connect it to the motherboard. I was afraid of damaging the connection and the rest of the components.

    So it seemed easier to me to unscrew the new battery, then plug it in and finally screw it back in one last time. I think that this step lacks a point of precision in terms of reassembly.

    Otherwise, it's a good tutorial, thank you very much!

    Steve Baudron - Réponse

  3. Fix Kits pour Android

    Remplacer l'écran ou la batterie est à portée de kit !

    Acheter maintenant

    Fix Kits pour Android

    Remplacer l'écran ou la batterie est à portée de kit !

    Acheter maintenant
  4. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Les couleurs ne me semblent pas justes.

    drixe - Réponse

    The screw heads are made of a soft butter like chinese metal and will easily get f*cked up. take care when reinstalling to not mess them up.

    John Hamilton - Réponse

    les couleur sont justes; die rot markierten Schrauben oben und mitte sind länger als die unteren.

    I had used the P5 driver there, too (just gently put the bit into the screws and see that’ll fit.

    jmhoraze - Réponse

    The battery doesn’t actually need to come out for this repair if you’re confident working in tight spaces.

    J Kemp - Réponse

    Ich habe ein Problem die Schrauben von dem Akku mit dem gelieferten Schraubenzieher-Set rauszudrehen. Nur die Schraube in der Mitte konnte ich rausdrehen. Brauche ich einen anderen Schraubenzieher? Sollen die beiden Schraubenzieher aus dem mitgelieferten Set zu den Akku-Schrauben passen? Danke für eure Hilfe im Voraus! Alex

    Alex - Réponse

    Ich habe das Problem gelöst! Akku ist eingebaut. Mein Mac Air läuft wieder!

    Danke!

    Alex

    Alex - Réponse

  5. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • When installing the new battery, if there is a thin plastic film on your replacement battery, do not attempt to remove it. It is glued on and protects the battery pack while it is inside the MacBook.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    Quick note about the replacement battery, if you bought from iFixit and the battery sections have a thin film over them, peel them off. They're to protect the battery during transit, and if you leave them on they might cause heating issues.

    Here is a link to my question about it: Replacement battery has thin film on each section do I need to remove? plus, I just got an email from iFixit customer support that it needs to be removed.

    dpchoung - Réponse

    thank you for the help! I installed the proper batt properly following the advice from here;-) Mahalo from Hawaii-

    zzzikaikazzz - Réponse

    Does replacement battery for Macbook Air 13" Mid 2012 works with Mac OS Sierra 10.12.3 and up?

    Benny Forsberg - Réponse

    I installed the battery (OEM Apple) for the Mac Air 2013 throygh 2015:

    1. the battery for the Mac Air 2012 throygh 2015 was stated to may have compatibility problems;

    2. lesser price;

    no problems with macOS Sierra.

    jmhoraze - Réponse

    Replaced it in no time! Thank you and cheers from Slovenia (that’s the one who beat you in hockey few days ago

    Mark Ogner - Réponse

    iFixit should really clarify whether the film covering each of the battery packs should or should not be removed. Based on dpchoung’s comment I removed this film. It was not obvious or easy to remove and as I was doing it I realized that maybe this was not a good idea as I was concerned the packs might be damaged in the removal process. I suspect most people don’t bother with this film. Later, clicking on the forum exchange I see conflicting advice. My guess is that the film provides added protection and has minimal impact on thermal issues. I am sorry I went through the bother of removing the film and hope no damage was done.

    Mark Young - Réponse

    Ich hab’ gelesen, dass neu eingebaute Batterien kalibriert werden müssen: https://www.newertech.com/batteries/powe...

    hjsalchow - Réponse

    Step 1 has an error, at least for me. I believe the 10 pentalobe screws are size P4, not P5. My Wiha P5 pentalobe screwdriver was too big for the screws, but my smaller P4 pentalobe screwdriver worked fine.

    BrianM - Réponse

    Great here. Replacement was a breeze. Thanks guys.

    DanielFerrer - Réponse

    Why should I wait 5 hours after draining the battery before charging it again?

    thomas.ss - Réponse

    It’s part of the calibration process—leaving it dead for awhile ensures that the battery drains low enough to reset the full discharge flag in the battery management system. If you skip that part, your battery may not calibrate properly. (It’ll still work fine, but the battery’s % charge status in macOS may be unreliable and/or behave in odd ways.) If you had to skip it for some reason, you can recalibrate at any time.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After I replaced the battery, I plugged the charger in to start calibration and the computer started by itself. As soon as this happened I turned it off. Can this be an issue?

    How do I know the battery is 100% charged?

    Thank you

    tobias.a94 - Réponse

    It might be obvious to most people, but no mention of plugging in the battery connector when installing the new battery. I missed that part at first. Overall great instructions and finished quickly.

    Staci Thompson - Réponse

    It went well, thank you. One comment though, I prefer to put the connector back before installing the new battery since the cable is not flexible enough.

    ricochapuis - Réponse

    Replaced my new battery for a mid 2011 MacBook Air but now the battery icon says it’s not charging

    Mike Bridgewater - Réponse

  6. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  7. De-route the left speaker cable from its retaining clip on the I/O board.
    • De-route the left speaker cable from its retaining clip on the I/O board.

    This photograph does not match the model. The microphone has a flat ribbon cable, not a round one.

    Goth70 Fuzed - Réponse

    Also, the wire has no retaining clip in this model.

    Goth70 Fuzed - Réponse

  8. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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As someone else mentioned, my MacBook Air 2012 Mid-Summer also did not have a retaining clip on the left speaker cable.

Martin Heinsdorf - Réponse

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