Introduction

Use this guide to replace your Air's trackpad.

    • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Réponse

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Réponse

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Réponse

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Réponse

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Réponse

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Réponse

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Réponse

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Réponse

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Réponse

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Réponse

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Réponse

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Réponse

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Réponse

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Réponse

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

    The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

    The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

    I was installing battery model: A1406

    A1406 has the following connector:

    Top:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    Bottom:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    It came out fairly easy, luckily!

    (And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

    This was a great guide!

    wil - Réponse

    I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

    Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement) show a connector like the one in your photos.

    shamino -

    The 13 inch's tab is a bit more difficult to reinstall than uninstall. Delicate care is needed.

    Andrew Ruble - Réponse

    I agree with Andrew and Joes. I also found that the trickiest part was to pull the tap back when reinstalling the new battery. A special hint at this point in the guide would be nice.

    Alexander Kluge -

    This is the tricky part if there is one. Just pull back towards the battery and not up.

    Joe Wasser - Réponse

    hello there, My macbook air does not recognize a battery connected, anymore.

    It looks like I damaged the connectors while trying to connect the battery back, although it does not look damaged. I must say, I tried a little force to squeeze the connector in the middle instead of the edge. May have damaged the connector ?

    Once, after this, the MBA recognized my battery when pressed the connectors edge to the pins on the board. However, this did not last long and my MBA does not recognize the battery anymore. Any solutions on how I can fix this ? Please help.

    Samy Palaniappan - Réponse

    Had the same issue where my Macbook did not recognize the battery on the first try. I opened it back up and re-seated the connector and that fixed the problem. That particular connector does not seem to have a positive engagement. It does not appear to seat all the way down. It’s charging now and I hope it will remain stable and connected as I travel.

    Paul Tornatta - Réponse

    When we were putting the new battery in, it was easier to fit the tab back on and then fit the battery in place. I had someone helping me and they held the new battery up whilst I pushed the tab in. It was quite tight, and I ended up easing it in with the tip of a screwdriver on each edge in turn.

    Shimbo - Réponse

    The plastic pull tab broke off with the tiny tug I gave it (Mid-2011 Air). I just unscrewed the battery and carefully pulled out the connector when I had the extra room.

    Sam Kernot - Réponse

    for my 11inch mac air [mid 2011] the connecter is connected vertically and not horizontally - so you need to pull up, not back. thanks to Will for the links to the illustrations that made that clear. Getting the connecter to release was the hardest part of the job - otherwise, it was just removing screws.

    Jim Kemper - Réponse

    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

      • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

      • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Les couleurs ne me semblent pas justes.

    drixe - Réponse

    The screw heads are made of a soft butter like chinese metal and will easily get f*cked up. take care when reinstalling to not mess them up.

    John Hamilton - Réponse

    les couleur sont justes; die rot markierten Schrauben oben und mitte sind länger als die unteren.

    I had used the P5 driver there, too (just gently put the bit into the screws and see that’ll fit.

    jmhoraze - Réponse

    The battery doesn’t actually need to come out for this repair if you’re confident working in tight spaces.

    jfollowskemp - Réponse

    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • When installing the new battery, if there is a thin plastic film on your replacement battery, do not attempt to remove it. It is glued on and protects the battery pack while it is inside the MacBook.

    Quick note about the replacement battery, if you bought from iFixit and the battery sections have a thin film over them, peel them off. They're to protect the battery during transit, and if you leave them on they might cause heating issues.

    Here is a link to my question about it: Replacement battery has thin film on each section do I need to remove? plus, I just got an email from iFixit customer support that it needs to be removed.

    dpchoung - Réponse

    thank you for the help! I installed the proper batt properly following the advice from here;-) Mahalo from Hawaii-

    zzzikaikazzz - Réponse

    Does replacement battery for Macbook Air 13" Mid 2012 works with Mac OS Sierra 10.12.3 and up?

    Benny Forsberg - Réponse

    I installed the battery (OEM Apple) for the Mac Air 2013 throygh 2015:

    1. the battery for the Mac Air 2012 throygh 2015 was stated to may have compatibility problems;

    2. lesser price;

    no problems with macOS Sierra.

    jmhoraze - Réponse

    Replaced it in no time! Thank you and cheers from Slovenia (that’s the one who beat you in hockey few days ago

    Mark Ogner - Réponse

    iFixit should really clarify whether the film covering each of the battery packs should or should not be removed. Based on dpchoung’s comment I removed this film. It was not obvious or easy to remove and as I was doing it I realized that maybe this was not a good idea as I was concerned the packs might be damaged in the removal process. I suspect most people don’t bother with this film. Later, clicking on the forum exchange I see conflicting advice. My guess is that the film provides added protection and has minimal impact on thermal issues. I am sorry I went through the bother of removing the film and hope no damage was done.

    Mark Young - Réponse

    Ich hab’ gelesen, dass neu eingebaute Batterien kalibriert werden müssen: https://www.newertech.com/batteries/powe...

    hjsalchow - Réponse

    Step 1 has an error, at least for me. I believe the 10 pentalobe screws are size P4, not P5. My Wiha P5 pentalobe screwdriver was too big for the screws, but my smaller P4 pentalobe screwdriver worked fine.

    BrianM - Réponse

    Great here. Replacement was a breeze. Thanks guys.

    DanielFerrer - Réponse

    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap (on the side opposite the cable), not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the rear edge of the Air.

    Thanks for this fantastic guide!!! Got an old Macbook Air working again. Only difficult spot was the ZIF cables. Man, I hate ZIF cables....

    lyleberman - Réponse

    I found it easyer to first connect the cables to the touchpad during reassabling. I could handel the tiny connectors better. After connecting the cabels I could easiely install the touchpad it self.

    Stefan Kania - Réponse

    • While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

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    • Remove the following twelve screws:

      • Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

      • Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad.

      • A Phillips #000 should be sufficient, but a JIS #000 may also work as well.

    I stripped one of the six 1.6mm screws securing the trackpad to the upper case. Where could I get a replacement and what are the exact dimensions (I assume that 1.6mm is the length not the head size). Not sure whether this is the right place to post this, but I would be very thankful for some help.

    Karl - Réponse

    The 00 philips driver is not working for these 6 screws...very frustrated....

    Adam - Réponse

    The 00 phillips screw driver does not do the job for step 8!!!!!!!!! FRUSTRATING!

    anonymous 1446 - Réponse

    Anyone figured the right screwdriver?

    er09gi4v - Réponse

    Worst part was the philips screws on the brackets, step 8. One screw wouldn't unscrew for the longest time. I stripped it so bad, that I finally got it undone with a Torx 5 that I wedged into the stripped screw hole! Fortunately the replacement trackpad came with it's own brackets and screws anyway, so I didn't need to re-use the messed up screw.

    In the end, success...phew!

    fauxryan - Réponse

    Beware that when you remove these screws the trackpad will have dropped down and resting on the screen. Maybe a precaution would be to place a thin cloth between the trackpad and screen.

    Joe - Réponse

    Agreed on the error in the guide. J00 seems to be the best fit.

    H4nd5omeR0b - Réponse

    I stripped one of the 12 screws. Of course one of the ones attached to the unibody frame not the trackpad. I thought I could weasel the trackpad out without taking the right bracket off but no dice. I had to bend the bracket and turn it around to get the trackpad out.

    After I got the trackpad out I took out the replacement (purchased from here) and lo and behold it had the two brackets attached! So great, I'm good on screw count! But crap, now I REALLY need to get that stripped screw back out.

    Thankfully I was able to dig it out with a tiny flat head bit from the 54 bit driver kit.

    I even reattached the two brackets to the old trackpad and put it back in the ESD bag. I wonder if I can send it back to iFixIt to be refurbished. Don't want to toss it and have it wind up in a landfill unnecessarily!

    David Lam - Réponse

    The Phillips 00 I bought from iFixit definitely doesn't work. Gonna try their 000.

    jorach - Réponse

    My new trackpad came with the brackets installed. It wasn’t necessary for me to remove the screws circled in orange (they hold the bracket to the trackpad). Check to see if your new trackpad has the brackets installed before removing the orange screws.

    Doug Weathers - Réponse

    After purchasing multiple sets of drivers to get these out, I recommend anyone who finds they don’t have an adaquet PH00 driver to skip any dollar store or RadioShack driver sets. Head down to your local tool shop or auto repair store and buy yourself a $5-$10 set of precision drivers with only a few bits. Don’t go buying yourself a 20 piece set and think you’re getting a deal, these screws require a good quality PH00 to be removed without stripping.

    Spencer Shupe - Réponse

    When you're putting it back together, it's useful to attach these to the trackpad so it won't drop below the socket

    Jelan - Réponse

    • Remove the right and left trackpad brackets from the upper case.

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    • Remove the 1.4 mm T5 Torx set screw from its tapped hole near the front edge of the upper case.

    • During reassembly, do not over-tighten the set screw, as the button will cease to click at a certain point. Adjust the set screw until the movable side of the trackpad has minimal play.

    This was a T10 on my Mid 2011.

    Joe - Réponse

    Sorry, seems more like a T6

    Joe -

    This was a T6 on mine as well. Sadly I figured that out after threading the screw with the T5 included in the iFixit kit, so now my trackpad won't click at all.

    IMPORTANT NOTE: Buy a T6 screwdriver if the T5 in the kit is just a bit too small for the screw in step 10.

    Jon -

    I thought the purpose of this set screw was to adjust the height of the pad relative to the rest of the deck. By feeling underneath as I adjusted this screw, I was able to get the join between the pad and the deck seamlessly level,

    bbc2 - Réponse

    Hi, I just want to ask what it means that it will stop clicking eventually, I had my macbook air trackpad replaced after some water fell on it and now around 9 months later the trackpad click gets stuck and it's driving me crazy, I went back to the service center myself and the technician actually admitted that he overtightened the screws but since the parts warranty is only 90 days he has to charge me again. So my question actually is can overtightening it cause permanent damage? Is there anything I can do? There's no apple store here (Cyprus) but the service center is one of the official service and registered distributor for Mac products and specifically for the more professional clientele.

    crossmission1984 - Réponse

    can anyone tell me where to get a replacement for the set screw mentioned in step 10? mine has gone missing. all i need is the screw, i don't want to replace the whole trackpad.

    sean - Réponse

    I, too, have a question about the set screw. I replaced a MacBook Air 2011 keyboard because of water damage and that process involves also taking out the trackpad and putting it back in. After reassembly, I now get phantom clicks (the "click" sound happens as expected, but the Air frequently thinks I'm clicking when I'm not). Could this be a result of over/under tightening the set screw, or is it more likely the trackpad also needs replacement?

    Hank - Réponse

    The set screw on my macbook barely turns 1/8 of a rotation before it hits a blockage. I do not want to try to turn harder for fear of stripping the screen and/or the threads in the case. I assumed that the screw should be able to be completely unscrewed from the case, correct? Any idea what's causing the blockage?

    johnkowtko - Réponse

    There is no need or benefit to removing this screw completely. Maybe back it out a little bit just to make it easier to install the new trackpad, and then adjust it once the new trackpad is mounted in the case. Agreed, this was a T6 on my MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012.

    mattdittrich - Réponse

    It was a T6 in MacBook Air Mid 2011 as well.

    Armin Hempel - Réponse

    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

35 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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i have problems with reassembly. how do i manage it to get the keyboard connector in the socket again? i can't make enough pressure to get it in

Peter - Réponse

Hey guys,

just repaired my "old" 2012 Air's touchpad and thanks to your great instruction it took me exactly 30 Mins and was super easy...

Thanks for your great work!

@peter: yes, it needs a bit fiddling with the cables - just keep an eye on the flaps (they are closed on the new TP). Then it helped me to press the cable slightly in place with one hand and carefully pushing it in (moving it slightly left and right) with the other.

Patrick Maier - Réponse

Great guide!! recently repaired two mb air of my office, great parts!!! great guide

Miguel Cartagenova - Réponse

step 10 is not needed, in my second repair of this model I didn't remove it, this screw is only for calibration

Miguel Cartagenova - Réponse

Right. Step 10 is not only not needed but should definitely not be done! This is a pure adjustment screw for the clickpoint. Only readjust there, in case clicking does not feel okay after a change of the trackpad. Usually no adjusment is necessary.

Marc Malkwitz - Réponse

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