Introduction
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le pavé tactile.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Utilisez un tournevis P5 Pentalobe pour retirer les dix vis qui fixent le boîtier inférieur, dont les dimensions sont les suivantes :
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Deux vis de 9 mm
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Huit vis de 2,6 mm
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Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.
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Enlevez la partie inférieure et mettez-la de côté.
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.
nijafe -
So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?
I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.
Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.
Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.
Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.
The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.
The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".
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Saisissez la petite languette en plastique transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie, et tirez-la vers l'avant du MacBook Air pour déconnecter la batterie de la carte mère.
@&?! - pulled plastic tab on new battery to line up with logic board pins look to be coming out of male connector? Argh?!
Can expect anyone from ifixit to get back to me?
Hi James,
It may be that one of the pins did not lock in properly into the plastic housing. You can try pushing the corresponding wire into the connector housing to try to lock the pin in.
If that does not help, please respond to my email. Thanks!
The original battery plastic pull tab broke off when I tried to pull it towards the front of the Mac. How do I get to disconnect the battery connector now?
My connector would not release as shown, using reasonable force, so I unbolted the battery to slide it back, then was able to slide the connector back. Ultimately, it popped up on its own - suggest review of this process. No drama, nothing broken, all good.
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Dévissez les cinq vis suivantes, fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur :
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Trois vis Torx T5 de 6,3 mm
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Deux vis Torx T5 de 2,4 mm
When going in reverse, it's easier to do step 3 before 4.
Screw normal torx T-5
The center screw on my Macbook Air 6,1 is slightly longer than the 6.3 mm screws. John H. is right: when putting back together step 3 is easier and safer to do before step 4. In order of reassembly: Step 5, 3, 4, 2, and 1.
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Soulevez la batterie par les bords du côté de la carte mère et retirez-la ensuite du boîtier.
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Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement. Lors de l'avertissement de batterie faible, enregistrez votre travail et laisser votre ordinateur allumé jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.
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Si vous remarquez un comportement inhabituel ou des problèmes après l'installation de votre nouvelle batterie, vous devrez peut-être réinitialiser le contrôleur de gestion du système (SMC) de votre MacBook.
Two Questions and a Comment:
1) “Allow the battery to drain overnight” - Should the computer shut down automatically (during the first drain, as well)? If not, what percentage should the battery reach before charging it to 100%?
2) While the battery is draining, can I use the computer?
When installing the new battery, I found it much easier to insert the battery connector before screwing in the battery.
When reinserting the battery, plug in the battery connector before screwing the battery into place. Some wiggle room is required to reconnect the batter and tweezers will help with the plugging in.
Check to ensure that all 5 holes in the battery enclosure are drilled through. One of mine wasn’t and needed a little push through before setting the battery in place.
Also, as noted above, definitely re-connect the cable before screwing in the battery!
agree on reconnecting before securing battery.
Followed this guide step by step for a successful battery swap thanks iFixit!
FYI, as someone else pointed out, if you try removing the battery connector after you have installed it for one reason or another the pins pull out of the plastic connector piece (the adhesive does not hold). You have to push the cable back into the plastic connector so the pins are all the way back in.
Really useful and simple instructions, done in 10 minutes. Many thanks! H
Merci pour ce super tuto.
L’opération c’est déroulée avec succès.
There is a plastic film across the new battery that wasn’t on the old one, should I remove the plastic film on the new battery?
Actual removal and installation was super easy. Just be sure to have a small container to put the screws in!
Going through calibration right now
As others note on step 4... For reassembly, place battery in area loosely, and reconnect. Then shift the battery fully into position. Eyeball it to roughly get it into the right place, but don't stop there. Take a tool like the spudger and place the pointed end in the screw holes one by one. Shift battery until line up looks good with a bright light. I put back the screw in middle of battery, then the others, etc.
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Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou votre ongle pour retourenr le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du pavé tactile.
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Tirez la nappe du pavé tactile tout droit hors de sa prise, vers le bord arrière de l'Air.
If you are newer at repair, use the new part to practice flipping the retaining clips. This can help before moving on to the real one.
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Tout en soulevant soigneusement la nappe du clavier d'une main, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger ou votre ongle pour retourner le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.
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Tirez la nappe du clavier tout droit hors de sa prise, vers le bord avant de l'Air.
the trickiest step on re-assembly is reinserting this back-folded cable into the socket and then making sure the retaining flap (now hidden) is firmly down again. You can tell if it is still up (and so the cable loose) if the cable does not feel flat when you run your finger lightly over it.
If it will not “plug” back in do you have to buy a whole new keyboard? I have pretty good eyes and magnifying glass and headlamp and my keyboard just won’t work anymore. This thing must have detached when I was putting in a battery. I was happy to see the thing here but disappointed because now my keyboard will not work because I can’t tell what’s wrong. It seems plugged in but won’t work! Does that mean I have to buy a new keyboard? I’d really like to know.
A magnifying glass and bright light can help immensely in this step. The retaining flap is tiny and difficult to see while the cable is still connected.
Dick, do you have a suggestion for a magnifying glass/light set up? I used a magnifying glass and a small flashlight. But found that the job required two hands so it was hard to see while I was trying to do it. I thought about ordering the magnifying glasses sold here but don’t know how well they work.
A head lamp has become an indispensable tool in my laptop repair business.
This is where I had a problem. Part of the plastic retaining flap broke off. Now my trackpad, which had a problem, is working but about half the keys on my keyboard, which was working before, aren’t. I don’t know whether its because I damaged this cable connections in the attempts to seat it earlier or whether not having the pressure on one half of it is causing the connection to not be made with a number of the keys. Since my keyboard had worked with my old trackpad and the socket clamp isn’t broken on that, I was thinking of attaching it to see if clamping the cable down properly will solve the problem. But of course then my trackpad wouldn’t work anymore. But it might tell me that I have to replace the trackpad again with one with a working clamp (retaining flap?) to make the keyboard work. And then I am back with dealing with troublesome trackpad screws. I can use an external keyboard but since I wanted to be able to use this laptop for traveling, that’s not my preference. Any thoughts???
Use a small strip of electricians tape on one end fold it over to make a pull tab, then place on the ribbon cable so you can pull the ribbon into the slot.
Most of the time the latch clip can be refitted in if you haven’t broken it in half. The system won’t work correctly without it!
Dan -
Hi Dan, I did, unfortunately, break the latch clip. Only about a third of it is left- the other 2./3rds broke off completely. From what you said that is the most likely explanation why certain keys ( 3,e,d,c,6,y,h,n,space bar and /) don’t work. I had wondered if I might have damaged the cable connections when I was trying to get them into the slot earlier (not realizing there was a retaining clip down.) If it is the clip, then the answer seems to be to replace the trackpad again. Which would be no problem if the screws weren’t so bad. But am worried that I will never be able to get all the screws out and new ones screwed in properly. But maybe worth a try. Any suggestions?
Have no magic here…
Somehow you need to replace the latch. Getting a replacement part is one way, the other is looking for a broken system to steal the latch off of carefully removing it without breaking it, then popping it on your systems connector.
Dan -
Dan, that’s a great idea. I have my old Apple trackpad and the piece is still intact on that. It hadn't occurred to me that I might be able to take it off and put it on the cable on the new trackpad. Thanks for the suggestion!
I do not think there is a latch to be opened.
Both the logic board and the trackpad connectors use a compression bar (latch). When you have it in the open state its ZIF but to secure the cable you need to close the latch to hold the cable and make the needed electrical connection Trackpad Flex Connector
Dan -
Yes there is a latch towards the back of the connector, opposite of where the cable enters the connector. It is very thin. Opens from back to front.
There are two versions of the connector depending on the trackpad and logic board. Yours should be like the one I posted.
The other one is more like this one Keyboard Connector
Dan -
A video that shows how this thing unplugs and plugs back in would be helpful. It just looks like a piece of black tape. I had no idea there were tiny prongs that have to be plugged in. Now my keyboard doesn’t work.
I was looking at these instructions because while I was following your battery replacement instructions I accidentally unplugged this thing.
Your instructions on how to plug it back in font show anything at all.
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Retirez les douze vis suivantes :
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Six vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm fixant le pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.
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Six vis cruciformes de 1,6 mm fixant les dispositifs de support du pavé tactile au pavé.
I have a Macbook Air early 2013 A1466 Model. These are not PH00 screws in my case— like not even close. i am going by a jewelry store. Maybe, it is the case for the US version. Not working for this German model. Just FYI. Or perhaps you know as you are leaving the ph00 out of the description here and are just referencing the 1,6 mm.
Actually I went and got a phillips ph00 1,6 now specifically: screws up the screws. Doesnt work as many are saying on youtube. But whats the right screwdriver then??
So how did you do it after all?
Same problem, can't find a tiny enough screwdriver
I also had problems with the screws. Started out using the PH00 screwdriver and the screwheads were being stripped. Switched to the PH 000 as suggested by the commenter above and it still stripped screws (ones that hadn’t been touched before). Finally gave up, put the screws I had managed to get out back in (surprisingly they screwed back in without much difficulty), and put everything back together without being able to replace the trackpad. Luckily the computer worked but still having to use an external mouse to click. It seems that the screws for the trackpad are very soft and the heads strip easily. Not sure what to do at this point.
Apple uses a thread sealer which makes it hard! I first try a little bit of some acetone around the base of the screw dripping a little down letting spork and adding a bit more as it evaporates. When that fails I reach for my small nozzle heat gun as I want to focus the heat just to the head of the screw using foil to protect the rest of the area.
Dan -
I had an easy time with the JIS000 screwdriver bit I have so if you have one, give it a try.
What is a JIS000 screwdriver and where do I find one?
JIS is japan Industrial Standard which sets a standard for both screws and the tools needed for them.
Here’s one set iFixit - JIS Driver Set
Dan -
screw JM-CRV J000
The brackets on mind had stripped screws a d are now broken. Anyone know where I can buy those brackets?
I went ahead and ordered the iFixit - JIS Driver Set on Lareina’s recommend here, and only 6 of the 12 screws came up with it. It started to strip the upper six. They are all, after all, 1.6 mm, and the smallest driver on the JIS driver set (not recommended BTW) is 2.0mm) so that was useless advice. so back to square one, weeks waiting to get this thing installed!
In my case, I had just that one last screw that was stripped - and what I was able to do to remove it was to wriggle the bracket to get the screw to move free - which then made it much easier to unscrew it with a PH000 bit even though it was stripped. I was able to duplicate the process 2 more times (so 3 total) working on 2x MacBook Airs.
I haven’t tried anything else - where I was just about to break out my Dremel to turn the screw into a chisel tip (high risk given all the metal dust flying about) or wear out the edges to make it easier for me to use side cutters or pliers to grasp the edges and remove it…
When reassembling, I had to gently lift the replacement track pad up with the spudger on the keyboard side to get the bracket screws to align with the trackpad.
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Retirez du boîtier supérieur les dispositifs de support droit et gauche du pavé tactile.
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La vis Torx T5 de 1,4 mm près du bord avant du boîtier doit être ajustée correctement.
Help I stripped it can't get the screw out
And it didn't go in easy either
I needed to tighten the set screw a bit farther than I expected to get the click action of the replacement trackpad to feel right. With everything reassembled, except for the final outer bottom cover, I made slight adjustments to the set screw and then flipped over the macbook to test the actual click pressure. Did this a few times to get it set up properly and then secured the bottom cover to complete the job.
Step 10 shoud´nt be on this guide, it´s misleading, not necesary at all to change the trackpad nor to clean it; first 2 comments on this step, "i screw the screw" (pun very intended)
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour faire soigneusement levier sur le bord du pavé tactile le plus proche du clavier et l'enlever de son emplacement dans le boîtier supérieur, en l'écartant des dispositifs de support fixés au boîtier supérieur.
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Retirez le pavé tactile du boîtier supérieur.
I suggest leaving the brackets attached to the trackpad until after removing the trackpad from its recess, and then attaching the brackets to the new trackpad before replacing it in the recess. Otherwise, the loose trackpad will drop onto the screen.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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5 commentaires
Great write up. Where can I find the keyboard ribbon cable? (the wide one that doesn't make any 90s. I tore mine with metal tweezers. Can't find the wide cable anywhere.
shhhhh, it's called ie bAe eYe
even a 65 year old can do it! (with magnifying glasses) Thank! Fixed the dirty, sticking trackpad!
Step 10 should not be done! This is a pure adjustment screw for the clickpoint. Only readjust there, in case clicking does not feel okay after a change of the trackpad. Usually no adjusment is necessary. The trackpad comes out easily after Step 8
Schritt 10 ist falsch! Diese Schraube dient lediglich der Justage des Druckpunkts des Klicks. Sie muss nur verstellt werden, falls der Klick nach dem Wechsel des Trackpads nicht mehr ok ist. Das Trackpad lässt sich aber bereits nach Schritt 8 problemlos entnehmen.
I have replaced the trackpad but it now gives erratic behavior. Usually after booting/opening the lid it works fine for a couple of minutes. Then it stops moving or jumps around the screen after a freeze. Reset SMC does not help unfortunately. Anybody any ideas?
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - Réponse
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - Réponse
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - Réponse
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - Réponse
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - Réponse
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
Thank you
ilyabuhov - Réponse
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - Réponse
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - Réponse
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - Réponse
I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly
eric -
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - Réponse
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - Réponse
The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!
Nikolay Andreev - Réponse
Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..
joemoog - Réponse
Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.
Merci pour votre aide.
chicco33 - Réponse
oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.
Dan -
The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.
Andre Clement - Réponse
P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.
michaelquinnell - Réponse
Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.
Thomas Lewis - Réponse
To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as
Pentalobe 1.2(mm)
also
P4 = 0.8
P6 = 1.5
Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2
nijafe -
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
Sean Love - Réponse
Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .
John Brennand - Réponse
Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).
Was very easy.
New iFixit battery looks great so far:
Jonathan Cross - Réponse
can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,
hawk_lpc -
Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2
Mario Verlent - Réponse
Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.
Joel Sebastian - Réponse
Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).
Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...
Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!
Donald Niamath - Réponse
Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.
Amir Zaidi - Réponse
Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !
Billy Wong - Réponse
Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)
See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge
Fletcher Cole - Réponse
… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?
... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?
Blatt - Réponse
Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD
DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER
instead press
OPTION+CMD+R +POWER
I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015
Albert - Réponse
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.
Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.
Good luck. - Eric J.
ECJohansen - Réponse
On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.
Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.
Rich Garella - Réponse
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.
shrhh - Réponse