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  1. , Batterie: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites tourner la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.

    I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.

    ServiceDocs - Réponse

    This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...

    Thanks again!

    skraggle - Réponse

    Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!

    Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!

    mikeutter - Réponse

    Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.

    Mike Woodruff - Réponse

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Calvin - Réponse

    Citation de Calvin :

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?

    skraggle - Réponse

    Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.

    josefsalyer - Réponse

    Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?

    Peter Wood - Réponse

    i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.

    howard bederman -

    Outstanding guide - thank you!

    owen bullock - Réponse

    My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?

    Beth Tomasek - Réponse

    Better leave the back pack where it cannot fall. Hindsight is so much better than foresight . I learned the hard way too!

    Loy Lum - Réponse

    Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.

    Patrick Langvardt - Réponse

    Be really careful while doing this to not use too much force while doing this step, because the plastic disc can break off and it can be a cosmetic issue along with functionality issue. This happened to me first hand so please take my word for it…

    [deleted] - Réponse

    Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.

    harwood - Réponse

    Hehe, still my mac os running! After, already bit more than 10 years of use!

    I put new heat paste now for the second time. Maybe this helped for staying young so long.

    Thanx for all the repair guides!!!

    Fabien - Réponse

  2. : étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.

    I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.

    Jean Wallemacq - Réponse

    I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!

    See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRYIMDQx....

    Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.

    Jean Wallemacq - Réponse

  3. , Capot mémoire: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les trois vis Phillips espacées régulièrement sur la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie.

    • Les vis sont intégrées au capot métallique de la mémoire, vous ne pouvez donc pas les perdre.

    please pay attention that screws are native to metal pieces otherwise you are going to be a stupid like me trying to unscrew unsuccessfully until I reread the guide

    manochu - Réponse

    Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”

    decristoforo - Réponse

    The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!

    Wytchkraft - Réponse

    I found when putting this back in that I had to use a spudger to work the mesh/foam into the slot where the memory cards are so the bracket would lay flat again when screwed back in.

    slwatts2 - Réponse

    What size screwdriver

    edward greene - Réponse

    Edward: Philips 000

    johnsawyercjs - Réponse

  4. : étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Faites pivoter le capot de la mémoire en forme de L de manière à dégager l'ouverture du compartiment de la batterie, soulevez-le et sortez-le de l'ordinateur.

    That looks so easy!

    caiden rutledge - Réponse

  5. , Boîtier supérieur: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes :

    • Une vis Phillips n°00 11 mm au milieu du boîtier (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 14,5 mm (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).

    • Si les vis adhèrent au boîtier, vous pouvez utiliser un tournevis aimanté pour les sortir.

    • La plus courte de ces vis est celle du milieu.

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    ryan64 - Réponse

    Citation de ryan64 :

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.

    Alaerus - Réponse

    The top two screws didn't seem to want to come out, and I saw no reason they had to, so I left them there, put a little piece of tape over each so they wouldn't fall out.

    HandyMac - Réponse

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.

    colmcostelloe - Réponse

    for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience

    manochu - Réponse

    I also did not find that I needed to remove the two 14.5 mm screws. I unscrewed them but they seemed designed to stay with the case and I found it did not seem to affect anything to just let them stay there.

    Alice - Réponse

  6. : étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie :

    • Une vis Phillips n°0 3 mm (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°0 4 mm de chaque côté (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).

    • Soyez particulièrement prudent avec ces vis. Elles s'abîment très facilement.

    On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

    The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

    LaNoobieFixer - Réponse

    On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.

    scottgriz - Réponse

    I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)

    HandyMac - Réponse

    Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.

    Thomas -

    My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.

    Ernie K -

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.

    colmcostelloe - Réponse

    I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!

    If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.

    colmcostelloe - Réponse

    oh thanks I thought the screw was lost forever

    Ike Broflovski -

    I couldn't pull over the two 3 mm Phillips on the step 6, how could you've done it?

    Eliotus - Réponse

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    BeatJunkie - Réponse

    please note the position of the screws because when you are reinstalling them you might get confuse. this ones go below or under (sorry English inst my first language). There are two screw holes this steps are for the ones below.

    manochu - Réponse

    Citation de BeatJunkie :

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)

    Cong Trieu - Réponse

    For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.

    Paul Collins - Réponse

    I have two MacBooks, one white and one black and both had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw, opposite of what was in the main document

    doublel - Réponse

    In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..

    Julien Lesage - Réponse

    Mine was A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz. Of course I did not keep track of the screws and ended up with two shorter ones and one longer. Replaced them with the longer one to the right of the three. Got it done with a Wiha PH00 screwdriver. Had better hold than the bit from the precision screwdriver kit.

    quentinlow - Réponse

    me too. Got it done with a iFixIt PH00 screwdriver.

    Johhnie Doe -

    Yeah, same for me, #00 worked; #0 suggested in the guide was too big. I didn’t even try #000. For 2.2GHz A1181. My screw config matched the guide, 3mm in middle, 4mm on the sides.

    Les Kitchen -

    Stripped a head on my left screw (A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.0 GHz). Used a precision 1.5 slotted screwdriver to get enough bite to screw it out and back in.

    Daniel - Réponse

    I couldn't get the suggested Phillips #0 tip to grab. PH#00 worked, but I found the PH#000 to work the best.

    steveeb33 - Réponse

    I found this step to be the hardest to put back because of the angle - even with iFixIt's driver Flex Extension.

    steveeb33 - Réponse

    I had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw…. So I put the 4mm screw in the middle hole, and the 3mm screws in the outer holes.

    FixWiki - Réponse

  7. : étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips de chaque côté de la paroi droite du compartiment de la batterie (pas celles qui sont les plus proches du connecteur de la batterie).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°000 6,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.

    Cong Trieu - Réponse

    For black 2.2GHz A1181, I used PH #000 as suggested by guide. My screws are both 6mm.

    Les Kitchen - Réponse

  8. : étape 8, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les quatre vis Phillips indiquées de la paroi avant du compartiment de la batterie : En partant de la gauche, retirez les 2e, 4e, 7e et 9e vis.

    • Quatre vis Phillips n°000 3,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 4 mm).

    It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.

    The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.

    Martin Born - Réponse

    Yeah, I found PH #00 better too. (For black 2.2Ghz A1181.)

    Les Kitchen -

    I used PH0 for this

    Projectors Band - Réponse

    Is there a way I can cut the bracket off? I completely stripped one of the screws?

    Austin Martin - Réponse

    I’ve done this often enough that I marked the screws to remove with red marker.

    Peter Wood - Réponse

  9. : étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les 4 vis suivantes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur :

    • Les vis les plus longues vont à l'intérieur de l'ordinateur, les plus courtes à l'extérieur.

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 11 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,2 mm x longueur 2 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 7,25 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2 mm x longueur 3,75 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    Outer screws (red) are shorter (7mm long), while inner screws (orange) are 11mm.

    ptb - Réponse

    I found these screws quite loose; upon reassembly, I wanted to torque them but found the case would distort towards the center, so I had to leave them fairly loose

    David A - Réponse

    I cannot get the two outer screws out for the life of me- and afraid of stripping them. Already see I'm doing some damage. Help? What can I do?

    Olivia - Réponse

    Are you sure you have a proper screwdriver? From my experience you really need to use the correct size and not just something that seems to fit.

    Jakub Clapa -

    Olivia, you can screw back the longer screws that go on the inside. In the photo marked with orange. Then open and close the lid of the MacBook a few times. This will fit the 4 screws more properly in the steel inner-frame and they can come a little bit loose.

    Close the lid again. Leave the inner screws untouched and begin with the outer screws (marked with red) with indeed a perfect matching screwdriver head (with a big and long grip for your hand). This worked for me perfectly without damage. Success!

    S van Dam -

    When reassembling, do not fully tighten the two 11 mm (orange) screws. When the plastic starts to flex, back it off until the strain on the plastic housing is released and leave it at that. The two 7.25 mm (red) can be snug.

    steveeb33 - Réponse

    Same experience as David. Case warped and left screws a little loose.

    spadu79 - Réponse

  10. : étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips du côté de l'ordinateur correspondant au lecteur optique.

    • Deux vis Phillips n°00 5,2 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,3 mm x longueur 3,5 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).

    • Il est inutile de retirer les vis similaires présentes de l'autre côté de l'ordinateur.

    The screw farthest from the optical drive would not come out, all other screws came out fine with my screw driver and the screw looks ok, any tips on how to get the screw out?

    Aidan Morey - Réponse

    With some of the screws that can happen. I had it too. This did it for the MacBook I was repairing: 1. Open the MacBook. Then press firm but gentle on the upper case with your hand or fingers while trying to loosen the screw with your screwdriver. 2. I used a different screwdriver from the same size diameter but with a much larger hand-grip. Success!

    S van Dam -

  11. : étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Ne retirez pas complètement le boîtier supérieur, car il est encore relié à la carte mère par le ruban du pavé tactile et du clavier.

    • En commençant près de l'écran et en vous rapprochant de l'avant de l'ordinateur, soulevez le boîtier supérieur en faisant levier. Vous pouvez vous aider d'un médiator moyennement rigide pour cette opération.

    • Le boîtier supérieur risque d'adhérer à l'endroit où il est en contact avec le lecteur optique. Dans ce cas, dégagez d'abord les autres côtés, puis tirez sur le boîtier de chaque côté de l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

    • Si vous laissez la base posée, il se peut que vous retiriez quatre clips gris qui maintiennent le clavier en place. Pas de panique ! Ils s'insèrent dans quatre fentes situées dans le coin supérieur droit près du lecteur optique.

    There will be 4 grey plastic clips just right of the DVD drive. Note their position as they will fall out in the next steps.

    tim7866 - Réponse

    No such clips found on my early 2008 version.

    Ernie K -

    Thank you ifixit, it was huge help for me, I did it and everything just works great.....THANK YOU!

    Dako - Réponse

    As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.

    David Higgins - Réponse

    I had no problem at all in this step, the left side was already unlocked when I open the MacBook, the right side was a little tricky but i was able to pull it out in less than a minute

    manochu - Réponse

    The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.

    James Pearson Hughes - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip. Saved me!

    Joe -

    Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.

    Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.

    Thomas - Réponse

    When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.

    Andrew Dent - Réponse

    I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?

    Eliza - Réponse

    If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.

    frood - Réponse

    Wow, pulling both up and to the left made all the difference for me, to unstick the keyboard around the optical drive.

    Neil Steiner -

    I think it is a mistake to separate the keyboard from the clips at the right side (above the optical drive) at all! Instead, after freeing the other three sides, just slide the keyboard slightly to the left, and leave the clips attached to the keyboard. For reassembly, just put the keyboard in its approximate place and slide it to the right to get those clips into position. Be sure the keyboard is really snug against the machine’s case. Then press the other three edges of the keyboard down.

    jeh -

    The plastic around the edge is very thin and cracks easily, so be gentle while using the opening tool.

    Henry S - Réponse

    On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.

    Hendryk1982 - Réponse

    this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!

    Chinarut Ruangchotvit - Réponse

  12. : étape 12, image 1 de 3 : étape 12, image 2 de 3 : étape 12, image 3 de 3
    • Tout en tenant le boîtier supérieur d'une main, tirez sur la languette noire du câble argenté pour débrancher son connecteur.

    • S'il n'y a pas de languette, servez-vous d'un spudger et faites levier sur le connecteur afin de le débrancher. Le connecteur est haut. Veillez à le maintenir bien droit pendant l'opération.

    • Si vous rompez le câble lors du retrait du boîtier supérieur, sachez que vous pouvez l'acquérir en tant que pièce détachée et que nous proposons un guide pour faciliter son remplacement.

    • Une fois le boîtier supérieur démonté, vous aurez peut-être envie de saisir l'opportunité de le débarrasser de cheveux, de poussière, etc. Le mieux, c'est d'utiliser un petit soufflet, même si vous pouvez prendre une brosse. Si c'est la cas, veillez à utiliser des poils naturels non électrostatiques pour ne pas nuire aux composants électroniques.

    • Quatre clips en plastique gris sont présents sur le côté du clavier correspondant au lecteur optique. Lors du remontage, veillez à bien les insérer dans leurs logements pour que le clavier s'enclenche en position.

    • Pour faciliter le remontage, il est préférable de retirer les clips d'abord en tirant vers le haut doucement. Faites attention de ne pas mettre trop de force parce qu'ils casseront..

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your macbook!

    spi - Réponse

    The entire connector broke off the logic board when I was disconnecting the keyboard just now. Be extremely careful!

    Chris - Réponse

    I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?

    Roger - Réponse

    I could not get the keyboard off my the body... (black macbook I don't know if that makes any difference). It was stuck bottom left hand corner, so I had to bend whatever was stuck to get access to the logicboard etc... any reason why this is the case??

    Takuma - Réponse

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    carlos - Réponse

    Great repair guide! Changing the top case was pretty easy and it saved me a lot of money.

    Harry - Réponse

    it was really easy, i had no experience whatsoever installing or unistalling mac parts (or pc either). it just took me less than 25 minutes, and i just finish and Im typing from my new upper case keyboard.

    manochu - Réponse

    After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!

    jgreengold - Réponse

    Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...

    jgreengold - Réponse

    Citation de carlos :

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    E Chambliss - Réponse

    Citation de E Chambliss :

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    carlos - Réponse

    Citation de carlos :

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    Repair232323 - Réponse

    Citation de Francisco :

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts

    carlos - Réponse

    Citation de spi :

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!

    How do you do it? I can't get it out

    Superb guide thank you guys

    eli - Réponse

    This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.

    Andrew Dent - Réponse

    Be very careful while you pulling the black tab! It's better to use spudger to pry the connector from it's housing while you gently pulling the black tab.

    eaksut - Réponse

    Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.

    Johhnie Doe - Réponse

    After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(

    Sorry my bad english!

    glecyo medeiros - Réponse

    Getting the upper-case/keyboard off was a bit nerve-wracking. Just work away at it carefully, bit by bit.

    A small torch (flashlight for our American friends) was handy to see what was happening underneath the upper-case. Otherwise too dark.

    I used a photographic lens-cleaning blower (with the rubber squeeze bulb, just the blower, no brush) to get away the dust. Probably not as effective as canned air, but it worked well enough. I’d recommend avoiding touching anything with the tip of the blower. Keep it a few mm away.

    Les Kitchen - Réponse

    After removing the keyboard I noticed that the side clips were not attached to the body but rather to the keyboard still. Easily removed but something to note.

    Philip Lynes - Réponse

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    : étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Use the white plastic pull-tab to slide the hard drive to the left and out of the computer.

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    : étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board.

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    : étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the newly-revealed display data cable. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.

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    : étape 16, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the (once again) newly-revealed hard drive cable.

    I used this guide because my hard drive was not recognized when connected internally, whereas it was bootable when connected externally through a sata-usb adapter.

    I found out that this connector of step 16 was not tightly plugged.

    I re-plugged it firmly, and now it seems to work!

    yakk - Réponse

    Help please! I've just followed this guide because a replacement hard drive was not seating properly. I've put everything back together and turned the Macbook on only to find that the display stays black. What have I done wrong?

    Alan Simpson - Réponse

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    : étape 17, image 1 de 1
    • Deroute the hard drive connector cable from the four tabs along the edge of the optical drive.

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    : étape 18, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive connector to the lower case.

    These 2 screws stay with the connector and come with the new connector. At least the one I bought from ifixit did.

    Walter Lawler - Réponse

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    : étape 19, image 1 de 1
    • Carefully lift the hard drive connector out of the case slightly, and turn it over to reveal the IR sensor connector beneath. Use a spudger to flip up the tiny bar holding the cable in place.

    • Slide the orange IR sensor cable out of its connector, and lift the hard drive connector out of the computer.

    I need to replace the ir sensor. Do you carry that and how do i replace that part. I also need the rubber pieces that hold the hard drive on the

    Kent Lucas - Réponse

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iRobot

Membre depuis le 09/24/09

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Thanks for this very details explanation…very useful to me ;)

ethber - Réponse

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