Introduction
This guide contains instructions for using the old-style iFixit adhesive remover with separate bottle and syringe, which is no longer sold. For the updated version, click here.
Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease. The battery is made up of six distinct cells, four of which are adhered to the upper case.
iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.
For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.
Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics, such as the MacBook Pro's plastic speaker enclosures. Take care when applying the solvent.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
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Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.
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Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
I also skipped this step as this data cable is not compromising the exchange of battery and less interaction with connectors is less risk of damage..
Diesen Schritt habe ich ebenfalls weggelassen, da das Datenkabel den Austausch der Batterie nicht behindert und weniger Manipulationen an Steckverbindern bedeutet ein geringeres Risiko für Beschädigungen
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
As per my comment on step 10, this is also not required. When you remove the SSD in step 22, you can just fold it over out of the way.
This step is easy enough that I’d just remove it to be out of the way. I 100% agree with your other comments though. While you’re here, might as well do step 21 and remove the drive, just takes a sec.
I also strongly recommend not to unmount the speaker plugs, just flip them out of the way, same as with the SSD drive. Makes it much less complicated and less risky. It worked perfect for me.
Ich empfehle ebenfalls, die Platinenstecker der Lautsprecher nicht zu lösen sondern die Lautsprecher einfach, so wie das SSD-Laufwerk, einfach aus dem Weg zu legen. Das macht die Sache weniger kompliziert und weniger risikoreich. Es hat bei mir super funktioniert!
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Wedge the pointed end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.
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Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
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One black 6.8 mm screw
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One silver 6.3 mm screw
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One black 4.9 mm screw
If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)
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Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.
For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
For an easier, lower-risk repair, skip this step and step 18 - go straight to step 19 and fold the speaker out of the way.
Agreed, this is the way
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Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.
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Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
It's easier to follow Step 19 & 20 first and then come to Step 18 (this step). Doing so will make it easier to remove that speaker connector easily holding the cable of speaker without having to use a pry tool.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
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One black 6.8 mm screw
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One silver 6.3 mm screw
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One black 4.9 mm screw
Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!
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Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.
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While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
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Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.
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Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
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Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:
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Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.
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Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
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Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.
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Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.
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With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
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Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.
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Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.
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Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
2 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Un commentaire
Step 14 and Step 18 (disconnecting the speakers) are not really useful. But there should be a reason I didn’t catch for these steps. Thank you by the way, it was really clear and it worked perfectly!
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Réponse
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Réponse
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - Réponse