Aller au contenu principal

MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement

Ce dont vous avez besoin

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Lower Case: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    J'achète
    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Réponse

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Réponse

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Réponse

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Réponse

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Réponse

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Réponse

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Réponse

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - Réponse

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - Réponse

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - Réponse

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - Réponse

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman - Réponse

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest - Réponse

    I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?

    Honeybee94 - Réponse

    DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.

    Paul Lebow - Réponse

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Réponse

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Réponse

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Réponse

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 3, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Réponse

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - Réponse

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Battery Connector: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Réponse

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Réponse

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - Réponse

    After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?

    Phillip Ngwenya - Réponse

    Is replacing the battery necessary?

    Ralph Louis - Réponse

    How do we know if it's necessary to replace the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board?

    What are the factors that would require that?

    Lux - Réponse

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 5, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 5, image 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Réponse

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Réponse

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Réponse

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Réponse

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - Réponse

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - Réponse

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - Réponse

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu - Réponse

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?

    Chris Andrews -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO - Réponse

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem - Réponse

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest - Réponse

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis - Réponse

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Réponse

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Réponse

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark - Réponse

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Heat Sink: étape 7, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Heat Sink: étape 7, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Heat Sink: étape 7, image 3 de 3
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

    For reassembly, I found it easier to loosen the lone top left 2.4 mm Phillips #000 before putting the fan bumper back in.

    Boston Hampton - Réponse

    I don’t think you need to remove the heat sink for this

    Mike C - Réponse

    you need to remove the heat sink for this

    Fran Werttt - Réponse

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 8, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

    How should I reapply those little foam stickers? I guess not with normal glue.

    bboy.sidekick - Réponse

    I found that the adhesive came up with the foam except for one screw. The adhesive just stuck to the head of the screw so I left it intact as much as possible and just pressed the foam back on. It doesn’t take much to keep them in place.

    Ryan Sooley - Réponse

    If the new Logc Board coms with a heat sink attached, It is not necessary to remove the old one. Just unscrew the screw in the left corner of the heat sink and screws of the fan as well.

    Viktor Simeonov - Réponse

    Est-ce grave si on les a perdu ?

    Louis BONIN - Réponse

    The tiny rubber foam stickers help to keep the distance between the aluminium back cover and the black heat sink. I would recommend to install them or look for something similar.

    dvelasquez - Réponse

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

    The cross-head screwdriver bit was not the #000, the #00 was the right one.

    Benjamin Hug - Réponse

    For my mac, the cross-head screwdriver bit was not the #000, was the T5

    maestrorafael - Réponse

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 10, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 10, image 2 de 2

    I bought all the tools necessary from iFixit except for the cleaning solutions for this step. You can just use isopropyl alcohol with a microfiber cloth to clean the thermal paste off before re-applying a new coat.

    Ryan Sooley - Réponse

    Totally forgot the thermal paste when I bought the replacement fan. Then I needed to wait 2 days for some arctic silver 5 to arrive. All worked well in the end. I combined it with the batterie replacement, worked well together.

    Daniel - Réponse

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Fan: étape 11, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Fan: étape 11, image 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - Réponse

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - Réponse

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas - Réponse

    Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

    Holger - Réponse

    There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

    Josh - Réponse

    This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

    Xiaokun Xu - Réponse

    After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

    Ross Elkins - Réponse

    Thanks Ross! This was my 2nd time every opening a laptop and using two finger nails to push on the little indents worked amazing!

    Carolyn Wang - Réponse

    I pulled the cable directly and it got off easily.

    When assembling it,just used two fingernail on two sides of the plug and pushing it back。

    After all these,checked iSight working well。

    Junjie2021 - Réponse

    Is there any hope for me? I did this step wrong and the connector came off the motherboard. Can that piece be glued back in place?

    Leslie Nuss - Réponse

    I did this with the help of some sturdy toothpicks :)

    KamFix - Réponse

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 12, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 12, image 2 de 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 13, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 13, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 13, image 3 de 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - Réponse

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen - Réponse

    Take a close look at the spacing in the 3 photos. You essentially just flip the tab 90 degrees to stay vertical, then you pull the cable carefully out. When putting the new one in, no need to press hard. Just a little bit so you have that 2-3 mm spacing and then flip the tab back down.

    Daniel - Réponse

    During reassembly, before screwing down the fan, it is best to reinsert and lock down this cable.

    LSD - Réponse

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

    Steve Wechsler - Réponse

    I second this advice as I screwed the fan in first and then tried to plug the cable in and the angle required to get it in put too much tension and the plug separated from the cable (very fragile). So now I had to order a new one.

    Joe Healy - Réponse

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 15, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 15, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 15, image 3 de 3
    • Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - Réponse

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - Réponse

    Thanks to toodarkpark, it’s the priority to connect the cable of Fan before place it on position completely.

    If reverse the step, it will become ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to insert the cable.

    Junjie2021 - Réponse

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: étape 16, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: étape 16, image 2 de 2
    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 17, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 17, image 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 18, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 18, image 2 de 2
    • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

    • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 19, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 19, image 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 20, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 20, image 2 de 2
    • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    Having a hard time at this step. Any suggestions? it's just not walking out.

    Moki - Réponse

    Use your fingernails to pinch the sides of the clip inwards to release the connector. I couldn’t walk it out either, both sides needed to be pushed in simultaneously to pull it out of the socket.

    maccentric - Réponse

    Do not pull from the cables end. you will risk separating thin cables from connector head. Use spudger tip to push it out.

    Macrepair SF - Réponse

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 21, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 21, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 21, image 3 de 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 22, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 22, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 22, image 3 de 3
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 23, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 23, image 2 de 2
    • Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 24, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 24, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 24, image 3 de 3
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 25, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 25, image 2 de 2
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 26, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 26, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 26, image 3 de 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

    • Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 27, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 27, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 27, image 3 de 3
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 28, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 28, image 2 de 2
    • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 29, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 29, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 29, image 3 de 3
    • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

  30. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 30, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 30, image 2 de 2
    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    I didn’t pay enough attention when I pulled the ribbon cable out, so trying to figure out how to reattach it was quite challenging for me. After searching unsuccessfully for videos/instructions on how to reattach, I finally figured out that the ribbon cable goes UNDER the black plastic part of the socket (closest to the ribbon), and then you push the little tab down to hold it in place. Hope this helps others who are struggling with this part. Otherwise, this was an amazing tutorial, and saved my macbook…

    CRI - Réponse

  31. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 31, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • When reassembling, install all five screws loosely, position the logic board, and then tighten evenly.

  32. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 32, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 32, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 32, image 3 de 3
    • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    • When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, MagSafe, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.

    • Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

  33. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement, Dual Microphone Assembly: étape 33, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

  34. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 34, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 34, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 34, image 3 de 3
    • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it toward the battery to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

  35. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 35, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the case-edge of the battery contact board.

  36. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 36, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 36, image 2 de 2
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the rubber microphone cable cover to detach the adhesive there.

  37. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 37, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 37, image 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to wedge the battery contact board up slightly to allow room to extract the dual microphone assembly.

  38. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 38, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 38, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 38, image 3 de 3
    • Remove the rubber microphone cover with a set of tweezers

    • Be careful not to snag the cover on the screw post in the case or on the battery contact board.

  39. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 39, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 39, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 39, image 3 de 3
    • Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free that half from the upper case.

    • If the microphone is very resistant to prying, try heating it with an iOpener. Heating it will soften the adhesive and minimize the risk of tearing the cable.

  40. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 40, image 1 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 40, image 2 de 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 40, image 3 de 3
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.

  41. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 41, image 1 de 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 Dual Microphone Assembly Replacement: étape 41, image 2 de 2
    • Pull the dual microphone cable assembly up and toward the logic board recess to remove it from the upper case.

    • Be very careful not to snag the cable on the screw post in the case or the battery contact board.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Une autre personne a terminé cette réparation.

Sam Goldheart

Membre depuis le 10/18/12

465 119 Réputation

538 tutoriels rédigés

Équipe

iFixit Membre de l'équipe iFixit

Staff

135 membres

16 476 tutoriels rédigés

2 commentaires

Very clear and concise, thank you.

T Col - Réponse

Where can you get the replacement microphone? Do you have the part number?

Hanks Caddy - Réponse

Ajouter un commentaire

Nombre de vues :

Dernières 24 heures : 2

7 derniers jours : 9

30 derniers jours : 19

Total : 6,368