Introduction
Consultez ce tutoriel pour remplacer l'ensemble écran complet de votre MacBook Pro, si celui-ci est fissuré ou défectueux. Cet ensemble inclut également les nappes intégrées parfois touchées par le défaut “FlexGate” sur les modèles moins récents. Le remplacer résoudra l'effet “stage lights” et les autres problèmes liés aux nappes abîmées.
Pour des raisons de sécurité, laissez la batterie de votre MacBook Pro se vider en dessous de 25 % avant de vous lancer.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Allumez votre Mac et lancez Terminal.
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Copiez-collez ou tapez la commande suivante dans Terminal :
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Cliquez sur la touche [return]. Si nécessaire, saisissez votre mot de passe d'admin et cliquez sur la touche [return]. Remarque : il est possible que cette touche porte le symbole ⏎ ou l'inscription "enter".
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Servez-vous d'un tournevis Pentalobe P5 pour retirer les six vis fixant le boîtier inférieur :
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Deux vis de 6,2 mm
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Quatre vis de 3,4 mm
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
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Appliquez une ventouse sur le boîtier inférieur, à côté de la partie centrale avant du MacBook Pro.
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Soulevez la poignée de la ventouse pour créer un léger espace entre le boîtier inférieur et le châssis.
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Insérez le coin d'un médiator dans l'espace créé entre le boîtier et le châssis.
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Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord le plus proche, puis de la première moitié du côté du boîtier.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
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Insérez à nouveau votre médiator sous le bord avant du boîtier inférieur, à côté de l'un des deux trous de vis du milieu.
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Faites fermement pivoter le médiator pour ouvrir le troisième clip qui maintient le boîtier inférieur et le châssis.
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Répétez la manipulation à côté de l'autre trou pour défaire le quatrième clip.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
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Poussez fermement le boîtier inférieur vers l'avant du MacBook (en l'éloignant de la charnière) pour séparer le dernier des clips qui fixent le boîtier.
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Tirez d'abord un coin, puis l'autre.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
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Ôtez le boîtier inférieur.
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Pour réinstaller le boîtier inférieur :
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Mettez-le en place et alignez les clips de fixation près de la charnière de l'écran. Appuyez et faites glisser le boîtier vers la charnière. Il devrait s'arrêter de glisser lorsque les clips s'emboîtent.
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Lorsque les clips coulissants sont complètement emboîtés et que le boîtier inférieur semble correctement aligné, appuyez fermement sur celui-ci pour emboîter les quatre clips cachés en dessous. Vous devriez les sentir et entendre s'enclencher.
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Décollez soigneusement le gros morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre le connecteur de la batterie, du côté de la carte mère le plus proche de la batterie.
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Retirez le morceau de ruban adhésif.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
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Décollez soigneusement le petit morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre le connecteur de la nappe de données de la puce de la batterie.
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Servez-vous de la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour retourner le petit clapet noir qui fixe la nappe au connecteur.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
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Déconnectez la batterie en soulevant délicatement le connecteur d'alimentation de la batterie avec une spatule.
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Soulevez le connecteur de façon à ce qu'il ne risque pas de toucher sa prise. Un contact accidentel pendant la réparation pourrait endommager votre MacBook Pro.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
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Dévissez les quatre vis Torx T3 de 1,9 mm qui fixent les caches en plastique en haut des charnières de l'écran.
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Retirez les deux cache-charnières en plastique.
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Retirez les deux vis Torx T3 de 2,9 mm qui fixent le cache en aluminium en haut de la nappe principale de l'écran.
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Enlevez le cache.
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Dévissez les quatre vis Torx T3 de 1,5 mm qui maintiennent les deux caches en aluminium sur les connecteurs des deux nappes d'écran.
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Ôtez les deux caches en aluminium avec une pincette.
What is the exact size of these screws? lost one trying to put it back in and trying to figure out what I need to buy
Is this step necessary? actually i did it, but when installing the new screen, i found the 2 aluminum covers already in the new screen, so i installed the new one without taking them out…
after it worked, i believe we can skip this step.
my laptop is 2017 15”, 1707
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Enlevez les deux vis Torx T5 de 3,9 mm qui fixent de chaque côté l'ensemble antenne.
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Dévissez également les six vis Pentalobe P2 de 1,1 mm qui se trouvent de chaque côté.
The 1,1mm screws are completly stuck, I have the screwdrivers but the screws are just not turning. Any tips how to take them off ?
I tried other screwdrivrer and put a rubber on it while trying to take it off but nothing works,
Had the same problem with my ‘quality’ P2 screwdriver. A dirt cheap set from Ya Xun, nr. YX-6025 saved the day
The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.
Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)
Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.
F# Apple for making pentalobe screws and f# them for using this many.
Wiha calls the P2 driver a 1PL
Pay attention: in both sides the two 3,9 mm T5 Torx screws they are different from each other.
DO NOT mix then otherwise you will won’t be able to install then again correctly.
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Prenez une pincette pour déconnecter les trois câbles coaxiaux de la carte mère tout droit vers le haut.
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Glissez votre pince ou l'extrémité plate de votre spatule (spudger) sous chaque câble jusqu'à ce qu'il soit près de la prise, puis tournez doucement ou faites levier pour le débrancher.
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Retirez avec précaution l'ensemble antenne, tout en faisant passer le faisceau de câbles d'antenne sous le caloduc.
Reversing this step was the hardest part for me. There is a small “tunnel” that runs under the heat pipe which the 3 antenna cables plus the securing bracket must be threaded through. The shortest cable easily got stuck or pushed off to the side under the heat pipe. After many attempts, I found success by bending the 3 wires ever so slightly to the left before inserting them in the tunnel, so that when they make it through the tunnel, they were more prone to stay straight. It was easy to grab them one by one with tweezers by doing that. Just have to be very careful.
To easily fit the antenna cables – turn the whole antenna assembly about 90 degrees ccw and wiggle it a bit back and forth. Since the cables are a bit prebent they quite easily “pops” up – no need to tie them together. The last trick is to not forget the metal tab – using tweezers or a spudger to help guide the tab in position.
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Enlevez l'ensemble antenne.
I had a LOT of trouble re-installing the three antenna cables underneath the heat pipe! The only way I could get them through was to use clear tape to bind the three antenna connectors together tightly into one pointy end. I was able to push that through into place, but I was not able to push the three separate wires through.
It’s possible to avoid this problem by just not removing the antenna assembly entirely. I secured the three cables and the screw holder together with a small cable tie to avoid them slipping out. You can fit the new screen without removing the assembly completely.
Thanks dkraermer2 for that tip of wrapping all 3 wires into a narrow point. I used Capton tape. The metal screw holder needed help as it catches on a ridge in the MB. I used tweezers to “Lift” it over that last ridge.
Make sure the antenna cable assembly locates correctly on reassembly. It is important to install this down onto its locating lugs, not pushing from the rear of the machine towards the front. There is a small ‘u’ shaped cutout on bottom of the assembly and a metal tab which must locate into the corresponding ‘u’ shaped lug and slot cut into the metal of the top case. If this is not located correctly there is a good chance that the screen will foul when opening and closing resulting in an audible click as it catches the antenna assembly.
+1 for BrianS comment. The U shape is a placeholder for the antenna and is located at antenna center. If this ever happened to you, fold gently the antenna strip to leave 3 mm space from the antenna main block, and place the antenna center first in oder for the antenna to fit into the U shape properly.
+1 to both BrianS and Xavier Fischer’s comments above. Even when the lug and the cutout are identified, it’s not easy to tell if it’s been seated correctly until you test the hinge. I found Xavier’s suggestion worked.
Putting the three antenna cables to snap onto the connectors again, It felt like I succeeded after much struggle. But after putting it all together - the screen is black. External monitor works though. 2 of 3 feels certain though as it seems on place.
Once all 16 antenna screws are removed along with single screw securing wifi simply loosen the antenna and while holding each end , ROTATE it and pull away gently so as to not disturb the bend of the wifi wires passing thru the heat pipe. The wires are never physically touched and they keep their “natural” bend. To reassemble, holding antenna, guide the two wi-fi wires and the securing lug thru heat pipe as the antenna is rotated into place . There is a very narrow milled slot on the underside that the antennas metal shield must fit into or else it will cause the snapping clicking noise ( spoken of earlier in this guide )as the display assembly hangs up during its opening / closing. Make sure if need be, the spacing between the metal shield and plastic body of antenna is the same as the ridge between the milled slot and the milled out area moving towards rear of palm rest. Alignment is important.
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Retirez les quatre vis Torx T3 de 3,9 mm qui fixent les ressorts des caches des deux nappes de l'écran.
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Saisissez le côté gauche de l'ensemble nappes d'écran et tirez-le vers l'extrémité inférieure du MacBook et éloignez-le du ressort du cache.
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À l'aide d'une pincette, extrayez le ressort du cache gauche des nappes hors de son support.
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Répétez la procédure avec le ressort du cache droit de l'ensemble nappe d'écran.
When placing back the holder for the display cable I used the wrong length screws and the bolts connected to the connector strip came off. Is this a concern as I am having back light issues in that I can see the outline of an image but its very dim. Thank you.
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Placez délicatement votre ordinateur portable, clavier vers le bas, sur le bord d'une table, de manière à ce que l'écran pende tout droit.
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Desserrez, sans les enlever, les six vis Torx T8 qui fixent les charnières.
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Maintenez le corps principal contre la table et ouvrez complètement l'écran.
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Soutenez l'écran d'une main et utilisez votre main libre pour retirer les six vis Torx T8 qui fixent les charnières.
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Tenez fermement le corps principal de votre MacBook d'une main.
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Avec votre main libre, poussez le côté gauche de l'écran vers le haut, donc vers le bas de votre ordinateur portable, pour dégager la charnière gauche.
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Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à l'originale. Vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou décoller les films adhésifs de la pièce neuve avant de la monter.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide.
Comparez votre pièce de remplacement à l'originale. Vous devrez peut-être transférer les composants restants ou décoller les films adhésifs de la pièce neuve avant de la monter.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes ci-dessus en sens inverse.
Apportez vos déchets électroniques à un recycleur certifié R2 ou e-Stewards.
La réparation ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu ? Consultez nos conseils basiques de diagnostic ou notre communauté de réponses pour obtenir de l’aide.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
82 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
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33 commentaires
your mom.
all joking aside, its the communication between the logic board and the battery controller (cycle count, battery health etc)
What is the exact P2 bit you need to remove the 12 screws holding the antenna bar? I ordered a P2 bit on Amazon that says it’s 0.8mm P2 bit and it’s too big. Not sure if they shipped me the wrong one or what. Been trying to find out exactly what bit to use and no luck so far.
Pentalobe P1L from Wiha tools fits perfectly.
What about the display ribbon cable ?
I have a bad cable and don’t want to spend 400 on display assy when the cable is available on this site for 25
Were you able to do this successfully? I am in this exact situation and am having a hard time finding anything on it. Which ribbon cable is needed?
I will be doing this in couple of days.
I have screen and the tools.
I need to replace the battery board data cable and cannot find it. Any suggestions?
thank you
faithey
Fantastic guide! Only difference on my MB Pro was that all the T5’s were T4’s. Satisfied knowing Apple didn’t get me for this repair! HaHa!
Is this guide valid for the 2019 model as well?
Followed this to the letter, and now my MacBook won’t power up, charge or anything. I’m devastated - and it was just the screen that was not working before.
Any advice other than the usual resets, etc? I don’t want to think that I wrecked the Logic Board…
I had the exact same thing happen and now I dont know what to do.
What happened in your case? was the board totally fried?
When reassembling the screen (hinge), it is better to temporarily tape the ribbon cable to the back of the screen; ensuring the cable and the screen circuit board not to mistakenly be positioned on top of the keyboard or accidentaly fold/squeeze the ribbon cable by the hinge.
I almost ripped the ribbon cable with the middle hinge when trying to put the screen hinge back into its place.
I did it but didn’t do the auto boot and now it won’t turn on any idea on how I could fix this
So I replaced my screen. Works perfectly, but my touch bar is not working anymore! It shows everything, but I cannot touch operate it anymore. I guess I didn't damage anything. It's strange… where is the cable connected, so I can check if anything is wrong?
I have the same issue, and I can’t manually adjust screen brightness anymore.
same issue, The brightness setting is no available anymore and the touch function of the TouchBar too.
why does the display replacement for the non touch bar model link to the touch bar one when they are different internally?
These steps worked well and I have successfully replaced my screen! My a1706 Touch Bar has one issue - the screen brightness can’t be adjusted any more. Anyone be got any tips? I can’t do it via the display menu either.
Amazing, really appreciate it, you helped me doing a successful installation.
Thank you for the procedure it’s really clear ! After the replacement, i lost two functions : the setting of the brightness and the touch function of the TouchBar ( it works but there is not action when i touch the TouchBar…even after SMC and NVRAM intialization …). An idea about how to fix this issue ?
Super Tutoriel. Attention faire des photos du MacBook Pro 13 pouce. Car les tapes pour débrancher l’alimentation et l’antenne ne sont pas pareilles.
The instructions worked to perfection. However, when rebooting to go back to terminal and turn autoboot back on I cannot open any applications at all and the computer is sluggish. So that said I cannot open terminal. What could be the issue?
One thing that I think may be issue for apps not opening is I may possibly have damaged the battery board data cable connector as I completely missed the part about it having a release clip. I have ordered a new one hoping that fixes the issue. If anyone has any other ideas please reply.
Excellent guide. Thanks for putting this together. My first time doing anything like this but installation was successful.
I am wanting to convert my 2017 MacBook Pro to a headless set up because the screen stopped working and wanted to know if I can keep the antennas connected and just unscrew them when taking the screen off? Or are they connected to the display like in previous models?
A1708 I believe
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Réponse
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Réponse
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Réponse
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Réponse
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Réponse
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Réponse
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Réponse
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Réponse
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Réponse
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Réponse
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Réponse
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'
to display the current state, the default istrue
- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=false
which turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Réponse
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Réponse
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Réponse
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Réponse
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Réponse
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd
(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Réponse
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Réponse
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Réponse
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Réponse
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Réponse
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Réponse
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Réponse
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Réponse
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Réponse
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -