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Introduction
Pré-requis interne.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe haut-parleur droit/subwoofer placée sous le dispositif de retenue moulé dans le boîtier supérieur.
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Tirez la nappe haut-parleur droite/subwoofer vers le haut pour débrancher le connecteur de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.
The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.
thank you great suggestion
Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.
Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.
Same, any suggestion about its replacement?
Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!
In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...
To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Die Metallverbindung besteht aus zwei Teilen. Der kabelferne Teil drückt den Stecker nach unten. Der kabelferne Teil ist ein festgelöteter Schuh. Mit Hilfe einer dünnen Präpariernadel konnte ich den kabelzugewandten, beweglichen Metall-Teil der Verbindung zum einen horizontal herausschieben, zum anderen habe ich gleichzeitig gezogen. Nicht zu viel Kraft beim Ziehen aufwenden.
Mir hat geholfen, ein Makrofoto vom Stecker zu machen, um ihn zu verstehen.
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Déconnectez les quatre nappes suivantes :
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Nappe AirPort/Bluetooth
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Nappe du lecteur optique
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Nappe du disque dur
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Nappe du pavé tactile
On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.
Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.
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Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe du clavier de sa prise.
Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks
No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.
I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.
Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!
Gryyphyn -
Amazing this saved me!
You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in
Tunipguy -
Thanks! This saved me hours!
Thank you so much. Very clever idea that works like a charm!
Thank you so much! After 15 minutes of frustration, it inserted in less than 5 seconds.
I didin't read this before, but it was the idea i had in the moment... after 30 minutes of struggle. Thanks!
The tape tip is amazing! Worked first time, perfectly!
aliado -
I read all these comments and immediately thought if I can’t feed this through there how am I going to feed the tape through? This part isn’t sticky.
Oh. The tape is to pull it. Jeje. How silly.
When the time comes you will figure out how important the tape trick is. I promise.
Thank you soooo much!!!!
Billie -
After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.
It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.
The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!
Thanks so much. This trick saved the day!!!!
One alternative method to the tape trick that worked for me goes as follows:
0. To prevent possible damage, please do everything listed very gently.
1. First, slide one of the corners of the cable into the socket. If the corner is properly fitted, the cable shouldn't go up when you stop holding it down with your hand.
2. Next, slide the corner to its corresponding side (eg: if you slid the right corner, then push it to right). This should leave you with one side of the cable more tucked in than the other; but the whole cable is now in the socket.
3. Gently, try to push the cable the whole way in. At this point it's trial and error, but it's faster than trying to slide the whole cable at once in my experience.
If the cable is correctly inserted, the white lines on it should all be "connected" or under the black top part of the socket. -
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Si présent, décollez le petit morceau de bande adhésive noire recouvrant la prise de la nappe du rétro-élairage du clavier.
This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.
I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.
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Retirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier de sa prise.
The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.
What the part name, i accidently broken this part
Hi! I accidently popped the conector from the logic board. I bought a replacement, but im not sure how to glue/sold it to the board again. Can you help?
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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du voyant de la batterie/du capteur veille pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.
I forgot to place this tiny flex cable on top of the mainboard, and tried to recover it from under (lazy!) so I broke it.
In general I would tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.
Update: the computer works even without this feature. Of course the led battery indicator does not work, but it is not a big loss.
Does it still sleep properly?
The flat battery indicator cable sits directly underneath the headphone jack/port and then goes to the top on the right side of the battery screw. If you forgot to put it underneath the port when reinserting the logic board (which leads to the battery not fitting), carefully slide it underneath the port into the small available space with a spudger.
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
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Retirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:
"Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."
Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.
Hans -
My display is not working after reassemble the mac.
Any reason?
I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!
I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.
I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.
When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?
Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon
My display is not working after I put everything back together, can hear the macbook chime. Tried shining light onto the display, see nothing. Tried loosening the screw slightly like someone suggested here, that does not help either. Tried cleaning the contacts of the LVDS cable, nothing. Any help appreciated.
Found a solution: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjIQXwit...
This resolved it for me. My clasp wasn’t didn’t seem worn in any way but it seemed when it was clamped it caused the short circuit causing my screen to be black upon turning on. Lifting the clasp immediately resolved it. Odd issue! Thanks very much for the video. Incredibly helpful.
Same problem as other users here at this point. I screwed the casing a little, and it worked, but I like to do things properly.
If you want to fix it 1) open your computer.
2) the flex of the screen has a kind of little lock made on wire.
3) put the lock around the connection you should ear a little sound when it reach the good position. Make sure the tongue of the flex is above of the lock. And then it is fixed.
Wish it helps and sorry by my English.
Idk how to include photos
When reinstalling the cable, it is quite easier to do WITHOUT the display data cable retainer (step 17), in case you are reassembling everything in reverse order, as said in the guide's conclusion.
While this can make the resitting of the cable easier, one of the retainer's screws is directly below the cable, so you'll probably have to do some funny screwing to reinstall the retainer. -
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Retirez les neuf vis suivantes :
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Cinq vis Torx T6 de 3,6 mm
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Deux vis Torx T6 de 4,3 mm
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Deux vis Torx T6 de 7,2 mm
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Cinq vis Torx T6 de 3,0 mm
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Deux vis Torx T6 de 3,6 mm
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Deux vis Torx T6 de 6,7 mm
2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.
I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.
Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).
For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.
Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.
for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described
on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.
Well on my mid 2012 MacBook Pro the screw heads are definitely not T6 but rather J000. Will place the removed screws on a paper drawing of logic board. Good tip ….
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Retirez les deux vis suivantes :
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Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm
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Une vis cruciforme de 5,5 mm
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Retirez le dispositif de retenue du câble de donnés de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
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Avec la pointe d'une spatule, décollez délicatement le microphone de la bande adhésive le fixant au boîtier supérieur.
I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.
when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.
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En faisant attention aux nombreux connecteurs près ses bords, soulevez la carte mère du côté le plus proche du lecteur optique.
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Sans la tordre, manipulez la carte mère pour l'enlever du boîtier supérieur, en veillant à ce que la connexion flexible avec la carte de raccordement (MagSafe /DC-In) ne reste pas accrochée dans le boîtier supérieur.
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Ôtez la carte mère.
I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?
I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.
I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.
ej257lgt -
Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?
If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.
If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!
I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.
The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.
Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.
The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard
I removed the battery …. helps getting the logic board out.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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Une autre personne a terminé cette réparation.
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Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.
Lee Hughart - Réponse
Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.
Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.
So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.
acupton86 - Réponse
I’ve broken the connector of the speaker (on the logic board) by installing it in the wrong way.
Now, I ordered the connector from aliexpress, and have to do some micro soldering and hopefully it’ll work.
Be careful guys
iAziz - Réponse
This one took me a moment to figure out. I also have the foam pad and couldn't see where the socket begins. Use the flat end of the spudger and go underneath the red/black cable part close to the socket, then slowly lift it up until it loosens a little, then do the same on the other side.
Chris - Réponse
This is a top-down connector. To remove, use a spudger from underneath. To insert, just push on from top gently.
Person37 - Réponse