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Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011

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  1. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011, Boîtier inférieur: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les dix vis suivantes :

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 14,4 mm

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    • Quatre vis à épaulement Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    • Quand vous replacerez les petites vis, alignez-les perpendiculairement à la légère courbe de la coque (elles ne se vissent pas à la verticale).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Réponse

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Réponse

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Réponse

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Réponse

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Réponse

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

    Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.

    Patrick Langvardt - Réponse

    That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.

    Gary Register -

    Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.

    Degeorges - Réponse

    Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !

    Claire Miesch -

    Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

    Moritz - Réponse

    Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)

    Cinemated Man - Réponse

    What's the difference between the shouldered and non shouldered screws? They look exactly the same to me.

    MLNLRD - Réponse

  2. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 2, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 2, image 2 de 2
    • Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook.

    • Retirez le boîtier inférieur.

  3. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011, Connexion de la batterie: étape 3, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011, Connexion de la batterie: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • À l'aide de l'extrémité d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il convient d'appliquer l'effet de levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur. Faites attention aux coins des connecteurs, car ils se cassent facilement.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Réponse

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Réponse

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Réponse

    I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

    Reinhard Kaune - Réponse

    I whittled down ends of two wooden strips to use, along with my fingernails to start with. I used halves of a wooden clothespin, but popsicle sticks should work too.

    Mike Baker - Réponse

  4. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Repliez légèrement le câble de la batterie vers l'arrière pour éviter qu'il ne se reconnecte accidentellement à la prise sur la carte mère pendant que vous travaillez.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Réponse

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Réponse

    I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

    colleenthompson - Réponse

    Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

    First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

    I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe

    2

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

    an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!

    Stefan Lindner - Réponse

  5. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011, Disque dur: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez les deux vis Phillips par lesquelles le support du disque dur est fixé au boîtier supérieur.

    • Ces vis captives sont intégrées au support du disque dur.

    These were Philips #0 screws in my computer.

    Church Tucker - Réponse

    FYI my used Mac didn’t have the bracket or screws. 3D printed the bracket someone did (it’s on Thingiverse), M2x10mm screws were short but worked.

    sbierly - Réponse

  6. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le support du disque dur.

    • Il est possible que le support du disque dur soit solidement calé contre le boîtier supérieur.

    Don't miss this step: I almost did and of course couldn't get the disk out until I looked at the video !

    francistasset - Réponse

  7. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Tirez sur la languette d'extraction attachée au disque dur pour le sortir du boîtier supérieur.

    • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement le disque dur pour le moment. Il est toujours relié au câble du disque dur.

  8. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 8, image 1 de 2 Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 8, image 2 de 2
    • Débranchez le câble du disque dur de la coque du disque dur.

    • Retirez le disque dur.

    The hard drive cable is a recalled part on these machines. You may need to replace it before your drive will be read correctly. The Apple Store will replace your cable for free if it's problematic.

    Eric March - Réponse

    @emarch wrote "The hard drive cable is a recalled part on these machines. You may need to replace it before your drive will be read correctly. The Apple Store will replace your cable for free if it's problematic."

    Thank you, Eric. This is excellent information. I'm reading this guide because my Mac booted with the flashing 'folder with question mark' icon. It turns out that my drive is no longer recognized internally, but thankfully it works okay through a USB hard drive adapter cable--phew. I read somewhere (on iFixit?) that some have had success by putting two layers of masking tape on the plastic around the data side of the SATA connector on the hard drive; supposedly this improves the fit and contact. I might try this or otherwise replace the cable (c/o Apple or DIY). Thanks again!

    Sean Stewart -

    dont forget to save the torx T6 screws froom your old hard drive and install in your new one if you are replaceing the HDD at the same time

    Charlie - Réponse

  9. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011, Câble du disque dur: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur du câble du disque dur pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  10. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Dévissez les quatre vis suivantes :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 3 mm

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 9,7 mm

    I have a mid-2009 MBP. Removing the 3mm screws was nearly impossible. I read that Apple uses loctite glue to secure the screws. Someone recommended touching the hot tip of a glue gun (minus the glue, of course) to the screw head. Doing so heats the screw and loosens the loctite. It worked well for the first one, I rushed the second and striped it so badly that I had to use a drill to bust up the screw head. I didn’t have a bit small enough to breakup the entire the screw, but I was able to pulverize the head so that the mounting surface was flat, which enabled me to install the new cable. At the moment, my cable is held in on that side by just the one screw and the weight of the hard drive. I’d like to replace the missing 3mm screw but I’d have to drill out the rest of the broken screw to have hole to put it in. Not exactly looking forward to that….perhaps if I just use some electrical tape to secure it down? On the upside, the new cable is working and my mac is up and running again.

    Jo

    jojojo5683 - Réponse

    Replacement screws can be bought on Amazon - search 3mm laptop computer screw kit

    jojojo5683 - Réponse

  11. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Détachez soigneusement la fine nappe du capteur IR/voyant LED veille de la bande adhésive qui la fixe au boîtier supérieur.

  12. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Ôtez le support avant du disque dur, qui contient le capteur IR et le voyant LED veille, du bord avant du boîtier supérieur.

  13. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Retirez le câble du disque dur.

    • Il se peut que votre pièce de rechange soit livrée avec plusieurs autocollants en mousse. Ils servent à bien ajuster à la fois la fixation et le disque dur. Utilisez-les seulement si nécessaire.

    The replacement cable comes without the sleep led attached. Thus you have to remove the flat cable of the sleep led from the socket of the old hd cable. Take your fingernail and lift the side of the socket opposite to the cable. It's really tiny! Afterwards insert the new cable and push gently on the part lifted up before.

    Skyynet - Réponse

    Hi. What is the purpose of the 5 black rubber pads that are shipped with the cable kit?

    coffeenow - Réponse

    Step 13 has the note: "Your replacement part may come with several adhesive foam bumpers. These are to ensure a snug fit of both bracket and hard drive. Apply only as needed." - This would be if the drive width had a gap and allowed it to move "sideways" in and out of the torx post holes. I didn't need them.

    prall -

    You can get the cable with or without the bracket and IR sensor assembly. Opt for with the bracket, makes it much easier.

    ** Note to iFixit, the install of the new cable would be much easier if the cable was pre folded where it bends up from the bottom where the two 3mm screw holes are. Thanks.

    Damian Holland - Réponse

    I followed the (as usual, excellent) instructions to the letter. Fortunately, my replacement cable came with the bracket and IR sensor assembly, so that was not a problem. But when I tried to boot the machine from the drive attached to the new cable, it just ended up with the flashing folder / question-mark icon again. I tried using a different drive - but the system still doesn't see it. The IR /sleep sensor works fine, FWIW. Is it possible that the new cable is defective - and/or: when the old cable shorted out thanks to worn away insulation, that something else got fried on the main logic board?

    Charles Ess - Réponse

    @djchuck71 I read somewhere (on iFixit?) that some have had success by putting two layers of masking tape on the plastic around the data side of the SATA connector on the hard drive; supposedly this improves the fit and contact. (Take care that the tape does not interfere with contacts.)

    Sean Stewart -

  14. Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 14, image 1 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 14, image 2 de 3 Remplacement de la nappe du disque dur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody fin 2011: étape 14, image 3 de 3
    • Votre pièce de rechange peut être livrée avec ou sans le support avant (du capteur). S'il n'y est pas, vous devrez le transférer sur le nouveau câble.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le connecteur ZIF sur le câble du disque dur.

    • Tirez doucement le câble du support du capteur hors du connecteur ZIF.

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, déconnectez le câble du disque dur du support du capteur.

    • Ôtez la bande adhésive à l'arrière du nouveau câble du disque dur, collez-la sur le support du capteur et connectez le câble du support du capteur.

    • De nombreux réparateurs couvrent la longueur du plus épais des deux câbles avec des morceaux de ruban adhésif isolant des deux côtés, car il peut frotter les crêtes du boîtier à l'intérieur du boîtier en aluminium et donc causer un court circuit sur le boîtier lui-même ou tout simplement briser la connexion.

    Very nice set of close up photos of the hard drive cable IR sensor ZIF connectory are here: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/708...

    Mark Mikofski - Réponse

    I would recommend using tweezers that come with the ifixit tool kit to properly insert the sensor bracket cable back into the sensor bracket. I had trouble with my computer in which the solution was that this step was not executed properly in my repair of the hard drive cable installation. I encourage everyone to make sure the bracket is fully and properly put back in the bracket otherwise the hard drive will appear to malfunction.

    chasethomas642 - Réponse

    Thanks for this - yes, the final little detail about getting the yellow ribbon in is tricky indeed, I feared I’d bend it too many times and end up breaking it. Also, as there is no way to know if it’s placed far enough in, a bit of guess work. But, 3 mins to re-assemble, and hit power - booted up like immediately, perfect. Cheers - Pat

    Patrick Sgro - Réponse

    Great thumbs up for very hi-res photos for this section. This thing was THE hardest in this guide. If you haven’t got courage to do this, just buy the one with bracket. Even if you have - zoom into the picture. It will save the day.

    If you have hard time putting the cable back into the ZIF connector, try gently pushing the cable down against the bracket while pushing it into the connector. Simply pushing the cable into the connector doesn’t seem to work well.

    Collapsed PLUG - Réponse

    I just did this step and I’m concerned I might have bent the little yellow cable or not seated it far enough into the connector. More will be revealed.

    My suggestion might be to re-insert the cable before sticking the hard drive back onto the bracket. It might provide more flexibility and a better angle at getting the sleep LED cable back in the ZIF connector.

    This is just for the sleep LED? and the IR sensor? right so if we don’t care about the LED for sleeping hard drive and never use the IR sensor then it doesn’t matter, right?

    Adam Hechler - Réponse

    Good guide, great, thanks! It simply works like a charm.

    I’d extend Adam’s suggestion: insert the LED cable into the connector before glueing the connector plate onto the holder. This way you can use both hands, find the correct angle and fiddle the little thingy into place. If you do it behind a magnifying glass it’s even easier.

    Grix - Réponse

    Confirmed, it’s much easier to put LED cable into ZIFF connector before gluing the last one. Spudger helps to direct cable properly.

    Valentyn -

    Thanks for this useful guide that enabled me to do this job myself. I found the last step was the trickiest one, so much so that even though I was careful I managed to break the ZIF connector as I was trying to put it back in after also having some difficulty figuring out how to disconnect it. Part of the problem was that I stuck the new cable to the base of the holder before I tried to plug the ZIFF connector back in and did not manage at first attempt to get it close enough to the white housing to be easily within reach of the ZIFF connector that I think is why it broke when I tried to put it back in. It was not a nice surprise but fortunately when I completed the reassembly the hard disk started working again with no problems that was my reason for changing the cable, so losing an LED light and some sleep (pun intended) was worthwhile.

    hundredmeterskoven - Réponse

    I got the Prohibitory symbol for the 2nd time. This time re-installing the OS did not work and I tried everything. Researched around the net and it was suggested to replace the hard drive cable and it worked even though the cable looked good, but there is a small chip and board on the cable. Maybe something shorting out…the chip?…the board?…etc. Top notch company and service, instructions are clear and easy to follow. Thank you I Fix It!!!.

    Sterling Wong - Réponse

    When replacing the cable, it is helpful to pre-form the bends before taking the protective cover off from the adhesive portion of the slim cable (that leads to the LED sleep light). Turn over to view place to pre-bend. Be gentle - hands only.

    Gary Renick - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

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Phillip Takahashi

Membre depuis le 08/22/11

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6 commentaires

Excelente guia todo muy bien detallado.

Joel Fuentes huchin - Réponse

Hi, My mac, I bought in late 2011 (december), doesn't work on internal harddrive( I replaced it to SSD, year agao), but when i use SATA cable externally, it works perfect. I get the circle and slash sign when I try to boot with internal drive cable, but SATA works fine. Do I need to replace my internal cable?

Raj - Réponse

that probably means the cable is done. Just replace it and find out. It worked out that way for myself. If its not the cable, well it was going to cost more to bring in to a repair shop anyway.

Joshua Decosta -

Having almost got to the stage when i was going buy a new macbook - I found this, and decided to give it a go, having had the death folder and my computer not responding to any of the so -called fixes and recoveries. Hey presto after 30 minutes of being an IT engineer, thanks to be the above guide, I am now up and running and not having to buy a new one - good saving and more confidence of how to fix my mac thanks to the clear directions and pics - superb

Pete M

Pete Markham - Réponse

Thanks very much for this precise and well described guide. Looked like my son’s MacBook HDD was dead until I found a lot of talk on the forum about the hard drive cable being a common fault. Took the chance of replacing the cable first and could not have done so without this guide. Pleased to say the hard drive was actually fine and having successfully replaced the cable he’s now up and running again. Thanks

Robert Ball - Réponse

Great guide. I was getting the folder with an interrogantion on startup. I suspected of the SSD, but a new one did not worked either. So I found here it could be this ribbon cable and, ... voilà. Mi daughter have to wait a little more for a newer computer.

cantaenayunas - Réponse

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