Introduction
Use this guide to completely replace the logic board.
Outils
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Remove the following ten screws:
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Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws
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Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.
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Remove the lower case.
Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !
Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?
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Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.
yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on
khull -
Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.
This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.
My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!
Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!
Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...
Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.
Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.
Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.
Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector
DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!
Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.
This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.
Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.
BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.
wassberg -
Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.
I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.
Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!
The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165
I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.
I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro 13in and did not disconnect the power from the battery. I upgraded from 4gb to 16gb and worked perfectly. Just make sure to power it down and be gentle. It was super easy and quick, and I feel a significant boost in performance. Cant wait to install my 1TB SSD Samsung 860 next!
Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.
u can use 16GB DDR3 @ 1600mhz. intel says 16 @ 1333, and apple 8.
apple will solder even the folders to the background for to sell you the “open” or “move to the trash” command. if the battery is not removable, its not a casuality…. u can be sure
Would draining the battery (by using the machine until it runs out of power) do the trick for this? Seems it would be less risky than potentially damaging the connector/cable during disconnection for example.
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Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore
The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).
The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.
One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.
Great guides. Thanks!
Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.
I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.
That's a good tip
Anrothan -
One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)
does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.
Très bonnes explications. Concernant le débranchement de la batterie, faute de “smudger”, on peut le faire tout doucement avec le bout des ongles (s’ils ne sont pas coupés trop à ras, LOL), et surtout ne pas tenter de le faire d’un coup: il faut y aller tiers de mm par tiers de mm. Le retrait des anciennes mémoires n’est pas facile non plus, car on a très peu de place pour manœuvrer, là encore il faut y aller petit à petit, avec les plus grandes précautions! La barrette située le plus profond doit être soulevée assez fortement dans sa partie libre pour pouvoir être extraite de son étroite cuvette et ce n’est pas simple. Le remontage est nettement plus simple que le démontage. Il faut surtout faire très attention à ne pas confondre les petites vis à épaulement avec celles qui n’en ont pas. Je conseille, avant de remettre le couvercle de fond du Mac, de faire un essai de redémarrage pendant une minute ou deux pour bien voir si tout est OK.
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Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?
I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?
I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.
Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…
This one is really delicate, as pointed out. Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn. I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped. Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.
For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:
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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:
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One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw
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Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws
I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big
Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one
It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,
Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:
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Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.
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Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.
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Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.
Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.
Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.
Same, any suggestion about its replacement?
Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!
In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...
To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
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Disconnect the following four cables:
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AirPort/Bluetooth cable
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Optical drive cable
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Hard drive cable
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Trackpad cable
On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.
Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.
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Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks
No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.
I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.
Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!
Gryyphyn -
Amazing this saved me!
You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in
Tunipguy -
Thanks! This saved me hours!
i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit
works great!
After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.
I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.
Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.
It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.
The tape trick was the only way it could go in for me.
PLEASE post the tape trick for reinsertion into the MAIN instructions for this repair. I managed to destroy the cable traces requiring me to replace the whole keyboard before I found the tape trick info. Please, please, please keep anyone else from &&^&^$^ up this way.
tape tip! genius! first go!
The most difficult part. It is hard to get it out and put it back. It seems there are a lot of suggests how to do it easier. I spent on this about a half an hour :( Pitty that I didn't see that suggestions before.
For me the most difficult part as well. Tape trick is great .
Foto’s of the tape trick to insert the keyboard ribbon into the ZIF socket: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5xSbqsMBbQzUqu...
This was super helpful! I started with a rolled up piece of tape, and that didn’t let me pull with enough force to get the cable inserted. Thank you!
20thme -
The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!
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If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.
This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.
I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.
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Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.
the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:
"Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."
Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.
Hans -
Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.
My display is not working after reassemble the mac.
Any reason?
I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.
I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.
when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.
Matt Did the internal display then turn on? Mine is still dark…
When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?
Any update on this issue?
what did you change to fix it?
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Remove the following nine screws:
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Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws
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Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws
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Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws
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Five 3.0 mm T6 screws
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Two 3.6 mm T6 screws
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Two 6.7 mm T6 screws
2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.
I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.
Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).
2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?
lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.
Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.
There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm
for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described
on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.
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Remove the following two screws:
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One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
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One 5.5 mm Phillips screw
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Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
Not necessary to remove the small screw holding the silver colored retaining clip on the data cable retainer. (pictured still attached in the guide) Cost me 45 minutes trying to get it back on which included looking for, and fishing it out of, the places where it tried to hide because it’s so ding dang small it was tough to reattach and seemed to have a guided navigation system sending it everywhere but where it was supposed to go. Additionally, the middle hole on the retainer is empty in this step for reassembly as that is where one of the long rear cover screws goes when you put the case back together.
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Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.
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Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.
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Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.
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Remove the logic board.
Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...
I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?
I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.
I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.
ej257lgt -
Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?
Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/
If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.
If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!
I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.
The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.
The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.
Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.
The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard
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De-route the microphone cable from its slot molded into the left speaker enclosure.
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Remove the three 8.4 mm #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
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Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.
Are there only 2 springs?
nop on the cpu are 3 springs. I am still looking for more info on the other heat black part. i did some digging it appears that works with 3mm pads. the thermal paste is ok but there is no contact like cooper. Have any one know here i can find more info on that part?
What if the heat sink doesn't match or go on the new one ???
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
85 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.
6 commentaires
Hello guys,
I have a question for you : if i need to change my macbook pro early 2011 logic board (the one with the core i5 2.3ghz) with a late 2011 logic board (core i5 2.8Ghz). will it work ? thanks a ton for any input on that matter !
Should be fine Guillaume, things to note are: The serial number will give the old info of the old main board. Also the CPU cooler my be different, on 1 I noticed the cooler has 2 fans on the 2.3Mhz it has 1. Assuming you have both cases in front of you, I don't see to much of an issue.
I would advise taking the memory out sooner then the last step, as while your trying to maneuver everything around it seems the sticks could get in one's way or even worse break off the retaining tabs for the memory.
i lol @ the spudger !
Hi !!!
I have a MacBook Pro 2011, I ran out of charge on an update (I thought the multi-plug was connected) after what happened I stayed in the limbo. I take it to a technician and manages to put it to work but what happens is that it works very slow "almost impossible". I was told that I should change the hard drive and the memory (you have a SSD 250 hard drive and 8GB C / U memories.) But it continues with the problem of slowness and it works only when the battery is completely lost and recharged And when I turn it off again it returns to slowness.
I have the same machine and I'd like to add an 820-3115 board to a 820-2936 machine. My board is completely toasted by a “fixing” company. Anyway, what problems will encounter to replace old 2936-b with new 820-3115? Please someone? I need to buy from eBay and I don't won't to waste my money for wrong board.
Does void the warranty?
jfondeur - Réponse
No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...
oakdragon12 - Réponse
How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?
gunes314 - Réponse
You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.
Marshall WahlstromHelgren -
Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?
Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Réponse
Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.
Seji the veggie -
What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!
Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.
pmhparis -
The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!
While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.
Dan -
I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.
John Adam Wickliffe - Réponse
Hey guys,
this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!
I posted some pictures on your facebook page..
renatumb - Réponse
Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.
Robert Wacker - Réponse
Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.
kschmesk - Réponse
Totally agree!! I used the #00 screwhead for 7 out of the 10, but for the remaining tricky ones I used the #0 screwhead and it helped me out. I was so worried I would strip the tiny screw, but this comment saved me!
Juliana Mak -
I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?
Alex - Réponse
The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch
. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard
I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one
brian whittle - Réponse
Hello MacWorld,
Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!
wer 10/5/15
tayseer999 - Réponse
I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.
ForumHermit - Réponse
Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?
taylornya - Réponse
iFixit sells a kit: MacBook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set
Darrell Johnson -
on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one
Maximilian Klotz - Réponse
I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.
gilded yak - Réponse
Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”
Jack - Réponse
I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…
Michael Wilkens -
I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.
otetz -
Same here… I could not notice hte difference. Anyone at iFix would like to comment?
LDS -
I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?
rodrigosady - Réponse
I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.
Michael Wilkens -
I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.
Stephen Smith - Réponse
A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help
Wilder Torres - Réponse
Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.
airshack - Réponse
when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.
this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.
Matt - Réponse
It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same
Luca Giancarli - Réponse
If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.
Raymond Ives -
The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).
Don Cely - Réponse
Two screw types:
______________________________
Shouldered Unshouldered
xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx
..xxxxx……..….…….x…….
…..x……..…...……….x…….
…..x…………....……..x…….
______________________________
El Crashitan - Réponse
If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.
Patrick Langvardt - Réponse
My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.
jeremyyoung - Réponse
I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)
Javier Campos Delgado - Réponse
WIll this card be good with MacBookPro 17 inch 2011
Zafar Ali - Réponse
I just followed this guide and it really helped me install a replacement cable and a new Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD in my aging MacBook Pro 13 A1278 MID 2012. It’s performing like a new machine now! The guide worked fine, but I’m curious why this HD cable costs €45 on Ifixit’s webshop, and only €13 on Amazon.de (I live in Europe)? The Amazon purchase also included two screwdrivers and a spudger.
Jeff Baker - Réponse
I found out that one way to reduce the chance to loose screws is to leave them in their holes of the lower case right after unscrewing them. In fact, you can put the lower case back in place with all but one screws in place. The only one that I ever needed to put apart was the long one at the top right in the picture (the one that goes close to the display data cable underneath the lower case). Hope this help others! and you stop wondering about shouldered versus not shouldered short (3.5mm) ones :-)
LDS - Réponse