Introduction
Grâce à ce tutoriel, remplacez seulement l'écran LCD à la place de l'écran complet.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
-
-
Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :
-
Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.
-
Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.
-
-
-
Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
-
-
-
À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
-
-
-
Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du caisson de basse/du haut-parleur droit pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.
-
-
-
Dégagez le câble de données de la caméra de la rainure dans le lecteur optique.
-
-
-
Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.
-
Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise.
-
Veillez à tirer le connecteur hors de sa prise et non vers le haut.
-
-
-
Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx T8 de 6,5 mm fixant chacune des deux fixations de l'écran au boîtier supérieur (4 vis au total).
-
-
-
-
Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.
-
Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.
-
Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, dévissez la vis Torx T8 de 6,5 mm de la fixation inférieure de l'écran.
-
-
-
Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T8 mm fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.
When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!
Save yourself some time and don't drop it!
-
-
-
Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.
-
Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.
-
-
-
Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que aucune fixation ni aucune nappe ne reste accrochée.
-
-
-
Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire, du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.
With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:
1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.
2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.
3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.
First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?
Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?
Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?
It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:
Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.
The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.
The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.
Jeff Kamis
All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).
The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!
Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.
If you have a glass cover that is severely cracked then the heating gun and suction cup procedure really doesn’t work. Suction cups won’t hold and the already broken glass doesn’t lift. Here’s what I did that made the job easier. Using 2 inch wide transparent packing tape I laid it along the perimeter of the display but not covering the rubber edge. Then I used a 1/4 inch wood carving tool and very carefully removed the glass and 2 sided tape around the metal border. Use as your guide picture 2 in this step that shows where the camera and cable is located. Where the camera is located in the top center the 2 sided tape isn’t located so you can easily lift the glass. The camera cable runs up the right side in a trough in the metal border so when lifting the tape and glass in this area just keep the sharp end flat and it is wide enough it won’t dip into the trough and damage the cable. The tape was very helpful because it kept the glass from splintering and going everywhere.
-
-
-
Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.
-
Soulevez et éloignez doucement et délicatement le coin de la vitre de l'ensemble écran.
-
-
-
Soulevez précautionneusement le coin de la vitre suffisamment pour pouvoir insérer une spatule (spudger) entre elle et l'ensemble écran.
-
Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive fixant la vitre à l'écran.
-
Soulevez la vitre de quelques centimètres au-dessus du coin supérieur droit, tout au long du bord supérieur et du bord droit de l'écran.
-
-
-
Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du côté droit de la vitre avant.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté droit de la vitre avant.
-
Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
-
Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit séparée de l'écran.
I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!
-
-
-
Avec votre pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord supérieur de la vitre.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier sur le bord supérieur de la vitre avant et tirez-la pour séparer la vitre de l'écran.
-
Progressez le long du bord supérieur de la vitre, en enlevant précautionneusement la colle avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule si nécessaire.
-
-
-
Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.
-
Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
-
-
-
Avec un pistolet à air chaud ou un sèche-cheveux, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant.
-
Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté gauche de la vitre avant.
-
Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.
-
Progressez le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.
-
-
-
Pour reconnecter la nappe de la caméra, enlevez d'abord le morceau de mousse autocollante sur la prise ZIF de la nappe avec la pointe d'une spatule.
-
Toujours avec la pointe de la spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue ZIF de la prise de la nappe de la caméra.
-
Insérez la nappe de la caméra dans sa prise sur la carte caméra et refermez le clapet de retenue ZIF avec la pointe de la spatule pour maintenir la nappe en place.
-
-
-
Faites glisser le cache charnière vers la droite de l'écran.
-
-
-
En commençant tout à droite, faites jouer le cache charnière tout le long de son axe pendant que vous l'ôtez de la charnière.
-
En progressant de droite à gauche, soulevez et dégagez soigneusement le cache charnière du bord inférieur de l'ensemble écran.
-
Ôtez le cache charnière du joint avant et mettez-le de côté.
Highly recommended to remove clutch cover BEFORE heating up glass, because cover is made of very thin plastic and it'll be deformed!
Basically, I'm removing everything from screen - clutch cover, wifi card, antenna, all plastic bits, and only then proceed with heating and glass removal.
-
-
-
Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran de son support de fixation à côté du coin inférieur gauche de l'écran.
-
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions en sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions en sens inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
77 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Merci à ces traducteurs :
100%
Ces traducteurs nous aident réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›
5 commentaires
All I can say is THANKS! I was able to replace my daughters display, the bottom aluminum panel and to remove the dents from the top aluminum panel. Without your guide, I doubt I ever could have done this. You saved me hundreds! Your spudger tool was worth its weight in gold....till I used it to break the glass front panel...sigh. Still, I'll use that hundreds of times from now on.
==Step 17==
It is extremely critical that when attaching the suction cup to FIRST LIFT THE LEVER ABOUT HALF WAY before attaching to the glass in order to only apply about half the suction the tool is capable of applying!! Lift the lever half way. Set into position on glass. Lift the rest of the way to apply about half of the suction cup's potential suction. Failure to do this WILL result in circular break around the suction cup!
This was extremely helpful. I am a junior in high school who was issued a Mac for class. I am one of those anti-Apple people, so I get easily frustrated with them and tend to beat them up a bit. Consequently, I broke it. Being low on funds, I couldn't afford the repair costs, let alone had the nerve to own up to my actions and tell the teacher about it. SO....after staying up an extra couple hours researching the problem, I discovered this and decided to give it a try. Despite already being somewhat tech savvy, I found this resource very helpful, even more so after re-reading it and watching a couple how-to videos. The problem was fixed in no time.
Lets just say, thanks to this site, the school never found out that I broke the laptop. :)
GREAT GUIDE! Thanks!
I had a laser targeted infrared thermometer for another project ($25 at local hardware store) and found the screen cover adhesive softened nicely at top and sides at 140-145F. I used a hairdryer on high setting.
I found with the top edge and both side edges lifted free of the adhesive in earlier stages, the bottom edge lifted easily at 100-105F. (I had package taped the screen as it had cracks, being sure the tape laid flat so sunction would form in the early steps.
NOTE THE MAXIMUM SPECiIFIED NONOPERATING TEMPERATURE IS LISTED BY APPLE AT 113F for the 2010 MBP 13”. Separating the bottom and top cases allows the keyboard and all the other goodies in the lower case to rest comfortably away from the heat.
One or two very thin flexible pry tools like iSesame (inexpensive online) worked well once the upper corner was lifted with a suction cup
This guide is the same of MacBook Pro 13 unibody 2012?
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Réponse
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Réponse
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Réponse
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Réponse