Introduction
Remplacer un ventilateur défectueux est assez simple et évitera à votre ordinateur de surchauffer.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Avec vos doigts, écartez les deux clips de verrouillage de la batterie puis retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur.
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Dévissez les trois vis cruciformes identiques du capot de protection RAM.
Tip for new players - print this guide, then use Sello tape to tape the screws from each step on the picture. Keeps them all organised and easy to know which screws belong to which step when putting it all back together
Thanks a lot for this great advice. I followed it, and it turned out to be very useful and practical.
In regard to the incredible amount of TINY screws, get an Ice Cube Tray or something with AT LEAST 8 compartments, then, when taking out the screws, mark EACH compartment with the step # and how many screws that were taken out, and used for THAT STEP (such as Step # 3 = 4 of 4 screws. Label EACH compartment, and keep them in line of each step. When it comes time to put everything back together, just reverse your Ice Cube Tray, and follow the Steps in Reverse!
As far as marking each compartment, try these POST IT PENS!!!
http://www.staples.com/Post-it-Flag-Ball...
GOOD LUCK! Take your time, it's not as difficult as it seems!
JerseyJeepGurl
An ice cube tray is definitely the way to go!
This guide helped me to remove the keyboard on my MBP, but it doesn't take you further to take the keyboard apart. If you REALLY want to look inside the keyboard, you'll need to remove additional phillips screws (10), and carefully remove the inner plastic/clear layers inside the keyboard.
I did this to look for physical damage inside the keyboard and noticed that the black plastic? sheet was torn on my letter 'v', which was one of the keys not working. I did not see any physical sign anywhere else on the keyboard, though.
So, after pulling the defective keyboard away and installing the new one purchased from iFixit, putting everything back together is not too difficult, just reverse.
One thing, though: Check and double-check before you tighten the case screws to make sure your keyboard backlight is working. I noticed I had forgotten to plug it in, luckily for me before I put all the screws on the case.
To avoid losing any screws, print this guide and use clear tape to tape the screws next to the step. Use double-tape to avoid tearing or one of the tiny screws from falling out.
Good luck!
Thanks iFixit for helping me replace my MBP's keyboard!
Worked perfect on my 4,1 mbp. Took ~15 min.
I don't see a boost in speed... or is just me?
I used 500 GB 7200 RPM Seagate SATA Hard Drive model ST9500420AS.
(if has a G letter at the end (ASG) is the one with built in shock protection who conflict sometimes with the mac own G protection).
This guide was awesome. I used JerseyJeepGurl's suggestion and used an egg carton, numbering each cavity as a step in the guide. So for a step that had me remove 3 different kinds of screws, I had a cavity for each, numbered: 1a, 1b, 1c and wrote a,b,c on the guide itself next to each bullet point in the step. It was awesome.
I guess that before starting I overlooked what a T6 torx actually was. I started this process at 8pm and realized right away that I did not have a set that small and of course all stores were closing. Lowes actually had an awesome fine torx driver set for only 7 bucks!
So that you fixit.
Citation de tech4eleven :
This guide was awesome. I used JerseyJeepGurl's suggestion and used an egg carton, numbering each cavity as a step in the guide. So for a step that had me remove 3 different kinds of screws, I had a cavity for each, numbered: 1a, 1b, 1c and wrote a,b,c on the guide itself next to each bullet point in the step. It was awesome.
I guess that before starting I overlooked what a T6 torx actually was. I started this process at 8pm and realized right away that I did not have a set that small and of course all stores were closing. Lowes actually had an awesome fine torx driver set for only 7 bucks!
So that you fixit.
Thank you everybody for "thanking me" on the compartment advice! Also, just about ANY Auto parts store will have a set of Torx Screw drivers, in a handy little set, that is all together. Good luck everybody,,remember,TAKE YOUR TIME, BREATH, AND DON'T GET FRUSTRATED!!! (STEALING ADVICE FROM PEARL JAM,,BREATH,JUST BREATH),,,,AND YOU'LL BE ABLE TO DO IT YOURSELF!
JJG
Citation de JerseyJeepGurl :
In regard to the incredible amount of TINY screws, get an Ice Cube Tray or something with AT LEAST 8 compartments, then, when taking out the screws, mark EACH compartment with the step # and how many screws that were taken out, and used for THAT STEP (such as Step # 3 = 4 of 4 screws. Label EACH compartment, and keep them in line of each step. When it comes time to put everything back together, just reverse your Ice Cube Tray, and follow the Steps in Reverse!
As far as marking each compartment, try these POST IT PENS!!!
http://www.staples.com/Post-it-Flag-Ball...
GOOD LUCK! Take your time, it's not as difficult as it seems!
JerseyJeepGurl
Citation de Michael Fredrickson :
I get a piece of "corrugated" cardboard and draw an outline of the laptop and all the "compartments" that are accessed. When you take a screw out simply punch it threw top layer of the cardboard exactly where it goes. Multiple compartments - just draw another diagram on the cardboard. Voila!
I just finished replacing my hard drive following these instructions and they were perfect. The only minor complication involved the ribbon cable connecting to the sleep light and IR sensor connectors. The entire cable was tightly glued to the hard drive. But I got it loose with 10 minutes of gentle prying with a spudger.
To keep track of the screws I just sketched an outline of the bottom panel, taped the screws in the right places and numbered them with the step numbers.
I just used that Glad Press' N Seal. I just cut a 4 in piece, cut slits in it to about half way, Put the screws on there, and fold the pieces over the screws. You can number them, i just kept track of them. Also, you might not need that much, i just cut that much just to be safe.
I use magnet
I use the magnet that close the refigerator door.
The screws are put on the magnet, so it didnot fall from the table.
i am french so sorry for my english
Madoc -
Just another idea for a container for all the little screws: pillbox. I got one for about $1.00 at the store with 14 compartments.
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Dévissez les deux vis cruciformes de 2,8 mm dans le compartiment de la batterie à côté du loquet.
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Dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,2 mm sur le côté des ports de l'ordinateur.
"port side of the computer" should read "starboard side". It's on the right-hand side when the computer is positioned normally in front of you.
Port side as in I/O port side, as in the side that has the FireWire and ethernet ports. This is a MacBook, not a sailboat ;)
Maybe I'm too used to running flight simulators on my Macs. But to us sailors or pilots, it would perhaps be clearer if the instructions mentioned "I/O port side" as Andrew did above.
Honestly, it never crossed my mind that 'port' refered to in/out…
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Faites encore pivoter le MacBook de 90° et dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,2 mm sur le côté de l'ordinateur.
In my machine the screw closest to the power connector had a slightly thicker head, and would not sit flush, upon reassembly, unless it was returned to the same hole.
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Soulevez l'arrière du boîtier et faites passer vos doigts le long des côtés en détachant le boîtier au fur et à mesure. Après avoir détaché les côtés, vous devrez peut-être remuer le boîtier de haut en bas pour en détacher l'avant (il y a des clips en plastique cachés et il faut les déverrouiller).
I had already done this once and now have a larger SSD to put in and cannot get past this step as the back just will not pop off. In fact- the front comes off fine but the back, where you cannot get the spudger, is "glued" or wedged solid. I suspect that the rear screw tabs have jammed. :(
I would not rock the case up and back. There are 4 plastic connectors that need to come loose, start on the left side with a spudger about a quarter of the distance from the edge and pop them up from left to right, one by one.
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Déconnectez la nappe du pavé tactile et du clavier de la carte mère et décollez la bande adhésive si nécessaire.
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Ôtez le boîtier supérieur.
Kudos for this fantastic walk-through of replacing the hard drive. I just swapped in a new SSD and it was a piece of cake!
On Step 10, I tried just propping up the keyboard and leaving it connected to the logic board. It worked for a while but eventually the ribbon popped off. Luckily it wasn't damaged and it's super easy to replace.
Same happened to me. No damage here either. :-)
Since there is the ONE cable going from the top keyboard/touchpad assembly to the motherboard, you need to be careful lifting it up and removing it.
Start at the front of the laptop, using a spudger to widen the gap so you can see inside where the ribbon cable attaches.
When re-assembling, use a couple of spudgers to prop up the keyboard/touchpad assembly and hold it in place. Re-connect the cable, then starting from the rear, lower the assembly into place.
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Déconnectez la nappe du ventilateur droit de la carte mère en plaçant une spatule sous la nappe puis soulevez.
Hi. Everything was going perfect,until I had tried to reconnect the fan cable to the logic board, having removed and cleaned the right fan. I realised that I had removed the entire fan cable adaptor from the board itself. I am now left with no way of connecting it back onto the logic board. I tried to buy a conductor adhesive in Maplans, but no joy. It's impossible to solder, as the spots are so tiny.
Can anyone please advise me on what to do next?
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Soulevez le ventilateur droit. En même temps, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive le fixant au dissipateur de chaleur.
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Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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3 commentaires
The difficulty level on this really should be changed to moderate like the keyboard replacement one. Infact, this is actually easier to do than the keyboard portion since you don't need to mess with much else after removing the keyboard other than R&I the fan.... just a thought since i just did both fans and the keyboard at once.
anyway
nice writeup. very straight forward. thanks!!!
This guide was INCREDIBLY helpful! I walked through the R&I in under a half hour, and felt ENTIRELY confident at EVERY step of the (lengthy) procedure. MANY THANKS for publishing such a clear guide, and for making all these impossible to get parts available, since Apple no longer supports the A1211 Mac Book Pro, even off-warranty.
I just replaced the right and left fans in my A1211 Macbook Pro, went pretty well, my only issue was on the connection of the right fan cable to the logic board. When I connected it, it seemed to come off too easily, but I could not get a better fit. Now that I am finished and turned on the computer, I am worried that the fan is not spinning. Does anyone know if I can safely open up the computer again and then turn on the computer safely so that I can view if the fan is moving? Or, is there another way to check if the fan is moving? When I put my ear up to the left fan, I can hear the slight sound of the spinning, but on the left side, I can't hear anything.
Years ago, I had to return/replace this type of a battery several times because of erratic behavior in the laptop. Suddenly I had one that lasted for 5 years before not taking any charge anymore. So, I'm going to order a new one hopefully without having to restart the return charade BECAUSE:
I observed that the battery's CONTACTs are unreliably INTERMITTENT. So far, it helped for a while moving it in and out in order to chafe the contacts' surfaces against each other.
moise - Réponse