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MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement, Battery: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

    Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

    rpbetancourt - Réponse

    If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

    Adam - Réponse

    Citation de Adam :

    If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

    Thank you very much!

    Evgeniy - Réponse

    When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.

    mark93 - Réponse

    Citation de rpbetancourt :

    Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

    I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.

    Tarn Alcock - Réponse

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement, Memory Door: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

    • Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 3, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement, Upper Case: étape 4, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

    Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.

    dalphotography - Réponse

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 5, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

    A T6 worked but was too small. A T7 was better.

    nrpardee - Réponse

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 6, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

    Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

    Scott Rose - Réponse

    Been there, done that!
    I honestly don't remember how did I ultimately succeeded in getting that %#*@ screw back from the hole...

    maxime.abbey -

    by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM

    Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

    To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.

    rpbetancourt - Réponse

    Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!

    brendantully1 - Réponse

    If you still have the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the computer plug it in to the plug and screw it tight, that way you will not put one of the screws into the holes.

    netdude21 - Réponse

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 8, image 1 de 1
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

    • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.

    • Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.

    there are 2 push buttons inside the harddrive bay which release the front of the upper case.

    mforgie - Réponse

    this is an annoyingly difficult step. it is VERY hard to get the front part off without bending the unit improperly. Would be great to know where the two "push buttons" are.

    lessig - Réponse

    On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

    khank - Réponse

    Citation de khank :

    On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

    I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?

    khank - Réponse

    I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.

    schemedream - Réponse

    That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"

    just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees

    Hofmann78rus - Réponse

    [I d just say carefule on the prising open - these are fragile screw tab fixings joined to the uppercase. - Patience and gentle pressure and all works fine .

    daithid - Réponse

    Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

    Archhawk - Réponse

    the two push pins are in the battery area behind the front of the open button

    mykeylynx - Réponse

    Citation de Archhawk :

    Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

    I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=40...

    Mario da Silva - Réponse

    I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.

    Joshua May - Réponse

    There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.

    cheongi - Réponse

    The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.

    Hilal Malawi - Réponse

    After reading all the step 9 comments I was prepared for it to be very difficult. The two bendable tabs on the left front of the case were no bigger than 1/4 inch wide each and caused no trouble taking it off or putting it back on. Lifting the cover off happened before I knew it. I was carefully lifting the cover from side to side and 'poof' it was off and the yellow ribbon attaching between the case and the keyboard was so old and brittle it parted ways without my permission so that took care of step 10 right there but no problem.

    Being prepared, reading the guide, printing the guide, taping each screw to the right place on the guide made it all easy. I'm amazed it went so smooth on the first run-through. Thanks iFixit!

    Sally - Réponse

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 10, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

    • Remove the upper case.

    not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

    -urdus.

    urdus - Réponse

    I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.

    Joshua May -

    Citation de urdus :

    not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

    -urdus.

    Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).

    rpbetancourt - Réponse

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement, Hard Drive: étape 11, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the orange hard drive ribbon cable from the logic board.

    you dont need to do this. disconnect the sleeplight and IR sensor connectors instead. Just lift the harddrive cable where it is glued. It can still be connected to the logicboard. Dont lift the harddrive too much when disconnecting it.

    urdus - Réponse

    I fully agree with urdus. Step 11 is un-needed when replacing the harddrive.

    sanjaygovindjee - Réponse

    Citation de urdus :

    you dont need to do this. disconnect the sleeplight and IR sensor connectors instead. Just lift the harddrive cable where it is glued. It can still be connected to the logicboard. Dont lift the harddrive too much when disconnecting it.

    philip Aronson - Réponse

    Yikes! I did Step 11 and now I have loose ribbon cable. How do I attach it back? Do I have to solder it?

    bruce vivero - Réponse

    I agree with Urdus... less one step if you're careful enough...

    Mario da Silva - Réponse

    I also removed this ribbon, (while actually trying to clean my fan, it was ignorantly done...) anyways, now my hard drive is not recognized when I startup... How do I reconnect this?? Please help...

    Chase - Réponse

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 12, image 1 de 1
    • Use a spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive securing the sleep light and IR sensor connectors to the top of the hard drive.

    This was a pain in the !!* for me. It was really stuck on the original drive but good. In finally getting it off, the connector came out of the bluetooth. I had to CAREFULLY slide the ribbon connector back into the bluetooth card. Not easy to do with my big fat fingers.

    Archhawk - Réponse

    I didn't have a budger/spudger, so I cut the brush side off a used plastic toothbrush and used the handle after sharpening the cutoff end into a wedge... works great!

    Mario da Silva - Réponse

    I use UN-DU scrapbookers adhesive remover <http://un-du.com/>. (It is hexane.) It temporarily dissolves adhesive bond, then evaporates and the adhesive is sticky again. Much less risky than a spudger.

    cheongi -

    Agreed! Two hugely tricky steps here. The larger of the two components really did NOT want to come away from the hard drive case (I was afraid of tearing the ribbon cable), AND I accidentally pulled the Bluetooth ribbon out from the case. Heck of a job to replace it! Anyone know where I can get the opaque plastic sheath for the Bluetooth board?

    dave - Réponse

    The whole replacement was easy "Stevie Wonder" could of done this! Make sure that the you are careful with the IR sensor and sleep light and it should be noted the the screw to remove HDD seating bracket is directly under a few wires.

    nshardyjr - Réponse

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 13, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the two silver Phillips screws securing the hard drive retaining bracket to the lower case.

    • In some machines these screws may have T6 Torx heads.

    in my version, the screws are TORX

    lupuss - Réponse

    these were Torx T-6 in my case

    Dan - Réponse

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 14, image 1 de 1
    • Slide the Bluetooth board out of its slot next to the hard drive. The Bluetooth board is still connected to the orange hard drive cable, so don't try to remove it entirely from the computer.

    no Bluetooth board here

    lupuss - Réponse

    torx and no bluetooth board- late 2007 mbp.

    also, orange cable seems attached all the way across and drive wont come up on left side.

    Nick - Réponse

    Torx and no bluetooth card in MBP from March 2008.

    Nicolai Fabritius - Réponse

    I couldn't figure out how to 'slide' the Bluetooth board out, so I just left it in place and pulled the hard drive out.

    Hilal Malawi - Réponse

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 15, image 1 de 1
    • Lift the hard drive up with one hand and use your other hand to remove the retaining bracket from the side of the hard drive.

    NOTE TO ORIGINAL MBP CORE DUO OWNERS: This picture makes it look like the retaining bracket comes off when you lift out the hard drive at this point, but it does NOT. The bracket is attached to the hard drive via 2 Torx screw (step 17), which must first be removed.

    Curtis Wayne - Réponse

    When reinserting the hard drive careful not to snag the bluetooth board cable on the bottom right side of the hard drive.

    milo - Réponse

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Hard Drive Replacement: étape 16, image 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the orange hard drive cable.

    • After installing the new hard drive, make sure the vent hole (on top) is not covered by the orange ribbon cable.

    in my version the left side rubber bumpers are locked in the casing of the MBP and you have to slide out the unit to the right

    lupuss - Réponse

    Citation de lupuss :

    in my version the left side rubber bumpers are locked in the casing of the MBP and you have to slide out the unit to the right

    As were mine.

    cgollner - Réponse

    My new Hitachi drive has the "do not cover" hole right under the place where the IR and sleep sensors need to be attached. The stock drive had the hole on the other end of the hard drive. I just made sure the adhesive didn't seal off the hole, and I think it should be alright. Otherwise, install was easy and these directions were outstanding. Thanks.

    kkir - Réponse

    I had the same problem with my Western Digital Scorpio 2.5in 500GB SATA 16MB. Otherwise, the instructions were awesome. I had to have the tape "just" left of the breather hole and the ribbon cable wasn't flush, but I don't think it's too big a deal. Drive was recognized by the laptop immediately and good old Time Machine restore is on its way.

    Arthur Lee -

    Thanks, I managed to put a new 320 GB drive in. Next I partitioned the drive for MAC OS 10.4 and Windows with Disk Utility. Selected Volume Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for Mac OS 10.4 and MS-DOS File System for Windows. Next I restored Mac OS 10.4 with Carbon Copy from the old 100 GB drive, BUT how to restore Windows?@#$%^&* Carbon Copy doesn't do that.....??

    Barbara - Réponse

    Citation de Barbara :

    Thanks, I managed to put a new 320 GB drive in. Next I partitioned the drive for MAC OS 10.4 and Windows with Disk Utility. Selected Volume Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for Mac OS 10.4 and MS-DOS File System for Windows. Next I restored Mac OS 10.4 with Carbon Copy from the old 100 GB drive, BUT how to restore Windows?@#$%^&* Carbon Copy doesn't do that.....??

    My new SATA 500GB Hitachi was Initialised and Partitoned with Disk Utility when inside an external USB box ($20.00), and then all the contents of the 80GB was CCC'd over. When the new drive was switched over and tested before reassembly, everything came up identical to the original HD. (but I don't use Windows)! Kudos to CCC, and this site for clear instructions! Thanks, Guys/Gals.

    Mario da Silva - Réponse

    On my MBP, the orange cable was glued for it's length on the top of the original drive. Rather than try to peal it off, I removed the sticker underneath which was easier as the orange cable came with it. It also made putting it back easier.

    Stephen Spicer - Réponse

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

3 autres ont terminé cette réparation.

iRobot

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Un commentaire

I love everyone's different approaches. I used a piece of paper with written descriptions of screw locations. I put a strip of double-sided tape next to each description and stuck the screws to them. The paper got moved all over my office before I finished the project, and the screws stayed in place.

modulus204 - Réponse

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