Introduction

En remplaçant votre ensemble écran cassé, vous aurez en neuf l'écran LCD, la vitre avant, la coque de l'écran, la caméra iSight et les antennes AirPort.

Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
  • Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm (14,1 mm).

    • Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Réponse

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

xtophr -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Réponse

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Réponse

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Réponse

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Réponse

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Réponse

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Réponse

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Réponse

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Réponse

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Réponse

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Réponse

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Réponse

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Réponse

Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

If so, what is the best way to do this?

Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

Sibyl Smith - Réponse

I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

Pete Banks - Réponse

En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur au niveau de la fente pour le libérer des deux clips qui le fixent au boîtier supérieur.
  • En vous servant des deux mains, soulevez le boîtier inférieur au niveau de la fente pour le libérer des deux clips qui le fixent au boîtier supérieur.

  • Retirez le boîtier inférieur et mettez-le de côté.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Réponse

What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

michael - Réponse

16 GB is the max

Bradon Kelley -

  • Retirez les deux vis Y1 Tri-Wing par lesquelles la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.

  • Remarque : pour certaines réparations (disque dur, par exemple), le retrait de la batterie n'est pas indispensable, mais permet d'éviter un court-circuit accidentel sur les équipements électroniques de la carte mère. Si vous ne retirez pas la batterie, faites attention, car les composants de la carte mère peuvent être sous tension.

  • Il n'est pas indispensable de retirer la batterie en suivant les étapes 3 à 6 pour remplacer le disque dur. Il est cependant recommandé de retirer toutes les sources d'alimentation des éléments électroniques avant de travailler sur ces derniers.

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels - Réponse

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave - Réponse

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe - Réponse

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark -

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell - Réponse

What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

oboewan42 - Réponse

A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

akronymus - Réponse

It says "Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard." This is obviously a boilerplate instruction that is not appropriate for a repair guide.

Well, DO you have to remove the battery? IS this one of those repairs where it's "not necessary but prevents accidental shorting"?

Obviously, this instruction is boilerplate text that accompanies almost all the repair guides-- but there shouldn't be boilerplate text there, since this is a specific guide for replacing the Magsafe DC-in jack and not the harddrive.

skat1140 - Réponse

  • Avec le bout du doigt, décollez avec soin l'angle de l'étiquette d'avertissement pour accéder à une vis Tri-Wing cachée.

  • Retirez la dernière vis Y1 Tri-Wing par laquelle la batterie est fixée au boîtier supérieur.

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname - Réponse

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer -

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke - Réponse

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton -

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi -

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton - Réponse

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie - Réponse

One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

James -

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie - Réponse

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

Tao - Réponse

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao - Réponse

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller - Réponse

I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?

erinandjoy - Réponse

new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

aozoren - Réponse

Is this a battery from iFixit?

Scott Dingle -

Is all of this necessary if I am just needing to put a new top to my old bottom?

sherry williams - Réponse

  • Soulevez la batterie en tirant sur la languette d'extraction et dégagez-la du boîtier supérieur.

  • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement la batterie pour le moment.

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  • Inclinez la batterie vers l'arrière suffisamment pour accéder au connecteur du câble de la batterie.

  • Débranchez le câble de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère et retirez la batterie du boîtier supérieur.

  • Retirez ensuite le connecteur du câble de la batterie au centre de la carte mère.

I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

cmalec722 - Réponse

Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

johnsawyercjs -

The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

skat1140 - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez délicatement la nappe Airport/Bluetooth pour la débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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  • Tirez le connecteur de la nappe de la caméra tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère, vers l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

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  • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, débranchez les trois connecteurs d'antenne de la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.

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  • Dégagez les trois câbles d'antenne de leur canal sur le boîtier AirPort/Bluetooth.

  • Dégagez la nappe de la caméra de son canal sur le boîtier AirPort/Bluetooth.

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  • Dévissez les deux vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier AirPort/Bluetooth au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 3,8 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm

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  • Ôtez l'ensemble AirPort/Bluetooth du boîtier supérieur en évitant que les câbles ne restent accrochés.

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  • Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm fixant le support du câble antenne/caméra au boîtier supérieur.

  • Ôtez le support du câble antenne/caméra du boîtier supérieur.

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  • Dévissez deux des trois vis Torx T6 de 6 mm fixant le côté droit de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

  • Nous vous demandons intentionnellement de laisser une des vis fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur, car cela facilite les étapes suivantes.

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  • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et faites-la pivoter vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

  • Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran vers l'arrière pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Ne tirez pas le câble de données de l'écran vers le haut, car la prise est très fragile. Tirez sur la câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

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  • Dévissez la vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm fixant le support du câble de données de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

  • Ôtez le support du câble de données de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

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  • Dévissez deux des trois vis Torx T6 de 6 mm fixant le côté gauche de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

  • Nous vous demandons intentionnellement de laisser une des vis fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur, car cela facilite les étapes suivantes.

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  • Ouvrez votre MacBook Pro de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.

  • Posez votre MacBook Pro ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.

  • Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur de la main gauche, dévissez la vis Torx T6 restante de la fixation supérieure de l'écran.

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  • Veillez à maintenir l'écran et le boîtier supérieur avec votre main gauche. Si vous les lâchez, vous risquez de faire tomber l'écran ou le boîtier inférieur et donc de les abîmer.

  • Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T6 fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

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  • Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.

  • Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

  • Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que aucune fixation ni aucune nappe ne reste accrochée.

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Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

31 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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I am trying to put the display back together but I realised that the new display from ifix it has 3 cables to conect when only two spaces are available please advice ?

prpinheirojfp - Réponse

Are you talking about the antenna wires? The longest two go in the same track.

ziggurism -

The video cable in my MacBook Pro is a bit frayed. This was caused by the hinges being loose or missing screws. I replaced/tightened all the screws, but because of the fraying, the video signal is degraded. It flickers, sometimes loses some colors, or loses half its pixels.

It's finicky. If I put the bottom chassis on an close up the MacBook Pro, the video cable gets pinched enough to ensure the video degradation. However if I keep the bottom off, and keep the video cable positioned just so, not so crowded, then the video signal is fine. However the machine is not much of a laptop if you have to use it with the bottom off, without moving it.

I can get a spare video cable from a junker, but I don't have the heat lamp and suction cups, and anyway am not sure I want to attempt to dissamble the display assembly. Are there any things I can do to improve the functioning of the video cable in place, without replacing it?

I did try wrapping the frayed cable in Sugru. It did not resolve the issue.

ziggurism - Réponse

Am I able to use the display from my mid-2009 on my 2010?

PopeMike - Réponse

Smooth and simple. Much appreciated.

taboo2000 - Réponse

So I just tried to replace my high-res matte finish display with a glossy standard-res display. The install went fine but the machine wouldn’t boot. I diconnected the LVDS cable on the glossy display from the board and found that there were two contacts missing from the connector. So I contacted the vendor for a return and decided while I was waiting for a replacement, to put my matte display back in. When I did, I now have no internal video at all but do have output from the mini display port. All cables are properly seated and I even cleaned the LVDS connector on the old display and it’s accompanying socket on the board with isopropyl alcohol and compressed air. Was static safe the whole time. Any thoughts on what might have gone wrong would be highly appreciated. Not a newbie doing these types of repairs either.

Steven Wymor - Réponse

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